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I used to trap a bit when I was a kid. Mostly rodents and raccoons. Actually used to make some money trapping gophers. Kept me in Wildcat .22 solids which were a penny a piece.

Had an assortment of box traps and foot holds.

After a recent go at a weasel.....did not catch him....the kids got really interested in learning how to trap.

I never did any coyote or muskrat trapping and would like to learn how, maybe those screwball kids would get into it as well.


Is there a good book out there that would cover the basics? Maybe just enough to get me started?

Thanks.

I could help you with muskrat trapping. It's easy if there are any around.

What conditions do you have? Creek, slough, shallow, deep, etc?

What size and type traps do you have available?

I have some old 00 foot holds and some new D size foot holds.

A few `110 body holds and 4 330 body holds.

On my place it is mostly little ponds in the coulees where there are some muskrat. Shallow.

I could get out into the hills on some creeks for rats and beaver.

JC, google Gutenberg, go down about 1/2 page to find eBooks and click on first one 'book search', on search bar type in 'trapping'. There are lots of ebooks on just about every kind of trapping you can imagine. Not all of it is relevant to what you want to do, but some interesting reading. I'm no expert, but what little I know, this is where I learned most of it.

I'm not sure what the D size means?

I personally would not bother with the 00 myself, as you will catch muskrats but also lose enough of them to make it bothersome. That trap is better for weasels, or actual barn rats.

The 110 conis are fine for muskrat. The 330 conis are for beaver. Be very careful with those--they'd crunch a kid's arm pretty good if they messed around.

Are the ponds frozen yet, or will you be trapping in open or frozen water?

Ha! I looked at the pan and it had a D on it.........they are actually #0 long springs.


All the water is open for now. All I can figure is to set a 110 in a run.

The water will freeze here shortly next month.

The ponds were all dry earlier but now after that snow we have a little water in them.

Soon I think the rats will be headed out across the prairie to find better water.

Thanks for the tip OldMan. I will check that out later.

DakotaDeer........can you use a size #0 in the water or does it have to be dry?

The size 0 longs will work in water or dry, but if dry you will get wring-outs where the rat twists its own foot off. A bigger trap actually catches the 'rat up higher above his elbow and he won't wring out. But if you're drowning them then it won't matter. Your bigger problem will be when you catch a raccoon and he pulls himself to the offside of the trap away from the spring, then pulls out. Or a mink that spins himself out. If it were me, I would take the springs off of half of the 0 traps and put them on the other half of the traps, making a double longspring size 0. Nothing will pull out of that if it gets into it. On small ponds, you will be getting muskrat, coon, and mink, with an occasional coyote. All of those critters will be able to swim with that small of a trap stuck on their foot so you have to come up with alternate ways of drowning them.

On those small ponds, the rats have to have a home, which usually means they have a tunnel in the banks somewhere. You can find those by walking around in the water with waders and poking your boots up into every little crevice. Sometimes you can see a muddy water trail leading up to the bank then find the hole.

Here are some sets that will work:
1) 110 coni set in a "run" on the bottom, staked to the bottom

2) 110 coni covering a den hole in the bank, staked in the water

3) 110 coni on a pole about 2' off the bank or near some cattails, wedged up so that the trap is just below the surface of the water, put a carrot on the trigger for bait.

4) 0 foothold set in a "pocket" that you make right on the edge of the water with your boot. Set trap in about 2" of water, with a long chain/wire running 3' out to a stake in deeper water. You then put a second stick in the deeper water about 2' away from the actual stake. That second stick is to cause them to tangle the chain when they start swimming around. Once they tangle on the second stake, they will be stuck and drown.

5) The above set but using a wire slide drowner going out to deeper water instead. One end of wire staked solid to the bank, other end of wire staked solid in deep water. Trap is attached through a drowner slide that only goes in one direction. This is better than the above, since it will pull down a huge coon or even a coyote with just a small trap. Once they try to swim away they pull themselves down the wire and there is no possible return.

