I don't have that XP but have one a size or two smaller and it has been and is a great saw. Light weight, good power and great chain speed. XPs are the way to go.
The 550XP is also one bad ass saw and in a smaller package. It will have better ergos, be lighter weight, have more power and be better on fuel than your 51.
Originally Posted by 16penny
If you put Taco Bell sauce in your ramen noodles it tastes just like poverty
Husqvarna may restrict their dealers from internet sales. They used to. Then didn't. Then did again. I'm sure someone will ship you one. Check your PMs.
Originally Posted by 16penny
If you put Taco Bell sauce in your ramen noodles it tastes just like poverty
XP is the sign for huskies pro saws. You get a faster, lightef, more powerful saw. Also one built to be more durable. If you know chainsaws, keep it sharp and reasonably well maintained it is well worth the money. If you don't know chitt about machines, you will never notice.
Sam, I would guess you will like that saw. Husky does not sell the pro line through box stores or the web normally. Only dealers.
If you buy any Husky, they tune the carbs to run rich from the factory. This is to help break-in. Run a gallon or three of fuel through the thing, then lean it out, or get a shop to.
Parents who say they have good kids..Usually don't!
Sam, the XP line is heavy duty enough that you could get away with ordering a smaller saw and still be in good shape. I have a 346XP and it does everything I need it to. I rarely pull the Rancher 61 from the shed anymore.
[i][/i]Baileys is good to deal with, buy most of my stuff from their specials.
Sam, I like to spend other people's money. Go by weight, not any other numbers. Buy a pro saw, and if you are happy with the weight of that 51, buy similar weight. I have always run pro saws, an thing else sucks if you have been around. I like the biggest saw that is comfortable to run, too big and you get dangerous when tired. I find small saws deagerous, I will not use the anti-kickback chains, they suck, and small saws can get jumpy and kick back really quick. Of course I also like to keep the raker short. Kind of self induced problem, I guess.
Anyways, you will only cry when you buy. When you have the bar buried in a big tree, and white chips are flying 10 feet, you will want to kiss me.
I am just down the road in Havre, drop by.
Parents who say they have good kids..Usually don't!
Stihl MS 362, pro model, 20 inch bar, 3/8 chain, available at any farm/ranch store or farmers co-op, WAY cheaper than the Husky, 60 cc, will cut ten to twenty cord of wood for more years than you will want to.
Stihl MS 311, farm/ranch model, 20 inch bar, 3/8 chain, 59 cc, available anywhere, even cheaper than the pro model, heavier than pro model, less horsepower than pro model.
I have the 310, predecessor to the 311. Never a hiccup in 16 yrs. Just upgraded it to a 24 inch bar. But if I were to work with anything bigger than 14 inch loggs, I'd run full skip chain. I used half skip on the 20 inch bar. Can not buy anything but Stihl chain around here anymore.
Just some alternatives. Good luck on your purchase, which ever you choose.
People who choose to brew up their own storms bitch loudest about the rain.
Stihl MS 362, pro model, 20 inch bar, 3/8 chain, available at any farm/ranch store or farmers co-op, WAY cheaper than the Husky, 60 cc, will cut ten to twenty cord of wood for more years than you will want to.
Stihl MS 311, farm/ranch model, 20 inch bar, 3/8 chain, 59 cc, available anywhere, even cheaper than the pro model, heavier than pro model, less horsepower than pro model.
I have the 310, predecessor to the 311. Never a hiccup in 16 yrs. Just upgraded it to a 24 inch bar. But if I were to work with anything bigger than 14 inch loggs, I'd run full skip chain. I used half skip on the 20 inch bar. Can not buy anything but Stihl chain around here anymore.
Just some alternatives. Good luck on your purchase, which ever you choose.
If you have to run skip or half skip on 14" wood your saw is grossly underpowered. A 562 will pull full comp 20" bar all day long, even in hard maple and oak, let alone the gopher wood we have here in MT.
Okay, I am refering to my farm/ranch saw. And yes, it is a little under powered when burying the bar in a thirty inch maple with regular chain. With full skip, it hums right along and does anything i ask it to, albeit not as fast as a pro saw.
