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I bought myself a nice old J head Bridgeport a while back and I need to get some power to it. I have single phase 220 in the shop but need three phase for the mill. Called the power Co and they said no problem we’ll be right out, no charge. Apparently in the 15 minutes it takes to drive from their office to my place the bill went up from $0 to $1600.

So I need to build a phase converter but I am not by any stretch an electrician. I have a 1hp AC motor for the pony and have two brand new 3 phase motors to use as the generator. My dilemma is that the motor on the mill is a 1hp and the two I have for generators are a 7.5 and a 10hp. Will those be too big? About the second to last thing I want to do is burn up the motor on my mill.

Any help is appreciated, I need to get this thing up and running and making money.

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~~~Told me, "Kid ya better put that old Bridgeport away,
Said, "There ain't no money in it and it'll lead ya to an early grave~~~

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Oh don’t worry Bristoe. I gots me a real job that’ll surely drag me to the grave quickern standing in front of a mill. I play a structural welder for 10 hours a day burning off roll after roll of aromatic flux cored wire. Hacking black sheit in the shower every night makes me wish I was still bitchin about being covered in cutting oil and having chips stuck in my boots.

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There is a whole forum about rotary Phase converters, static phase converters and VFDs over at Practical Machinist.

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Padded VA Hospital Rooms for $1000 Alex

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VFD is the way to go. You should be able to get up and running for a couple hundred bucks.

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As others have said, VFDs are really the only way to go anymore.


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I would spend the 1600 to get true power onsite. With a mill to start, other machines that use 3p are likely behind it.

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The bigger motors are not a problem as you will be making a "bus" . You will need a capacitor to shift the third phase. Let me see if I can find a schematic laying around here somewhere. The VFD route is very doable too these days as the prices are alot cheaper for these now than in the past. You will need to overate them a bit for reliability but they work great. 240 volts is all the voltage you will be able to get sourcing from single phase no matter which method you use so make sure any machines you get are able to wire up to low voltage or have dual voltage motors. 1600 really is not that bad a price though to get it going ..........

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automation direct has the stuff needed for the vfd, give them a call

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A VFD is nice but it is only good for that one machine. you can build a cheap Rotary Phase Converter with any 3phase motor larger than the 1hp on your machine. I would use a 3hp/3ph motor and a start/run unit from either WNY Supply or Anderson. You hook up 220v single phase through a 40amp breaker for the single phase supply and come out of the unit three phase that you can hook up to your BP mill. To run all you have to do is switch the unit on and it starts the motor and it will single phase to produce true three phase power for your machine. The unit has the run capacitors in it to give the third leg full amperage.

It is an easy alternative plus you can hook other machines up to it and run them as well should you get a lathe or other machine needing three phase.

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I agree with the guys saying throw a drive on it, and I do this sheit for a living. Fast, easy, and cheaper to buy AND run. You get another machine, throw a drive on that one too...

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is it possible to just get a single phase 220 motor for your Bridgeport machine ? might be a easier way to go and cheaper ? call the company that made this Bridgeport machine. 3 phase electrical parts get expensive and so do electricians.


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Three phase will run smooth and be better for machining. The Bridgeport motors are proprietary C-face motors. Any other motor single or three phase would have to have a mounting plate to fit the top housing.

A VFD is good if you get the right one and it replaces the switch on your machine plus you can have variable speed from the POT. A RPC will run the whole shop though and you must use the machines as they were designed.

decisions decisions...

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Now I’m really confused. Machine has a VFD on it albeit not as sophisticated asthe one in the video above. It is just a simple looking gray box with a dial and a direction switch. I was under the impression that it was just used for variable speed. It also has a big breaker box with a kill switch on it. I asked the guy I bought it from and he assured me that the way it is now it needs 3 phase run to it. He would be happy to help me hook it up as well if he weren’t 1000 miles away

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All VFD's are not the same.

A single phase VFD that converts to 3 phase is what you need.

