Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Elk Hunting Elk Rifle

Hi Guys. I went on an unsuccessful DIY elk hunt in Colorado in 2016 (over the counter archery). I would like to start going regularly (every other year or so) to hunt elk with a rifle. I own several rifles that could feasibly be used for elk. I have a very accurate 25-06, a 6.5 Creedmoor, a .308 Win and a 30-06. All of these are bolt-action rifles. I was thinking of using my Remington 700 30-06 with 190 grain Accubond LR bullets. I rarely use this rifle anymore so I thought I could make it or the 308 Win my elk rifle.

I know both are capable of killing an elk but would something bigger be a big improvement? If I am going to go regularly, I wouldn't mind buying a new rifle if it is the right tool for the job. The more that I have researched magnum cartridges, the more I have come to the conclusion that they don't offer much better trajectory until you get past 400 or 500 yards. I am not a skilled long-range shooter so I wouldn't be setting up for long shots. (In all honesty, I have never shot at game beyond about 60 yards because the areas I hunt at home are mostly dense forest.) I have shot targets at 200 yards with no issue (from a bench) and I intend to start practicing at 300 but would prefer not to shoot farther than that unless necessary. What do you think? Am I putting myself at a disadvantage with a 30-06 or 308? Thanks

Use the .308 or .30/06 and go forth and kill elk.

Nope, either one will be just fine! Take the money you don't spend on a new rifle and buy a good set of binos. Get plenty of exercises. Next, to find an elk to shoot, the real hard part comes once it's on the ground. As for bullets, A good 165 gr to 180 gr will be fine, I have always shot Nosler Partitions so I am a bit biased on that. Barnes X is a good one too. As for distance, well its one thing on the range it's another when you are exhausted and its the last bit of shooting light you have. That is a judgment call. If you can hit a grapefruit at 200 yards, you will be fine. Get in shape and stay in shape that maybe is the hardest part of the whole thing. I am a flat lander from New England, Elk hunting just takes a lot out of me. Mostly due to altitude differences.

Thanks. I was thinking about getting a Browning BAR in 7mm or 300 Win Mag but I am not sure if it would make much of a difference at those ranges. I was surprised to see that the 7mm had no energy advantage within at least 400 yards and neither had a significantly reduced bullet drop at that range. With a scope it would end up costing close to $2000 and I got thinking that that money might be better used on other equipment.

Any other opinions?

FYI, my 308 has a 24" barrel and the 30-06 has a 22' barrel. I don't reload. I assume they are neck and neck on speed with similar weight bullets. I shoot 165 grain Accubonds out of the .308 and bought a couple boxes of the 190g Accubond Long Range to test out in the 30-06.

What part of New England? I have a cabin in Vermont and, while not the Rockies, it isn't exactly flat. I agree on staying in shape. I am in reasonably good shape for my age and station in life. Still, I work indoors and I'm not in mountain shape most of the time. Fortunately, I have a pretty high tolerance for discomfort and am stubborn so I don't give up easily. I did fine physically on my last trip but I didn't have to pack meat.

Use the money you would spend on a new rifle and by ammunition for A LOT of practice at these ranges. Contrary to what you see on the long range TV shows, more elk are killed at ranges less than 300 yards than over. In my 40+ years of elk hunting, ALL of my elk were killed at less than 300 yards.

With the barrel lengths of your .308 and .30-06, the ballistics should be similar. Both of those calibers have killed thousands of elk. When I hunted elk with my .30-06 I used standard 150 and 180 grain Sierra and Hornady bullets. When I changed to magnum velocities I switched to 180 grain Partition bullets. Now my favorite elk rifle is my .300 Weatherby shooting 168 and 180 grain Barnes TSX or TTSX bullets. I've also killed elk with sub 30 caliber bullets. Its more about where you put the bullet rather than the size of the bullet.

Any of the 4 you list are fine, and the 308 and 30-06 are close to perfect.

Personally I recommend a bullet that is excellent for 97% of the kills you'll make in your life, instead of the 3%

In other words, stay away from the "long range bullets" that work wonderfully at 500 yards and farther, but not as good as the old standards from 500 and closer. I have killed enough elk that I can't count them easily, but the very longest shot I have made in 40 years on an elk is 400 yards. The next longest kill I have made on an elk was about 175 yards. ALL my others have been at 125 or less with most of them being at 65 yards and less. My closest was about 8 feet.