6) A muskrat float or stool. Take a 2x6 cut to about 16" long, with a small hole drilled dead center that just slides over a 4' pole. Good poles are 3/8" fiberglass fence posts if you have them, or 1/2" conduit or pvc. Put the pole in about 2' of water near some cattails with the float on it. Then slide your trap ring down the pole and float the trap on the wood platform. You can set two traps on each float. The rats will go crazy trying to climb up on the float--when they do they stick their foot right in the trap and then jump off into the water. You need more weight on your trap to drag them to the bottom. Zip tie a piece of channel iron or something heavy to the underside of your trap frame. Or just use a size 2 trap or heavier. This is probably the easiest set to make. If a coon decides to swim out and go for a ride on the float, he will rip everything to shreds and probably run away with your trap too. Oh well. You can run hundreds of floats at once if you want to haul them. There is a variation of a float that is made out of heavy wire clips that you can buy. That eliminates the wood float and uses the trap itself as the platform. That lets you run extra hundreds of traps at once if you desire.

7) The old "leaning pole" set, which is pretty fun for kids especially. Cut a 6 or 8' stick pole a couple inches in diameter. Push it into the bottom at a 45 degree angle so it is sticking up out of the water just a few inches. Strip some bark off the pole as an attractant. Place your foothold trap on a little nail about 6 inches below the water line. Your traps should have a hole in the bottom cross member already or else drill one there. When the muskrat comes to check out the pole, he will be lazy and try to climb up the 45 degree angle. When he puts his back foot down to get traction he gets caught in the trap then jumps off and drowns.

8) If you can trap huts legally in Montana (check regulations first), then you can put traps on the side of huts or it might even be legal there to put traps inside the huts themselves. That's usually an endeavor best left to well after freeze up with solid ice.

Sets #5 and 6 are your money makers.

Set #5 will catch a lot of different types of critters.
Set #6 is how you catch thousands of rats fast.

If I were you, I'd double spring those longsprings that you have, and go at it with a combo of the above two sets. Throw some conis in for fun.

Thanks very much for the info!

I picked up some 220's and a couple each 1.5 and 2 under spring(?) traps.

I'm assuming the 1.5 and 2 traps are "coil spring" if they are new. An underspring trap is also called a "jump trap" and haven't been made in a couple of decades.

Those bigger traps will pull rats to the bottom pronto, and will hold coons as well. If you think you'll catch coons with the 2 size, try to keep them standing in water or else they will chew their own toes off on a trap that large.

The 1.5 is about the perfect all-purpose water trap.

Yes, coil spring traps. Duke. Pretty affordable. I never used them as a boy.....I was not strong enough to set them.

I had never thought of that, a trap being large enough to allow an animal access to the underside.

So much to know!

I thought I could use the 2's on a dirt hole set for coyotes.

Thanks again!

Hoping the rats come back. Most of my ponds where I used to see rats are dry.

Some of them have a little water again.

Rat ponds are mostly dried up here over the past couple of years as well.

Last year, rats on the carcass were only bringing 50 cents around here. Not worth it except for a little fun.

If you want to make any money, go for coyotes.

This book was my bible when I was starting out.

https://www.amazon.com/Trapping-American-Furbearers-Hawbaker-paperback/dp/B0031TRYY2

Check with your state trappers assc. Some have trapping classes, MN used to and I believe PA had a very good trapping book.

I have about a dozen legholds myself. Locally, a trapper safety course is required first. I may have to find time for the course.

Rather than trying to learn from a book, I would recommend getting a few videos, they will cut the learning curve tremendously and a lot quicker.

I never rat trapped so I can't help with that. For coyotes, I recommend Mark June's Coyote Trapping Vol 1 and 2. There are other good ones but those are the best.

Equipment has advanced a lot in recent years. A lot probably because you have to be able to hold coyotes just about anywhere in the lower 48 now. Figuring out what equipment you want to use is something the videos can be useful for as well.

