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I looked at their website, but it looks like they just sell powder coating equipment, is that what you meant? Or do they sell powder too?
With the method described in this thread, there is no need for any special powder coating equipment.

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Late to the discussion but I’ll throw in my experience. I’ve tried a few methods of coating and baking. Settled on a cheap vibratory tumbler for coating. Other methods worked, but the tumbler is the most consistent for me. Tumble for a few minutes. Dump into a mesh strainer. Shake excess back into bowl and continue on.

HF powder works. Astetically, the red is best. The others work but are blotchy in appearance. Not to say they clump, just that the final product does not look uniform. No problems loading or shooting them. White, yellow and black are ugly but they shoot fine. Two coats help some, not worth it to me though.

Eastwood powder works too. I’ve had great success with a few of their blues and grays. Still experimenting.

For curing I use a toaster oven. 20 min at 400 deg. Checked temp with other devices and the dial is close enough. Mesh trays are ok for the bullets. I’ve never had a problem just spreading them out and baking. Lately though I’ve been standing the coated bullets up on the trays with a layer of parchment paper underneath. I do this using latex gloves which does not disturb the coating much if at all. Bullets fall right off after cooling. No flaws.

Sizing is done with Lee push through dies. Very easy.

Still learning. Like it very much so far and so do my pistols!

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Originally Posted by ring3
Dump into a mesh strainer. Shake excess back into bowl and continue on.


Have you tried shaking by hand (in the right container) with more bullets and less powder? Too much powder is counterproductive. If you need to sift off any powder, it's too much for my method; less is more.

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When I started powder coating I used various tubs. Mostly left over food containers. These worked satisfactorily most of the time but occasionally not enough powder stuck to the bullets. I’d then try another container, sometimes with improved results sometimes not. Tried the plastic BBs, didn’t help and were a pain. I do not know the reason but often wondered if weather conditions effected the ability of the contents to generate enough static.

One day While cleaning, casting and coating I noticed the vibratory tumbler bowl was plastic. Figured why not. Dumped out the media, wiped it out added some powder and bullets and switched it on. In less than 5 min bullets were nicely coated. Been using it ever since (got a new one for brass duties). I will say the time it takes for a nice even coat varies. Sometimes 5 mi, sometimes 15. I don’t know why and have not studied too much on the subject. Could be the weather or possibly the different powders. Not really concerned so doubt I’ll ever know for sure. I do know it works for me and has for thousands of bullets the last year or so.

You pointed out what I do is counterproductive. Donno about that but if it’s an extra step from your method I’ll agree. Takes me about 30 sec to dump powdered bullets into large kitchen strainer, shake a few times, pour excess powder back into tumbler, add bullets and start again. Usually I am multi-tasking while powder coating so while a batch is tumbling another is getting ready for the oven.

Seems to me powder coating is somewhat new to casting. Methods and tweeks still being developed. We now have molds being produced without grease grooves for those who coat. I find more and more coated bullets in the berms when gathering scrap. While I haven’t sold any of my lube sizers yet they are sure getting dusty.

Thanks for taking the time to share your methods. Pics are gone from your posts but I think I get the idea.

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To be clear, using too much powder is counterproductive; it prevents a good coating when shaking by hand. If you prefer tumbling, use what works, just commenting on what I've discovered.

At some point I'll go through and update the pics. I've posted this in multiple places around the web, so lots of links to fix!

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Interesting stuff. To much powder in the container is likely my problem also. Makes more of a mess too.

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I look forward to your updated pics. Thanks again for your efforts.

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Yondering,

I have read many threads on powder coating. Yours is the easiest to read and understand. So my big question is: Do I use cast bullet load data or jacketed bullet load data?

Does anyone have a good load for powder coated 350 grain 45-70?

My best accuracy is from a 405 grain round flat nose (Lee mold! $22!) using 50.6 grains of Varget over a Federal large rifle primer. This was from the Lyman manual.


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Thanks, I'm glad the info was helpful.

Use cast bullet data; I haven't found any need to change loads between lubed cast and powdercoated cast bullets in my testing.

I've used the various Lee 458 bullets too, but not in 45/70 so I don't have load data, sorry. I used them in 458 Win Mag and in big bore revolvers (sized down to .453").

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Looking forward to the new pics.


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I've been powder coating for a little over a year now using the shake an bake method and some cheap plastic neckless beads, I've used the black airsoft beads as well an cant really tell much difference in the end result.

Here are a few examples.

NOE Lyman 358156 Clone in Yellow Green an Carolina Blue
[Linked Image]

NOE 220 gr. HP's in OD Green
[Linked Image]




Last edited by res45; 12/20/17.

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Very nice. How do they shoot? Any leading at your velocities?


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I didn't get any leading with the bullets before I started PC'ing them so leading was never a problem, I just like the powder coat for long-term storage over traditional types of lube. The Lyman clone has always shot well for me in my Ruger BH, the 45 bullets is a new mold for me it cast HP's, cup points or FN bullets depending on which pins I install in the mold.

I've been shooting the Lee 200 grs. SWC bullet out of my Hi-Point carbine PC'ed at a little over 1K fps. haven't chronoed the HP or Cup points but I'm sure they are fairly close to the same velocity. I had to make a slight POA adjustment visually to compensate for the slight drop of the heavier bullet but once I did that they all fell into place at about 30 yds.