In my 40 years of hunting and guiding for elk hunters I can say that any "deer rifle" from a 25-06 and up is OK for elk, if you load "elk bullets" in them. My daughter and both my grand-sons have killed elk with a 257 Roberts,and none of them have needed 2 shots. They all used 120 grain Nosler partitions except for one elk that was killed with a 115 grian Barnes. All had exits and all fell withing 15 yards of where they were hit.

It's not so much the gun or the shell you need to worry about. It's the bullet that makes the bullet hole, and it's the bullet hole that is killing the game. The simple truth is that a bullet used on elk should exit and make a hole in a nearly straight line that is 1" or larger in diameter. Any bullet that does that will kill elk as well as any other cartridge you can name. Bullet that come apart can result in very dramatic kills but they are also the ones that do erratic things in the bodies of game animals and cause difficult tracking stories and sometimes lost game, even when the bullets are placed well. "Electric shock kills" 85% of the time with 15% being unreliable is NOT as desirable as 100% good kills in which you get exits, and the elk never go more then 25 yards. The "electric shock kills" impress a man because they look so dramatic, but overall, if they are happening with bullets that come apart and don't exit, you are just playing the odds and sooner or later your broken up bullet is going to fail your expectations.

A bullet that expends,never breaks up more than 40% of it's weight, and always goes clear through is far more reliable overall. If the elk falls instantly (many do) that's great, but if they run and fall, they will do so only a short distance away from where they were hit, leaving a blood trail a blind man can follow.

I am speaking form experience here as a hunter and guide, and I would FAR rather know my hunter has a bullet that will go clear through than any of the new "long range" bullets I have seen used so far. Many of them will not exit an elk. I am sure some will, and time will tell what kind of track-record they will give us, but if you are coming from out-of-state and spending hard earned money on these hunts, I would advise you to use a partition bullet, an expanding solid bullet ( X or GMX or the like) or any bonded bullet.
Some of the newest offerings may be OK, but then again they may not be. The ones I have seen used in the last 5 years have not impressed me much so far. If you use the ones I recommend you are going with a combination that is proven. Let those that don't have to risk the time and money you would risk do the experimentation. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!" applies very well in your case.

The rule of thumb is that your bullet should weight 60% (or more) of it's unfired weight when it stops. Even if it hits bone.

Bullet construction is Key. Just going bigger is not always an answer.
I have personally seen 270 grain 9.3MM Speer bullets fail to go deeper than 5" in small deer when fired from a 9.3X74R. that's a gun and cartridge that is supposed to be a top choice for big bears, buffalo and bison. (Yes that 5 inches, and it was measured with a ruler, not just guessed at. The wound was oblong and 7" long at it largest point, but just under 5" deep) A poor hunting bullet is a poor hunting bullet no matter what it's fired from.

The 06 is fine.. My late wife killed several elk with that and 150 gr. Horn. The advantage of the magnums are they shoot flatter at over 300 yards.. But as others have pointed out those shots aren’t common in much of elk country.. However in my case, I have shot more elk over 300 yards than any other animal except coyotes.. But the reason for this is for many years elk was important to us to balance a budget!! Also I often hunted after work, at it was best to get to a spot I could see lots of country the last hour of day.. Also for many years we hunted a steep mountain that offered very long shots.. If I watched there every evening elk season, I would connect.. In the days before range finders the magnums made such shooting easier.. Now I seldom shoot at elk very far.. I like beef better than elk, and money is not so tight.. I carried my 30-06 and .25-06 several days each this fall, but did not see any elk with in even long range..

This ^^^^^^

I would take the .30 cal you like better and shoot straighter. Since you don't hand load and the .308 has 2' more tube, they will likely produce VERY similar velocities. Factory .308 tends to be loaded a bit hotter than factory 30-06. Couple that with 20-50 fps more due to 2" longer barrel and I doubt you'll see much difference.

To date, I have killed four elk.....one with a 280remimgton, one with a 35 whelen, ......and two with a 30-06 ..all one shot kills...but I used premium bullets and I'm not sure how important that is.....that said, I'll continue that practice with Barnes bullets

My point: it sure don't seem to be important how big the caliber.....but the shot placement is the trump card in every case. I wouldn't hesitate to take a .270 Winchester today!

