Need to know your intended usage - occasional, ranch, professional, firewood, etc.
You can't go wrong with a Stihl MS261
l told my pap and mam I was going to be a mountain man; acted like they was gut-shot. Make your life go here. Here's where the peoples is. Mother Gue, I says, the Rocky Mountains is the marrow of the world, and by God, I was right. - Del Gue
What size, what are you cutting, how many times per year? Hard to go wrong with Stihl pro or mid grade. Same with husky. If I was looking at a slightly cheaper saw I would give echo serious consideration, as I have heard good things. All my saws are now 'old', and my Stihl experience in saws is from brief use of others.
Stihl or Husqvarna, whichever is sold and serviced locally.
donsm70
Life Member...Safari Club International Life Member...Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation Life Member...Keystone Country Elk Alliance Life Member...National Rifle Association
The guys that fix saws will tell you that bad gas causes the most reason for saws in shop. Folks let their saws set all winter with gas that goes bad. Stabil works but no gas left in the tank is for sure.
Stihl saw. Put Stabil in it every time you expect to put it up for a few months. Have it serviced by your dealer every few years. Either learn to sharpen the chain or have a new chain installed when it gets dull. My Stihl has been starting and running reliably for 25 years.
RS
P.S. I always use premium gas and Stihl brand oil in the gas and on the chain.
Unless you can service it yourself buy from a local shop. Check with the locals as far as which shop to use then see what they recommend.
ECHO has been mentioned a few times. I have no idea what they're like now but I've got a 550EVL I bought in '85. Just bought a new bar,sprocket,and a couple chains. Can't even imagine how many hours it's got on it.
Well, I see we're barely even 10 posts in, and someone has already recommended a $600-$700 pro saw (Stihl ms261).....
Ten inches isn't much, and you could easily get by with a Stihl ms170, or even a Home Depot Echo. My main suggestion is, if you're only going to use it occasionally, is spend the money on the "TruFuel" or whatever "canned" fuel is available locally. Yes, you're gonna cringe at spending $5 for a quart of the stuff, but it will be well worth it when you go to start the saw next year, and it actually starts, and you don't have urges to throw a $200-$300 tool into a pond, or waste half a day removing/cleaning/rebuilding/replacing a carb.
Stihl or Husqvarna, whichever is sold and serviced locally.
donsm70
Great advise right here.
"Allways speak the truth and you will never have to remember what you said before..." Sam Houston Texans, "We say Grace, We Say Mam, If You Don't Like it, We Don't Give a Damn!"
being a former logger and climber/topper. Either a Husky or Stihl, whichever has the best service locally. Get a pro model, not a homeowner special or anything that says "farm" on it. Smaller it is the easier on your back it will be. Just depends on how much chain you're trying to pull. If you expect any saw to be reliable learn routine/annual maintenance. Stabilize the fuel before you put it away, change the fuel filter every spring after filling with fresh fuel. Also maintain your air filter for optimum performance. The suggestion to run premium isn't a bad one either. Run actual bar and chain lube and not old motor oil. If it's cold, get winter weight. Flip your bar every time you remove the side cover to clean the oiler and port in the bar. there's more but that should get you started. Also, never run a dull chain. It's just hard on you and the saw. Touch it up often, or have extra chains with you to sharpen later.
Edited to add, they make premix with stabilizer in it.
Last edited by ykrvak; 10/21/17.
Because through judicious handloading and a bold sense of optimism, you can make anything into an .88 Magnum - once! 😁 - chesterpulley
I use ethanol free gas and run it out after each use with my saw. I run the gas out of my string trimmer at the end of mowing season and leave it in my leaf blower since I use it year around. I have a Husqvarna Rancher 455. I got it when I needed a saw that big but now I wouldn't mind a smaller saw.
Last edited by Dave_in_WV; 10/21/17.
The Karma bus always has an empty seat when it comes around.- High Brass
There's battle lines being drawn Nobody's right if everybody's wrong
Well, I see we're barely even 10 posts in, and someone has already recommended a $600-$700 pro saw (Stihl ms361).....
The OP stated he needed a good one. Those Stihl homeowner lines are not good saws from my experience. The one I had, if you actually used it would fall apart inside. Wire connections coming apart, on/off choke lever jamming up or falling apart. The Stihl pro model I have was a tad over $500 18 years ago and is bullet proof. It just starts and works.
I mentioned the Stihl MS261 before I knew your intended usage. The MS261 is a Pro Grade saw and IMO is a superb saw. I would not recommend the Stihl MS170, it's a home-owner/occasional use saw and cannot handle continued or hard use very well. I would recommend you go to your local Stihl dealer and discuss your needs. They will be able to point you in the right direction. As ltppowell mentioned above, the MS250 would be a good, medium+ duty choice, but I stand by my MS261 recommendation.
Many have mentioned that non-ethanol gas should be used, along with Stabil or Star Tron. While this is certainly good advice, you would be better served by draining the tank and running the saw dry before you put it up for storage. Additionally, Stihl MotoMix (their pre mixed fuel), while expensive, is an excellent choice for occasional use, since non-ethanol fuel is increasingly difficult to find.
Also, be sure to purchase the necessary safety equipment: a good pair of leather gloves, hearing protection, goggles, chainsaw chaps, etc. And always remember to treat your saw with the utmost respect. Stay focused and keep your chain sharp.
Last edited by High_Noon; 10/21/17.
l told my pap and mam I was going to be a mountain man; acted like they was gut-shot. Make your life go here. Here's where the peoples is. Mother Gue, I says, the Rocky Mountains is the marrow of the world, and by God, I was right. - Del Gue
B, If you are going to be doing any work on the ground, such as cutting up small trees and limbs after they are knocked down, bar length is more important than weight. A small saw with a 16" or 18" bar will have you leaning from the waist to run it and cause serious fatigue and back strain......especially for us geezers the other side of 60.
Get a Stihl or Jonny Red with at least a twenty inch bar and ask the dealer if they can swap the bar out for a 24", with a skip tooth chain so you do not lug the motor.
Mine is a 20" Stihl 362 (I think, without walking out to the shed and looking) nearly twenty years old. My next trip to the farm store WILL include the purchase of that 24 inch bar and skip tooth chain to match.
This is the fastest and easiest way I know to sharpen a chain. A machinist will have little trouble setting angles and proper grind.
A power grinder can eat a bit of metal and shorten the life of your saw chain. But that is not too critical for a fellow who only uses the saw a couple times a year. The pros use only files and a guide to prolong the life of their chain. But when I use a file, the saw begins to cut in circles.
A man has got to know his limitations.
My grinder came from Harbor Freight and cost me $35. It does what I need for around the farm.
If a fellow is not familiar with chain saw operations, and or has begun to lose upper body and arm strength, anti kickback chain and bars are available which will greatly increase the operators safety. I highly recommend both along with safety chaps. They will save a person's life and limbs.
People who choose to brew up their own storms bitch loudest about the rain.
Stihl and Husky make 3-4 different grades of saws--homeowner, landowner, in the case of Husky a semi-pro saw, and pro saws. Stay away from the homeowner saws. Most folks don't know this--including some of retailer sales folks. They'll tell you it's "professional saw" when it ain't.
The higher the grade of saw, the lighter, more powerful, more reliable, more expensive it is. 50cc to 60cc landowner saw from either brand is my recommendation. 16-20' bar. Find a local dealer that'll take care of you and stay away from the big box stores.
Go to Stihl and Husky's websites and peruse them. Like Leupold, both companies put a "floor price" on their dealers, so the the price is identical wherever you go. You might catch a sale somewhere. Otherwise dealers can entice you by throwing in extra goodies, 2-cycle oil, carrying case, etc.
Casey
Not being married to any particular political party sure makes it a lot easier to look at the world more objectively... Having said that, MAGA.
I have a Stihl 362 and a 271 both are pro grade (which is worth doing).
You’ll notice that there are 3 different chain thicknesses on saws, the smallest is just about worthless so stay away from those..
the second wide vs. the 3rd is a HUGE difference,
At the end of the day a 440 is the biggest saw and it’s for cutting the stump (huge [bleep])
the 362 is for cutting huge branches, and the trunk - but NOT limbs...