[img]https://i.imgur.com/of1HS3y.jpg?2[/img]


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I've read through this thread with a lot of interest. I've done hardly any cast bullet loading for the past 2 years, and haven't cast a bullet in 3... but I've unpacked all my gear and am getting ready for some major casting this coming week after that long hiatus. I was really struggling with the prospect of getting my bullets lubed and sized, then stumbled on the PC'ing concept and decided to see what folks have to say here on the 'Fire. BTW, it will be almost all handgun bullets in .45, .44, and .9mm calibers.

Turns out that was a good idea... the "brain trust" of Youtube bullet powder coaters were not a lot of help. Lots of talk, talk, talk, for little information. That's the problem with Youtube... it can be great, and it can suck the big one.

Anyways. I've decided to try powder-coating my bullets instead of messing with my lubes again. I have both RCBS and Lee sizing equipment, so sizing after PC'ing with the Lee gear is all set to go. I've commandeered the old toaster oven out of the garage. All I need now is powders.

Which brings up my question: what advice do y'all have on best powders for handgun bullets at this time? A lot of time has passed since the start of this thread. I've been reading/hearing a lot about Eastwood powders, have looked at PBTP's website, and have learned to avoid Harbor Freight. Is there any new info out there that y'all haven't posted in here yet? Looking to save some time and/or money.


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I've done the PBTB- at $16 I thought it was steep; and knocking on powder coating businesses and begging for scraps.

The PBTP for $16 worked wonderfully and now I use the scrap powder as filler for low velocity pistols rounds, mostly 38 spc and 45acp. That is me being cheap but I have to realized that I spend $32 a pound on gunpowder so why not half that on coating that will cover thousands of bullets?

I have so far mainly checked for reliability and leading. I have no problems if I size them before loading. I have not had any leading at all, to include 44 rem mag through a 94 Winchester and 45-70 through a 1895 Marlin. I am delighted with rifles as there is no leading, good velocities and, if I do my part, decent accuracy. My lack of accuracy cannot be pinpointed to any one thing other than I am still learning this game.

I am using Yondering's method of swirling the bullets and powder around in a 3 gallon plastic paint bucket for 30 seconds in each direction. I pour them onto a perforated baking sheet (thanks to a buddy in a sheet metal shop) which is placed on top of another plastic paint bucket, therefore saving and excess powder. NB: I have the hoarder version of OCD. This method worked great on low humidity days. I have had very bad coating sessions when it is raining outside the open garage door. Moisture is not your friend when applying the powder.

Have fun and keep us posted. Load some 45-70 for Roger and have him test it for you- he will love it.

Last edited by Ranger_Green; 02/11/18.

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Thanks, RG. Good tips.

What color powders are you using from PBTP? BTW, I agree that the cost of powder is trivial compared to the other costs of handloading...


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I used a grey and a black from the same series of powders that Yondering used (RAL 6018 Yellow Green). I did not like the look of the green. I recently got the green anyway and found that it coats even better and easier than the grey. The grey is great, though, and the black is fine.
I have seen any difference in performance with my pistol calibers. I have not shot enough of the green through rifles yet to make a sound decision, but so far it acts great. One example is I used the green for a 405 45-70 hollow base at 30 grains of 3031 and it shot to point of aim at fifty yards. I used 46.1 grains of 4198 on a plain base 405 grain bullet and it kicked like my ex-wife but put three rounds into two inches, but 7 inches higher, at fifty rounds. All this with no leading. Note with the 4198, the higher charge for the load, the tighter the group. I am cautious about pushing it any faster, and my shoulder chimes in on this, but I am delighted with the powder coating results.

Rereading the thread I might try the plastic pellets to get even more static electricity. I tried once but since I had hollow points from NOE molds it was a pain to separate them from the bullets.

PS: Thank God for spell check.


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John Haviland has an article on powder coating in February's Handloader. His results imply that a single coat on a pistol round will give slightly better groups than traditionally lubed rounds. But it also implies that TWO coats will open up the groups.

I have always used two coats but that was only to ensure complete coverage of the lead, as I hate leading. I do not have enough data about one coat versus multiple coats to make an informed decision. But I have had no leading and have taken several pigs with no problems. I will continue to refine the techniques and watch for tips here. From Yondering to HawkI and Gnoahh and Scott F, there are a lot of great guys here willing to share real knowledge and experience.


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Thanks, RG. I'm supposed to call Scott tomorrow to discuss his experiences. I will let him carry the ball from there.


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Just a quick update, boys...

I bought 4 colors from PBTP: red, blue, black, and white. I'm using the swirl-with-paintball-pellets method, using some of my wife's discarded plastic storage ware. So far I've been very impressed. I've coated various shapes of .358, .429, and .452 diameter bullets, and fired a bunch of 'em through my guns. I'm not sure I'm saving any time vs lubing my bullets, but they're a helluva lot easier to store than lubed bullets (just throw 'em in a bin and forget 'em), and they definitely prevent ANY leading in ANY of the firearms I've used so far.

Swirling for 2-3 minutes (timed by the clock) produces a nice, even coat on my handgun bullets with Red, Black, and Blue powder. The white powder isn't as good. I pick the bullets out of the powder with forceps and place them on the baking tray by hand, which is slower than pouring them willy-nilly, I guess, but I like the product and the bullets don't stick together. I've been using baker's parchment paper rather than non-stick foil, since that's what my wife had in the kitchen.

I'll get around to posting pics of bullets here in a bit.


"I'm gonna have to science the schit out of this." Mark Watney, Sol 59, Mars
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