Guys, I have an old revelation 30/06 model 250 AKA savage 110E I think I got from a friend........ It's a beater, it came with a cracked stock I have since glued it back together would it handle being fired again or should look for a new stock I would like to put glass on it too to bring it up to snuff for a hunting trip
Looks like a '65 model, am I right? Provided you did a good job gluing it it's fine. You can always paint the stock since you want to "hunt it". It works for guns being used in heavy rain. I have another stock with a different checkering pattern if you get in a punch.
_______________________________________________________ An 8 dollar driveway boy living in a T-111 shack
OH! good I didn't have a clue on the model year(s) He said it was his grandfathers Ok that's all I needed was someone with far more experience in such matters to say I'm good to go... I get a kick out of these "store brands" I also have a Sears Model 54 30-30 (WIN 94)
Yeah, the private label guns are fun to find. Have you thought bout a synthetic stock? Regardless, it looks good in your pictures as is. I'm a sucker for a barrel boss!
"The universal aptitude for ineptitude makes any human accomplishment an incredible miracle." John Stapp - "Stapp's Law" "Klaatu barada nikto"
Depends on what you glued it with in terms of how strong it is and whether it'll stand up to rigorous handling in bad weather. I hope you didn't use crazy glue as it has little shock resistance. Good yellow glue (such as Titebond II or III) is ok, but might raise the glue line with time. Epoxy is always best in this instance.
Most important of all is whether you had sufficient long grain in the break for glue to bond onto. (Long grain is just that: long wood fibers that flow with the grain, not across it.) End grain is what you see on the end of a board. Long grain to long grain glue ups, if tight, will provide virtually the same strength as the surrounding wood, say somewhere between 90-100%. Long grain to end grain= probably in the neighborhood of 25% strength, and end grain to end grain is nil, around 10% strength. (Those figures are rough and will vary between wood species.)
Bottom line: you're probably ok. Were it me, I would smack it around to see if it held up to mis-handling in the field. Better to have it fail in the basement than up on a mountain in the middle of an expensive hunting trip. As far as withstanding recoil, no sweat in my opinion. Any way to glue in a cross bolt (wood dowel or metal rod) smack dab through the broken area from side to side as a stiffener? Not the most elegant addition, but it could add greatly to your peace of mind.
For use in inclement weather, again were it me, I would strip it and re-finish with a good spar varnish, over a base coat of clear epoxy for maximum prevention of water fenestration. Such an approach will give the best protection for wood, short of slathering on a couple coats of paint (and maybe better). (If you go with an epoxy base coat, thin the stuff and paint it on as you would anything else, then even it out with a sanding block before applying several coats of varnish. Epoxy by itself is no good- it has terrible UV light resistance and as such will degrade fairly rapidly. The spar varnish will alleviate that.) At any rate, a barrier finish will provide a world's worth of better protection from the elements than any "oil" finish, period.
"You can lead a man to logic, but you cannot make him think." Joe Harz "Always certain, often right." Keith McCafferty
When you say "put glass on it too" do you mean wrap the outside with resin or epoxy impregnated fiberglass cloth? If so, it would look like hell's half acre but be immensely stronger! (Did I mention it would look hideous?) If you fully subscribe to "form follows function", well, then, go for it! Sometimes form does follow function.
"You can lead a man to logic, but you cannot make him think." Joe Harz "Always certain, often right." Keith McCafferty
THANKS, i used wood glue can't remember what brand right now but I got it at Ace... LOL Oh, Glass I meant scope glass as I'd rather use that then the open site propped up with a penny as the rear riser that is on the gun now, hehe hee. yes, the break was with the grain I ran paper thro the break full of glue to soak the entire crack then clamped up the wide area of the stock and used a 550 cord Tourniquet on the wrist to really cinch down that area. I'm going to redo the finish I think, as its pretty ruff right now especially since you guys have confirmed that it should be ok now I need to do this one and my Marlin model 60 squirrel stock, and if I get just a little confidence from doing them I'm going to reattach a chip that got knocked off of my Remington 742's buttstock in shipping that one really chapped my hide i have had the rifle for 30 years well dad had it I had to trade it for a motor for my old chevy back in the early nintys $350 he would never sell it back to me but never used it either so its been a closet queen till now when he finally let me have it back so I have 742 that has maybe 5 rounds through it on 30 years the 1 I shot off before he got it and the 4 since I have had it back
i have a stock kicking around that has been shortened 1 inch. also a 20 inch carbine barrel with boss sans sights for an early 110 anybody that can use them can have them for postage.
Last edited by deerstalker; 03/06/18.
the consolidation of the states into one vast republic, sure to be aggressive abroad and despotic at home, will be the certain precursor of that ruin which has overwhelmed all those that have preceded. Robert E Lee ~Molɔ̀ːn Labé Skýla~
jeffg gets the 110 parts even if he is a New Yorker! no offense meant Jeff just trying to dredge up some humor.
Last edited by deerstalker; 03/06/18.
the consolidation of the states into one vast republic, sure to be aggressive abroad and despotic at home, will be the certain precursor of that ruin which has overwhelmed all those that have preceded. Robert E Lee ~Molɔ̀ːn Labé Skýla~