That Mill should have a drum switch for fwd/rev and a speed controller.

Toss all that and the VFD takes there place, Just has to be the right VFD.
They are rated by HP so you need a single phase to 3 phase 1 hp VFD.


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Start here..... http://www.gohz.com/1hp-vfd
Price: $159.32

Be sure that programmable module they show detached in their image isn't a option, you want the entire VFD "with" the module....


Just start from this link, there are ton's of products, options, and prices....


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Originally Posted by rainshot
The Bridgeport motors are proprietary C-face motors. Any other motor single or three phase would have to have a mounting plate to fit the top housing.


I don't know if you could do a retro fit with just an adapter plate.
Being, as you stated it's a proprietary motor the shaft is going to be quite unique not just the mounting of a different motor.

But we are talking about machinist here and they can work wonders and sh it cucumbers when it comes to creating custom parts...but he's got to get the mill running first...

I replaced a motor on a mill like that once probably ten years ago, it was a direct change out of a smoked motor.
If I recall correctly the motor cost was over 3 grand.


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Because I have several 3-phase machines I am putting together a rotary phase converter. My vertical mill presently runs just fine on a static phase converter which came with it; these are cheap and provide ~2/3 the hp rating of the motor.


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Here are single phase input, three phase output VFDs of the appropriate voltage and size for as low as $134

https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Shopping/Catalog/Drives#Product__F__Accessory_Type_ms=%22AC+Drives%22&start=0&Nominal_Input_Voltage_s=%22230+VAC%22&Horsepower_With_1_M_Phase_Input_s=%221%22

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I ran a Bridgeport a few years ago with a generic static phase converter on it & it seemed to run great. If I were to buy a mill for home use I'd go that way & as has been said, I'd buy another If I were to add a lathe.
Plans of more machines or high usage, I then might go rotary.

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Originally Posted by TheKid
Now I’m really confused. Machine has a VFD on it albeit not as sophisticated asthe one in the video above. It is just a simple looking gray box with a dial and a direction switch. I was under the impression that it was just used for variable speed. It also has a big breaker box with a kill switch on it. I asked the guy I bought it from and he assured me that the way it is now it needs 3 phase run to it. He would be happy to help me hook it up as well if he weren’t 1000 miles away


If you can find a model number on your VFD, you should be able to look up the specs and figure out what its capable of. In general, they can all run on single phase, but have to be derated somewhat. A VFD internally rectifies the input AC to DC and then electronically creates AC while controlling the output current, voltage, and frequency. The derating is necessary because a three phase bridge rectifier shares the current among more diodes than a single phase rectifier does. If the VFD you have is designed to run on 460V instead of 220 then you are out of luck and it will have to be removed. In that case your motor would also be set up to run on 460 and would have to be re-tapped to the lower voltage.

A good VFD will be more efficient than a rotary converter and gives you the benefit of variable speed. You can even overspeed a motor as long as you don't exceed the power rating.


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I’ll try to take some pictures in a bit and post them and maybe you guys can tell me what I have. The machine retains its drum switch and the J heads are a step pulley so no variable speed adjustment hand wheel. I have videos of it running that the guy sent me before I bought it but I don’t know how to post a video.

I would have been happy enough with just a plain old step pulley mill setup but since it came with the VFD I guess I may as well use it. If it turns out I can’t figure out how to power it on the cheap I’ll pony up for a new VFDI guess. I’d just like to get it up and running to generate some quick cash doing some odds and ends piecework.

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Photos are alway helpful for getting familiar with a project.
That big breaker box you mention with the kill switch on it (disconnect) could easily have a motor contractor in it.

If you are going to post images, get images of the ID plate on the side of your current VFD. Be sure the make and model and any other written data are readable.

There should also be a data plate or maybe two on the motor, get readable images of those.
It wouldn't hurt to open the wire box aka "peckerhead" on the motor and take a photo of that as well.
You should find a small rats nest of wire in there, spread them out a little for the photo. If you see a little sticker on the inside cover of the peckerhead that looks like little lines and numbers, include a photo of that also.