Thanks for the info and suggestions everyone.

Got a few traps out this morning for some prairie dogs.

My neighbors dog town is crawling today! I could just shoot em........but the kids and I had fun.

I have a picture of the kids and I with a prairie dog caught in a 110.

Be damned if I know how to post it.

Taking up trapping is a bad move....next thing you know, you'll be out stringing steel instead of deer hunting, duck hunting, or whatever other
activities you enjoy. Trapping is addictive, especially canine trapping. I can shoot a coyote way out there when I'm calling, but to trap him, I
have to make him step on one square inch of God's green earth. Maybe it's the challenge thats so addictive, but when you connect, its great!

Trapperman.com has an archive of posts containing 100's of hours of reading on everything you'd want to know on trapping. You have great coyote trapping up there, as well as cats IRC

Hi...I'm new here but have viewed this forum frequently and your post persuaded me to join in.
First of all, kudos to you on spending time with your kids. Any time spent with a kid is time well spent and follows with many rewards for all involved. I always had an interest in trapping as a young boy but had no one to show me and I knew no trappers. I have four boys and about 10 years ago my boys showed interest and wanted to trap so we jumped right in. We caught four muskrats and three coons. In the years that have passed my oldest boys have grown into pretty successful trappers. We have caught bobcat, coyote, muskrat, raccoon, mink and otter and it has been more fun than I would have ever imagined.
When we have lines out, we are in the outdoors every day and see more wildlife than the average person would believe existed. You also have to learn the target animals, their habits, where they live and how they travel. The knowledge that you and your kids have of wildlife will increase dramatically, plus it is time you all get to spend together.
The others who have responded to your post have gave you some good information, especially DakotaDeer. I also highly recommend Trapperman.com. There is tons of good information there. I would also recommend any video that you can buy concerning your target catch. One of my favorites is Catching Canines from Hoosier Trapper Supply. That video will save you hours of work and frustration and is well worth the money. The Mark June videos are also very good. There are also some good videos on youtube, especially anything with Clint Locklear.
The first three years we trapped we were only armed with what we could read as we had no one to show us, but after I broke down and bought a few videos we were plumb embarrassed about some of the stupid stuff we had been doing, lol. Our catch numbers started to go up to.
I would also suggest that you buy good equipment, especially if you plan on going after coyotes. You get what you pay for. It doesn't have to be MB's, but get a good 4-coiled trap no smaller than size 2 with offset jaws. You wont be sorry. And cable stakes are worth their weight in gold!
Anyway, good job with them kids. Start em' on muskrats. They're easy to catch, easy to skin and easy to flesh. I've hunted and fished all of my life and probably had more fun trapping than anything I've ever done concerning the outdoors. Good luck!

Thanks again everyone.

Just put an order in for some supplies.

Got some Duke no.2 offset traps coming and some cable stakes.

Gonna try some hole sets first and then maybe some post sets.

Truth^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

If you were targeting Cats I could help you Jim but even though I catch a few unintended Coyotes in my Cat sets I don't target them and I know absolutely nothing about water trapping.
You should be fine with dirt holes. That's what I use so I know they'll catch Coyotes and I'm sure I'd catch more if I was more careful about human scent but Cats don't care so I stink up my sets pretty bad. More than once when there was snow on the ground I've seen where a Coyote was walking along, caught scent of my lure and headed that direction but turned away when they got a few feet away from my set.

FWIW....I use four coiled off-set MB 550's and earth anchors.

Good luck to you and the young ones and just so ya know, those big MT pale's are fetching pretty good money right now.

ID Cat season doesn't start until mid Dec so I'll have to wait a while.

BTW.......I'm not sure how far he is from you but if you can you might try to hook up with Laker....he and his snares are a Coyotes worst nightmare.

He is quite a ways east of me, but it would be cool as heck to get some OJT from someone.

I have been able to get some information about foot hold trapping....but so far snaring is still a mystery!