The 271 (MS271) is a lighter strong saw used to cut the limbs to leaves.
Okay,...so what chain thickness do you recommend for 10' diameter cuts and under?
3/8 x .050
The saw you buy will generally determine the chain size (don't confuse that with length--the bar length will determine the chain length). Most saws in the 50-60cc range use the 3/8 x .050 chain.
Casey
Not being married to any particular political party sure makes it a lot easier to look at the world more objectively... Having said that, MAGA.
Also......the bigger the engine, the heavier the powerhead. A heavy saw can be tough on us "older" guys backs. I personally like a 20" bar, long enough to take on most trees and provides reach without bending over as far when cutting on the ground or limbing. Depending on the weight of the powerhead, the correct length of bar can "balance" a saw and make it easier on the back.
The pro saws are great, but expensive. A specific recommendation would be a Husky Rancher 455 or the Stihl MS291. Both are 55cc landowner saws and are a good combo of size, weight, and power. Both will handle 20" bars. Both come in at under $500, hopefully even with tax in Kentucky.......
Casey
Not being married to any particular political party sure makes it a lot easier to look at the world more objectively... Having said that, MAGA.
Bristoe, if you go Stihl, the Pro saws have a better carb, electronics,air filters, an extra ring on the piston and a compression release. The 260 is what I have, it is now a MS261. With 3/8ths full chisel chain it will out cut the 361 with safety chain. it will take up to a 20 inch bar and be significantly lighter to use than the 360 or bigger saws.
I bought a used blue Dolmar (Makita) from Home Depots rental dept. It's been a great saw. More than I need, 64cc, but it's run like a raped ape for the last 5 or six years, and I ain't been kind to it. Put a 24" bar and chain on it this year to take down some bigger trees and it never slowed down.
It's sat for 10-15 months and still started inside of five pulls.
I'd like a smaller saw and would definitely by a Dolmar/Makita again.
“Life is life and fun is fun, but it's all so quiet when the goldfish die.”
If you want a little homeowner saw. I've got a Stihl MS180C that hasn't had a full tank of gas through it, I can get you cheap. It belonged to an older couple. It was literally brand new until I used it in a pinch this week. This saw uses .043 Picco chain.
Personally, I'd look for a lightweight 40cc-50cc professional or farm quality saw and run 16" or 18" bar with .325 pitch 50 gauge chain. The pro saws will almost always have the best power to weight ratios.
Never let the saw sit with mix made with E10 (ethanol) gasoline. Ethanol is hell on small engines.
Originally Posted by 16penny
If you put Taco Bell sauce in your ramen noodles it tastes just like poverty
They'll all work for cutting the occasional 10" tree. Getting an ms261 to do the kind of work you're talking about is like getting a Ferrari to commute to work, an F350 to haul your fishing boat, or putting a Swarovski on a squirrel gun. You can do it if you wish, but it ain't necessary unless you like to spend big bucks, wanna work part time as a lumberjack, or heat your home with wood only. I tinker with these, because I pick them up cheap and like to work on them, and they're easier to store than old motorcycles or cars. I've got about 10 more laying around in addition to these...
I've got no real brand loyalty. I own 6 Stihl Saws, one Dolmar (PS7900W), one Echo (330T), and a Solo 656. I've owned many more. A couple favorites were the Husqvarna 357XP and the 359. I use my Stihl MS200 the most, followed by the Dolmar and Solo in a tie for second.
The Husqvarna 550XP seems to own the top spot in the 50cc class. If anything happens to the Solo, it will be replaced by the 550XP.
That said, the Dolmar 5105 is one badass little saw. It and it's predecessor the 5100 were arguably the best of the 50cc saws before the Husky 550XP came along. The 5100's build quality, ergonomics, compactness, and power to weight ratio were all class leading.
Originally Posted by 16penny
If you put Taco Bell sauce in your ramen noodles it tastes just like poverty
You sure as hell don't need a pro saw for the little bit of light use you've described. I cut about 15 face cords of firewood every year and my Stihl MS290 Farm Boss is still going strong after 7 years of that. It's only a "firewood" rated saw by the manufacturer and would be more saw than you really need. Hell, it's more saw than I really need most of the time so I bought a smaller, lighter Husqvarna 445 3 years ago. I've used that one for the bulk of my firewood ever since and it's still running/cutting like a demon. It would more than serve your purpose and only cost about 300.00.
I have a couple of chainsaws but a Stihl 260 Pro is my "go to" saw. For occasional 10" work, I think you be very pleased.
donsm70
Life Member...Safari Club International Life Member...Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation Life Member...Keystone Country Elk Alliance Life Member...National Rifle Association
The 80cc class Dolmars are awesome saws and make a big grins! Cutting hard cordwood with a 20" bar feels like cheating. Most often I alternate between a 20" and a 24" bar depending on the situation. I've thought about getting it ported, but never made it happen.
Originally Posted by 16penny
If you put Taco Bell sauce in your ramen noodles it tastes just like poverty
I still run a Husky 272 from the 80's. That saw produces 5.2 hp at max rpm and it has so much compression that it takes a man to crank it. You can't set it on the ground and pull the cord. I cut timber with that saw for the first 3 years of it's life at 6 tractor trailer loads a day,6 days a week when it wasn't raining too bad to get out of the woods.
Basically,all the cheap home use stuff is about the same. Years ago the commercial Stihl and Husky were the only saws that would hold up to timber cutting. Both would last about as long but I always though the Husky has a lot les vibration and turned more rpm's. I know they were smoother and faster in fact because I ran both many times for more than 12 hours a day, 6 days a week.
I cut a lot of wood back in the 80's. I made 75 cents a ton, and it amounted to $1200.00 to $1500.00 a week,which was good money in the 80's.
If you are just cutting a little bit of firewood for the occasional fire in the fireplace,then any home use saw will work. I would look to spend around $400 and buy Husky or Stihl. If you burn wood exclusively for heat or want a saw that will last the next 20 years buy a comercial grade Husky made in Sweden if they still make them there and look to spend $700 to $1000.
Stihl or Husky,, every time you use your saw take the bar off and clean it throughly. Keep your chain sharp and mix with your type of oil. I have over 20 years on a pair of Husky's and the only shop time was to heli-coil exhaust bolts,, clean is the secret word!!
What is the best dealer support near you? I'll find out if you want. For the best all around one saw plan in stihl .....261 CM. Self tuning. Big thing. Self tuning. 241 261 362 Pro saws. Will last you 25 years. 170 180 Homeowner. 271 280 290 310 390 Ranch saws. Not bad but not pro. I got 18-20 pro Stihl's. 22-135 cc. The 261 CM is my Carry with me. No problems. Lightest for its power. Gonna work all day and night saw. 16" bar or a 24 if you need the stretch. .325 chain and keep it sharp. Dull chain is hard on you,the clutch and the bearings. Chain gets a little dull. Change it. Full chisel if the wood is clean. Will dull quicker Chipped chain cuts slower but will take dirt and abuse. A cheap $100 grinder will make sharpening easier. Don't get the $30 Harbor freight one. Any questions......ask. I'll try. If you arent getting it soon.......I'll be thru there and you can try all the different saws.
I can't believe some schitt posted here..... you stupid Alaskans are a sideshow of your own..... congratulations???
Ping pong balls for the win. Once you've wrestled everything else in life is easy. Dan Gable I keep my circle small, I’d rather have 4 quarters than 100 pennies.
Ping pong balls for the win. Once you've wrestled everything else in life is easy. Dan Gable I keep my circle small, I’d rather have 4 quarters than 100 pennies.
Kingston. ..You should sent that dolmar over to miller mod saw ...they really rip when he is done...
Oh hell. Don't get started on ported saws. Lol That's a rabbit hole you don't easily get out of. 150,026,261,034S,044/046 hybrid,064/066,075,084,090. Ported. With a 064/056 mag 2 top end and an 084/090 topend in the works. I was gonna take him ported and stock of a couple of sizes.
