Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Rifles best mounts for a NXS on a Montana??

Either will work fine as long as you torque them properly. You're overthinking it.

I use Talley's on two rifles with NXS scopes and TPS rings / Burris Tactical two-piece on the others. If you want even mo' bombproof (and added mounting flexibility), go with the rail and NF lightweight rings (or any number of other bombproof rings).

We're all just very happy to see you've finally landed on a potential scope choice.

Anything for you bro.LOL

I have Warne two piece bases, and Warne Mountain Tech rings on my Montana with a LRHS scope and couldn't be happier. It kind of splits the difference between Talley and a Pic rail and rings.

It's ALMOST as light as the Talleys, but in theory matches the strength of the Pic rial/rings combo with less weight/size.

I think you'd be quite pleased with that combo as well.

Dave

Jordan, how is cheek weld on the Barrett and the 7wsm? Looks like you could throw a cat under the objective end?

The rifle is a 7mm-08 Montana.

Jordan,
Did those Warne bases require much opening for the Burris XTR rings? I might can get access to a mill. Could you have used lows on that 7-08 Montana and cleared bolt and objective?

The rifle is a 7mm-08 Montana.

Cheek weld on the 7WSM is great. The Barrett is more of a mid-chin weld, but is usable. I've since added a stock pack/cheek riser to the Barrett and cheek weld is improved. I was hoping to get away without the stock pack, but no such luck. I'll take the added weight for the extra optical system integrity.

The bases took about 20 minutes of careful hand filing on the rear of the slot, per ring. A mil would make short work of that job, for sure, but is unnecessary. If I had a mil, I'd probably use it, though.

Burris doesn't make the XTR Sig in Low, but the rifle used to wear 30mm Talley LW Low's with that scope, and everything cleared. I'm very happy with the current setup. The rings have about 20-30 MOA of inclination in the inserts in that pic (can't remember exactly how much).

Jordan, from my perspective those both look really high.

That was my next question , especially the Barrett. I was wondering if you'd tried a stock pack or cheek riser of some flavor. Talley lows are perfect for me as far as fit, and snap shooting, bringing the rifle to the shoulder quick on jumped game. Have extra lows on my 223, and bolt clears ocular, objective clears barrel with a vari-xII 3-9 but the stock hits way high cheek. Talley Lows are perfection, for me. My montana's aren't relegated to long range shooting though, so max elevation adjustment is of little concern. For that matter, I've never thrown my rifle like a frisbee, ran over it with a tractor, used it as a club, dropped it off a cliff or out the window of a Jeep, so obsessing over nuclear hardened scope mounting has never been a huge concern either. My talley's split/crack I'll buy another set to replace them. Don't tell anybody, but two of the deer presently in my freezer fell to 140gr Sierra gamekings out of my 10 year olds 7-08 and the third fell to a 240gr Hornady xtp out of a front stuffer.

I didn't know the signatures only came in medium. I've used the XTR's without the inserts in low but never used the signatures. Yea,no contact with the rear of the slot so if there's not a lot of filing,I see where the mill wouldn't be necessary.

I hear you. Difference strokes for different folks, but I've spent enough time and ammo chasing rifle problems, only to find out they were scope/mount problems, that these days I want all my rifles wearing scopes and mounting systems that are as bullet-proof as possible. Less worry and messing around, is what I'm after.

I admit to preferring a mount height low enough to accommodate a solid cheek weld on the stock. Increased mounting heights result in a jawbone or pterygoid muscle weld. In my experience a cheek weld is more comfortable and consistent. While adding a stock pack helps, I prefer not having one on a sporter, lightweight or otherwise. There’s definitely more than one way to skin this cat.

Definitely looks like the Warne two piece bases allow lower mounting than a one piece rail.

Ranch hand doesn't make a bumper to fit a Ford Mustang either.

Anyone used the Seekins lows on a Montana 84m with a rail? Think there would be plenty of room for a 42mm Nightforce NXS? I know rails and rings are typically pretty high and the Seekins are the lowest I can find so far.

