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In another thred, RH Clark recommended Red DMT for sharpening a knife.

Is this a diamond whet stone ?

Not sure I'm understanding this right, but would like to purchase a "better" stone, than the Japanese water stones I've been using for years.

The water stone wears off quickly and has to be replaced frequently, although it does work well, with a steel to finish.

I sharpen by hand, and want the BEST "stone" I can get.

Diamonds sound like the best alternative.... Maybe ?

Thanks! Virgil B.

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yes

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The Reds are equivalent to a 220 grit stone. Green are like the hard Arkansas stones.

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Thanks for the information !

Now the search begins to find one of these locally.

We have a wood working shop that carries the Japanese water stones.

I'll check with them on the red DMT stone.

Virgil B.

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They have double sided red and green from DMT.

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Buck also makes a red(medium) diamond stone

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Yes sir, I think the red DMT is the best general purpose. You can add a strop loaded with green compound if you want a more polished edge. A stropped edge will be sharper but smoother and will dull a bit quicker. I prefer the DMT brand over any others in the diamond sharpeners. In my experience the DMT stones that have the diamonds embedded in a perforated plate on the plastic base last longer than the DMT's that have the diamonds embedded in a flat piece of steel. The colored DMT's will shed grit initially but will settle in after a bit and stay the same after that initial grit loss. At least mine have for about 15 years.

I like waterstones and think they do a great job. The difference is that you will never have to flatten a DMT,or soak it,and it will last a whole lot longer. The DMT will clean up with just soap and water and you can use it either wet or dry but if you want to wet it you just splash a little water on it and you are ready to go.

DMT makes some nice larger double sided stones but I'm cheap and just buy the 6" model that works for everything including my 10" knives.

IMHO a real good sharpening set up would be a red DMT, a green compound loaded strop, a traditional steel from Dexter Russell, and as fine-smooth of a ceramic rod as you can find. The steel is important because most times when a knife gets dull you don't need to sharpen it. It just needs a few strokes on the steel to bring the edge back to hair popping sharp. It's my opinion that most people sharpen their knives way too much and actually wear them into a thicker portion of the grind causing them to require even more frequent sharpening. I bet even my kitchen knives that get used nearly every day are only sharpened a half dozen times a year. Most steels that you can buy at places like Walmart aren't worth buying. The DR is an inexpensive steel that is fairly good quality.

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Wood Crafters in town had the red DMT in stock, in the 6" size I wanted.

$51.50 out the door.

I sharpened a few kitchen knifes with it last night and was VERY impressed!

I've got a Hinkles steel that I use to finish, and in combo with this Diamond stone works GREAT!

Thanks again for the information ! Thia is the greatest stone I've ever used !

Virgil B.

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Originally Posted by vbshootinrange

Wood Crafters in town had the red DMT in stock, in the 6" size I wanted.

$51.50 out the door.

I sharpened a few kitchen knifes with it last night and was VERY impressed!

I've got a Hinkles steel that I use to finish, and in combo with this Diamond stone works GREAT!

Thanks again for the information ! Thia is the greatest stone I've ever used !

Virgil B.


I think I paid $40 for my last one but it will literally last a lifetime if you don't let it stay wet and rust. Really glad you like the stone.

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My local Home Depot has the fine (red) 6 inch DMT's for $29.99. Wish I would have seen this thread sooner and could have perhaps saved the OP some money.....but if anyone else wants one HD either has it or can order it for you and you can pick it up at your local store.

Right now I am doing a rehab on a rental property and HD has been my second home. The DMT was in the tool section. I checked it out and was amazed at how light it is. It is just a little plastic box with a strip of diamond impregnated metal....not really a "stone" in the normal sense. I thought it would be great for guys that want a "field sharpener" because I would think it would be easier to use than one of those fold up jobs, still weighs nothing, can be used dry or with just water. With that stone, a Buck knife, and enough time I could cut up an elephant! laugh

I have never owned a quality diamond stone and started to buy it but HD is getting about all I can scrape together right now because of the project and I already have good sharpening tools. Maybe later. I do have experience with cheap diamond stones and can tell you the diamonds wear off of them pretty fast, especially if you have a tendency to bear down too much when sharpening which is a bad habit of mine I have to watch. I would suggest concentrating on using light pressure even with a good one to get the most out of it.


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Originally Posted by R_H_Clark


I like waterstones and think they do a great job. The difference is that you will never have to flatten a DMT,or soak it,and it will last a whole lot longer.


I used to think waterstones were stupid and could not see why anyone would want one. However as I learned more I found out that always releasing a fine slurry brings with it a set of advantages. You are always dealing with fresh abrasive and IMO or theory, the fine slurry helps to minimize burr formation which helps create a really clean crisp edge in the hands of a good sharpener. I also think that the slurry colliding with the edge apex as you sharpen with edge leading strokes tends to "round" the edge on a microscopic level which is why you see guys who use only waterstones "strop" their knives on their water stones when they finish them up.

The best, longest lasting edges I have ever personally obtained with my own free hand sharpening were done on a 1000/6000 combo King water stone and then a translucent Arkansas stone to finish. The slurry released by the waterstone made a very clean, burr free edge and hard flat surface of the Arkansas took care of the micro rounding the slurry created in roughly four or 5 very light strokes. The resulting edge would shave an ape and was very durable. No need for stropping that I could see.

All of that is more trouble than its worth though, unless you are a sharpening geek. I do use the same technique with a simple silicon carbide oil stone that releases a slurry and then finish on a fine India or Soft Arkansas and get just as good of an edge except it has more tooth to it.

I learned the idea of start with a friable stone finish with a hard stone on a knife nut forum. Would have never thought of it in a million years on my own. You would probably have to substitute a ceramic or diamond stone for the Arkansas stone if you are working with high end steel, although the India would work.

Or you can not be nuts and use a fine DMT on everything! laugh


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I use red and blue DMT for everything. Leather strop.


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