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Originally Posted by mathman
Won't the tip of a soldering iron in little screw heads help when breaking Loctite adhesion?


Yup that's a handy trick if you need it. Although with blue (either 242 or 243) Loctite and scope mounting screws, you shouldn't need to do that unless they're really overtightened.

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Originally Posted by DakotaDeer
Can the nail polish work as a replacement for blue loctite on the threads as well?


That is what I use, and it works well.

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Originally Posted by Yondering
Great writeup, and good visuals on how everything is covered in oil from the factory.

Part of my profession is testing fasteners (meaning screws, bolts, nuts, threaded holes, etc) and I'd like to add one detail if I may: using blue 243 Loctite is better than blue 242, and here's why.
You won't get all the oil out of screw or hole threads with the methods described above, and #243 Loctite still cures correctly in the presence of oil. 242 does not, even though both are "blue loctite". There is no downside to using 243 in scope mounting.


I've taken to using green 680 Loctite under scope bases on bolt actions, mostly as a "belt and suspenders" thing. It has the added advantage of curing in up to .015" air gap, so it'll fill in minor misalignment between the base and receiver if necessary. It does require a little heat and a sharp impact to remove it so it's not appropriate in every situation.

Thanks for posting this.


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I have always wanted to know what the proper method was for mounting a scope. I now believe I know. I'm still gonna use duct tape, since it's cheap, but at least I know how to do it!!!! Thanks for the informative post.


Would you like to just keep explaining the problem or do you want the solution?
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Excellent post deserving of a sticky.

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Great post. One thing baffles me. The now typical rig consists of a $500+ rifle under a $500+ scope and you won't spend $60 on a good inch/lb torque wrench? Seems like the very definition of false economy.


I am continually astounded at how quickly people make up their minds on little evidence or none at all.
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Originally Posted by Itchy_Finger
I have always wanted to know what the proper method was for mounting a scope. I now believe I know. I'm still gonna use duct tape, since it's cheap, but at least I know how to do it!!!! Thanks for the informative post.



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j/k Thanks for the post..


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Originally Posted by Blacktailer
Great post. One thing baffles me. The now typical rig consists of a $500+ rifle under a $500+ scope and you won't spend $60 on a good inch/lb torque wrench? Seems like the very definition of false economy.

? Am betting there's plenty of torque wrenches around...


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Originally Posted by MtnBoomer
Originally Posted by Blacktailer
Great post. One thing baffles me. The now typical rig consists of a $500+ rifle under a $500+ scope and you won't spend $60 on a good inch/lb torque wrench? Seems like the very definition of false economy.

? Am betting there's plenty of torque wrenches around...

Yeah I would hope so but the "use the small end of the Allen wrench" or "not quite farmer tight" quotes have me worried. I would bet a fair amount of problems would be cured by using a torque wrench.


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Originally Posted by Blacktailer
Originally Posted by MtnBoomer
Originally Posted by Blacktailer
Great post. One thing baffles me. The now typical rig consists of a $500+ rifle under a $500+ scope and you won't spend $60 on a good inch/lb torque wrench? Seems like the very definition of false economy.

? Am betting there's plenty of torque wrenches around...

Yeah I would hope so but the "use the small end of the Allen wrench" or "not quite farmer tight" quotes have me worried. I would bet a fair amount of problems would be cured by using a torque wrench.

Non-issue. I believe he's just saying using the tool that way gets you about 18 in/lb - not indicating nor advocating that one NOT use a torque wrench. It was specifically written to torque them. Forms a great guy for writing this stuff up.


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Originally Posted by Formidilosus
Having sid that, I work at a place that fires a lot of ammo. I see over half a million rounds a year on average get fired. 90% of those rounds are tracked. Weapon zeros are checked nearly daily, scopes, mounts, rifles, ammo, etc, are being tested constantly. If a rifle has even a .5 MOA shift in zero we will see it almost immediately.