Definitely looks like the Warne two piece bases allow lower mounting than a one piece rail.

I admit to preferring a mount height low enough to accommodate a solid cheek weld on the stock. Increased mounting heights result in a jawbone or masseter muscle weld. In my experience a cheek weld is more comfortable and consistent. While adding a stock pack helps, I prefer not having one on a sporter, lightweight or otherwise. There’s definitely more than one way to skin this cat.

We're lucky to get a 300 yd shot. Normally 150yds and under. Shots you would take without hesitation, I would/could never consider. Definitely appreciate and respect the time and commitment involved to develop the skill set that allows that. Always enjoy your informative posts. First hand experience as opposed to all the regurgitated hear say you see so much of on here.Thanks for your time Jordan.

Yes, I have on a 8400 with no problem.

Anyone used the Seekins lows on a Montana 84m with a rail? Think there would be plenty of room for a 42mm Nightforce NXS? I know rails and rings are typically pretty high and the Seekins are the lowest I can find so far.

Honestly, I'm not one of those people that finds cheek weld height to be super critical.

I guess I wasn't real clear. I was hoping someone with more experience than me might give me a ring option that would be a good height for the 42mm NXS considering I chose the medium Talley lightweights over the lows,or tell me if the low NF light weight rings would be about right,too high or whatever.

RH,

Here are a couple of pictures I snapped of my set-up last night. These are "medium" Mountain Tech rings btw. I tired the "low" rings and while they JUST cleared the barrel on the objective end, but the bolt handle was hitting the eye-piece on the back end. I suspect that is a function of the Talley two piece bases sitting considerably lower than most pic rails.





Maybe the eyepiece is smaller on the Nightforce than the LRHS and will allow you to run the lows. If so, I suspect scope caps will be out of the equation.

Dave

Thank you......me either......

I don't have a set of Warne bases on hand to compare, but based on memory I'd wager that the Kimber two-piece picatinny bases are indeed taller. I have no issue/problem with the bolt clearing the LRHS ocular. I even took it off the 8400 and mounted to the 84M, and again, no issues.

Another option (one which I haven't gotten around to) is to do what Stick did. Take a one-piece picatinny rail and cut out the center portion and smooth up the cut edges.

Jordan,

Any/what reason for not using a one piece rail on Your Kimbers in the above pictures?

Thanks,

Jerry

Jordan,

Any/what reason for not using a one piece rail on Your Kimbers in the above pictures?

Thanks,

Jerry

I have one piece rails now on all but just 2 rifles now. Just simpler when I want to do scope rodeo and such and really no down side aside from a couple fractions of an oz. Loading and unloading is certainly not an issue here for me with a one piece rail. Granted its not an NXS on there so maybe that part would be different. Though putting the SHV 3-10 or NXS 2.5-10 I would be well under 7 pounds, but for this rifle I am ok being at just under 7.25 pounds. If I want to go lighter I have other options.

Just off the top of my head, I’ve had EGW, Talley, USO, NF, Weaver, etc, pic rails. They all fit and functioned just fine, but my preference, just for peace of mind, is a rail with an integral recoil lug.

Jordan,I've heard of a recoil lug in picatinny rails but I don't understand how it works. I guess I've never seen one.

Jordan,I've heard of a recoil lug in picatinny rails but I don't understand how it works. I guess I've never seen one.

Off the top of my head...

These rails have recoil lugs (M700 applications):
Seekins
NF
Badger Maximized
TPS XP
Precision Armament
Xtrema Hardcore Gear
Near

No Lug:
LaRue
McCann
Warne Mountain Tech
Warne
Talley

I am going to mount a Nightforce NXS 2.5-10X42 on my Kimber Montana. I've been debating with myself whether I should use Talley Lightweights or go with a Picatinny rail and rings. The whole purpose of the NF is to eliminate any possible scope issues ,so I'm leaning toward a good rail and ring set up. How it looks is way down on the list but I don't mind cutting down on unnecessary weight or bulk if I'm not sacrificing dependability. I've not used a lot of rail and rings before so I would appreciate some suggestions of what would be best.

