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Originally Posted by Sitka deer
Originally Posted by gunzo
Can RIT powdered clothing dye in black be used to darken JB weld, or other grayish epoxies?


Possibly, but may not be very light stable... especially when a little candle soot will give a very nice black, cheaply and easily, while making the epoxy stronger and harder.


Serious question - how do you collect candle soot to add to the epoxy? I've previously used black liquid dye.

Unrelated - one of these days I'm going to resurrect that old 'Photo Milling' thread you helped me with to show some stock building progress. If I ever find time between family, work and chores, that is.

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Originally Posted by PaulNZ
Originally Posted by Sitka deer
Originally Posted by gunzo
Can RIT powdered clothing dye in black be used to darken JB weld, or other grayish epoxies?


Possibly, but may not be very light stable... especially when a little candle soot will give a very nice black, cheaply and easily, while making the epoxy stronger and harder.


Serious question - how do you collect candle soot to add to the epoxy? I've previously used black liquid dye.

Unrelated - one of these days I'm going to resurrect that old 'Photo Milling' thread you helped me with to show some stock building progress. If I ever find time between family, work and chores, that is.


Extremely basic process! Run a lit candle under a piece of metal (steel usually) close enough to impinge on the flames, but not close enough to hit the metal with the wick (it might leave some wax on the metal) until a thin layer has been built. Scrape it off with a knife edge into your epoxy and stir it in...

It takes very little to get epoxy very black.


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Of course the proof is in how it shoots but it looks OK to me. I took it apart at 10 hours. Screws came out no problem. I had them sprayed and dipped in shoe polish. The action came out with just a little pulling. I taped the bottom of the lug, front, and sides and that tape stayed in the lug recess and didn't stay on the lug itself, but I removed it with a small screw driver. Clean up was minimal. I ended up with the Marine Tex excess from the lug bedding may 3/4" front and back of the lug. Hope to shoot it this weekend.

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Originally Posted by huntabsarokee
Of course the proof is in how it shoots but it looks OK to me. I took it apart at 10 hours. Screws came out no problem. I had them sprayed and dipped in shoe polish. The action came out with just a little pulling. I taped the bottom of the lug, front, and sides and that tape stayed in the lug recess and didn't stay on the lug itself, but I removed it with a small screw driver. Clean up was minimal. I ended up with the Marine Tex excess from the lug bedding may 3/4" front and back of the lug. Hope to shoot it this weekend.


It is not something visible to the naked eye.

Stressing the action is surprisingly easy to do. I would rebed before wasting ammo/components.

Last edited by Sitka deer; 01/08/18. Reason: Frigging autocorrect!

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Originally Posted by Sitka deer
Originally Posted by huntabsarokee
Of course the proof is in how it shoots but it looks OK to me. I took it apart at 10 hours. Screws came out no problem. I had them sprayed and dipped in shoe polish. The action came out with just a little pulling. I taped the bottom of the lug, front, and sides and that tape stayed in the lug recess and didn't stay on the lug itself, but I removed it with a small screw driver. Clean up was minimal. I ended up with the Marine Tex excess from the lug bedding may 3/4" front and back of the lug. Hope to shoot it this weekend.


It is not something visible to the naked eye.

Stressing the action is surprisingly easy to do. I would rebed before wasting ammo/components.


Since I am not a gunsmith I take it you can stress and action by using the action screws but not by fastening the action to the stock using tape or surgical tubing? If I rebed I assume I need to try and remove most of the existing bedding? Could I remove some and then add to it? My plan is going to shoot it as is. If it doesn't shoot any better I will try and repeat the process. Not trying to make a bench gun just a 2" gun to a 1". Thanks for the pointers.

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Tight is a relative term but it is very easy to flex an action with action screws. Putting a run-out indicator on a barrel while bedding shows it to be quite easy.

Taking off a small bit of bedding and just skim bedding is probably good enough. Action screws can be used as reference pins, just do not torque them.

There is much disagreement about taping the recoil lug. I can easily see how an action can move in the stock under recoil and have seen many obvious cases. That said, the idea of taping anything other than the bottom of the lug makes no sense.


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With Deacon you have to go by their rules........but been using it for 45 years.......I go by the rules.

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