Use whatever you shoot the best.....then shoot it even more, and get better with it.

It's not that complicated.

Thanks guys. Regarding the long range bullets, the Accubond LR have a higher ballistic coefficient (not a big deal for shorter ranges) but also are softer. I was thinking that would make for good expansion even at fairly low speeds that I would get from the 30-06 (something like 2200 fps at 300 yards). They are also bonded so I would think they would retain weight fairly well too. Maybe I am wrong.

I'd go with the 30-06 and a good 180 gr. bullet and not look back. To be honest, I've only used the 30-06 one time for elk. Of the others one was with a .300 Win. Mag. and the rest with a .35 Whelen.
So, with the 30-06 the load was a handload with the 165 gr. Nosler Accubond, not the ABLR at close to 2900 FPS. he elk was quartering away at about 100 yards. Bullet hit right at the short ribs and penetrated into the left lung. The elk went about 30 yards and laid down. The bullet did not exit and was never found. I believe it was buried in the mess that was the left lung.
Shot at the other elk were 530 yards/.300 Win. Mag., 75, 150, 200, 350, 125, 200 and250 yards/.35 Whelen 225 gr. TSX at 2700 FPS. Trajectory is very similar to the 30-06 180 gr. bullet at 2700 FPS. Winchester 180 gr. Power Point factory loads chronographed at 2650 from my 24" barreled 30-06. Close enough. The .308 180 Power Points did 2600 FPS from a 22" M70. Of the 30-06 vs .308, I'd probably go with the 06 first and take the .308 as back up.
The .300 Mag. shot was on a public land hunt and the rest were done on land owner tags on a private ranch.
Paul B.

Looking into it more, I am thinking that I should but some standard 180 grain Accubonds.

I would run the AB's or the NP's in both your .308 and your 06, and go from there. I would shy away from the LR's, as I agree most elk are shot at and killed closer up, and by far. You're much more likely to get close than you think.

There are a ton of other things FAR more important than what you are worrying about.

Grab either your .308 or 30-06, whichever you shoot best, and don't worry about it. They will kill elk just fine.


Are you in shape?
Do you have a beer gut?
Have you walked 5 miles in your hunting boots?
3 miles?

Do you own a decent set of binoculars?

How about a pack frame, gore-tex shell?

Bone saw?

How do you plan on getting the animal out?
De-boning? meat/game bags to keep the meat clean?

How do you plan on carrying a hind quarter, as well as your rifle?

etc,etc...


Many tend to worry about the rifle and cartridge, but are complete basket cases when it comes to everything else, and pathetically out of shape, poorly prepared for the other 98% of what is involved.



Elk are really not hard to kill. In fact that is the easy part.

Once you kill one though, that is when you find out if you have your schitt together.

Thanks for the good advice. I am in decent shape but would ratchet up my fitness before the season. I'm 6'1" and am a hair under 200. My ideal weight would probably be more like 185. I am fairly strong. I can bench press, squat, etc. a good bit more than I weigh but I'm not a bodybuilder either. I mountain bike frequently in the summer and hunt grouse in the fall (among other things) so that helps keep me in reasonable shape.

Yes, I have good boots (that I have covered many miles in while hunting out here), Gore-Tex, a pack frame, a few decent backpacks (Eberlestock F1, F2 and X2 and a KUIU 5800) and would probably strap the rifle to the pack after a kill. I have a couple wall tents, backpack tents, sleeping bags, game bags, a meat saw (didn't pack it last time but probably should), etc. I also have a Sig Kilo 2000 range finder and a GPS. I am generally prepared except I will need a good pair of binoculars. I am a fairly good woodsman and pretty resourceful - at least by East Coast standards.

On the down side, I have been getting IT band pain recently when walking long distance across slopes. I'll have to figure out a remedy for that.

I actually have a sled like that too. When I went in 2016, I took my 4x4 atv so I would be able to pack meat to the nearest trail then retrieve my atv. It was all public land with trails for atvs with a permit. I would do the same again unless I was going to do a drop camp hunt.

cool pics

I've got a whole box of fifty loaded rounds.....30-06, 180 accubonds that I'll sell you if you want them.....They shoot just fine in my M-70 but I'm going all lead free ammo from now.

Hand loaded?

