Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Custom Rifles & Wildcats Custom rifle cost

Its like anything else, if the action is not true, then it needs trued. If it is straight, then it doesn't need trued. People just assume it needs it when rebarreling a gun. Start with something like a tikka or sako and it probably doesn't need it.

Unfortunately even Tikka's and Sakos aren't the holy grail, you'll have a much higher percentage of a shooter with actions such as Defiance, Borden, Surgeon and Big Horn.... sure you'll spend a little more!

Start off with a Kimber Montana and hitting a low weight is easy....BTDT

If your going to use a Remmy and want it done right. Ask your smith these 2 questions and if he can't answer them and doesn't do that then find another smith because it won't be done right. 1. Are you going to time the action for primary extraction with a stainless handle once your done truing it 2. Will you check and see if I have too much cock on close and if so will you time the ignition. If he can't do those two things he is not a gunsmith, he's just a damn machinist. Never have a factory pot metal handle threaded, you can get a stainless ptg handle already threaded and tigged on for less money.

I personally love all of my Sako rifles, SPECIFICALLY the 75 series and that stock design. Best eve hunting stock IMO. They all consistently shoot better than any custom I've owned. I think the stock design of the Sako hunter stock just fits me better.....I've had Borden, Stiller and "trued 700's and the Sako's always perform better......stock design. I've used other stocks on any custom I've build or bought. I do have a fieldcraft now and it shoots very well. I waiting on a 7-08 from my builder and we'll see how it shoots. "Trued" 700 ADL in 7-08 in a Manners EH8. Hart #3 fluted. Tim trigger. Should be pretty slick.


I may never build another rifle after this one. If it wasn't for the Sako mounting system...that's the only rifles I'd probably buy.

Jim Kobe has made me several customs on 700 actions and also some Sako actions.

Here is what we did-
Used SS action in most cases
I used factory bottom metal (and sometimes after market)
Blueprint the action ( worth it? Hard to say)
I had custom bolt knobs installed, but passed on barrel fluting. Did get some bolts fluted, (total cosmetic issue)
Lilja or Shilen barrel (contour has big bearing on gun weight)
I tended to longer barrels, 26” or more on magnums or others that burn a lot of powder, like the 220 swift.
McMillan stock ( I have some McSwirleys and some solid colors. If you are weight conscious, McMillan makes a very light stock. (Had one but sold the gun)
Glass bed the action
I stayed with factory triggers set at 2.75-3#..

These custom attributes works for me. You may like different things. Do what makes you happy, it’s your money and gun. I think these cost me $1500-1700.

This my be true but if you can afford it and want to do it, go for it. You can’t take it with you and it might bring you years of enjoyment.

458 has good advice, that being said whatever caliber your thinking about my advice also is make sure whatever you choose has the correct mag box length if you wanna shoot heavy high B.C.bullets and the reamer has the correct freebore or smith is willing to throat. Also neck dia. There's nothing I hate more than not being able to get to the lands or having to seat a bullet deep in a case chewing up case capacity.

Take what you have and call GA Precision and also Jon Beanland. Use whichever one you feel more comfortable with. Neither of them will steer you wrong and you won’t lose too much value if you need to sell the rifle (as compared to a less well known builder).