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Okay so here’s what I found after I managed to get the boxes open for a peek inside. Appears to me that the VFD needs 3ph and the smaller box is sort of a remote for lack of a better word.

I’ve looked at the static converters that can be had cheaply, $75 or so. But the fact that it would derate my motor that’s already only a 1hp scares me. I’ve never run any machine and said to myself “I wish I had less power” but I’ve said the opposite on many occasions.

https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbt...eries/12729158/electric-gadgets#comments

I’m sorry I can’t seem to figure out the image posting deal since the change

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Humm.

Well, it's a remote for sure. Musta been handier for him than using the controls on the drive.
Sure added a lot of wire to the job though.
If you buy a new drive and want to keep the remote, you'll have a good bit more wire to land.

It's actually a nice set-up but for the life of me I don't know what he is using the Rino 24v power supply for thats installed beside the drive.. The drive is 24/10v dc controlled but it should create it's own dc control power. I'd love to see where he landed that red and white wire that disappears behind the cover on the drive.

Without the data info on the drive there is still some guessing.
If you were to take more pictures pop that top and bottom cover off the front of the drive so we can see the wire up. Open the remote box for a photo too so we can see the control wire up thats been done.

A 7 1/2 hp drive for a one hp motor isn't alway a good thing. I've had some that would not allow me to dial the max amps down low enough for suitable motor protection on a way smaller motor without going into fault.

We'll assume the motor is wired for 230v service since the drive is 230v but I always like to open the pecker head to check and make sure, but thats up to you.

Jerryv sounds like a pretty sharp guy, he said ANY VFD could run off single phase input. I've never done that. The de-rating he spoke of I took as you would have to de-rate the drive, if thats the case your in good shape with the 7 1/2hp drive.

It'd be worth waiting him out and giving it a try, not having any experience doing that I would be guessing at how to wire it up. but if it works you're home free.




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Go download this users manual

https://cdn.automationdirect.com/static/manuals/gs2m/gs2m.pdf

As long as you own the drive you might as well own the users manual........

It's only 190 pages of mind boggling schit...:-)
.
.
.

Now, an hour after I made this post, I've read the manual..

Looks like your drive is probably a GS2-27P5
This manual covers over a dozen different models.

It's going to suck of you can't use this drive, it's a good one
and the manual is rather straight forward and written in a form
that makes it pretty easy to find the data you'll need.
I'm keeping my fingers crossed that Jerryv is able to walk you
through the wire-up but I'm not liking what I am reading about
your particular model drive and single phase input.


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I've used a 3 phase drive with a single phase input more that once with no issue. Here is a pretty good reference for derating.

http://www.dartcontrols.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/De-Rating-VFD-for-Single-Phase-Power.pdf

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Your motor nameplate is 3.3 amps at 230 volts.
Using the derate value of 1.73 x 3.3 amps gives you a new amperage protection max of 5.709....lets call it 6 amps....looks doable with a single phase source


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Originally Posted by win7stw
I've used a 3 phase drive with a single phase input more that once with no issue. Here is a pretty good reference for derating.

http://www.dartcontrols.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/De-Rating-VFD-for-Single-Phase-Power.pdf


Great info, very helpful.

I've never been in the situation to need to consider this as an option.
Always been in industrial environments where 3 phase 480v is normal and every job spec'ed out to precise detail.

Quite impressed with the knowledge base on this topic here at the Fire...
That being said, I'm going to throw down with what I think he needs to do, anyone seeing error in my ways please chime in, I don't claim to know it all.

++++++++++++++++

First off, it appears your drive will be rated suitably for the job, lucky you this guy put a 7.5 hp drive in to run a 1 hp motor.
Your incoming power from your shops source is going to connect to the breaker in the top right hand corner of the box your drive is in.
The breaker is 3 pole for 3 phase application, you are just going to connect 2 wires to it. Connect them to L1 and L2.