I placed a big order for some stuff after a bunch of research. I will talk to some fur buyers soon. Should not be too hard to pay for a couple traps.

I hope!

Jim, you look a lot like that guy in your avatar.


mike r

Ive been trapping professionally for many years. You've gotten some great info. Websites and the internet are great as long as you can separate the good advice from the bad ( lots of armchair experts out there) I would suggest you get a subscription to one or two trapping magazines, Fur Fish Game, Trappers Post, or Trapper and Predator Caller. The editors of those magazines vet writers and articles carefully so you get some pretty sound advice. Good luck and have fun!

Save the prairie dogs for coyote bait.

I wish I had thought about that!

Left it lay....in the back of my mind I was worried about the plague.

That sucker was gone the next day, and I have seen coyotes working that dog town several times.

I would think a hole set would be a long shot with all those holes around, but there are several fences in and around the dog town.

Would a post set maybe be a better option?

I ordered some stuff that should be here soon..including some no.2 Duke offset traps.

The look on your sons face in that picture is pure gold!! Well done! Though I've never done any trapping, I plan to give it a bit of a try this winter with my two boys over Xmas break.

I've never heard of using bait for Coyote trapping.

Lure yea....but not bait.

School me.

Good luck.

Kids were whining a bit after supper because all the kids in their classes have these damned "fidget" spinners.

I countered by asking them how many kids in their classes are running a prairie dog trap line?

They decided that catching an animal in a trap is more exciting than spinning a piece of Chinese crap on your finger.

I am excited to start trapping that dog town for coyote Charlie.

Do you think that a post set would be better than a hole set? Seems to me that it would.


Would a badger be attracted to a post set? With bait I suppose he would.


I dont want to catch the badgers.

Jim......like I said "I target Cats and use dirt holes exclusivly" so I really can't say.
I just started trapping to kill the time in the winter when I retired so I'm far from an expert.
My advise......try em both.

I actually did try my hand at snaring one year.....the only thing I caught was a young of year Whitetail.

I ate it.

Ha! Best to not let it go to waste.

Is a dirt hole for a bobcat similar to what I have seen for a coyote?

We dont have cats up here, but they do in the hills to the south of me.

Yea.....same thing but Cats are so stupid you can pile debris up and literally make em step where you want.
Course trapping in the timber as opposed to your terrain is going to require different set-ups but dirt holes work for Coyotes too.

You're gonna have a blast though once you figure out what works in your AO.


This is kind of cool......I make all my sets at the base of Pine trees...keeps the snow off and they can't come in from the back side. Then I pile sticks up to funnel em to the hole.
Well I have one tree (I call it the money tree) that I've caught more critters at over the years than all of my other sets combined.

Here's some good pix where you can see how the catch circles have literally cut a bank on the uphill side over the years.

Started out like this.


And now it looks like this.




I even catch a Cat there once in a while.



You and your kids will have a ball and I applaud you for getting them outside and away from the "screens".

Jim- I just got from your part of MT and can say I'm jealous of the ease of access you have for your kids to stuff like this. However, don't discount the fidget spinners yet. I saw one where the "wings" are bottle openers!! 🤔

If you are going to kill a bunch of prairie dogs, you can make a bait pile. Once it stinks a bit coyotes will come to get a free meal. If you have a "dead pile" around the ranch, that is even better. You don't trap at the pile--you figure out a travel route coming in like along the fenceline, then set the trap there.

If you've got but a couple prairie dogs (or skunks work better), you can find a wide open area in a field that you know coyotes run the edges of. Bury the dead skunk headdown with half its tail sticking out in the air, with a trap about 8" off the base with some kind of blocking on the back side. Coyotes love to eat dead skunks and prairie dogs.

If you're just going to trap the dog town itself, don't bother with dirt hole sets. Find the travel lanes that they come on, probably along a fence line, and set a flat set, step down, urine post, or something similar.

Also, coyotes travel in family groups a lot--always gang set. If it's worth one trap in that area, then it's worth a couple more.

