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I have a line on a rifle that I am wanting, the guy that owns it wants me to have it, but I have to make him an offer. I highly respect this gentlemen and I do not wish to offend him with a super lowball offer. However the rifle is severely pitted, barrel, receiver, bolt , bolt handle and floor plate are all pitted. The inside of the barrel looks fine from what I could tell using a flashlight, but have told him I wanted to see it with a borescope. He has agreed and in a few days I am suppose to swing by his place and take a look.

What kind of cost do you guys feel that I would incur to have a rifle, in this condition , refinished? I have not shopped this around to any of the local smiths yet, but I wanted to see if any of you guys could give me a ball park to expect.

Thanks

Rugerfan.

Last edited by Rugerfan4374; 03/02/18.
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I would be surprised if you could get anything besides a WAG (wild assed guess) as to cost without some pretty good pictures to show the damage. Light pitting may be able to be polished out, heavier or deep pitting will need a much more aggressive approach (read expensive) or a simple coating that somewhat hides the pitting from casual observance or at the least will halt the rust that caused the pitting in the first place. If the value of the rifle warrants it, draw filing may be necessary, but very labor intensive and expensive and not practiced by a lot of gunsmiths these days...

Good luck with your project rifle.


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Take a look at the prices here:

http://www.hotflashrefinishing.com/rifles.htm

It will give you somewhat an idea of what you might be looking @ $ wise.

I've used their services, nice work.


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Appreciate the information guys. Haven't decided what my course of action is as of yet.

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The big question is how badly you want it ,..... enough to pay someone else to totally refinish, or are you prepared to spend several hours away from the tv polishing it yourself before sending it out. Like reloading, it can be boring, but you're learning a new skill and can be proud of the results.


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The most important question is: "What is it" ? i.e. what is it worth now and then redone ?

If it's a M77 30-06 you would be upside down in no time. Best to derust it and cerakote it.

If it's Holland & Holland Magnum Mauser in 375 H&H, you could spend 3 grand and still be ahead of the game.

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Originally Posted by Barryt
The big question is how badly you want it ,..... enough to pay someone else to totally refinish, or are you prepared to spend several hours away from the tv polishing it yourself before sending it out. Like reloading, it can be boring, but you're learning a new skill and can be proud of the results.



I don't watch much TV anymore anyway. I am not sure how badly I really want it at this point, but it is on the list of calibers I would like to have.

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Originally Posted by kazijoy
The most important question is: "What is it" ? i.e. what is it worth now and then redone ?

If it's a M77 30-06 you would be upside down in no time. Best to derust it and cerakote it.

If it's Holland & Holland Magnum Mauser in 375 H&H, you could spend 3 grand and still be ahead of the game.



That is the big question right now, what will it be worth when it is done. It is a 375 H and H by the way. Winchester Model 70.

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So the questions continue:

-what model 70 ?
-what grade ?
-when made ?

If it's a post 64 push feed go the cerakote route

If it's a pre WWII 25" bbl Super Grade, with no 3rd hole, it might be worth restoring as long as you weren't planning on flipping it for a profit.

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Originally Posted by kazijoy
So the questions continue:

-what model 70 ?
-what grade ?
-when made ?

If it's a post 64 push feed go the cerakote route

If it's a pre WWII 25" bbl Super Grade, with no 3rd hole, it might be worth restoring as long as you weren't planning on flipping it for a profit.



It is post 64 push feed. Somewhere in 70's as I am being told, have not checked the serial number for myself yet. I believe it is a standard grade, as it does not mention Super Grade on the rifle anywhere, the wood stock is not all that fancy , shows a lot of wear and tear in the finish.

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If the pits are bad it's not worth much. You can only do so much with a pit.

If you have to clean out at pit and weld it up with TIG you may have to have it re-heat treated. With these issues is it worth re-doing at all? Can you TIG, re-surface, and heat treat?

It sounds like maybe rust rust and blue remover, a course polish and a trip through a bluing tank.

There are many Pre64 Model 70's an Commercial Mausers with pitted bolts and bottom metal that will always be as they are because they are not worth the cost of re-barreling....

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Originally Posted by swarf
If the pits are bad it's not worth much. You can only do so much with a pit.

If you have to clean out at pit and weld it up with TIG you may have to have it re-heat treated. With these issues is it worth re-doing at all? Can you TIG, re-surface, and heat treat?

It sounds like maybe rust rust and blue remover, a course polish and a trip through a bluing tank.

There are many Pre64 Model 70's an Commercial Mausers with pitted bolts and bottom metal that will always be as they are because they are not worth the cost of re-barreling....


Didn't think about the heat treating, or tig welding them. That is kind of scary.

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Blast it...park it...paint it.

Use a coarse grit medium for an overall matte finish.

Let it sit in the park tank until it sparkles.

Then coat with Duracoat or Cerakote, or Powder Coat. There is a silver metallic powder coat that is very industrial looking, and matte black...PC is a rugged coating. These finishes are not traditional but very durable, rugged and practical.

You can do a lot with coarse medium and a heavy hand on the polishing stand, but just a black park finish will fill in and smooth out the pits nicely with an overall matte finish and it will be rugged looking and beeyouutiful when done.


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Boogaloo has it 100% ! Good "working rifle" with a cerakoted value of around $500.

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I would add that before blasting it in preparation for a finish other than bluing, at least have at the most egregious pitting with files and abrasives to knock the worst of it down first. A little elbow grease can make a world of difference to the outcome.


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Thanks for all the input, but the deal on the 375 fell through. Owner of the rifle and I could not come to a common number for the condition of the rifle, another buyer stepped in and forked over 250 dollars more than what the owner was asking for it.

Hope it works out for him.

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$300??? - What caliber?


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