Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Savage Collectors Is This Sling Stud Correct

The stud came off a take down 22 h.p. I believe its correct for Savage 99 rifles, would be grateful if someone could shed some light on this. Unfortunately the front one which either screwed into the metal or wood is missing. If anyone has a matching correct front one I would happily trade stuff for it

Thanks
Johno
[img]https://i.imgur.com/AdI3S9D.jpg?1[/img]
[img]https://i.imgur.com/Z02h2Cb.jpg?1[/img]
[img]https://i.imgur.com/op5k9B2.jpg?1[/img]

Didn't I send you some pics of mine quite a while back? Or, is this a different one?

Mike you sent me pics of the one you made or had made I thought, but these days the way the old memory is going you may have visited had a bbq and a few beers and it would have slipped my mind.

The one in the photos and i'm buggered if I know why they only came up as a link is an original from the 20s - 30s I believe, just hoping to confirm it and work if the front one went into the wood like yours or into the metal

Johno

Looks like the sling eye Savage used to me another picture of the whole critter would be helpful

Is that the one from the butt stock?

Can you see traces of threads in the hole in the forearm?

Yep this is from the butt stock, took some time but now I remember the front one had the thread part removed and it was silver soldered to semi circular piece of metal and sweated to the barrel. This is why i'm trying to find an original front one to get the pair to refit.

Rory thanks for the help mate on pictures
CTW thanks for that I do feel its period correct and used by savage but we don't get a lot of bits and pieces down here to check it against

Johno

Hoping for some more input on these over the wee hours fellas

Johno

Johno, I have a 1912 H 22HP, it's the one with the Malcolm scope. I don't want to pull the studs. Will a close up of the the stud in the butt help, or do you need to see the threads? My front stud is one of the latch screws. I can take closeups of both, Joe.

Joe, the stud in the photo is slightly flat on the bottom and sort of looks likes rings in the blueing, just check your when you have time please to see if it looks the same.

Which part of the take down latch does the front screw go into?

Thanks
Johno

Hold on a sec, I'll run down and take a look now. I've got 1 cup of coffee in me, I can almost think, Joe.

Johno, it's still pretty dark here and with my new camera, I haven't played with it enough to take good pics. My bluing is about gone, pretty gray with a bit of brown tint. I don't see the rings in the bluing. The bottom of the stud is flat, but the top of the stud where yours is tapered into the ring, mine looks more flat. But, it may look different when I get some good light on it.The front stud was loose so I pulled it out. It goes in the top hole. Here's a couple fuzzy pics.

This is the rifle that lettered to Malcolm. It was received at the warehouse in the morning and shipped to Malcolm the same afternoon. Every one that has seen it says there is no reason to doubt that the studs were factory installed. The screw in the bottom latch hole has no buggered marks, so it looks like it's never been removed. But if some one used a good screw driver and it was as loose as the stud, it may have been removed with no damage. If you want me to try more pics let me know and give me a few hours so I can take it outside, Joe.

Buttress threads on a wood screw. I don't think I've seen that before. Common? Once the sun comes up, I'll go to the shop and dig through the "old wood screw drawer" and the "sling eye drawer".

The picture of the stud is from the latch, not the butt, The butt stud is tight in the wood and I don't want to take it out. The T/D latch is threaded for the stud, Joe.

Joe, Many thanks thats exactly how I thought the correct for end screw should be threaded to go into the metal section of the latch.

So does anyone have one that they wish to sell or trade?

Johno

No problem, it feels good to be useful now and then, I usually just suck everybody else dry on info and help, Joe.