But I am not a pro, I do not have pro needs, and I really don't move all that fast anymore, myself.
For those with need for a more pwerful saw, I mentioned the model MS362.
People who choose to brew up their own storms bitch loudest about the rain.
The 562XP will be lighter, more powerful, and more money.
My dad's 455 Rancher has been dead nuts reliable, starts hot or cold, idles hot or cold, has spent it's entire life bouncing around in his 1952 jeep at 9200ft altitude--which often weeds out the crappy saws.
Casey
Not being married to any particular political party sure makes it a lot easier to look at the world more objectively... Having said that, MAGA.
For 50cc or 70cc saws, the 550XP or 372XP, for 60cc saw, the MS362.
The 60cc and 70cc saws are a lot of chainsaw. Really more for if you're going to be doing a lot of cutting. Although those stringy azz cottonwoods can be tough cutting..........
The 50cc saws are a lot easier on the back.
Go with the best dealer, that's more important than the Husky vs Stihl argument.
Casey
Not being married to any particular political party sure makes it a lot easier to look at the world more objectively... Having said that, MAGA.
Stihl ms362, 13.2 lb and 4.69 hp Husky 562xp 13.9 lb and 4.7 hp
Just factory specs from a web page. I do not know how torque and power curves compare. The Husky may well outcut the Stihl. Perhaps someone has run them both and can tell us.
People who choose to brew up their own storms bitch loudest about the rain.
The 562 is just an "angry" saw. When I logged I ran Stihl ms 440's and Husky 372's. Honestly unless the wood is real big a 562 will cut right with them. When I had my 562 I took down a 40" red oak with it using a 24" bar with full compliment chain.
The 562 is just an "angry" saw. When I logged I ran Stihl ms 440's and Husky 372's. Honestly unless the wood is real big a 562 will cut right with them. When I had my 562 I took down a 40" red oak with it using a 24" bar with full compliment chain.
The 562 is just an "angry" saw. When I logged I ran Stihl ms 440's and Husky 372's. Honestly unless the wood is real big a 562 will cut right with them. When I had my 562 I took down a 40" red oak with it using a 24" bar with full compliment chain.
The 562 is just an "angry" saw. When I logged I ran Stihl ms 440's and Husky 372's. Honestly unless the wood is real big a 562 will cut right with them. When I had my 562 I took down a 40" red oak with it using a 24" bar with full compliment chain.
Stihl ms362, 13.2 lb and 4.69 hp Husky 562xp 13.9 lb and 4.7 hp
Just factory specs from a web page. I do not know how torque and power curves compare. The Husky may well outcut the Stihl. Perhaps someone has run them both and can tell us.
Thank you all for the good advice. It appears the 562xp is more saw than I want or need and the 550xp would be about perfect.
Unless you need something light, you will never have more saw than you need. Weight is the only reason to buy smaller. And $$$. I love running saws, it's in my blood, running a good saw is like holding a high dollar shotgun, and enjoying the skill it took to make it.
Parents who say they have good kids..Usually don't!
I have a 550XP. I won't buy anything other than a pro model saw. The price difference is worth it with better power to weight ratio's and ergonomics. I did a muffler modification on mine and it has great power. I just cut a cord of oak on Friday and I smiled the whole time.
The only thing I don't like about the 550XP is that it's a miser on bar oil. That seems to be the case with all new saws as they try to make them as environmentally friendly as possible. I cut mainly standing dead-dry oak and typically use a 16" bar on my 550XP. Even with the short bar and the oiler turned to it's highest setting, there's barely enough oil to keep the bar from turning color from getting too hot. I only use Husky bar oil too.
Can you drill out the oil passage to get more on the bar?
That doesn't change the volume as you are still bottle necked by the pumps output. On certain saws you can put a higher out put oiler o them or the oiler off a larger saw. I can't see the need as you must guys wont even approach burning up a bar up from lack of oil. It would be better to fixate on keeping your chain sharp. Dull chains are very hard on bars, chains and just about every other part of the saw.
