Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Gunsmithing M77 barrel on a Winchester 70

How much work will need to be done in fitting a M77 barrel to a Win 70 push feed? I can pick up a the M77 barrel reasonably priced, locally. Can't find a Win barrel. This is for a 223.

Should be a very easy adaptation. GD

What are the chances of a guy being lucky and just spin it on and it be headspaced correctly? Or will the thread length and shoulder need work?

Zero. Yep.. Breech-to-shoulder distance is short on the M77.. Would need to be lengthened about .030-.035, depending..

What would need to be done to get a CZ527 barrel to fit the M70?

Don't know for certain, but best guess is "start over" since I would bet the CZ threads are metric...

Others?

Just a suggestion, but why not try a M70 barrel??

I can't locate an M70 barrel. As I understand a Sako, tikka or ruger would be the least amount of work for a smith

There is still a fair amount of work involved in zeroing the barrel in, setting back the shoulder on the tenon, clocking the barrel, setting headspace, etc on a used barrel when you start with one from one maker and make it work for a different action. You'd be dollars ahead selling the winchester and getting a Ruger American 223, and won't have to wonder when will the gunsmith finish the job?

If it just has to be built on a Winchester, pull the trigger on a virgin barrel blank and have it done right.

That.. And ya STILL end up with a 'factory' barrel which can (or cannot) give decent accuracy ...(as it should ) And THAT!

I've never understood people pouring more money into a customized rifle to get factory performance when you can just buy a factory rifle to get that level of performance. Now if you have your own lathe and want to try and oddball chambering with a cheap take off barrel, by all means.

As one of the members on the campfire told me when teaching me to make a stock. It takes just as much time to fit a stock made out of firewood as it does a nice piece of wood. Why would you want to waste your time on a junk piece of wood.

It'll be a truck gun, so any decent barrel will do. Don't want to put much $ into it

ERShaw. Reasonably priced for PDG barrels. I've never encountered a "bad" one in the dozen or so rebarrels I've done for folks.

Gotta admit- I've been shot with luck on my own take-off rebarrels. 'Course it helps I can do my own work.

Screwed a 700 stainless TI takeoff .260 (from David Walter - around $100) onto my 725. Lapped lugs, perfect fit, MOA. Stamping is upside down, .....so????

Bought a "Finnish sniper barrel" in .30-06 from Sportsmans Guide, parkerized, for around $100 for my M98. 1 inch groups at 300. It was short-chambered, but that is expected. Truth in advertising? Who knew?

Replaced my hunting partner's ruined 7 Mag , RU77 barrel wijh a $100 takeoff in .338. He gets better accuracy than mine, but then mine is factory, and I had to tweak his chamber just a bit for minimum headspace (on the shoulder) . My neck-sized reloads don't fit in his rifle.... and mine is MOA.

I think I goofed above statement. I set his belt headspace at minimum or slightly below listed- but factory ammo chambers. His shoulder headspaced reloads will chamber in my rifle, but not mine in his without jamming. They CAN be chambered, barely, with force.. clearer?

But then my reamer probably was not used as much as Ruger's, and maybe with minor dimensional diff.....