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I have gotten a bunch of requests to write up a "how to" for the SWFA Milquad reticle. It is the 6x42mm SS with MQ reticle in the pictures, however the process and use is the same as long as you have a scope who's reticle matches the turret adjustments- mil/mil or MOA/MOA. Mil/mil has some advantages, but the system works regardless.



The set up-
[Linked Image]


Tikka T3 SL in 223
SWFA SS 6x42mm MQ
Pic base and rings
Blackhills 5.56mm 77gr SMKs


Also a Leupold Mark4 12-40x60mm spotter with H32 reticle. This is not necessary but really helpful.


The target after bore sighting. Dot is 1.5". Target is at 100 yards.
[Linked Image]

Understand that the reticle is broken down into .5 mils. Every tick mark is .5 mil, with a bigger tick at each whole mil. The turret adjusts in .1 mil increments. Don't get freaked out by mils- it's just a measuring tape. We will not be thinking in inches at all and instead will use the reticle as a ruler.

Then because it's a known rifle I fire one round. If it were a new or unknown rifle I would go ahead and get a ten (10) round group out as long as it's on paper.

First round.
[Linked Image]




It's easy to see through the scope, but it doesn't show when taking a picture through it so I placed a 1/2" dot over the hole so it shows up.
[Linked Image]


Now place the reticle back on the target and "read" the ruler.
[Linked Image]


It's literally telling you what to adjust. Just break the reticle down visually into tenths.

In this case- "down 1.7 and right 1.5" mils.



If you move the reticle up and bisect the bullet hole and aiming point like this it's even easier to see-
[Linked Image]

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The easiest is to have a spotter with a mil reticle in it.
[Linked Image]



So you adjust "down 1.7 and right 1.5" mils. Fire another shot-
[Linked Image]

Closer look-
[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

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Now fire nine more to confirm-

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]


[Linked Image]


From the reticle and target, dial- left .1mil to center the group. Loosen turret screws, lift off, spin and align with the "0" indicator mark.
[Linked Image]




Zeroing is done. No mental gymnastics, no fuss, no conversions, no weirdness. Think only in mils. Break it down into tenths visually and do not try to convert it to something else. See where the impact is with the reticle, adjust what it says, and done. Firing a statistically significant amount of rounds to see the true center of the group is important as you can easily be off .2 mil with a "1 moa all day" long rifle if you "zero" off of 3 shot groups.

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Now how do you take a zeroed rifle and use those turrets and that reticle?



You need a dope card or drop card that tells you how much to adjust for a given range.

We used to have to hang targets at every 100 yard line and walk our rounds into the target, note the required adjustments, and move to the next. With the advent of accurate ballistic solvers you no longer need to do that. You can use the ballistic program to "true" your data. If you know the real BC of the bullet you can true the velocity, or if you know the real muzzle velocity you can true the BC for an unknown bullet. In general chronographs are the weakest link and I would default to velocity calibration.

It's pretty easy to find accurate BC's for most bullets by selecting the bullets with "Litz" next to them in the ballistic program as those have been tested and verified by Applied Ballistics and Bryan Litz. While it is improving, manufacturers love to inflate their BC numbers.


The best way to true is to shoot a target as close to transonic speed as possible- as close to 1,340fps as you can. If you can't get that far, then do it as far as possible. If you input all the variables correctly scope height, BC, range, weather, etc. the outcome will be VERY accurate data out to the range that you trued.

For a target I use a piece of steel with a waterline across the middle (this one is set at 600). The goal is to get your rounds splitting the line. This allows you to true your velocity by manipulating the app.
[Linked Image]





You need a good app. There are quite a few good ones, but in this case I use Shooter on an IPhone. It's simple and provides good data. Regardless of what app you use, you follow the same general steps.

First build the rifle profile. Measure and input accurate data with regards to sigh height. I've named the gun, input the barrel twist, sight height, and set everything to mils, and 1/10th graduations-
[Linked Image]



Then I go to "Ammo" hit the "+" sign, and a screen pops up. Select "from bullet library" as I know the bullet I am using will be in there.
[Linked Image]




A "bullet diameter" screen pop up. Select your bullet diameter- for this one ".224".
[Linked Image]

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Scroll down to "Sierra" and "77gr Matchking (Litz). Select it and choose "G7" as it's a more accurate reflection of the bullet.
[Linked Image]


Next this screen pops up. You can change the name or leave it. Put in your actual muzzle velocity or what you guess it to be. You'll notice most everything was populated but the MZ Velocity, zero range and environmental data (atmospherics). I used a weather meter to get actual, but if you don't have one get as close as you can to the actual. I also set the zero range for "100 yards".