Just out of curiosity, what kind of place is this?

thanks,


Okie John


Originally Posted by Brad
If Montana had a standing army, a 270 Win with Federal Blue Box 130's would be the standard issue.
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Great post, and I truly appreciate the information.
Originally Posted by Formidilosus
Having sid that, I work at a place that fires a lot of ammo. I see over half a million rounds a year on average get fired. 90% of those rounds are tracked. Weapon zeros are checked nearly daily, scopes, mounts, rifles, ammo, etc, are being tested constantly. If a rifle has even a .5 MOA shift in zero we will see it almost immediately.

Just out of curiosity, what kind of place is this?

thanks,


Okie John


Originally Posted by Brad
If Montana had a standing army, a 270 Win with Federal Blue Box 130's would be the standard issue.
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Has this been made into a sticky yet?

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I'd assumed everyone knew to degrease new machined parts...

My own method:

a). De-grease everything, screws, holes, bases, scope.
b). Mount bases with JB Weld... While likely overkill, I think it's better than Blue Loctite, and provides a monolithic mount. (25 in lbs)
c). Lap Rings.
d). Mount scope in a thin layer of rubber cement.
e). Secure ring halves with Blue Loctite on screws. (20 in lbs)


I do like the idea of nail polish on the ring screws... that's a great idea and a new one to me, though I can't say I've ever found a need for it, it sure can't hurt. I think I'll pass the pink and go clear smile


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I usually use a layer of blue Loctite between scope bases and the action, and it usually works pretty well. That's exactly how I attached the NULA rings (which today are Talley Lightweights) to the first NULA we had, a .270 Winchester that Eileen used for many years until she started getting recoil headaches. After working up a very accurate load with 130 Partitions, the rifle stayed sighted-in for a decade, despite being bounced around in float planes, saddle scabbards, and even a small boat in the Arctic Ocean. Just before hunting season, whether it was started in Montana after antelope or up North after caribou, she'd take one shot from the bench at 100 yards. It would land dead-center, two inches high, and we'd go hunting. The only reason the rifle eventually lost zero is the scope went bad.

If for some reason I want the bases to REALLY stay solid I use Acra-Glas Gel. (Don't think it's works any better than JB Weld, but I have plenty on hand.) Two rifles with Acra-Glassed the bases are my standard scope-test rifle, a Heym .300 Winchester Magnum, and a Mark X Mauser .375 H&H. The .375's bases got epoxied partly because the 98 Mauser action was never really designed for scope bases, and when the bridge is contoured for them there's not much thread-contact for the screws.

But yes, a lot of the time what we think is a scope failing to hold zero is actually movement of the scope-mounts, usually the bases--understandable because they're held on by pretty dinky screws, even when 8-40's. Firmly connecting the bases to the action can really help.


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Thank God my Rugers don't have bases....


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Originally Posted by Brad
(sic)

I do like the idea of nail polish on the ring screws... that's a great idea and a new one to me, though I can't say I've ever found a need for it, it sure can't hurt. I think I'll pass the pink and go clear smile


Kinda tough to tell if the screws have loosened when using clear paint or nailpolish.

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Standard practice for fasteners in critical service in industry, air craft, automotive, etc.,


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On a hunting rifle, I will bed the bases with Devcon 10110 and I degrease first with my ultrasonic tank. I use green loctite on the screws and use a toothpick to put a drop of Gorilla glue inside the rings. I have never had one move with this method and don't have to use a torque wrench to get it tight enough. I only have one torque wrench that goes low enough and it is Torx type marketed by Warne so it doesn't fit everything. I torque stripe (inspector's laquer or tamper paste- whatever you want to call it) the trigger adjustment screws but not the scope screws. If you degrease them and use green loctite they won't move.


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I've been using the same bottle of clear nail polish on trigger adjustment screws since 1998. It's pretty clear, no pun intended, when the paint fails.


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I never use Loctite on the ring screws there seems to be enough spring in the rings. When I shoot the rifle the first time, I will check the ring screws after A number of rounds. Then snug them up, they stay tight after that. The bases I will degrease and Loctite.

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