I have killed most of my elk with my .06and that is more than a few. Next would be the.308. After that,a smattering of 7mag, 45-70, 44 mag, 50 cal muzzle loader.I don't subscribe to the notion that bullets must exit .It does have to penetrate to the vitals and finding it under the hide on the far side has happened more often than not with me.
Before all these wonder bullets came out,I killed my elk with 180 gr Sierra Game Kings, Sierra 220 gr RN, Speer 180 gr spire points, the old Norma boat tails.Presently, Nosler 180 gr partitions because Shooters Pro shop had them for $13.box of 50. Pure led bullets out of a 50 cal muzzle loader. I can't say any died faster or slower with that range of bullets.

I agree that a person has to select the right bullet for the job, but it is equally,or maybe even more so to put it in the right place.
BTW, I have killed several elk with that 200 gr RN in excess of 350 yards,one shot kills.Guys that bad mouth them most likely never used them.
I don't have any hard proof,but I bet a lot more elk have been killed with180 gr Coreloks than any other bullets in an.06.

Mackay_Sagebrush is spot on

yup

This-both are elk killers and kick much less than say a 338WM

I would choose the 308 & hunt with confidence.

I only have 6 of them.

Good advice!

Not calibers, cartridges.

All four of your choices will take elk cleanly and with no fuss.

I’d probably choose the lightest rifle you shoot well and I simply wouldn’t worry which of those four cartridges that rifle was chambered in. I’d find a good elk bullet it likes then go forth and kill elk.

I've killed elk with a 300 SAUM, 300 WSM, 270 win - all with Nosler bullets. 2 with 180 Accubond, 2 with 180 Partitions, 2 with 150 Partitions. There's a theme running through the kills. Cartridges listed are all about equal to your 308/30-06. I'd find whichever Nosler product both guns liked, you need a back-up, and go forth. My longest shot to date is a bit over 200 yards. Closest 15-20 feet. You stand a better chance of running into an elk at point blank range than the classic across the meadow/canyon shot. I'd pick a bullet with a decent BC but also with the structural integrity to handle the 20 footer. A close range quarter-to shot is asking alot from a bullet. Partitions are up to the task. 😎

My rifle pair last year - 270 with 150 Partitions and 308 with 180 Sierras. Rifle pair this year, likely be a 280 AI with 160 Accubonds and a 308 with 180 Sierras. Your rifles are fine. Put the shot in the right spot and roll up your sleeves because the real work starts then.

Bravo!! Two excellent choices.

I gotta say, my Kimber Montana in 308 has become my favorite rifle. Its hard to leave it in the gun safe.............

I would take the 30-06 and use a quality 180 grain bullet. I also wouldn’t be planning on a 400 yard shot. I’m no Elk expert, but I think one is more likely to find them in cover on public land, than out in an open field.

Spend the money on upgrading optics if you don’t already have top tier glass performance. Happy Trails

That's a good point. I have a ton to learn about elk. As far as binos, can you get decent ones without spending a lot of money? I was doing some research and it seems like most guys (at least online posters) spend in the $1,000 to $2500 range. That seems pretty expensive to me for that one item. I'll do it if there is a significant difference in quality and performance. I suspect there is a certain price point under which binoculars are pretty much junk and a price point over which they are top of the line but maybe only marginally better that mid-priced. I way this because there always seems to be a sweet spot for consumer goods. Cheapskate junky products, the medium range quality products and the luxury goods for the elitists. Anything in the $500ish range perform well?

On binos - call Doug at Cameraland. I was in your shoes ~ 12-13 years ago. Doug guided me to Minox 10x42 (forget exact model). I did a Mule Deer type optical test with the Minox and various Leica, Swarovski, and Bushnell binoculars I scrounged from friends/family. The Minox didn't give up a whole lot to any of them and were ~ $500 out the door. I'm still using them.............

Thanks. As a starting point, is 8x42 about the right size?

I used Nikon Monarch binocs out West, good enough for my purpose.

take the one you like to shoot most and shoot it often. where you place the shot is more important that getting all wrapped up in which caliber to use. I have only taken 9 elk in 25 years of hunting, but 7 of those were with a 270 and 150 grain nosler partitions, the other two were 30-06 with plain ole sierra 180 grain. all one shot kills, the elk seemed to be uninterested in what was killing them.