Ping pong balls for the win. Once you've wrestled everything else in life is easy. Dan Gable I keep my circle small, I’d rather have 4 quarters than 100 pennies.
For your use it would be tough to beat a $179 Stihl MS170 they are the best bang for the buck going in a smaller 16" saw. Some of the suggestions here are giving you a 416 Rigby for whitetail. That Rigby will sure as heck kill a deer but do you need to pay $12 per shot to get the job done.
The 170 won a best value award that never goes to Stihl saws because they aren't cheap. Your 10" limbs can even be cut in the tree because the saw is light enough. I run an MS291 as my larger saw but the 170 with a sharp chain will do almost everything the Farm Boss will. The 170 wouldn't be my choice to fell a 3' diameter oak but you could get it done with that saw if you had to. For keeping up with a property and cutting one house worth of firewood it is all the saw you need.
If a fellow is not familiar with chain saw operations, and or has begun to lose upper body and arm strength, anti kickback chain and bars are available which will greatly increase the operators safety.
This is where I am now, and I have trouble cranking mine because of the engine compression. It jerks the rope handle out of my hands. Does anybody still make one with a compression release? Used to be a bunch on the market, but I have failed to find one locally. miles
If a fellow is not familiar with chain saw operations, and or has begun to lose upper body and arm strength, anti kickback chain and bars are available which will greatly increase the operators safety.
This is where I am now, and I have trouble cranking mine because of the engine compression. It jerks the rope handle out of my hands. Does anybody still make one with a compression release? Used to be a bunch on the market, but I have failed to find one locally. miles
Stihl makes some of their smaller saw with a starting assist called ez start or something like that
I need a good one. Don't feel rained on if I don't respond to every post. Rest assured that I'm taking advice from everybody who voices information.
Hello Bristoe, I have a Husqvarna 372xp professional saw with a 20" bar and a Husqvarna 455 Rancher with a 16" bar, I run 3/8 .058 semi chisel chain with rim sprockets on both and to be honest the saw I reach for and prefer to use is the 455 as it is lighter and handier, I use these on Australian black box wood and Redgum.
I chose Husqvarna as I find there is less vibration going through my hands, and I like the compression assist.
I'll be cuttin' limbs and trees maximum 10" diameter.
Mostly,..I want a saw that ain't gonna turn to chit after one winter of storage.
I don't really care about price, within reason. But I want it to start up in the spring after settin' all winter.
You could buy pretty much anything (including Poulan) as long as you run real gas in it and use Stabil or Seafoam without fail. pretty good advice right here
Not sure why all the recommendations for a 20-24" bar to make up to 10" cuts. A 16" or 18" bar will be plenty enough, and will spin faster than a longer bar/chain.
Get something between 50-55cc with a 16-18" bar and skip chain. Keep that sucker sharp and watch it walk through wood like butter.
Landowner vs pro lines not sure that it matters much just buy a quality brand with good support from a local shop. Stabil/Seafoam for storage when not in use.
-Matt
"The proof of the whisky is in the drinking, the proof of the rifle is in the shooting."
Not sure why all the recommendations for a 20-24" bar to make up to 10" cuts. A 16" or 18" bar will be plenty enough, and will spin faster than a longer bar/chain.
While I cannot say from experience what to buy, I can say DO NOT buy a Poulan. From research that I have done so far, it seems like either a Husqvarna or Stihl is the way to go.
"...why, land is the only thing in the world worth working for, worth fighting for, worth dying for,... because it is the only thing that lasts."
Well, pretty much everything that needed to be said has been said. I'm most familiar with Stihl lineup, although I've run a fair amount of Huskies too. Was in the powerline R-O-W industry for about 14 years. To keep it as simple as possible, for what it sounds like you're planning to use it for, I'd probably just get an MS250 with an 18" bar and call it a day.
I too, like a 20" bar as someone said, to keep from bending so much. That's a little too long for the MS 250, but I ran one for years on an 026, which became the MS 261 after they changed their numbering system, and it weighs the same as the 250, but with more power and more $$. (Homeowner class to professional class.)
I bought a MS 361 after I wore out my 026, and while it is one badass saw, it's way overkill for what you're gonna do with it. Contrary to what some are saying, you don't need a 60 or 70 cc professional saw to cut up little trees like that, and the extra weight will kill your back after awhile.
Just a thought, but I've also got a badass climbing saw, the 020T, which became the MS 201T after the number system change. The sucker will flat out scream and has almost the same power as the MS 250, but it's as light as a feather too. My 75 year old dad loves to borrow it, but it's a top handle saw, which you don't want, because they're designed to balance with one hand use while in a tree, which greatly increases the likelihood of kickback. However, Stihl recently started putting a conventional tail handle on it and calling that model the MS 201C. It's a pretty pricey saw, but I'm intrigued by the idea. However, also came out with two cheaper, lighter versions of it, the MS 193C and MS 150C. While I'm a little leery on the lower power of the MS 150C, and not familiar with it, I've heard good things about the MS 193C.
My MS200 has a rear handle. It is the handiest little beast. I paid a small fortune for it NIB shortly after they were discontinued, it was money well spent.
Originally Posted by 16penny
If you put Taco Bell sauce in your ramen noodles it tastes just like poverty
I got a Stihl MS291 that I use all the time around our place. Perfect size for dropping average sized trees (25" or so. Not comfortable doing bigger ones) , limbing up, bucking. I'm tall and it's long enough that I can limb without looking like a question mark at the end of the day.
Haven't had a problem with it starting after sitting for a few months. I run ethanol free in it.
I'll be cuttin' limbs and trees maximum 10" diameter.
Mostly,..I want a saw that ain't gonna turn to chit after one winter of storage.
I don't really care about price, within reason. But I want it to start up in the spring after settin' all winter.
Stihl MS 261-CM is your baby. About $600 out the door. Lightweight-pro series saw, cuts way better than much larger saws. Use ethanol-free fuel and drain tank for the off season.
I've got a bad back but otherwise strong upper body and I prefer my Husky with a 28" bar because I don't have to bend over for hours at a time. If I was weak in the upper body I'd go lighter, shorter, and bend over. fwiw.
_______________________________________________________ An 8 dollar driveway boy living in a T-111 shack
As little as you are using it, Travis is right. I would say that the ethanol free premium fuel, premium 2-stroke oil, and a double dose of stabil is more important than what saw you get. I have a Stihl trimmer and it had gas that was 3 years old treated as above with no troubles. Contrary to most folks I leave mine full of fuel all the time. Buy gas in small quantities. I would get a 'farm' grade Stihl, Echo, or Husky.
While I cannot say from experience what to buy, I can say DO NOT buy a Poulan. From research that I have done so far, it seems like either a Husqvarna or Stihl is the way to go.
Husqvarna??? You didn't consider Echo? No matter what brand you buy get a carb. adjustment tool (you will probably have to buy it online) and remove the catalytic convertor if it has one (I think the Feds require them on all gas engines now). All 2 cycle engines are set from the factory the to run hot and lean in order to meet Federal emission requirements. Adjust the idle and high speed jets on the carb of you new chainsaw as soon as you start it. Your chainsaw will run better and last a lot longer. Running a 2 cycle engine lean is an incredibly bad idea.
I'll be cuttin' limbs and trees maximum 10" diameter.
Mostly,..I want a saw that ain't gonna turn to chit after one winter of storage.
I don't really care about price, within reason. But I want it to start up in the spring after settin' all winter.
You could buy pretty much anything (including Poulan) as long as you run real gas in it and use Stabil or Seafoam without fail.
Travis
Lots of truth here. I have a 7 year old $69 Homelite string trimmer that has only ever had 100LL avgas and dirtbike oil mix. It is on the original spark plug. I bought it thinking I could use it for one season on an ivy removal project and the throw it away wihtout any heart ache. Clean, fresh non ethanol will make almost anything last.
Last edited by smarquez; 10/22/17.
Fight fire, save lives, laugh in the face of danger.
I'll be cuttin' limbs and trees maximum 10" diameter.
Mostly,..I want a saw that ain't gonna turn to chit after one winter of storage.
