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I haven't looked at how the Coda breaks down.

For the Excalibur - mine anyway - the limbs and center limb bracket could be unscrewed from the end of the barrel (stock) in in one piece, with no issues that I found.

You, as the owner, could de-string the limbs on the Excalibur, and then remove the limbs if you needed to.

I un-strung limbs, then just pulled the whole "bow" off for long term storage, and shipping.

I hunt on mules.

So I want one that comes apart, and more importantly reassembles quickly......even when elk are whistling!

Looks like the Excalibur is a one bolt wonder. As it self aligns as you tighten.....the Koda needs two with perfect snap in allinghment. Not the best when experiencing " bull fever!"

I bought an Excalibur SE this year and hunted with it a couple of times this week. It is easy and quiet to remove the quiver in the stand making it pretty comfortable to hold in the stand for a few hours. It is light compared to others I used years ago. It is plenty accurate for the distance I will shoot at game.You can't shoot at the same dot practicing or you will break the bolts hitting them together. The bolt retention tab that holds the bolt in place is solid and a nocked bolt stays in place which I like for hunting. The one negative is the supplied scope does not have an illuminated reticle. And the scope on it blacks out before I'm ready to quit hunting in the afternoon.I will be upgrading that before next season.

See if this guy will ship

https://nmi.craigslist.org/spo/d/vortex-by-excalibur-cross-bow/6470327731.html

Excaliburs are very good, but above my wallet. I have two crossbows, a Barnett Demon. And a Horton. They both hit thier targets well. The Barnett is a take down model, as the bow separates from the stock with one hand bolt.

Edit: last recurve crossbow I owned was a Barnett RX-280, and NO commercially available hard case would fit it. I had to build a hard case for it.

As per a suggestion from one of our members here, I picked up an Excaliber Ibex, and have never looked back. Very good bow for the money. I'm looking to upgrade the scope. It's functional, but I want a better piece of glass on it, and I'm sure the bow will shoot tighter groups.

If you want tighter groups you gonna need spine indexed arrows, not necessarily another scope. Of course it couldn't hurt tho..I use spine indexed Spynal Tapp arrows from Southshore archery supply in my Tenpoint FX4. Tremendous arrows......

I haven't heard of this before. Could you please explain what spine indexed arrows are? Thanks for the suggestion.

It is a process where they turn the arrow finding the "weak" and "strong" side of each arrow. They mark the arrow so that the cock feather can be placed in the same relationship to the strong side of each arrow. This helps assure that when the arrow is shot, the flexing that occurs is in the same plane/relationship for each arrow, resulting in more uniform accuracy.

Somebody else can likely explain better, but basically it is setting up each arrow as close as possible to the others in the group. They can also be weight sorted so that total weight stays within a certain range to help accuracy.

at hunting ranges (35 or so yards and under), these are probably overkill as most set ups will give accurate enough results for hunting.

A cheap way of indexing is to find the arrows that don't group with the rest, turn nock so that a different vane becomes the cock vane and shoot. If arrow shoots to the group, mark that vane and use it that way. If not, try the other vane.

joe6555 is right. It is a process where the "stiff" side is identified, marked and then fletched between the hen vanes on crossbows. The idea of turning nocks will work but as mentioned it will result in a different cock vane. That could cause a problem if loaded with limited light.

Also, overkill was mentioned. There's no such thing as too much accuracy.

Very true, but for the guy not wanting to spend a great deal on equipment until/if the crossbow bug hits hard, the extra cost of spine indexed, weight sorted arrows may not seem justified. By the time you buy the arrow and add a quality broadhead, you can easily be looking at $15 a pop. Lighted nocks and other goodies can push the price over $20 pretty quick.
Lots of rifle hunters out there seem satisfied with a budget priced rifle shooting the cheapest factory ammunition they can find. While I reload and strive for accuracy out of my rifles, I can't begrudge those who are only interested in hunting and do not want to spend the money to find/develop the best load for their rifle. In time, many will decide to try to find a better shooting combination, but others will remain happy with what they have. JMOYMV

No one ever said accuracy was cheap..Im just giving options to those that want more than mediocracy. www.tapp-nation.com