I have had a XP at least 18 years, its still running, I cut 4-6 good sized trees up per year, the rancher is a POS I tried to use one at as part of a clean up crew earlier this year, the chain would not stay tight, brand new saw. I have one stihl and it stihl don't run right.
I have a 550XP. I won't buy anything other than a pro model saw. The price difference is worth it with better power to weight ratio's and ergonomics. I did a muffler modification on mine and it has great power. I just cut a cord of oak on Friday and I smiled the whole time.
The only thing I don't like about the 550XP is that it's a miser on bar oil. That seems to be the case with all new saws as they try to make them as environmentally friendly as possible. I cut mainly standing dead-dry oak and typically use a 16" bar on my 550XP. Even with the short bar and the oiler turned to it's highest setting, there's barely enough oil to keep the bar from turning color from getting too hot. I only use Husky bar oil too.
I bought mine on-line.
One other thing I'll add. Make sure you follow the exact starting procedure (shown on a little graphic on the saw handle) for a cold and hot saw. These new saws are a little more finicky with starting and require a very precise sequence otherwise you'll be tugging the cord and cursing.
Kings, I just looked at the e-mailed invoice and it shows that $50 was already discounted so I'm not exactly sure.
Guy on the phone said that I could send in the rebate later so maybe they have a $50 store discount as well?
$499.94 was charged to my card and I'm good with that, another $50 off would be icing on the cake.
As for the weak bar oil I read a review on Baileys and a guy was having similar issues with a 562.
Wonderful saw (5 Star) Perhaps over 400 hrs. on it. A number of times chain/bar stopped getting oil, got dry, hot and would jump off bar. I always keep oil reservoir full. Long story short the oil cap has a plastic Y and short string that keeps it from getting lost when opened. At times the oil pick up ball gets hung up on the plastic Y when locked down not allowing the ball to follow oil level, Thus no oil to Bar/chain. Easy fix: Remove Y from tank, Cut off string from cap and discard. No more oil problems.
I was all set to get a 562, went to the local shop and the dealer sold me on the 550 as for my use the lighter weight of the 550 is worth is over the added power of the 562. I'll have to order one from Baileys as the local shop was over $600 for the 550. If you look up muffler mods for the 550 it really wakes up the saw, timed cuts are 30% faster. The only bummer with the 550 is I'm set up with 3/8" chains and husky large stud bars. Not a big deal to change out the clutch to take 3/8" chains.
I was all set to get a 562, went to the local shop and the dealer sold me on the 550 as for my use the lighter weight of the 550 is worth is over the added power of the 562. I'll have to order one from Baileys as the local shop was over $600 for the 550. If you look up muffler mods for the 550 it really wakes up the saw, timed cuts are 30% faster. The only bummer with the 550 is I'm set up with 3/8" chains and husky large stud bars. Not a big deal to change out the clutch to take 3/8" chains.
Changing a sprocket takes less than a minute with the only tool needed being your Scrench.
UPS just left......chit is about to get real........grin
Town and Country.
I was actually reading about the muff mods and the power gains sound great but also rarely wear earplugs. Leave the baffles intact and drill another exit hole/lift the exit up a little?
I'm gonna leave as is for now and see how it works.
I was just messing around with some downed cottonwoods. Picking around trying to find sections that weren't punky.
Here's a question for the saw guys.
If the pitch and length of chain is correct, does the number of drive links matter?
I guess I'm having trouble understanding how the same length chain with the same pitch can have more drive links. I was under the assumption that the pitch was the distance between links?
Be gentle...
Trying to figure out if can run the same chain on this 550XP and 51.
I have Husky SP33G and H30-80 chain for the 550XP(those should be compatible?). Both .325 pitch", both 80 DL.
The 51 has been getting Oregon H78 which is the same pitch but is 78 DL whereas the above mentioned chain is 80 DL.
I do realize that I would have to buy a kerf bar for the 51 but I am not sure about drive sprockets matching up.
Husky's are awesome. I have a few. My NE 346XP is the older version of your 550XP. It runs like a raped ape. I use to run a 16" bar & chain on it then switched to a 18" bar & chain. Didn't notice much difference. I did it mainly for added reach then anything else. For thicker wood I use my 365 with 20/24" bar & chain.