I don't really care about price, within reason. But I want it to start up in the spring after settin' all winter.
You could buy pretty much anything (including Poulan) as long as you run real gas in it and use Stabil or Seafoam without fail.
Travis
Lots of truth here. I have a 7 year old $69 Homelite string trimmer that has only ever had 100LL avgas and dirtbike oil mix. It is on the original spark plug. I bought it thinking I could use it for one season on an ivy removal project and the throw it away wihtout any heart ache. Clean, fresh non ethanol will make almost anything last.
We are a bit fortunate here in that you cannot buy ethanol fuel (E10) locally, most of us use 98 in our small motors and let them run dry before putting them away.
Whatever you get, understand the function and maintenance of it. Many saws are quickly ruined by poor maintenance and making a saw perform beyond its capabilities.
"...aspire to live quietly, and to mind your own affairs, and to work with your hands, as we instructed you, so that you may walk properly before outsiders and be dependent on no one." - Paul to the church in Thessalonica.
Lots of good advice here. Stihl is the big name in my area. We have lots of trees, and lots of people who work them, etc. This is going to be a bit different in advice. I have a place where I don't burn wood for heat or cooking, so I'm not cutting wood for that. All I need is something that will handle trees and limbs up to 8 inches or so on those occasions where I need a power saw. I needed it for an old dead cherry tree with dry, hard wood. I needed it to clear a large, dense patch of rosemary I wanted to remove. Eventually, I'll remove a juniper hedge, etc. Rather than buy a gas saw, I bought a battery run saw made by DeWalt. It runs on a 60 volt motor and has lots of safety features. I probably won't be using it much more in future. If I need bigger stuff cut down, I know people who are very good at such things who I can hire to do it for me. Very unlikely I'll need their services very often. I can tell you this saw has been around for some time and cuts quite well. It's light, easy to handle, cuts beautifully, and leaves nothing to be desired. Yes, I have used several different gas style chain saws and have been paid for doing tree work, etc. Again, there is no need for me to cut up 2-6 cords of wood each year or to clear mature trees off of my property. E
Not sure why all the recommendations for a 20-24" bar to make up to 10" cuts. A 16" or 18" bar will be plenty enough, and will spin faster than a longer bar/chain.
Get something between 50-55cc with a 16-18" bar and skip chain. Keep that sucker sharp and watch it walk through wood like butter.
Landowner vs pro lines not sure that it matters much just buy a quality brand with good support from a local shop. Stabil/Seafoam for storage when not in use.
Longer bar......less bending over. Easier on the back. And skip chain on a short bar is gonna chatter..... And unless you go stupid on a bar length........the length of chain means little in chain speed. The sprocket will decide that.
I have a little MS 250 that I use for corral work.
It recieves zero maintenence and has been a great saw. Tool less chain tension, captured spring start.....which I dont think they make anymore.....and the Stihl quick caps.
When I finish using it for the year is it put in the shed....I use premium with no corn squeezings and Stihl oil and never empty them out.
I treat my 460 Magnum and my Pro Mac 850 more nicely.
Lots of good advice here. Stihl is the big name in my area. We have lots of trees, and lots of people who work them, etc. This is going to be a bit different in advice. I have a place where I don't burn wood for heat or cooking, so I'm not cutting wood for that. All I need is something that will handle trees and limbs up to 8 inches or so on those occasions where I need a power saw. I needed it for an old dead cherry tree with dry, hard wood. I needed it to clear a large, dense patch of rosemary I wanted to remove. Eventually, I'll remove a juniper hedge, etc. Rather than buy a gas saw, I bought a battery run saw made by DeWalt. It runs on a 60 volt motor and has lots of safety features. I probably won't be using it much more in future. If I need bigger stuff cut down, I know people who are very good at such things who I can hire to do it for me. Very unlikely I'll need their services very often. I can tell you this saw has been around for some time and cuts quite well. It's light, easy to handle, cuts beautifully, and leaves nothing to be desired. Yes, I have used several different gas style chain saws and have been paid for doing tree work, etc. Again, there is no need for me to cut up 2-6 cords of wood each year or to clear mature trees off of my property. E
If you got an extension cord......MSE-250 stihl. But bring a 10 ga extension if it's very long. 15 amp.
Really. A smaller 120 stihl or battery do work well. Just don't trust your chaps with electric saws.
Or really save money and get a Craigslist stihl 026.
Buy whatever is sold and serviced locally. I prefer Stihl.
Bristoe; Good afternoon sir, I trust all is well in your world and belated congratulations on your new rural retirement home.
As my cyber friend Aces said, absolutely get what is sold and serviced by a dealer you like.
I'm fortunate here in that the local guy sells Husky and Stihl and we've known each other and got along famously for more than two decades.
We've had Pioneer, Husky and Stihl here - currently have a Husky and a Stihl. From what I read I'd buy a Dohlmar if there were parts available, same with a Jonsered or an Echo.
As Travis noted, run real gas with a fuel stabilizer and use whatever mix oil the dealer recommends and sells. By the oil from them when you buy the saw - same with the bar oil. Warranty is a much simpler proposition when that's the chain of events.
If you're newish to a saw - or even if you're not - there's a good case to be made for saw chaps and a helmet. I'm imagining you're not healing any quicker with age as I'm surely finding Bristoe, so a bit of caution and PPE can't hurt.
Anyway sir, hope that was useful info, good luck whichever way you decide and all the best to you all this winter.
I'll be cuttin' limbs and trees maximum 10" diameter.
Mostly,..I want a saw that ain't gonna turn to chit after one winter of storage.
I don't really care about price, within reason. But I want it to start up in the spring after settin' all winter.
You could buy pretty much anything (including Poulan) as long as you run real gas in it and use Stabil or Seafoam without fail.
Travis
Quite true. I have a Poulan that is 4 years old now. It is for tree pruning and a couple camping trips a year. I only use Premium gas (Ethanol free), Sea Foam added (1 oz per gal) and synthetic 2-Stroke. It starts in 2-3 pulls each time.
We are looking to buy a house next year...one that will have supplemental wood heat...so I will be upgrading to a "good" saw. I am glad there is so much useful knowledge around here. In Rapid City, we can get most of the major brands serviced, so that is a plus. Just of the top of my head, Stihl, Echo and Husky are around.
Where is everyone finding non-ethanol fuel? I haven't seen it for sale in years.
l told my pap and mam I was going to be a mountain man; acted like they was gut-shot. Make your life go here. Here's where the peoples is. Mother Gue, I says, the Rocky Mountains is the marrow of the world, and by God, I was right. - Del Gue
My MS200 has a rear handle. It is the handiest little beast. I paid a small fortune for it NIB shortly after they were discontinued, it was money well spent.
Ain't they great. The replacement ms201 is like $650......
Where is everyone finding non-ethanol fuel? I haven't seen it for sale in years.
We have a couple places on the island that sells it and many stations, especially in farm country, sell it. Also all of the marinas around sell it. If it’s not available Stihl sells premixed non-ethanol gas in presealed cans at their dealerships. I bought a couple cans for emergency use and keep them in my saw box.
�Politicians are the lowest form of life on earth. Liberal Democrats are the lowest form of politician.� �General George S. Patton, Jr.
Where is everyone finding non-ethanol fuel? I haven't seen it for sale in years.
The gas station.
Dave
Yeah, I figured you could find ethanol-free gas just about anywhere since you can in these parts... Guess I was mistaken by the comments on here. In that case, Stabil is your best friend, if EF isn't available.
I have a husky 353 which is fine. not a pro saw. I probably cut up a cord of pine and 2 cords of oak a year. 353 would do you great. I try not mess around, end of the year I dump out the fuel in the tank, and next season mix up a new gallon.
I have the bar oiler set to max, and I buy bar oil by the gallon. out for half day I will fill the bar oil, fill the fuel tank, and take a qt replacement for each.
new chains are cheap, buy a couple, sharpen them regular, throw them away when they're used up.
my saw must be 10 years old. I throw on a new air filter and spark plug every so often.
starts up real good still. when it won't, I'll buy a new one.
mans life is too short to be tugging on a chainsaw starter rope all day.