Thats a hell of a tree Charlie! That hole is gonna hold water in a few more years!

Pointer...yeah, we are pretty lucky out here. Its a pretty good area for a kid. Lots of things have changed in society, but in rural north eastern Montana a kid can still do things we remembered doing as a kid. I had a Honda Trail 90, a 22 and a tackle box. When I was not picking rock, I was out on the prairie by myself. Couldn't have asked for more!



DakotaDeer.....thanks for the continued info. I am learning a lot.

But when you say "gang set" does that mean multiple traps around the same set or does that mean multiple sets in a smaller area?


Thanks again everyone.

In La., its legal to use any bait you want for trapping. I freeze the heads/hides of deer and hogs and when deer season is over, I start trapping. Stake the hide where it cant be pulled away and place 2-3 traps around it. Be sure to use drags, not stakes on the traps. Sometimes it takes a few days for the coyotes to come to the bait. Bobcats will usually come to the deer bait right away. In fact, after about 3 days, the cats wont fool with the bait. 2 years ago, I had 2 traps on a fresh deer hide set and had a bobcat in each trap the next morning.

Be sure to use drags. I have used stakes, but the set will get torn up. Then it will be several days before another coyote will come in.

I use lures also, but this is the best coyote set I've found.

Gang setting is the latter generally, or even a combo of both descriptions. But what I meant was, if you have a hot area with good sign make sure that you place multiple sets around to catch multiple critters. Especially on coyotes from now until mid-January as they travel in "family packs" quite often.

Okay, thanks.


Next question....and thanks again everyone for taking the time.

I bought some Berkshire "disposable" stakes. I put that in quotations because I will damn well be trying to pull them out and reusing them when I am done........


Should I boil the stakes, or is that not a big deal?

No boil needed. Good luck getting them out. You have to dig them. Not worth your time.

No boil, needed. I dig mine out, but I don't have rocky ground either. I can bang my trowel in along side the stake, twist a few times and pull it up. I does take some effort and I loose about 25% of them along the way.

Notice the nice "pad" catch on the yote, coon, and cat.! Perfect.!

Trapping near pines is a good way to prevent freeze up, collect the needles and cover your set with them, the melting snow and rain will will drain through the needles.

High hits, like say a coon stepping into a #2 is not a good thing, broken bones lead to loss, no circulation promotes chewing.
Anytime you are near water (coon, 'rat, mink, beaver, otter, etc) try to work a drownding set.
On dry land put a swivel under the center of the frame, put another swivel in the chain, and another at the stake, this prevents wringing outs.
And for yotes, run the same swivel system, but keep the chain short so they can't lunge, if they can lunge they often can get away...or break your trap.


I agree with the others here that suggested Trapperman.com as a resource.

Time afield is the best teacher.



Also, Minnisota Brand, Sleepy Creek, and the old Northwoods (if you can find them) are are good leghold traps with Belisle Body Grips are amazingly strong AND well built.

Jim- You did better than I in getting the kids started in trapping. We did get some traps set, but no catches over 3 nights. Unusual cold spell had things laid up I think. Didn't even see much in the way of tracks in the bit of snow we had one night. However, here's photo proof that we tried...
Untitled by Tyler Staggs, on Flickr

Looks like it was time well spent though!

Thanks for the info guys, would love to hunt/trap hogs this year with my kids.

Jim,

The website I linked below is full of good info and very experienced trappers willing to share knowledge.

One of them is a hottie too!

http://trapperman.com/

I like setting under Pines because they keep the snow and rain at bay but I learned the hard way that too many pine needles can clog up the trap and prevent it from closing all the way.
I dig down and get dry pine duff to cover the trap with and then blend it in with a few needles (very few).

Thanks for the link.

I have not gotten any traps out yet.

Talking to some local trappers they have been getting a solid goose egg this winter. I even let a fellow trap on my land. He has gotten no fur off my place.