Right now I'm thinking of ordering either the Nightforce or Talley picatinny rail and some Nightforce light weight rings. I would go with the Burris extreme tactical signature rings but I was concerned that the extra width might limit my mounting adjustment on the short action.

Right now I use Talley lightweights with a 1" scope in mediums because the height of the mediums align with my eye better than the lows. I'm willing to consider any other ring options though if there is something better ,or that will fit the set up better.

Yes,I know it will add considerable weight to the Montana but I'm tired of wondering if I'm having scope problems or something else. I've been chasing my tail with this rifle,sometimes shooting one hole groups and sometimes 3" groups,and sometimes one hole groups to different POI without a scope adjustment or ammo change on the same day. Formidilosus has been generous enough to loan me a NF NXS to try the reticle and see how I like it on this rifle. If I like it,I'll order one. At least I'll know if I'm having some other issues other than scope and mounts. If the NF doesn't get me sorted out,I'm either going to rebarrel the Montana or get a Fieldcraft but I think I'm done with light weight unreliable scopes.

I would greatly appreciate any suggestions on mounts,and even pictures of your set up if you have something similar to what I am wanting.

It beats remembering what a Kimber Montana is, and does best, here... it's a featherweight HUNTING RIFLE.

Even if a rail system gave some incremental improvement in group size (compared to Talley LW's) on a 20-lb match rifle, can YOU actually use that extra precision shooting a Kimber Montana? Be honest with yourself. I've put a shïtload of rounds through my 7 WSM Montana and as much as I love the rifle, there are just some limits with such a light rifle and a mere mortal behind the trigger.

That's what I mean by don't overthink this. Talley LW's are a great setup in my experience: are simple, are strong, are very light, and cheap! And I seriously doubt they'll limit anybody in any meaningful way compared to a rail. But the rail setup will cost a lot more, weigh a lot more, and basically goober-up a fine featherweight rifle... for no real reason IMHO IME.

Talley LW all the way.

Agreed Jeff, but remember, those aren’t “tacticool”.. a guy really needs @ 20 oz scope and I-beam mounts to support it. Those 500 yard shots are demanding.

Agreed Jeff, but remember, those aren’t “tacticool”.. a guy really needs @ 20 oz scope and I-beam mounts to support it. Those 500 yard shots are demanding.

Interesting. I’ve had at least 25 pairs. Never an issue. But I do lap them, and use a torque wrench.

Nah to add that stuff to get up to that 7-7.25 pound you have mentioned you prefer as well.

Of course I can get by with lesser scope and have for years. Problem is now that I have used scopes that don't require a couple adjustment click everytime I check "zero" its hard to go back to the ones that do. Epsecially when I always have those other rifles that are lighter if needed.

I do have like 4-5 pairs of Kimber Talley's of various sizes if anyone want to buy them. $30 each shipped....some 30mm some 1", some black, some silver, some lows, some mediums.

I've had a bunch of them, only the 2 cracked. I don't lap and only use 2 fingers on the short end of the wrench to tighten alternating screws so there is a chance I over-tightened...but nothing else has ever failed and the same technique is used. That rifle lived (still lives) a hard life as it lives in an ATV boot and is used/carried/driven every day. The DNZ mounts which replaced the LW's are still good.

I actually prefer dots, as they're a "set and forget" proposition. However, I certainly "get" wanting a scope that tracks perfectly, like the NF. For what I do a light Leupold with a CDS is fine. Yes I do prefer a 7 - 7.25lb rifle, but I don't like the weight sitting on top. I prefer it out front in the barrel, not awkwardly perched on top in the middle of the rifle like Dolly Parton and her bolt-on's. And of course, a lighter scope really negates the need for heavy mounts. A 20 oz scope up high is subject to a lot more forces than a 12 oz one and for sure it's smart to use a more stout mount.

We all find our way to the same end differently for sure... use what you wish, go forth and slay beasts. This is all fun and games anyway, and if it isn't then psychoanalysis is in order.