I need a good one. Don't feel rained on if I don't respond to every post. Rest assured that I'm taking advice from everybody who voices information.
This is a good stihl saw, it's user friendly and has lots of safety features. Here is a good video showing all it's features, it is the perfect saw for ya bristoe! https://youtu.be/QqkKQcEk5tw
Thirty years ago, I use to run a little 16 inch Echo along with a 60 cc 20 inch Poulan (Sears labei) and cut about 35 cord of Ponderasa, Lodgepole, or Doug fir each summer. I also ran Homelite, Mac, and a Jonsered when helping various family gather wood. Now, granted this a bit dated.
The best of the bunch was that little 60cc Swede. That was before Husquavarna and Jonsered merged. The old Macs were big, slow and clunky, they would cut a little wood but made a better boat anchor. Homelite was a bit better, but not much. I remember right after St Helens blew, Jonsered came out with a special model for working in the volcanic ash. It was equipped with carbide teeth in the chain and a four inch diameter automotive style paper air filter sitting up in front of the handle. The local saw shop always kept one on display through those years.
That little Echo was pretty handy for limbing, or clearing brush so you could get in and fall a tree. And I used it well beyond its design, but when I needed a new saw, I went with a brand used by nearly half the professionals. Stihl. And I am glad I did. It has been bullet proof.
I let a couple other people use it over the years. One of them let the chain hit the dirt while working up an old dead 30 inch maple tree. Then kept right on pushing the saw through the cuts and fried the bar. I have consumed about eight chains in almost twenty years, so I don't work it like I used to run the old Poulan. But this 59 cc Stihl will cut twice the wood the 60 cc Poulan would. There is just no comparison. And the Poulan used to vapor lock every time you shut it off. You could take the fuel cap off and see the gas boiling in the tank. If you refueled it, sharpened the chain, ate a sandwich, got a big drink of water, and flirted with the girls a bit, it might have cooled off enough to restart.
The Stihl just starts......every time.
Like I said, my information is far from current. My last saw was purchased almost twenty years ago. The string trimmer is an Echo, and only about seven years old, but I have not been able to get it started the last three summers.
As far as I am concerned there are only three chainsaw brands built today. Jonsered/Husquavarna and Stihl.
People who choose to brew up their own storms bitch loudest about the rain.
Don't use leaded fuel in new chainsaws. Husky and Stihl saws are designed to meet Europe regulations--yes, Europe now has emission and fuel consumption standards on saws. On some models leaded fuel can mess up the muffler and sensors, and fool the fuel management computer (yes, saws now have computers just like vehicles).
Stabil Marine is your friend. I have four Honda powerplants, 4 "modern" chainsaws, 4 vintage saws that are 40-50 years old, two mowers, two trimmers, and a restored 1952 M38 Willys Jeep. They all have gas in them year round, everything but the saws will not be used for up to 6 months, the Jeep will sit for 6 months in the shop at 9200 ft altitude. They will all start easy in the spring. All my small engine gas cans get Stabil Marine every time I fill them up.
Colorado was one of the first to be mandated ethanol blend gas in the early 90's. With Stabil Marine my ethanol problems went away years ago. Run name brand premium fuel in the small engines--it's got lots of good additives that help an engine.
Casey
Not being married to any particular political party sure makes it a lot easier to look at the world more objectively... Having said that, MAGA.
Puregas.org is your friend. 2 years without stabilization is fine. But I use it anyway. Cheap insurance.
Thanks.
l told my pap and mam I was going to be a mountain man; acted like they was gut-shot. Make your life go here. Here's where the peoples is. Mother Gue, I says, the Rocky Mountains is the marrow of the world, and by God, I was right. - Del Gue
I need a good one. Don't feel rained on if I don't respond to every post. Rest assured that I'm taking advice from everybody who voices information.
This is a good stihl saw, it's user friendly and has lots of safety features. Here is a good video showing all it's features, it is the perfect saw for ya bristoe! https://youtu.be/QqkKQcEk5tw
Okay, that is pretty funny, if not very nice.
People who choose to brew up their own storms bitch loudest about the rain.
you use the Bud can as a shim. Just got done fixing about an hour ago an MS 211 for a guy that couldn't get it to start, E85 in the tank, homeowner POS Stihl
Where is everyone finding non-ethanol fuel? I haven't seen it for sale in years.
The gas station.
Dave
Yeah, I figured you could find ethanol-free gas just about anywhere since you can in these parts... Guess I was mistaken by the comments on here. In that case, Stabil is your best friend, if EF isn't available.
To be honest I don't think "pure" gasoline is as important as many make it out to be.
I do believe the highest octane available and Stabil is mandatory however when it comes to all things small engines. No doubt the OP already knows this but I don't think it can be echoed enough.
Dave
Originally Posted by Geno67
Trump being classless,tasteless and clueless as usual.
Originally Posted by Judman
Sorry, trump is a no tax payin pile of shiit.
Originally Posted by KSMITH
My young wife decided to play the field and had moved several dudes into my house
The only reason I use high octane is because all the ethanol free around these parts is premium and I'm convinced that ethanol is the enemy of all two strokes.
The only reason I use high octane is because all the ethanol free around these parts is premium and I'm convinced that ethanol is the enemy of all two strokes.
50:1 because of epa. Older saws and modified saws need more oil.
Stihl used to spec hi test gas. Could have changed.
I started out with a lemon yellow Power Mac 6 and it was a pos lemon. The last straw was when I got out in the woods to cut and it wouldn't start. A Homelite Super EZ was better, but that one broke. No more cheap stuff so I bought a mid size Husqvarna 257 and that has been a great saw with lots of compression, easy starting and that big 3/8 pitch chain really ripped through the wood. Stihl chains are the best according to my professional tree cutting buddy. That 257, good as it is, is still near 16 pounds and heavy after a while for just trimming. All the street department guys around here use Stilh equipment and so does my tree cutter buddy. Jim will buy every 020T Stihl that he can find and rebuild them. A great high speed pro saw, but best for one hand trimming work like bhemry wrote earlier. I wanted a small high end Stihl and when I saw an virtually unused demo MS150C on the used rack at the dealer for $450. I grabbed it. 7# 6oz. and just a joy to limb with. That 12" bar and a sharp 1/4" chain cuts amazingly well and is so narrow it doesn't make a wide saw kerf. A medium size saw and that little Stihl make a great combination. Don't go too large if you are only working with smaller trees.
My other auto is a .45
The bitterness of poor quality is remembered long after the sweetness of low price has faded from memory
E gas ain't the end of the world as long as it doesn't sit. If it sits, it absorbs water, corrodes, and wrecks hell on gaskets and hoses.
Small engines usually sit quite a bit.
And runs leaner, doesn't produce the same HP, and varies in content of the ethanol. Tried warning a crop farmer buddy of the problems with E85 and at least get a test kit and he laughed until he got 5 gallons of it for his saws that had 40% in it and smoked his 066
I started out with a lemon yellow Power Mac 6 and it was a pos lemon. The last straw was when I got out in the woods to cut and it wouldn't start. A Homelite Super EZ was better, but that one broke. No more cheap stuff so I bought a mid size Husqvarna 257 and that has been a great saw with lots of compression, easy starting and that big 3/8 pitch chain really ripped through the wood. Stihl chains are the best according to my professional tree cutting buddy. That 257, good as it is, is still near 16 pounds and heavy after a while for just trimming. All the street department guys around here use Stilh equipment and so does my tree cutter buddy. Jim will buy every 020T Stihl that he can find and rebuild them. A great high speed pro saw, but best for one hand trimming work like bhemry wrote earlier. I wanted a small high end Stihl and when I saw an virtually unused demo MS150C on the used rack at the dealer for $450. I grabbed it. 7# 6oz. and just a joy to limb with. That 12" bar and a sharp 1/4" chain cuts amazingly well and is so narrow it doesn't make a wide saw kerf. A medium size saw and that little Stihl make a great combination. Don't go too large if you are only working with smaller trees.
