Home Forums Hunting & Shooting General Big Game 721 rebarre

My understanding is that with any ammonia based copper solvent that the damage is done if you let it dry in the bore. This is when etching occurs as the ammonia mixes with oxygen and becomes corrosive (ammonium oxide? not sure). If you plug your barrel and fill it with Sweets or whatever this does not occur. But I have never had to do this and don't want to test it on a good barrel. An old Military or factory barrel that I was about to give up on anyway I would do this as a last resort.

hello everyone,
Just an update on the 721 project; sent the rifle off to ER Shaw to be rebarreled in 270 win with a 24 inch stainless fluted barrel. Decided to go with a 270 win because of CA's dumb ammo law that no longer allows citizens to order ammo online and figured 270 would be easier to find ammo in store. Next step is to order a new stock. Does anyone know if it will drop into a standard 700 stock? I am curious about Boyds but am curious about the gap for the barrel nut with a standard barrel. Do I need to order an adl platform or 721? Or better off doing a bdl conversion?

Action will fit a standard LA Remington stock. You may have to adjust the barrel channel. You will need an ADL mag box, spring and action screws to go that route. BDL is more costly but I like it better. 721 bottom metal and hardware may fit a BDL stock and would still give you a blind mag but the option to upgrade later, I don't have a LA BDL stock to try it on tho.

You may also need to releive the bolt handle slot as the 721 handle is not swept like the 700. Also may need to relieve the trigger inlet.

Would like to hear your reasoning

DF

JES converted a 1951 721 in .30-06 to 9,3x62M for me...

I am extremely happy with his work and the accuracy of the rifle... https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/12399422

9,3M is a fantastic caliber... relatively flat, mild recoil and hit like a sledge hammer.

A couple of things:

I've burned out more than one 30-06 barrel, but I shoot a lot: a 30-06 721 I have is on it's 4th barrel. It has been my experience. that carbon build up will more likely affect accuracy than copper build up, but that being said. If you're going to clean the barrel clean it well, before giving up on it.

I'd try:

JB Bore cleaner on a tight patch around a bronze brush.

Then I'd use a foaming cleaner until the patches have nothing but blue on them.

Then I'd clean with an oil based ammonia cleaner or any ammonia cleaner if you are going to stick with it until clean. One often recommend is Montana extreme, though the smell is poignant, will clean the barrel well after the carbon is out. There are several different ammonia cleaners and I use three or four (Butch's, Sweets, Montana Extreme, & ?). So far I don't see much difference in their performance. If you use an oil based ammonia cleaner you don't need to worry about leaving it in the barrel, evidently. If I stop cleaning a barrel for say a period of time such as an hour or more (sometimes I don't know when I'll be back to cleaning it), I put a couple of patches of oil down the barrel.

When I cleaned my rifle barrels in preparation for Dyna Bore treatment, I was surprised how much copper I had removed out of some rifle barrels that shot well (and thus I didn't worry about cleaning).

Finally any 700 barrel will fit a 721 action. A new take off 30-06 700 barrel can be found for $50.

The 30-06 with premium bullets will be good for anything on this side of the world. Unless you want something different stay with the 30-06. It certainly would be one of the two cartridges I'd consider if I were only to have one rifle for game. The 280 would be on that list too, maybe even the gay cartridge, which I will not mention - reputation, you know.

SOB won't let me click on it, says cannot be found.

I've got a 722 in 300 Savage that was my first big game rifle, and will proably ly never part with it. That being said, i don't think I'd ever spend the money to re barrel it either. It still shoots good and kills deer as well as it always did, but they have a couple of problems, number one being the extractor, never had one break but if they do they are next to impossible to fined replacements. I never really liked the Sako or AR conversations and they can expensive. Thye next problem is the large drop in the stock at the heel. These rifles were made when open sights were popular, with the extensive drop it is hard to get good cheek weld with even low ring mounts. These are great old guns but IMHO you'd be better off buying a used Remington 700 or Winchester Model 70. I have picked up a couple of older Mod 70 Win push feeds in the plastic stock for a song. Paid $275.00 for my last 30 06 and 299.00 for a 270 WSM Turkey Fed Rifle. Both are great shooters after a good cleaning and free floating the barrel The 270 WSM shoots 3/4" or less all day long. Scope up the 30 06 weighs 8 pounds 1 OZ. I think this is the way to go as both are very solid rifles, can't be beat for the $

I've got a 722 in 300 Savage that was my first big game rifle, and will proably ly never part with it. That being said, i don't think I'd ever spend the money to re barrel it either. It still shoots good and kills deer as well as it always did, but they have a couple of problems, number one being the extractor, never had one break but if they do they are next to impossible to fined replacements. I never really liked the Sako or AR conversations and they can expensive. The next problem is the large drop in the stock at the comb and heel. These rifles were made when open sights were popular, with the extensive drop it is hard to get good cheek weld with even low ring mounts. These are great old guns but IMHO you'd be better off buying a used Remington 700 or Winchester Model 70. I have picked up a couple of older Mod 70 Win push feeds in the plastic stock for a song. Paid $275.00 for my last 30 06 and 299.00 for a 270 WSM Turkey Fed Rifle. Both are great shooters after a good cleaning and free floating the barrel The 270 WSM shoots 3/4" or less all day long. Scope up the 30 06 weighs 8 pounds 1 OZ. I think this is the way to go as both are very solid rifles, can't be beat for the $. The old push feds were cheaper guns and not bought by many serious shooters, so many are sighted in and hunted once a year spending their lives with few rounds fired so are in very good condition.

Fine cartridge covers most bases and usually very accurate.

So its been a while since I updated this thread. This project is 90% complete. I ended up sending my gun to E.R. Shaw to have rebarreled in .270 win. They put on a contour #1 stainless with highlighted flutes. While they were at it I had them blue print and true the action. It's mated in a Boyd's Prairie Hunter gray laminate stock. I got it back a few months ago months ago and worked up a few loads. It seems to like 130 gr. Barnes TTSX with 54.1 gr of RL17. Finally took it out on a hunt last month and all I can say is month well spent so far. All that's left is bolt fluting and upgrading the optics.

Looks great! What did the weight come to?

My reasoning is that I'm a recoil pansy. I load 250 grain Accubonds at 2600 fps. They give me a headache.

Your rifle came out looking very nice. It's accurate, too. I have two Shaw barrels on Savage Axis actions, and they are fine shooters.

While perusing my new Sierra #6 loading manual there is some phenomenal velocities with this old timer with two new powders. CFE223 and 2000-MR. 26 inch test barrel and Sierra's 225 SBT shows 2900 FPS WOW that is some horsepower. Sierra's #5 manual shows only 2700 with then available powders. I turned back to the 338 WM and it shows 2800 FPS with a 225 Sierra bullet from a 25 inch barrel.

I have never used either one of those powders but they must be really dense as the loads show 70+ grains. I will have to dust off my Whelen and see if they will work for me. These loads make the Whelen a non belted magnum.