^^^^^^This^^^^^^

Try some Vortex 168TTSX 30-06 ammo and even 150TTSX in the 308, see if your rifles like them. I like the mono bullets on thick skin/heavy muscle animals as big as elk myself. Also, you don't need a big, heavy scope; something like 1.5x5, 2x7, 2.5x8, and even a standard 3x9 is OK. It needs to be waterproof, of course (:)) as you are more likely to get rained on than snowed on, depending. You want a wide field of view, big game animals don't need magnifying, right? The reason is your shots are very, very likely to be on moving, even running, elk at oblique angles since "90% of the elk spend 90% of their time in the 90% thickest part of the mountains, ha. Get on a game trail and ease along, use a cow elk call just a little.
Any binoc up to 10x is fine, and I find I prefer 8x ( especially since my dear Pastor "gave" me a Swarovski 8x30 20 yrs ago, ha) more quality has more resolution so it takes less power to actually see things. But small enough to slip inside your coat or coat pocket. Read, read, read...take advantage of other folks experiences ( good and bad) ask questions a lot, especially on how to get that big sucker out of the woods! I like the rolled up plastic slides, depending up the terrain. You can always bone out the meat, put in an Army duffle bag, rig up a good harness and drag out behind you. Will work and even be easier to get through some down timber ( yes, there will be down timber) ha, hopefully not, but you can't "look a chicken in the face and tell how fat it is"....that means you may start out "seeing" them in the picture perfect meadow, but end up "killing" him in doghair thickets! But it is so much fun!! Wool is always good hunting clothes, but you have time to get a good set of high tech, lightweight, waterproof clothes. Pay big money for at least one set of it, stay funky for 5 days or go for it and get two sets, you won't need more. Have a great time, preparation time is never wasted time. Oh yeah...take me with you when you go? ha

That 190gr LRAB should still be considered. Lots of good choices out there. I've used that bullet to kill several elk and deer from ranges of 80 yds out to 500 yds. No complaints what-so-ever.

I do like 165-180 gr in 30 caliber though.

you do not say what rifles the 308 and 30-06 are respectively. which have the better scope or trigger or? ....; I have killed quite a few with 30-06 and I like it. several with 165s and 180s. one with a 150 hornady interbond. I would maybe try the hornady eld-x. Ron

That would mean I should bring my 25-06. That is my favorite rifle. I have never hunted with it though and think it might be a bit light for elk.

Both are Remington 700s. The 30-06 is a BDL model (blued 22" barrel and wood stock) and the 308 is a stainless SPS model (synthetic stock and 24" stainless barrel). Both have Leupold 4-12x40 scopes.

I've used both. I 'donated' my 8x32 to some poor yute in Kansas City last year. I had been using the 8x32 for the last 4-5 years, left the 10x42 in the safe. This year I'm using the 10x42. I really like the lightweight 8x32 but will try the 10x42 this year. If they are unweidly I'll be back to the 8x binos.....

IMO there are better returns on investment to spend money on if you are planning on regular elk hunts. The rifles you have are very appropriate for the task. I'd spend the new gun money on the getting/upgrading the 3Bs: binocs, backpack, boots. They have more of an influence on the hunt than a change in rifle would.

+100

Especially boots, mainly because my feet have been problematic for me. All of this other stuff won't matter if you can't walk. I'd extrapolate and say spend time/money on getting in shape, buy high quality boots (may cost $3-400.....), then go backpack, then binos. I'd buy a used Kifaru, Mystery Ranch (with new frame), Stone Glacier, or EXO. I'd try them and pick whichever fits the best. I'd still call Doug on binos if you don't want to do Alpha glass. Minox may have been mentioned before 😎

Boots, boots, boots, ...

Oh, and bullets.

If there is one thing that I have enough of, it's footwear. I'm like a woman in that regard.

Timber: Could you tell me more about those Long Range Accubonds? Did they perform well on the elk that you killed. Where were they hit? Pass-through? Thanks

And he's back to rifle gack. I too used to, and still do at times, spend too much time/thought/energy on the rifle stuff than the other, more important stuff because it's fun. A couple of hunts may cure one a bit of that...

Kind of partial to 30-06 and 180gr Hornady BTSPs myself.

I have Eberlestock and KUIU packs. Are you saying they won't be up to the task? If I need another pack, I'll get one. I have a bunch of quality boots: Kentrek Hardscrabble, Lowa Tibet Superwarm, American Made Danners, etc.

