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Joined: Apr 2011
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4000.00 is about right!!

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So far... folks have estimated (here and elsewhere) 3k to $14k.

My #1 problem is finding comparably reliable and useful small 3 ton dump trucks on Craigslist or Ebay... that are not gas, Ford, Chevy, snow truck (rusted) or FUBAR/broken.

I'll post what I paid on the 18th.

I sure would appreciate actual comps (links).

Thanks you kindly!


If you are not actively engaging EVERY enemy you encounter... you are allowing another to fight for you... and that is cowardice... plain and simple.



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My neighbor has two 2nd gen. Ram 3500's chassis cabs. Well he died so I guess you could say his wife has them. He was a good dude, we miss him. Not sure of the years. However, they're both CTD coal rollers, DRW with flat beds. I don't think they dump.

Not sure if she's going to sell them or not. I'd be interested in one if they were four wheel drive. Two wheel drive wouldn't work for my needs.

Good luck, NYH1.


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Originally Posted by CashisKing
I'll post what I paid on the 18th.


Why all the murder mystery drama?

Just post what you paid, and why you paid it...

That will give you more useful feedback than drama and mystery will. wink


The reason you can't find any comparable sales is because there's NOT one exactly like it.

That's why old car salesmen tend to drift towards used car sales, rather than new car sales. If you have a new car, then anyone with a computer knows what they can buy that car for in any location in the U.S.

But used cars sell for what you can get for them, because nobody knows for sure exactly what they have invested in them.


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I have a 98& 1/2. 150K on it. I have put three injection pumps on it.The first failed because of the poor lift pump.Can't blame the injection pump for that.The 2nd one failed because the FASS system failed, so partial blame goes to the injector pump because it was a rebuild. Still on the third one which was new . Knock on wood.

I would say $4000-$6000, leaning towards the high end because the front ends on those Dodges sucks, but it has been replaced.Brakes were next problem and those are new ,so a new owner would get $15-20 K miles out of them. 1Ton adds to it in value, but 2 WD subtracts.Dump would not be an attraction to most. So I am going to say $5000


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Originally Posted by saddlesore
I have a 98& 1/2. 150K on it. I have put three injection pumps on it.The first failed because of the poor lift pump.Can't blame the injection pump for that.The 2nd one failed because the FASS system failed, so partial blame goes to the injector pump because it was a rebuild. Still on the third one which was new . Knock on wood.

I would say $4000-$6000, leaning towards the high end because the front ends on those Dodges sucks, but it has been replaced.Brakes were next problem and those are new ,so a new owner would get $15-20 K miles out of them. 1Ton adds to it in value, but 2 WD subtracts.Dump would not be an attraction to most. So I am going to say $5000



Agreed^^^^^^


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Originally Posted by oldpinecricker
From 98 1/2 to 2002 Dodge used that awful Bosch VP44 injection pump in the 24 valve. A total piece of junk.
Here's the reality. All those performance upgrades on that truck are pretty much worthless for resale and don't mean anything. List all the upgrades one wants it still means nothing, because it adds zip to resale. The real meat and potatoes of that truck is the injection pump. Recently I just put the 5th injection pump on my 2000 Dodge Cummins and the part alone was 3k. The big deal is this one had an upgraded module sensor. That's where the money is. If you have a good injection pump that means A LOT.

The comments above above regarding the VP44 are overstatements. One guy's bad experience is not the same for everyone. Yes, that injection pump might fail early under certain conditions, but good/strong fuel feed (lift pump) will mitigate a lot of that issue. My original (2001 24 valve) injection pump went over 300 k miles, and then quit only due to control module failure - not a mechanical pump fault. I DID NOT have to pay 3k for the replacement pump - I bought it from Thoroughbred - with new module, not rebuilt - for about 1k. Easy install.

This is a good truck for its age. Much of the "right price" is not going to be determined here - it is a matter of how much that specifically outfitted truck is good for your needed use. In my case, the auto trans and lack of 4wd would diminish its value, but those factors may not matter a lick to you. If I knew the truck well and was certain about the condition and replacement factors you noted, and if I needed it to go to work tomorrow, I easily would give 6k for it. If buying it from a good friend, I would be willing to pay another 1k


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[quote=CCCC] I DID NOT have to pay 3k for the replacement pump - I bought it from Thoroughbred - with new module, not rebuilt - for about 1k. Easy install.

My last one was $1800 installed. The pump died on I-70 near Eagle, Colorado. I had it towed to a nearby diesel shop. Problem being I was towing a horse trailer with a new mule I just bought in it. I had to get a friend to drive 150 miles to pick up the trailer and get the mule home that night.I left the truck at the shop a week as they had to order the part.Sometimes you just have to grin and take it.


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saddlesore - if mine quit in a situation like that, I very well might have wound up paying $1800 or more to get it going. That module on mine went out just 4 miles from home at the end of a 3500 mile trip - pulling a toy hauler. So, I was fortunate. Towed the whole rig home and things were snappy after that. If I keep running this old 24 valve, I may buy a pump setup and keep it in the truck - ready for the next time - which NEVER will happen if I'm that well prepared.


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I really appreciate the input on values.

I had to come up with a valuation... as did my close friend. Tough stuff with friends for sure.

My VERY GOOD FRIEND told me to “…figure out the value of the truck and to take off a couple of thousand” (to save the trouble of dealing with a gazillion low-balling landscapers in Northern Virginia).

Originally Posted by CashisKing
I have owned about 25 Cummins in my life... 4BTs to Commonrail...


He trusts my opinion 100%.