Once the first guy borrowed my 150 for cleaning out around their tree stand......word got around quick.
More like give them out to good friends and hope to get them back. Good is the operative word here.
I’d hate to lose a good friend over a C note. If things aren’t returned right away.....I worry about them. Not the stuff. Because I know there is a good reason.
I had used Homelites, Poulan, and McCoullok. Forgot the spelling. I borrowed a friends Stihl MS 290. When I bought a saw that's what I bought, I have had it 9 or 10 years. Starts up and runs great. I use real gas and stihl oil. I leave mine full all the time. Occasionally I get it out and start it and let it run a while when I'm not using it. I usually run the 20 " bar because I don't like bending over. It has been a pleasure to have a good saw that works like one should.
God bless Texas----------------------- Old 300 I will remain what i am until the day I die- A HUNTER......Sitting Bull Its not how you pick the booger.. but where you put it !! Roger V Hunter
I'll be cuttin' limbs and trees maximum 10" diameter.
Mostly,..I want a saw that ain't gonna turn to chit after one winter of storage.
I don't really care about price, within reason. But I want it to start up in the spring after settin' all winter.
Then Stihl (IF sold/serviced locally) is the way to go.. You won't need a yuge one - any of 'em with a 16" bar should suffice.
I have a 35+ year-old Olympic 261 that still runs like a champ... Whatever you get - ensure you use fuel with NO ethanol in it.. I hadn't run mine for nearly 2 years. On Friday I dumped out the old gas, mixed up a fresh batch (20-1) and filled the oiler.. About 5-6 pulls and off it went.. I really thought I was gonna be working at starting that baby for about an hour...
Ex- USN (SS) '66-'69 Pro-Constitution. LET'S GO BRANDON!!!
I've been using Amsoil synthetic 2 cycle oil in everything I've owned with a 2 cycle engine (even outboard boat motors) at 100:1 for 27 years. Never had to change a spark plug, clean carbon out of the exhaust and have never had any engine lubrication problems. It's much more expensive but well worth it. I bought my first chain saw 27 years ago and it still runs good but I don't use it much because I bought some other chainsaws with more power. I use regular 2 cycle oil for break in only.
U buy a husvarna if u want to build your upper body strength, u buy a stihl if u want to go to the service center... Then you buy a shidiwa if you want to make wood.....
I remember my dad having 15 different fugking cans for fuel. Lawnmower, leaf blower, weedeater, chainsaw...
FTS.
Dave
Same. One can, 50/1 for everything. I buy the little containers of Echo 2 smoke oil in a flat. One little bottle per gallon. Done.
I'm sure you could save some money buying a gallon jug and measuring, but WTF, as much as I use it'd save me maybe $10 a year. I ain't gonna miss it and would rather not keep stealing measuring cups out of the house.
“Life is life and fun is fun, but it's all so quiet when the goldfish die.”
Same. One can, 50/1 for everything. I buy the little containers of Echo 2 smoke oil in a flat. One little bottle per gallon. Done.
I'm sure you could save some money buying a gallon jug and measuring, but WTF, as much as I use it'd save me maybe $10 a year. I ain't gonna miss it and would rather not keep stealing measuring cups out of the house.
I do the same.
My dad also had the two stroke ratio measuring cup and a jug of two-stroke oil that could feed a landscaping crew for five seasons.
Dave
Originally Posted by Geno67
Trump being classless,tasteless and clueless as usual.
Originally Posted by Judman
Sorry, trump is a no tax payin pile of shiit.
Originally Posted by KSMITH
My young wife decided to play the field and had moved several dudes into my house
got a stihl 391 last xmas to replace the pos poulan 3400. night and day diff. beyond that, don't go buying a smaller hp saw that the pwr head weights as much or nearly as much as a more powerful saw. there's a few dollars diff, but the diff ain't enough. please read my statement again so that it's clear and you understand.
the 391 stihl will do it all, for the average joe blow, then some.
The only reason I use high octane is because all the ethanol free around these parts is premium and I'm convinced that ethanol is the enemy of all two strokes.
Ethanol free gas isn't available anywhere near where I live at the gas stations but you can sometimes find it a lawn equipment service shop for about $9.00 a gallon. The manuals for all my newer gas powered tools recommend 89 octane gas with STA-BIL (for ethanol). I thought that higher octane gas has more ethanol in it, but I'm probably wrong. Even the aviation gas at the small airports around here has ethanol in it.
Also......the bigger the engine, the heavier the powerhead. A heavy saw can be tough on us "older" guys backs. I personally like a 20" bar, long enough to take on most trees and provides reach without bending over as far when cutting on the ground or limbing. Depending on the weight of the powerhead, the correct length of bar can "balance" a saw and make it easier on the back.
The pro saws are great, but expensive. A specific recommendation would be a Husky Rancher 455 or the Stihl MS291. Both are 55cc landowner saws and are a good combo of size, weight, and power. Both will handle 20" bars. Both come in at under $500, hopefully even with tax in Kentucky.......
Well said, it's easy to get excited about a big bad powerful saw, but they wear you out. I did most of my cutting for years with an 81cc pro saw, cut like a mofo but my back was sore at the end of the day.
For $500, I'd say $300 saw, $50 for three extra loops of chains, $100 for a chain grinder and $50 for chaps.
If I was mostly limbing and dropping the occasional tree I'd get an echo CS-355T
I picked up an echo top handle saw that was worked hard by an arborist and figured it was cheap enough if it bounced out of snowmobile I wouldn't cry the loss. It's now my most used saw and I can't kill it. I wouldn't hesitate to replace it with a new Echo if it ever dies.
The are three things to know about chainsaws:
1) Sharp chain 2) Sharp chain 3) Sharp chain
A 35-40cc saw with a sharp chain will handily outcut a 50-60cc saw with a dull chain all day every day. Put the money into spare chains and the means to keep them sharp. And get just enough saw cut the wood you'll be cutting to keep from wearing yourself out.
My favorite chain saw mechanic (30 years ago) told me that the higher octane fuel you ran - in an air-cooled 2 stroke - the cooler the machine would run, and longer it would last. I did that until I moved where I couldn't get av-gas easily - but the first several years, that's all that little Jonsered saw! It is now 31 years old, and the only problems I've had concerned a leaking oiler, and the handle "insulators" wearing out! (looking for them right now!)
I've always been a curmudgeon - now I'm an old curmudgeon. ~Molɔ̀ːn Labé Skýla~
Hand filing with Granberg File-n-Joint works well for me. Oh sure, the real sawyers will scoff, but if it takes me a couple minutes longer and I end up with a sharp chain, I can live with that.
I keep one of these in the saw bucket for emergency use away from power. (And I keep two spare chains in the bucket so I do not have to use the file.)
I also have a bar mounted file guide. (Granberg File n Joint) It is the most accurate way to hand file a chain. Mine is Stihl brand. This link is Oregon brand. https://www.oregonproducts.com/en/File-Guide%2C-Bar-Mounted-Consumer/p/23820 The image will not transfer here.
It resembles my Stihl guide, but the Stihl has no plastic parts.
What kind of jigs are you folks using to sharpen your chains?
35+ years as a toolmaker has left me pretty handle with a file, but I'd prefer a jig to cut every tooth alike.
I love my Stihl clone, but I do not think it is made anymore, from looking at the website. And the only one listed from Oregon is a cheap looking POS with a bunch of plastic in it.
People who choose to brew up their own storms bitch loudest about the rain.
I pass 3-4 Stihl dealers on my way to work, but never have to fix my 20 year old 007 saw. Recommend them highly.
I'm familiar with the Stihl 07, which is 50+ years old. Not sure about the 007.
Last edited by High_Noon; 10/23/17.
l told my pap and mam I was going to be a mountain man; acted like they was gut-shot. Make your life go here. Here's where the peoples is. Mother Gue, I says, the Rocky Mountains is the marrow of the world, and by God, I was right. - Del Gue
Talk about unmanly Lonny......I drop mine off at the saw shop in Orifino for $6 a pop. I'm not rich but I only go throw a couple chains a year so it doesn't cut into my Top Raman budget too badly.