I think I might try the Meopta MeoPro binoculars. They seem to get good reviews and are not outrageously expensive.

Great picture!

A public flogging with 20 lashes to my proof reader!

I think you will be fine with the .308 or the '06. I have used both cartridges successfully. The regular Accubonds or Partitions in 165 and 180 grain respectively.

The .308 loads used 150 Power Points or 165 grain Sierra Boattails. If anything they dropped elk faster than the .338. I was naiive I guess.

The '06 was loaded with 180 gr Partitions. I carried TBBC too but my current favorite rifle prefers Partitions.

Take your 308 since its stainless and you'll likely endure weather in elk country. Your set for boots, pack and other kit it sounds like. Can never have too many pairs of darn tough socks however. Whatever 165-180 grain game bullet shoots consistently well is your new elk round. I sold my swaro 10x42's and replaced them with Leica trinivoid 8x42's... They're less than $1k and absolutely fantastic binos and I much prefer them to my much more costly former Swarovski binos.

30-06 as backup. All things being equal in terms of accuracy of the two 30 cals you have and assuming you're equally proficient with them I think the short action 308 with longer barrel might help with target float if you're shooting in windy conditions due to the forward weight distribution. Also, keep the wood and blued gun nice.

Binos first, then lots of trigger time, hiking under load, studying maps and google earth, tags and vacation time etc, then consider a compact spotting scope. Then possibly new rifle glass.

Any of the cals you mentioned will work with the proper bullet. I am a 6.5 shooter. For many years we have been using the 6.5x308, 260Rem , 6.5x55 & the 264 mag. Using the Barnes 120gr X & now the TSX They all work giving complete penetration & one shot kills using the Barnes 120gr TSX or TTSX. We have never recovered one of these bullets & have never lost an elk. We take one to two elk each season. ..A friend uses a 270 with the Barnes 130gr TSX with the same results. Another friend uses his 308 with the Barnes 130gr which also gives complete penetration. These mono copper make a huge difference. . Remember it is a " TOUGH DEEP PENETRATING" bullet " PROPERLY PLACED" . This always works.

If you really want an excuse to buy a new rifle I wouldn’t talk you out of it. I’ve used 30-06 7mm and now carry a 300 Weatherby with the Zeiss HD5 Z800 reticle as my dedicated elk gun. They all worked fine but the 300 really shines at longer ranges across canyon shots. Where we hunt most of the time is fairly open so the average shot is just under 300 yards the farthest I’ve killed one is 550 in almost 0 wind conditions. We have 2 hunters using 30-06 with 150 grain Barnes TTSX hand loads at about 3000 FPS and one shooting 180 grain TTSX factory in his 06 as well as a 300 Win and another Weatherby all of them kill elk just fine. I’d pick a Tikka 300WSM with a good scope if I were starting out today with no elk rifle at all but wouldn’t hesitate to use an 06 if that was in the safe.

Your gear is fine for elk hunting and you should be in ok shape arriving at altitudes earlier helps but who has that time. Stick with the 06 if you shoot it well or 308 with good bullets. The Meopta Bono’s are nice I’d go with 10x42 Meostar it’s as close to alpha as you get and can be the difference in a shoot or pass decision that means meat or no meat. I use the Swarovski SLC 10x42 but it took me 10 sets of binoculars to get there they are really terrific at resolving that eye guard at 350 yards in the oak brush.

If you don’t reload pick the most accurate ammunition in your rifle with a good elk bullet and buy several boxes. We have a 225 yard target at my house, a 490 yard rock and access to a ranch with a very long range to practice on. When you hit elk vitals size targets regularly at 800 yards those 300 yard shots aren’t a problem. I recommend you practice enough to be comfortable at 400 with the 06 on a paper plate from a field rest, sticks, pack or both - that will make sure if the elk you see is at 350 yards you will be confident.

Finding the elk is usually the hard part naturally after season starts they go to sanctuary in steep terrain or more likely on private ground. I’ve had most success hunting the edges of private. Invest in OnX maps for your phone or GPS to keep on the right side of the law. The work starts when they hit the ground we use the gutless method - YouTube has several examples.

This is good advice.


Also be aware of potential for altitude sickness.