Don't be afraid to wear chaps. My grandpa cut his leg clear off running a chainsaw back in '69. If it could happen to him it can happen to anyone. Chainsaws are one of the most dangerous hand held tools out there. As quick as the snap of the fingers things can go sideways.
Good luck, NYH1.
Take nothing I say personal, remember....it's just the interweb!
Husky's are awesome. I have a few. My NE 346XP is the older version of your 550XP. It runs like a raped ape. I use to run a 16" bar & chain on it then switched to a 18" bar & chain. Didn't notice much difference. I did it mainly for added reach then anything else. For thicker wood I use my 365 with 20/24" bar & chain.
Don't be afraid to wear chaps. My grandpa cut his leg clear off running a chainsaw back in '69. If it could happen to him it can happen to anyone. Chainsaws are one of the most dangerous hand held tools out there. As quick as the snap of the fingers things can go sideways.
Good luck, NYH1.
The only people who wear chaps are Pros and people who just got out of the ER..........
Never ran an auto tune, but what I have heard is, you need to read and follow the manual. The starting procedure is a little weird, and if you mess it up, the saw doesn't know how to tune itself.
Parents who say they have good kids..Usually don't!
Well fellas, I ran another tank through it this morning. Held it wide open for a few minutes while slicing up a 24" cottonwood and then backed off. It maintained an idle for maybe 1 second.....
Cut some more and ran it 'normal' and it would idle for 3-5 seconds and die.
It starts cold on 3-4 pulls, restarts on 1-2 pulls, runs absolutely great but will NOT idle to save it's life.
Did some more sleuthing around on the internet and found out about the secret screw(hidden under a brass plug).
Just backed it out 1/4 turn and did a quick test on the drive way but no luck...
Wow that sucks. Might want to go down to your local dealers and let them check it out. Being brand new it's under warranty. Or try going over to Arboristsite.com. A ton of chainsaw info over there.
NYH1.
Take nothing I say personal, remember....it's just the interweb!
NYH1, I actually just registered and posted about the issue on Arboristsite.
I had done some reading there earlier and those guys are into saws like we are into rifles!
Our local dealer isn't really a saw shop, just the local co-op with a couple Rancher models on the shelf. I kinda felt like a dick for ordering but they didn't have the 550XP.
If anything I will have to send it back to Baileys. I'm sure now that I fiddled with it they won't want to work on it but we will see.
Ran 50:1 with non-ethanol 91 octane.
It wants to idle, record might be 10 seconds, so frustrating not being able to tweak it, damn computers!
I had a similar problem with a new Mercury outboard Sam. Warranty work got purring like a kitten. Like the queen's hemorrhoids before, and it took a day's time.
These premises insured by a Sheltie in Training ,--- and Cooey.o "May the Good Lord take a likin' to you"
Sam, there's a guys on Arboristsite that go's by Spike60. He's a Husky/Jonny Red (same saws different color and bar angles) wizard, got a dealership down in the Catskills. He's helped me out before. Maybe send him a PM.
Good luck, NYH1.
Take nothing I say personal, remember....it's just the interweb!
Sam, there's a guys on Arboristsite that go's by Spike60. He's a Husky/Jonny Red (same saws different color and bar angles) wizard, got a dealership down in the Catskills. He's helped me out before. Maybe send him a PM.
Good luck, NYH1.
Yup. Good guy. Throws a Hell of a GTG.
I sent a text to another guy who Ports there. If he knows the answer he'll post.
He's needle scaling a trailer today I think so it may be later.
Dillon, it whistled through about 20-25 cuts. I gotta go load that stuff up....
Here's an update and then I will quit boring you guys.
This morning I tried it again, same deal, idled for a few seconds and died. I cut around for maybe 20 minutes until I hit a piece of wire the was embedded in an ash tree. Rather than sharpen the chain I replaced it.
Fired the saw back up and cut for another 10 minutes, I'd baby the throttle in between cuts just enough to keep the saw running. Got done with the log I was cutting and the saw kept idling. What the hell?!
It kept idling for over a minute(until I hit the kill switch), nice smooth sound.