Gawd, do they ever cut once they come back from a professional sharpening!
I did that once before I bought a file.
I get by with a hand file, its no pro job but I had to learn.
No place to plug in a grinder on a fire and yes, the other firefighters will laugh at you if you use anything more than a round file, a flat file and a raker gauge.
The guy at that little shop does a great job. It's a small logging community so I'd guess he's a retired logger that knows his stuff. Living in a town full of loggers he'd never live it down if word got out that he couldn't sharpen a chain for chit.
Charlie I can't believe you admitted that on a public forum....
Seriously though, the Granberg is to sharpening chainsaw chain as the Apex Edge-Pro is to knife sharpening. If your a little off on your angles free-hand, the tool is your friend for staying on.
I've seen people though who swear up and down they can sharpen a loop of chain, but when you watch them cut it says much different. Case in point; my nephew makes his living as a wildland firefighter and even teaches saw safety stuff for them. When I watch him saw with a chain he sharpened, I feel sorry for a powerhead.
Stihl tells you to touch up sharpen every tank of gas. I do this by hand filing, 3 strokes. Works good. No need for a grinder. Many times a worn bar is the culprit instead of the chain.
Yes flip your bar everyday if your sawing steady, and turning the oiler up help with bar wear. Did you guys know your stihls and huskies have sights on them for falling trees? If you look on the fuel tank side there is a line sometimes its painted...those are to put your trees right where you want them to go. Make your undercut utilizing the sights on the saw.
Charlie I can't believe you admitted that on a public forum....
Seriously though, the Granberg is to sharpening chainsaw chain as the Apex Edge-Pro is to knife sharpening. If your a little off on your angles free-hand, the tool is your friend for staying on.
I've seen people though who swear up and down they can sharpen a loop of chain, but when you watch them cut it says much different. Case in point; my nephew makes his living as a wildland firefighter and even teaches saw safety stuff for them. When I watch him saw with a chain he sharpened, I feel sorry for a powerhead.
Post a picture for folks if you could.
They were made by different folks and sold by different folks over the years. Sears and Montgomery Wards at least.
The earlier ‘file n joint’ by Granberg were some of the best I’ve been told.
A picture would help folks recognize them at yard sales and such.
I have used the jigs, now just hand file. Don't let the perfectionists BS you, if you keep your depth gauges even and set right, a saw can cut very good with wonky looking teeth. I am very serious about my saws, but if you angle varies a little it won't be noticable.
On another note, keep an eye on burrs that can form on the edge of the bar. The best cutting chain won't cut if those burrs hang up on the wood. If you are getting a lot of those burrs, you are ruining your bar, sharpen better/more often.
Parents who say they have good kids..Usually don't!
Laffin....what a joke. I haven't come across a comparable Stihl that will run with My Husky 55. I have found Stihls to be cold natured and easy to flood when starting. An ol boy that I do some sawmilling with has a Stihl, and it takes it quite a while to get going without stalling out. At that point I have already cut a good bit. This happened just a few days ago. I have a Stihl weed eater that will be my last Stihl product.
Charlie I can't believe you admitted that on a public forum....
Seriously though, the Granberg is to sharpening chainsaw chain as the Apex Edge-Pro is to knife sharpening. If your a little off on your angles free-hand, the tool is your friend for staying on.
I've seen people though who swear up and down they can sharpen a loop of chain, but when you watch them cut it says much different. Case in point; my nephew makes his living as a wildland firefighter and even teaches saw safety stuff for them. When I watch him saw with a chain he sharpened, I feel sorry for a powerhead.
Post a picture for folks if you could.
They were made by different folks and sold by different folks over the years. Sears and Montgomery Wards at least.
The earlier ‘file n joint’ by Granberg were some of the best I’ve been told.
A picture would help folks recognize them at yard sales and such.
257,
Since the photobucket debacle awhile back, I haven't taken the time to find a new photo hosting site. The Granberg in picture posted by Roundoak a page or two back looks pretty much just like mine from what I can tell.
Funny you should mention finding them at yards sales. My kid often goes to yard sales and awhile back, he bought a box of well-used-tools and some sort of chain sharpener thingamajig was in there.
257, I enjoy your posts on chainsaw topics. Thanks for sharing it.
I've never sharpened a chainsaw blade, but I've lived most of my life with a file either in my hand or nearby. Thinking about it, I bet I could sharpen one freehand.
I've never sharpened a chainsaw blade, but I've lived most of my life with a file either in my hand or nearby. Thinking about it, I bet I could sharpen one freehand.
I just need to know what's the proper file.
They sell sets of them to cover all the different sizes. They're cheap. Like under $10.
There's a million videos on youtube about it.
Dave
Originally Posted by Geno67
Trump being classless,tasteless and clueless as usual.
Originally Posted by Judman
Sorry, trump is a no tax payin pile of shiit.
Originally Posted by KSMITH
My young wife decided to play the field and had moved several dudes into my house
Back in my youth 18-21 I worked in the woods in the much hated state of Oregon, on a slice of heaven called the Warm Springs Indian reservation.. Tuesday-Thursday we had 6-8 on our crew, Friday-Monday maybe 3 of us lol another story another day.. . Anyhow the saws we ran were stihl 044mag or a huski 281.. running 32-36 inch bars everyday after work we would sit and sharpen the chains [bleep] did it suck. So we ran full skip...
Originally Posted by Bricktop
Then STFU. The rest of your statement is superflous bullshit with no real bearing on this discussion other than to massage your own ego.
I use a Pferd sharpening jig. It does the teeth and rakers at the same time and is quick and portable. I have a harbor freight electric sharpener as well and it does a surprisingly decent job for as cheap as it is.
What kind of jigs are you folks using to sharpen your chains?
35+ years as a toolmaker has left me pretty handle with a file, but I'd prefer a jig to cut every tooth alike.
Sorry about the lack of picture quality, I use an Oregon unit and have had no problems with it. I simply sharpen twelve chains and ignore the sharpening issue 'til I get down to three sharp chains.
Laffin....what a joke. I haven't come across a comparable Stihl that will run with My Husky 55. I have found Stihls to be cold natured and easy to flood when starting. An ol boy that I do some sawmilling with has a Stihl, and it takes it quite a while to get going without stalling out. At that point I have already cut a good bit. This happened just a few days ago. I have a Stihl weed eater that will be my last Stihl product.
No joke, I am serious, however your experience may vary.
Charlie I can't believe you admitted that on a public forum....
Seriously though, the Granberg is to sharpening chainsaw chain as the Apex Edge-Pro is to knife sharpening. If your a little off on your angles free-hand, the tool is your friend for staying on.
I've seen people though who swear up and down they can sharpen a loop of chain, but when you watch them cut it says much different. Case in point; my nephew makes his living as a wildland firefighter and even teaches saw safety stuff for them. When I watch him saw with a chain he sharpened, I feel sorry for a powerhead.
Post a picture for folks if you could.
They were made by different folks and sold by different folks over the years. Sears and Montgomery Wards at least.
The earlier ‘file n joint’ by Granberg were some of the best I’ve been told.
A picture would help folks recognize them at yard sales and such.
I posted a picture of my Granberg G-106-A File-N-Joint earlier in this thread...here it is again.
I have at least half a dozen chains for each saw and when a couple need touch up sharpening I take them to the local hardware store and for $5 they sharpen them. I have files and jigs but it’s just easier for me to drop them off one day and pick them up the next. I usually buy a couple chains a year from the Stihl dealer, they have a buy one get one half price sales sometimes and that’s when I stock up.
�Politicians are the lowest form of life on earth. Liberal Democrats are the lowest form of politician.� �General George S. Patton, Jr.
I inherited one of those sharpening jigs from the late former husband and I really should give it a try because using my files like I have been would have my saw cutting around in a circle given a big enough log. My saw is telling me that I've been filing my chains more on one side than the other..
My other auto is a .45
The bitterness of poor quality is remembered long after the sweetness of low price has faded from memory
I can make a dull chain cut better, but it's still going to be a long way from a professionally sharpened chain. I just take them to the local saw shop.