I have been busy feeding cows and have not figured out a good way to make sets in foot deep crusty snow.


Is that possible? Do you have to switch to snares in deep snow?

Wish there was a tree out here! Pine tree would be even better.

When I got into it, in the 80's, I learned a lot from books and videos from Tom Miranda. I also learned a lot from a subscription to Fur-Fish-Game magazine and a subscription to The Trapper and Predator Caller...... Trapping animals isn't as hard as finding them sometimes.... an area can look great, but if there is nothing there, you will catch nothing. Being able to read sign will be your biggest asset. When animals are there and they are hungry, it gets easier. Muskrats are about the easiest.... seems like a lot of people cut their teeth on trapping muskrats, I did. When I would find a place that had a good population of them, I would actually check my traps every 6-8 hrs for the first day.... they are active little buggers, so why leave an animal in the trap for 18 hrs when you can get that trap working for you again.... Good luck. I hope you do well enough to keep your kids interested.

I'm no expert by any means but I would look for under fence crossings by coyotes and hang a snare there. Watch YouTube videos on how to do it correctly.

I got my shipment from MTP today. Pretty prompt service.


Got some waxed dirt, a hammer, swivels, trap anti freeze, and a 12 pack of Bridger No.3 dogless offsets.


I have some no.2 offset Dukes too.


Now that bird season is over....no one's expensive bird dogs around anymore....and it has slowed down some for me I think I can get started.

Snow backed off some too.

Going to start with some post sets and some hole sets. We saved a big ole bag of sheep dags that might make good stuffing for a hole set.



I already have some coyote piss, cable stakes, a sifter and some lure.

50lb bag of calcium chloride from the tire shop is all I used for anti freeze, don’t know what trap supply shops charge for a little bottle of the same stuff ..

Buckwheat hulls work good as a non freezing trap bed for bobcat and other critters that don’t require a solid bed.. I never could get a trap bedded solid enough to use the hulls on a fox or coyote set.

table salt works, too

For sure . My trapping pard claimed it had to be non iodized tho.. I never noticed that it mattered

Is that what trap anti freeze is? Calcium Chloride?

yep

I will be damned.


I am sitting on a flipping gold mine.

Must have 300 gallons sloshing about on the ranch.

I will be sure not to get any on my gloves.

Say, Charlie....you say I should worry more about waxing my traps instead of waiting for them to rust so I can dye them?


I have not come across much on waxing.....what are the reasons for it?

Jim, I'm not a trapper but I'd think waxing would keep the traps from freezing up during rainy weather. Maybe help with rust prevention.

It keeps em from rusting Jim.

I dye and wax in one step......boil the traps in dye for about an hour then throw a pound of wax in......when it melts it'll float on top....then just pull the traps out slowly...they'll come out with a nice coating of wax.

I dye the chain and swivels too but not the cable. Zip tie 3 or 4 together and dangle the cables over the side of the pot....it makes em easier to handle.

I use an old turkey fryer and cook about a dozen at a time.

Earth anchors with my own cables. It's a good idea to spot weld the S hooks and eyes on the swivels..

Wax protects the traps and keeps them operating smoothly. Without wax, the antifreeze would rust them badly, etc. Dye neutralizes rust and odors. Traps that have seen use and caught critters need to be cleaned first, the dyed, then waxed. But new traps just need to be cleaned of grease, then waxed. Unrusted steel won't hold a dye. It makes no sense to rust a new trap just so you can dye it....skip the dye and go straight to wax.

I agree with everything you say except this.
A neew trap will take on quit a bit of color.....especially if you use Walnut husks.....they'll darken up more the next year but if you dye and wax at the same time like I do it sure doesn't hurt anything to throw some dye is for a while.....dye's cheap.

And yea Jim.....you need to clean them first....the packing grease/oil is why they aren't rusting.
New or used I boil in baking soda before dying and waxing.

PS.....throw the soda in before boiling.....trust me on that....