I couldn't believe it. Retested 3-4 times and it kept running and idling just fine.
Let the saw sit for awhile and tested again, works great.
Evidently the Autotune finally decided to tune in.
The 550XP is also one bad ass saw and in a smaller package. It will have better ergos, be lighter weight, have more power and be better on fuel than your 51.
I have a 550XP ported and love it. Nice lightweight package.
https://imgur.com/kMeAwcI Been running this Husky 266XP for 35 years, It has been a great saw. Also bought a Stihl 441 magnum, its only about 5 yrs old, ignition went out a couple years ago, not too happy about that, but cuts good when it ran.
When I rebuilt my Husky 181 I ported it and removed the base gasket to bump up the compression. While I appreciated the added revs from the porting, the added compression made for a saw that was a mofo to start. I realized there is a point at which useability beats out raw power and put the base gasket back in to drop the comp.
Glad it settled in for you Sam. Your story made me google the problems some have had. watching some of the hard start videos, I wondered how many have become airborne. Then I saw your post on Flaves thread.
Parents who say they have good kids..Usually don't!
Think it's the 2266 Jonesered that's the same as the 362 xp after a muffler mod. I wanted a 362 but proximity to a dealer was a pain and I was in a hurry. I bought the slightly smaller Jonesered (think 52cc) and cut hard oak and maple for about 16 hours straight the next day. Never a hiccup and when the safety chain wore I threw a full on but by then I only had two trees left. I then rebuilt a two story railroad tie retaining wall. It ate a few blades but otherwise not a hiccup. The Jonesered is a red Husqvarna for a few hundred less.
Think it's the 2266 Jonesered that's the same as the 362 xp after a muffler mod. I wanted a 362 but proximity to a dealer was a pain and I was in a hurry. I bought the slightly smaller Jonesered (think 52cc) and cut hard oak and maple for about 16 hours straight the next day. Never a hiccup and when the safety chain wore I threw a full on but by then I only had two trees left. I then rebuilt a two story railroad tie retaining wall. It ate a few blades but otherwise not a hiccup. The Jonesered is a red Husqvarna for a few hundred less.
Jonsered makes a good saw. But, just like Husky's, they have different grades. Pro, semi, and cheap. I have 2 of the semi's. They work really well, as does my Husky.
When I picked mine up I was reading on the Logging forums and they all said Jonesered is the same as Husqvarna it's just their off brand. The 2266 (iirc) is the 362 xp. It has a slightly different muffler but that's it. There are a few threads on modding them to be the same. I went one grade down and think it was in the 650 range price wise. The 2266 was 850 ish and the Husky was 200 more than that. I tried CL etc. got used Husky or Stihls but nothing I could trust. My Neighbor clear cut a stand of massive Oak for his house and rather than wait 2 weeks for the Logging company to pick up the load he wanted it gone. Put a free firewood sign up and it was chainsaw madness over there. Finally after a week I bought the Jonesered and went over and cut. I made it worth it and living next door with a Supersuty made moving it easy. I just finished stacking it Wed. Going to put an insert into a massive old fireplace to save on electric. Running 2 Keystokers on coal, 2 heat pumps, and the rest of the rooms on those baseboard electric deals and my utilities may hit 1k or more a month this winter. Thankfully the Coal stoves throw some serious heat and coal is next to free. Our place used to be a church retreat so even the lower basement has 18' ceilings. Sliders on 3 levels don't help either.
The Jonny Red 2266 and a Husky 365 are the same (70.7 cc, 4.7 HP). The Jonny Red 2260 and Husky 362XP are the same (59.8cc, 4.7 HP). All are outstanding pro built saws.
The 2266/365 are 2272/372XP with restrictors in the intake ports that can be replaced or ground down and the power will be increased to the same as the 2272/372XP (great saws). The 2260/362XP are lighter more nimble and maybe even more versatile saws for someone that only wants one saw.
NYH1.
Take nothing I say personal, remember....it's just the interweb!
The 550XP is also one bad ass saw and in a smaller package. It will have better ergos, be lighter weight, have more power and be better on fuel than your 51.
I have a 550XP ported and love it. Nice lightweight package.
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