Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Optics Scope mounting to maintain zero....

The last set of Leupold rings I bought about 3 weeks ago, everything was dry and the threads had just a dab(Just e nough) Loctite already on them.

where do you get that "Sinful Colors"

I raid the hot chicks stash.

Tag

If you read every post and understood them all, then you might realize you don't really need to put nail polish in ring cap screws.

These aren't the screws you are looking for.

How about the scope base screws? Getting closer...

The underside of the scope base mates with the top of the rifle receiver. The base screws clamp them together. The friction between the base and the receiver is what stands up to the recoil.

We want to maintain a high coefficient of friction in the crack.

The rifle receiver/ scope base mating surfaces must be protected from oil creeping in the crack.

What SHOULD you put in the crack? Not oil. Not KY, Not Vaseline......... epoxy, loctite, nail polish ok

Here you go. Sinful Colors Boom Boom is the perfect one for all firearms don't you think??

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IAEGEB...SL06C&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

RINGS...





If you use loc tite and torque them to spec you will over tighten them because it acts as a lubricant. Torque specs are always given in dry torque.

You can use green loctite or torque seal AFTER you have installed them. I choose to use the latter. SImilar to using nail polish but the product is actually designed just for this applications.


This is the brand I use
Cross check

What would the torque reduction be for blue Loctite as a lubricant? Looks like for many oils it's 30-40%, 35-45% for lithium grease, 45-55% for graphite? Where does Loctite fall in that viscosity spectrum?

Not long ago I was trying to clean some dried Loctite off a scope I had bought on eBay. I was worried that acetone would ruin the finish on my VX3i 3.5-10x40. I called Leupold and the support tech assured me that acetone is what they use to clean scopes. Who knew?

I use most of the clean and some of the glue methods above. Hot melt glue the screw heads flush to keep water out. On rings I use a feeler gauge to get the gaps equal before the final torque applied. As for rails I fit headless nylon rods to the clean receiver top, then apply Marine Tex. Then the base is gently lowered onto the alignment pins and a small flat weight is applied to the rail. Sometimes with release agent...sometimes I just glue it. At this stage of my life "lifetime warranty" and second guessing myself are getting less meaningful.

Very nice

Lapping rings not necessary?

Recently purchased my first really nice scope (Swarovski Z3) and decided to follow this guide to mount it on my Winchester 70 with Talley split rings. Suffice it to say I don't think it's ever going to shift! Appreciate the detailed instructions, thanks for posting @Formidilosus.

Good write up

THANK YOU FORMIDILOSUS

I started to use this method not long ago.
I have not had one issue since doing it this way.

Best
Heavy

Great information guys!

That is a very thorough and useful post, thanks.

I don't know how necessary it is but I always lapp the rings with a Wheeler kit. It appears to be a good thing. (?). The only one that appeared to be not require lapping was one Tikka.

Thanks again for taking the time to contribute this excellent post.

Brian