If the seller was a stranger from C/L and the maintenance was unknown... and I expected crap to break... I would give $4,000 to $5,500 for a basic rusty dump with a Cummins 12v… and $1k less for a 24v.

Up to $8k for a 3 ton 2wd Cummins dump (with EVERYTHING working at the time of the purchase... truck had no/low smoke on a cold start... spooled up well... ran good... some receipts etc.)...

I told my VERY GOOD FRIEND that I thought his truck (PERFECTLY MAINTAINED) was worth between $10k and 15k... I have seen the truck for years and just assumed 4wd… it is not... realizing this... subtract $2k.

$13k would be a very far reach, but to the perfect buyer in need of this exact set-up it might be achievable in 4-6 months.
$10k would be achievable in a month or so.

I offered $8k.

His opinion was $11k-$12k... maybe...

I offered my semi-custom AR-10 in .338 Federal + 1k rounds of my Match grade ammo… been talking about getting him one of my custom guns for several years now… He is pleased in the gun/ammo/$8k/exchange. As am I.

Here and elsewhere… I had folks estimate from $3,000 to $14k on value (the $13k-$14k estimates were “If I was selling, I would ask”).

Closest Comps anyone sent were:

https://www.carsforsale.com/vehicle/details/28686967

https://www.carsforsale.com/vehicle/details/32905546

https://www.carsforsale.com/vehicle/details/35798164

https://www.carsforsale.com/vehicle/details/36627443

https://www.carsforsale.com/vehicle/details/17850721

I did NOT find a single usable Dodge 3500 1999+/- dump (not FUBAR) comp... not one.

Ford 7.3s are good engines to about 300k (average), but they are thirsty compared to a 5.9 Cummins. I know someone is going to tell me 500k, but I said AVERAGE.

LB7s are drama queens (without a FASS or AirDog) systems. 2001-early 2004. With FASS or AirDog systems they are still drama princesses... with 250k life as typical.

Dodge 47RH-RE trans are notoriously weak, but if overbuilt (when rebuilt at 150k “typically”)… with a larger pan and a temperature gauge... DO HOLD UP WELL FROM THERE ON OUT. Extra battery grounding is highly encouraged.

This truck came with a temp gauge and oversized pan). Temp is the #1 killer of ATs IMHO. The NV4500 is ALWAYS a better tranny option unless your employees/spouse STINK at using a clutch.

So folks remarked about silly upgrades… thanks for the comments, but I am not sure what upgrades would be considered silly on a Cummins.

Oversized injectors are very helpful on power as well as fuel economy (truck also came with OEM injectors in a spare parts box).

Oversized turbo is the same thing… no downside there that I see. OEM turbo also came as spare parts. The turbo also has a temp gauge and boost gauge to provide warnings. No downside there.

Air filter is also after market… 14” diameter and 15” long (HUGE)... plenty of air and long lasting.

The weak link on any 24 valves is the VP44 pump, but with a FASS or AirDog system… double filters (30 and 5) plus 20-40 PSI static pressure (another gauge) there is plenty of warning on pre-failure of the VP44… these pumps fail when supplied fuel is starved and they overheat and cook the circuitry in the pump.

On-board air compressor make 120 PSI to keep the airbag in the rear perfect at 3 tons… or 0 PSI empty... as well as tires etc.

Hydraulics is 12v electric pump driven. Ram to the dump came from an old grain wagon and IMHO is probably 6+ ton capable. Dump and hydraulics are super strong. Bed is custom made and VERY LIGHT by comparison to most… I am happy about this... about 1,000 of extra carry capacity.

2WD was a bummer until I drove her. Smooth as a Cadillac... I have only owned two or three 2WD Dodges and had forgotten.

Steering is all new (no death wobble DEATH stuff)... Rear is PosiTraction.

I will probably install a Reese receiver on the front with QD power... movable winch front to rear as need be... I have done this before.

My friend says about 16 mpg around town and 21-22 on the highway. I had a 12 valve manual 4WD once that got 26, but that was years ago… gears were not good for towing. Fuel was very different years ago... much better filtration... much less silica.

Goose neck ball in frame accessible thru a trap door on the dump bed.

Premium HD Michelins x 6.

New brakes, cables, pads, shoes, drums, rotors etc.

AC/heat work great (no leaks)... remote start ACTUALLY WORKS (never had one that worked before).

Leather seats… driver’s seat is 272k miles worn accordingly.

Frame is ROCK SOLID (zero rust)... tiny bit of body rust here and there.

Upgraded lights all around... VERY NICE!!!

We just bought 300 acres of mountain land in WV... I plan to use this truck constantly to haul BEAUTIFUL BUILDING STONE to market and contractors I know. She will live on the highway 99% of the time.

THANKS AGAIN TO ALL THAT OFFERED OPINIONS

...and let me know if you need stone or dirt hauled in Virginia... for a nominal fee. LOL!!!


If you are not actively engaging EVERY enemy you encounter... you are allowing another to fight for you... and that is cowardice... plain and simple.



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If you both are happy with the transaction, that's all that matters.


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Originally Posted by rockinbbar
If you both are happy with the transaction, that's all that matters.


Bingo...

Buying from friends is always tricky stuff... thus the strong desire to proof out the sale with opinions.

Thanks again to all that participated in my effort at fairness.

Last edited by CashisKing; 02/19/18. Reason: Typos... as always

If you are not actively engaging EVERY enemy you encounter... you are allowing another to fight for you... and that is cowardice... plain and simple.



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Good deal.


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It looks like this one was made as a dump. A few years ago I looked at several of the aftermarket dump kits and none went up higher than 45 degrees. That's not enough to dump anything more solid than water or marbles. It won't dump sand or dirt for sure.


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