ALTITUDE SICKNESS: The two most serious types of altitude sickness are HAPE (High Altitude Pulmonary Edema) and HACE (High Altitude Cerebral Edema). HAPE is fluid in the lungs and you can self-diagnose it when you feel gurgling in your lungs or pain in the chest. If your breath is condensing and your friends aren't condensing, then you may have fluid in your lungs. HACE is fluid on the brain. You can self-diagnose it when you get dizzy and stay dizzy for more than a couple of minutes. If one of your hunting partners goes unconscious or doesn't wake up in the morning, you need to transport him to lower elevation immediately to save his life. The only effective field remedy for HAPE and HACE requires an item called a Gamow Bag and you won't have one. So DESCEND! DESCEND! DESCEND! Get to lower elevation immediately if you want to live. Fortunately HAPE and HACE are both rare (but not unheard of) below 10,000' elevation.

The most common type and the least severe is AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness). It's often associated with dehydration. Its' symptoms are similar to those of influenza and they may include mild headache, nausea, vomiting, lassitude, loss of appetite, and periodic breathing (waking up gasping for air). Common Aspirin and Tums can help because they coincidentally contains the just the kind of ingredients that your body needs and it is a mild astringent that reduces the effects of dehydration. Diamox is the brand name of a prescription drug that works for some people. Start taking it a couple of days before you begin to ascend. But it doesn't work for everyone and there are some potentially miserable side effects. I’ve heard that chicken soup helps and it can’t hurt. In most cases, if you rest for a couple of days, drink lots of liquids, and take Aspirin and Tums, AMS will subside and you can start enjoying yourself.

The best way to avoid altitude sickness is to ascend slowly, at the rate of 1,000' per day. But you don't have that much time. So get in good shape now. Good shape means strong heart and lungs. Good exercises include running stairs, swimming, bicycling, or any other kind of exercise that works the heart and lungs. However sometimes even the best athletes can get altitude sickness, so don't count on that being the cure all. Get to high elevation a few days early and just lounge around for a few days before you start exerting yourself. Stay hydrated, avoid alcohol and coffee or any other kind of diuretic. Take one Aspirin and one Tums each day. Be alert to the symptoms mentioned and react appropriately if they occur.

Also try to develop a technique called Alpinisti Breathing (pressure breathing). Essentially you consciously make your lungs inhale and exhale before you feel the need to breather heavy, you generate a rhythm between your body effort and your lungs so that you have air before you need it. If you wait until you need the air then it’s too late and you are always out of breath. It’s sometimes called the Rest Step (step-breathe-pause-breathe, step-breathe-pause-breathe, repeat, etc.)

Yes they performed great, never recovered a single round. Several bread-basket shots destroyed vitals. Out of a 300WM. They all stay close and died quick.

A non-typical but memorable one was a smallish 5pt that I shot from below and hit further forward than I should have. It destroyed that lung and exited higher up on the opposite side and crushed a vertebrae on exit, effectively causing an anchoring spine shot. It was a rushed shot and I knew when I pulled the trigger it wasn't a great shot but was none-the-less very effective. During the scramble up to him I remember thinking I must of crushed his shoulder but it turned out I did hit his near-side lung.

I shot them for several seasons because that particular Kimber loved them.

Use the 30-06.

Shoot a 200 grain bullet.

Practice to 300 yards.

At what distance? I'm shooting a 7mm RM, using 120 grain @ 3850 fps. too light for elk????

Not if it's a Barnes 120 grain bullet. Those will saddle-stitch 'em at just about any reasonable distance you'd care to shoot.

You carry an elk rifle more than you shoot it. Which is your lightest rifle?

I absolutely agree with you. The Barnes bullets perform like they were a much heavier bullet. Hunters used to traditional bullet weights have a difficult time understanding how the lighter mono's penetrate. It seems hunters have to actually see them work before they will believe. If my 260 Rem 120gr Barnes @ 3000fps will give complete penetration on a mature elk the 120gr from the 7mm at 3800 will accomplish the same, just faster & flatter. Most of the elk we shoot are under 200yds. Although we make every effort to get as close as possible we have taken two over the years at longer range. One 275 & another at 347yds. An ethical hunter will make every effort to get closer.