I used to take them to the carwash and then toss them in the creek for a few days

I boiled them for about an hour in a turkey fryer. Water and baking soda.



Wife was pissed because I used all the soda.

FieldGrade
Does that style of anchor hold well?

Beats carrying stakes.

tag

They hold really well. You have to buy a rod to drive them in with and a puller (you can make em if you have a lathe and welder.). I use a pick to pull em with because I trap right out my back door but I wouldn't want to pack it around on a long line.

Got a trap in the ground! Finally!


Going back out to blast a porcupine and put out another.


I found a patch of bare ground that had lots of tracks around it.

Took a piece of gnarled wood to use for backing and put a couple little holes under it with my stake driver.


Put some Natures Call in the holes and some on the wood.


I am going to move over a bit and try a hole set.

A hole set is probably better on bare dirt?

This snowmobile has really improved my winter happiness.

I dye my traps with black walnut hulls. They come out nice and dark, and the dye doesn't wear off.

You have got to get your outside foot over right next to the out of bounds line (but not on or over it) or the player with the ball will just dribble right on by you. This seems simple, but it is difficult for most boys (and absolutely all girls) to understand and implement.

Jim, back in the early 70's, I started reading Fur Fish and Game magazine. WOW, was there a wealth of knowledge in those mags.

Not sure if they are around today. Stories from trappers each month from around the nation

Wonder if anyone ever scanned any of them and put them on the old interweb

Yep, they're still around

Fur Fish and Game Link <----------<<< Click Here




.

I pick up a copy when I find one.


Probably should just go ahead and subscribe.

Coming a little late to the party but....I used andy stoe's speed dip, you mix it with gas dip the traps and hang them up to dry. Super quick and easy and yes your traps smell like gas and no the animals don't care. Really good stuff. I make all dirt hole sets baited with meat and with two different gland lures in the hole as well. The important thing with k9 trapping is bed you traps firm if they feel it move at all they will dig it up. Make sure your trap cant freeze some guys use waxed dirt i use peat moss and non freezing fertilizer balls (cant remember the name). I started last year with my son and we had a blast. Watch lots of youtube videos, and remember to have fun.

I just bought a copy yesterday.. One of the few magazines I still buy!!!

Jim, fender washer anchors hold good and are much cheaper though the driver costs more than a plain steel rod. I have them on all of my dog proofs and cable restraints (we can only use lethal snares under water in MO.).
I made both my driver and a puller from scrap. With the puller almost all of the anchors can be pulled... I have had a very few that caught on a tree root or rock where the j-hook straightened out.

If you're going to use exposed bait at coyote sets I'd run my pan tension pretty high to avoid learning how to release the hawks and eagles that show up. If you lightly cover your bait with dirt, pine needles, leaves or what have you it will work just as well and not draw in the flying sight hunters and scavengers.

In a pinch, sifted anthill dirt can be used as a trap covering... it's not as good as waxed dirt in a long rainy period but does seem to have some water resistance.

I used to subscribe to a dozen hunting \ outdoor mags but feel most have gone down hill of the 3 mags I still subscribe to I think Fur, Fish and Game is the best!

Didn't read the whole thread, but...... The latest FF&G has an ad for the Montana Trappers Association hosting the 17th Annual National Trappers Association "Western Regional Trapping & Outdoor Expo" in Livingston, June 1-2. Road trip!

Not me.... Just a picture I found on the internet. But surely reminds me of myself back in 1978-1979. Including the badger.

Richard boy and I set a couple dog proofs after dinner.


Think we have a coon bothering.

We used cable stakes, cat food, Lennons, and fish oil.

Richard boy is very excited.

I had to deal with a Coon yesterday Jim. I thought about sending you the hide but I'm pretty sure it died of rabies.

Speaking of FF&G magazine...they actually printed a picture of me with a big ol Cat I caught about 6-7 years ago.

That's the closest I ever came to getting my fifteen minutes of fame......it turned out to only be about fifteen seconds though.

beautiful cat