Now I know what this ammo will do as I see about 300k rounds of it shot a year, but I threw a random number of "3,000fps" in there to show the process.
[Linked Image]




Save it, and then select the bullet from the menu, and put In your target range "600" and hit "calculate" in the upper right hand corner and a drop chart is produced-
[Linked Image]




Ignore everything but the "path mils" column. At 600 it says I need "up- 3.5mil" in elevation to hit. Dial it into the scope-
[Linked Image]




Make a wind call (while I was hanging the target I checked the wind. 5-6mph full value).
[Linked Image]

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Good pics and write up.

I love my milquads. Zeroing a rifle is a breeze now that I can measure with the reticle and the scope tracks.


"The trouble ain't that there is too many fools, but that lightening ain't distributed right." - Mark Twain
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I am not concerned with getting a prefect wind call, just getting it on target or close enough that I can see the bullet trace and splash. Also remove parallax if able. Even a little bit can screw your data up.
[Linked Image]



I decide to hold right edge of target and fire a round. It strikes just off the left edge and low. Using the reticle I see that I need to come "up .5" and hold a total of "right .7" mils.

Dial "up .5 and hold right .7" mils.
[Linked Image]


The result is a hit on the water line. I fire four more rounds to confirm-
[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

I can see in the reticle that I am ".1 mil" low from splitting the waterline. Final elevation needs to be "4.1 mils" to center.

Go in the upper right hand of the screen and hit the box with the arrow in it. This pops up-
[Linked Image]

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Select "velocity calibration".

This screen will appear. It will let you input multiple ranges and the actual adjustments needed to hit center. I used one range so put "600" for distance and "4.1" for the adjusted.
[Linked Image]



Go to the bottom and hit "calculate". The "trued" muzzle velocity will appear. Then hit "use MV". The system backward calculates the true muzzle velocity and changes your settings. Now the drop card reflects what you actually needed to hit- i.e. It has been "trued".
[Linked Image]


You can do this without the shortcut by manually changing the MV until the projected drop matches your actual.



After this we're done. The gun is zeroed and the ballistic program is trued out to 600 yards. It will now give you good data for all ranges 600 and in. I didn't hear, but you want to true if possible as close to transonic as you can. It gives you the best data. In all this remember- garbage in, garbage out. Input good data.












P.S. You'll note that there are no extra holes, no "whoopsies", no "flyers", no nonsense. Solid rifles, solid ammo, and solid optics with matching reticle and turrets is the easiest and simplest to use system that you can buy.

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Thanks form..finally got a few mil scopes from swfa this sale instead of my usual MOA and will be referencing this post.


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She's gone shootin..
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Great info, clear and consice.
That is certainly the most intuitive lesson I have ever seen on the subject, well done and thank you.

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Just a quick question.
When inputting the gun data into shooter why is the correction factor for wind and elevation 1.0 instead of zero?

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Sorry disregard that question, I gather it means corrections are in units of 1 Mil.

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Good write up. Thank you for taking the time to explain! I need to check out the phone app. I've been doing it on my laptop, phone seems much easier.


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Very nice.

Using the dots to measure is much easier than trying to hold the rifle steady while moving the aiming point to the POI, because there's always some wiggle error (not to mention the trouble caused by erectors that don't move, then do).


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Thanks.

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As others have said, very good write up and photos. You have made it much more understandable and I thank you for your efforts.


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1. Never tell everything that you know.
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Originally Posted by Formidilosus
... In general chronographs are the weakest link and I would default to velocity calibration. ...


Does your experience lump in a three screen Oehler with the ubiquitous compact models?

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Very good write up, thank you!

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No problem fellas. Hope it helps.





Originally Posted by Castle_Rock
Sorry disregard that question, I gather it means corrections are in units of 1 Mil.



Correct.



Originally Posted by mathman
Originally Posted by Formidilosus
... In general chronographs are the weakest link and I would default to velocity calibration. ...


Does your experience lump in a three screen Oehler with the ubiquitous compact models?


Oehler's are good. MagnetoSpeed's are good, Lab Radars can be good. I'm sure that you know but most of the commercial Chronos are garbage.

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Great post, thanks so much for taking time to put it together... Rick oughta make it a sticky..

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