The 06 will more than meet the needs you posted, my first 12 elk were killed with the 3006. The 180 Partition, or Accubond would be my bullet, choices. That's field experience talking not book experience. My average shot is somewhere around 300 yards, as I hunt a lot of open country. Not to say I haven't killed a number of them under 50 but most are longer shots cross canyon.

Summarizing what's been said so far:

1. Your 308 and 30-06 are fine.
2. Shoot any good cup and core bullet you like as long as it's from 150 grain in weight on up.
3. Shoot what you've been shooting.
4. Acubond LR will kill an elk as dead as needs be. Then again, pretty much any bullet, well placed, will do that.
5. Get in shape
6. Wear good, well broken in boots
7. have a good pack/ pack frame - unless you are lucky enough to kill one next to a road, you'll be carrying it out on your back
8. Get in shape
9. Get a good pair of 10x40/42 binoculars - Doug and the folks at Cameraland can help you there.
10. Shoot your rifles in field conditions - PRACTICE LOTS and out to range (400 yards or so).

I think I've taken 3 elk over 200 yards. Most have been under that range. Closest(not counting one's taken with a bow) was shot with a 25-06 using partitions at 42 steps. Last elk I took was shot at 137 yards with a 142 gr Acubond LR. Complete pass-through both shoulder blades. Took another shot to convince him he was really dead. That bullet was recovered after passing through 4-5' of elk and weighed 60 gr.
To the above list I would add a couple of things:
1. get a good compass and know how to use it. If a GPS goes tits-up, you'll need it.
2. get the best maps you can find of the area you'll be hunting.
3. Learn how to use the compass with the map. Finding your way back to camp in the dark or in a dense fog or snow storm (or a combination of those) can be nearly impossible without them. (voice of experience here)

My .30-30 Model 94 Winchester is my lightest rifle, but its not even on my list of elk rifles...

This should be a sticky at the top of the elk forum.

What about 30-06 in 165 accubond

Communist Connecticut!

Why not - LOTS of elk have been killed with the 30-30 - and many more probably will be.

30-06 with a 180g partition or a 200g trophy bonded bear claw. I’ve had good luck with these.

What about a .260 with 140 gr factory Corelokts? Worked for me. DRT.

Danged near anything works on danged near anything with proper placement.

Don't over-think it- just shoot 'em right.

Basically because I don't want to use it. My list of elk rifles is the rifles in my safe that I would take out to go elk hunting with, and to me, some of my guns are better choices than others.



True

I've killed a number if mule and whitetail deer with a.22 LR rifle and pistol, but they are not on my list of deer guns.

I have a friend that hunts elk every year with his .22-250. Last year he killed a B&C bull on a DIY hunt in eastern Montana with it. I have killed deer and pronghorn antelope with my .22-250, but it is not on my list of elk rifles.

I killed my second largest 6x6 bull elk with a DRT shot from my .257 Ackley, and if the situation would repeat itself, I would not hesitate to shoot another bull with it, but it is not on my list of elk rifles.

My .30-06/.30 Gibbs that over the years put 29 elk in my freezer is still in my safe, but it is no longer on my list of elk rifles.

I've heard guys say that you need a .375 H&H to kill elk, and undoubtedly elk have been killed with rifles in that cartridge. I've killed African Cape Buffalo and African antelope from the size of 20 lb Steenboks to 1500 lb Eland with my .375 RUM, but that rifle is not on my list of elk rifles.

My gun safe is full of guns that could kill elk (including my .30-30s), but that doesn't put them on my list of elk guns. .

Theek -

I load 168g TTSX for three of my .30-06 rifles, Daughter #1 is using 130g TTSX in her .308 Win. The fourth .30-06 gets 150g AB. Shot a cow with that combo in 2010 and it was on the ground before I recovered from the recoil.



Take what you shoot well.

Twenty years ago we started with 300's and 338's. Now we are down to 270's 308's and the 30-06 as "the heavy".

From your original post, I would be hard pressed to not use the 30-06 and 165gr monometal bullet of some type.

Oh yeah, and all the other great info from above.

3850fps in a 7mm RM? That's 28 Nosler territory.

Sure that isn't a typo?

Never had a fail with 165 TSX or 168 TTSX on mule deer or elk from .30-06 or .300 Wby. Never shot a whitetail with one. I’m inclined to not consider anything lighter than 140 gr in 7mm or 150 in .30s, but that’s just me.