“Life is life and fun is fun, but it's all so quiet when the goldfish die.”
Bristoe, there is something none of us has mentioned yet.
Here in NSW the Rural Fire Service runs saw courses pretty much encompassing all one needs to know about the use and maintenance of a chainsaw, and I would bet London to a brick that similar agencies in your area would do the same. They generally have a reasonable selection of saws to play with and it would give you the opportunity to see what suits you.
And as some have mentioned, higher octane fuel does make the saw start and run easier, I use 98 and run the mix at 50:1...it also pays to run decent bar oil in the saw, a lot of the commercial cutters around here mix the bar oil with used motor oil, I refuse to do so as I only use 20 litres of bar oil for the season so the cost is negligible in the scheme of things.
Charlie I can't believe you admitted that on a public forum....
Seriously though, the Granberg is to sharpening chainsaw chain as the Apex Edge-Pro is to knife sharpening. If your a little off on your angles free-hand, the tool is your friend for staying on.
I've seen people though who swear up and down they can sharpen a loop of chain, but when you watch them cut it says much different. Case in point; my nephew makes his living as a wildland firefighter and even teaches saw safety stuff for them. When I watch him saw with a chain he sharpened, I feel sorry for a powerhead.
Post a picture for folks if you could.
They were made by different folks and sold by different folks over the years. Sears and Montgomery Wards at least.
The earlier ‘file n joint’ by Granberg were some of the best I’ve been told.
A picture would help folks recognize them at yard sales and such.
I posted a picture of my Granberg G-106-A File-N-Joint earlier in this thread...here it is again.
All well and good but personally,I think anyone should just learn how to sharpen a chain. 3-4 times a day for about a month and you should get the hang of it. It does help to have someone who knows to show you a couple times.
Sometimes a bar needs filing too where the edge has rolled over. When a chain gets a little worn a couple strokes on the drags will make it cut better too.
I’ll touch up a chain with a file in a pinch. Have jigs but don’t use them. Just the little clamp on guide. Like sharpening a knife. Get a good angle and keep it. I grind chains. I take care of a friends chains with an orchard. Used by workers who don’t care. They get rocked a lot.
And once you got grinders set up right a 20” chain takes maybe 5-6 minutes. And if you got the angles right and know how to grind......it’s sharp. If you don’t know......don’t cut very well.
One toolmaker to another a flat file for the depth teeth, the correct diameter round file ( I use Sandvic ) for the chain size, same number of full strokes on each tooth, and a little practice you will be fine. Stihl chain has the angle etched on the top of the tooth but if you give the chain a few strokes after every tank a fuel and don't hit anything with it you can lay the file into the tooth and get the feel for the angle before you start. Get a depth gage for the depth teeth. Turn your bar over when you feel a wire edge building up and flat draw file the top surface of the bar the lightly break the edge
One toolmaker to another a flat file for the depth teeth, the correct diameter round file ( I use Sandvic ) for the chain size, same number of full strokes on each tooth, and a little practice you will be fine. Stihl chain has the angle etched on the top of the tooth but if you give the chain a few strokes after every tank a fuel and don't hit anything with it you can lay the file into the tooth and get the feel for the angle before you start. Get a depth gage for the depth teeth. Turn your bar over when you feel a wire edge building up and flat draw file the top surface of the bar the lightly break the edge
I use Grobet files when I can get them. Pricey but best I’ve used.
Grobet's are hard to find in my part of the country. Also I use a 5" bench vice to clamp the bar in to sharpen the chain on the saw in the shop. Tighten the chain before you start to hold the link flat against the bar before starting. Stihl has a double same side tooth and a green link to use as a start marker. I use a paint pen on my Husky's to mark the starting tooth. A linoleum knife works well to clean out the bar channel and also give the nose sprocket a shot of grease every time I flip the bar unless it is a hardnose bar
Also skip tooth chain is for added chip clearance for large diameter cuts and softer wood. A lot of people run them because they have an underpowered saw for the cut length. Same as a mill, chip load per engagement in cut. On small diameter, short cuts they vibrate a lot more
Grobet's are hard to find in my part of the country. Also I use a 5" bench vice to clamp the bar in to sharpen the chain on the saw in the shop. Tighten the chain before you start to hold the link flat against the bar before starting. Stihl has a double same side tooth and a green link to use as a start marker. I use a paint pen on my Husky's to mark the starting tooth. A linoleum knife works well to clean out the bar channel and also give the nose sprocket a shot of grease every time I flip the bar unless it is a hardnose bar
I like the linoleum knife idea. Grobet files always seem hard to find. But for gun work they are a joy to use.
If you're going to do an appreciable amount of cutting, plunk down for a chain grinder
It's one thing to touch up a chain with a file, but to get every cutter to the same angle, depth and length as well as setting the depth of cut as the chain wears a grinder is the tool for the job.
Lonny; Thanks. I enjoy saws and making them work as well as possible. I have been lucky to know a lot of knowledgeable people to compare different things.
I’m lazy. I like the things that make my job easier.
I'm surprised that lots of places don't have the no alcohol gasoline. Most of the premium gas in these parts is leaded and we have one station in town that has no alcohol mid grade which has a lower flash point than premium gas. I really like that stuff in all my small engines. According to the manual being okay and before I knew better I ran no lead regular in a snow blower and the muffler was glowing cherry red. That can't be good for the piston I thought to myself. I switched to that leaded mid grade or premium and have never seen that exhaust that hot again. I was talking to the John Deere dealer down in Milwaukee and he told me that the majority of their maintenance issues is because of the bad, oxygenated, unleaded Milwaukee gasoline. He takes his own gas cans out of the area to get the better gasoline for his small engines. I never gas up the vehicles in big cities for the same reason.
My other auto is a .45
The bitterness of poor quality is remembered long after the sweetness of low price has faded from memory
I have a stihl 250 for yard work and it's great. It's a light weight saw with decent power for it's size. It's cut waaaaay more for me than it was designed for!
There are only 3 countries in the world that still have widespread use of leaded fuel. The US isn't one of them. I'm not sure where you get gas in Milwaukee, but I can assure you none of it is leaded.
![[Linked Image]](https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81UkJW5pCoL._SL1500_.jpg)
![[Linked Image]](https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/gallery/80/full/55508.jpg)
![[Linked Image]](http://i67.tinypic.com/30vbzit.jpg)
![[Linked Image]](http://s37.photobucket.com/user/montanasam/media/CampingJune2008043.jpg.html)
![[Linked Image]](https://s1.postimg.org/593nmoqr33/IMG_0938.jpg)
![[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]](https://i.postimg.cc/nhqZTmxJ/Screen-Shot-2020-11-08-at-5-01-55-PM.png)
![[Linked Image]](http://s617.photobucket.com/user/jackpine44/media/huskystihl_zpsoco8cel6.jpg.html)
![[Linked Image]](https://www.echo-usa.com/getattachment/8708b312-83cd-4f50-a39f-2bb9a23ac05c/CS-355T_nocallouts.jpg)
![[Linked Image]](http://s617.photobucket.com/user/jackpine44/media/chainsawsharpening_zpsftixhke1.jpg.html)
![[Linked Image]](https://www.stihlusa.com/WebContent/Images/Product/803/completefilekits.png?preset=Product.ProductDetails.jpg)
![[Linked Image]](http://imghostr.net/images/2017/10/25/d969b1f888135010ff51bf0f3f4d9c0e.jpg)
![[Linked Image]](http://www.baileysonline.com/productImages/image.axd/i.ORF+620120/w.1000/h.1000/x._AZ/xm.0/Oregon+Bench+Mounted+Chain+Grinder+(120+Volt)+with+Hydraulic+Clamp+620-120_L.jpg)
![[Linked Image]](http://s37.photobucket.com/user/montanasam/media/montanasam014/IMG_2844.jpg.html)
![[Linked Image]](http://s37.photobucket.com/user/montanasam/media/montanasam014/IMG_2845.jpg.html)
![[Linked Image]](http://s37.photobucket.com/user/montanasam/media/montanasam014/IMG_2846.jpg.html)