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sigguy Offline OP
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I recently picked up a 1953 Featherweight that is in fine shape, other than a stock that has most of the original finish worn off. Does anyone have a preferred method in refinishing these stocks? What is a good stain to use? I'd like to keep the the original color and finish as much as possible.

Thanks

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I have done two pre'64 stocks using Timberluxe stain and finish, I'm well pleased with both. Check out Timberluxe's website, they have a video tutorial that leads you through the complete process. I also like GB Linspeed finish for an original look, it is easy to use and pretty much goof proof. The thing to keep in mind with Linspeed is that "less is more", apply sparingly and hand rub till your hand feels hot. Set aside and do not apply more until the finish is completely dry, if in doubt give an extra day drying time. Complete with an application of Rennaissance wax buffed with a microfiber cloth.

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Thanks. I'll check out the videos on the Timberluxe site. Without having watched the the videos, in pictures the finish looks pretty glossy on both the Timberluxe and GB Linspeed sites. Can you get a more matte finish using these products?

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The gloss depends on how many coats you apply, you can also control the gloss by applying with the abraisive material that looks like screen. I use 320 grit to apply the finish and finish rubbing in with the palm of my hand. The Linspeed needs to be rubbed in until your had feels warm and the finish nearly dry, small finger dunks spread really thin are the key with this finish.

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Timberluxe +1

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I use Pilkington's Pre '64 Brown Stain and finish with thinned hand rubbed coats of Helmsman Spar Varnish..

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use a wet cloth and iron to raise dents. sand as little wood as possible. use as mild a finish remover as it takes to remove old varnish, be careful with the checkering recut if need be or pay somebody to do it. pre 64s have a red brown finish like what Pilkington sells

There are some good tutorials on here and other places to help you with this.


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sigguy Offline OP
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Any recommendations on the mild finish remover? Most of the clear lacquer is already gone.

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Originally Posted by sigguy
Any recommendations on the mild finish remover? Most of the clear lacquer is already gone.

It's been a while since I done one. but I bet Lacquer thinner will work on that rifle. You may need a plastic scraper or drywall sanding screen for a difficult areas. be careful not to cut into the wood when it's wet. also when sanding use a backer or you may sand a depression. citrus type strippers will work to. If the old varnish is real flaky you may be able to carefully scrape it off without using chemicals and little sanding. but you again have to be careful not to qouge out or cut the wood.


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I have used 3M Safe Stripper, clean off what remains with a Scotch Brite pad and acetone.

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Ok - thanks guys. It looks like Pilkington's Pre '64 Brown Stain is out of stock at Brownells.

I think I may get the Safe Stripper and then try the Timberluxe or maybe the Galazans product.

One more question - is there any way to try to make the original finish look more presentable without "refinishing" the stock? The stock is not beat up, it just has the lacquer flaking off (maybe 70% of the stock no longer has lacquer on it. As you can tell, I am not a wood refinishing expert by a long shot - just trying to see what options I have to make it look better.

Last edited by sigguy; 11/08/17.
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Birchwood Casey stock sheen and conditioner works good for cutting down on the gloss once finished.


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0000 Steelwool also works to cut sheen, also smooths out hand rubbed oil finishes! Go for it! , blow off fibers and hand rub with micro fiber cloth! Tape off checkering with blue tape , if you get any in the border of the checkering , let it dry for a week and re-cut border with a border checkering tool! Good luck!


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No matter if I use Timberluxe of Linspeed I always complete the job by applying a good past wax (Johnson's of Renaissance) using 0000 steel wool as an applicator pad. Just let the steel wool float lightly over the cured finish, let the wax form a haze and buff with a micro-fiber cloth.

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No matter if I use Timberluxe or Linspeed I always complete the job by applying a good past wax (Johnson's or Renaissance) using 0000 steel wool as an applicator pad. Just let the steel wool float lightly over the cured finish, let the wax form a haze and buff with a micro-fiber cloth.

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As I remember brownells has the reddish stain that looks correct..
Personally i use good old true oil....just like the look much better...

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I wound up using Jasco stripper, then a very light touch of 0000 steel wool to get the old finish off, and then applied 5 coats of Dem-Bart stock oil. Finishing it off, I used a light application of Briwax. The goal was to have a stock that looked as close to original as possible. I have used Tru-Oil in the past, and do like that for harder use guns. It gives a nice, clear, strong finish.

I'll try to get some pictures up over the weekend.

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Can't wait to see it. I bet it looks a hundred times better.


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sigguy Offline OP
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I appreciate all of the suggestions. Here is the result.

Before:
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

After
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

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Looks great! the before pics look like maybe more than 50% of the finish had flaked off.
That featherweight has the low comb stock you don't see those too often.
Again a nice even finish looks good!
If your going to hunt with it especially since you live in Washington state you may want to seal the wood in the barrel channel, in the action inletting and under the butt plate to keep out the moisture and make the wood stable if you didn't already.


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