On the bottom of that breaker there are five wires. Three red and two black.
Remove the red wire from T3 (the far right hand tap) and chase it to the drive and remove it from there also.
It "should be" connected to L3 on the drive when you go to remove it.

Now the smaller black wire that is currently connected to T3 on the Breaker needs to be moved to T1 on the Breaker. This is what he is powering the Rino 24v power supply with. I don't know what it does but it doesn't matter, just connect it .

Now you should have two red wires leaving the bottom of your breaker (T1 and T2) that connect to L1 and L2 on your drive and no wire in L3. The two small black wires also connected to T1 and T2 on your breaker that connect to the Rino 24v power supply.

If that's how it looks, you're ready to throw the switch and see what happens. I would remove the belt so you are just turning the motor and not the machine for the test run.....

Don't be too surprised if the drive goes into a fault. You might have to tweak a parameter or two due to the de-rating of the drive. I just don't want to get into that part if you don't have to. It should be good to go the way the guy was running it..

You have the manual with all the fault codes and parameter setting explained so it's no big deal if you have the need.





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It looks like they were running 230v three phase input and using two legs of that to run through a control circuit breaker and feed a 24v dc control power supply (the Rhino). If you do try to run this from single phase to keep the same setup as before you would need to make sure you were feeding the power supply from the same two legs as your input power then the existing control they were using before should work without any changes. If what I am seeing in the pic is truly this way bring in your single phase legs to L1 and L2 terminals at the top of your disconnect switch. Move the black wire on T3 terminal (bottom of disconnect switch) to T1 (bottom of disconnect switch). If what I am seeing is correct you should be able to power up at this point and check voltages before trying to run the drive. Make sure the toggle switch is in the OFF position. If the drive upon power up does not fault when applying single phase power this may work out for you....


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Originally Posted by akasparky
Originally Posted by win7stw
I've used a 3 phase drive with a single phase input more that once with no issue. Here is a pretty good reference for derating.

http://www.dartcontrols.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/De-Rating-VFD-for-Single-Phase-Power.pdf


Great info, very helpful.

I've never been in the situation to need to consider this as an option.
Always been in industrial environments where 3 phase 480v is normal and every job spec'ed out to precise detail.

Quite impressed with the knowledge base on this topic here at the Fire...
That being said, I'm going to throw down with what I think he needs to do, anyone seeing error in my ways please chime in, I don't claim to know it all.

++++++++++++++++

First off, it appears your drive will be rated suitably for the job, lucky you this guy put a 7.5 hp drive in to run a 1 hp motor.
Your incoming power from your shops source is going to connect to the breaker in the top right hand corner of the box your drive is in.
The breaker is 3 pole for 3 phase application, you are just going to connect 2 wires to it. Connect them to L1 and L2.

On the bottom of that breaker there are five wires. Three red and two black.
Remove the red wire from T3 (the far right hand tap) and chase it to the drive and remove it from there also.
It "should be" connected to L3 on the drive when you go to remove it.

Now the smaller black wire that is currently connected to T3 on the Breaker needs to be moved to T1 on the Breaker. This is what he is powering the Rino 24v power supply with. I don't know what it does but it doesn't matter, just connect it .

Now you should have two red wires leaving the bottom of your breaker (T1 and T2) that connect to L1 and L2 on your drive and no wire in L3. The two small black wires also connected to T1 and T2 on your breaker that connect to the Rino 24v power supply.

If that's how it looks, you're ready to throw the switch and see what happens. I would remove the belt so you are just turning the motor and not the machine for the test run.....

Don't be too surprised if the drive goes into a fault. You might have to tweak a parameter or two due to the de-rating of the drive. I just don't want to get into that part if you don't have to. It should be good to go the way the guy was running it..

You have the manual with all the fault codes and parameter setting explained so it's no big deal if you have the need.






Oops you beat me to it....


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Originally Posted by akasparky
Originally Posted by win7stw
I've used a 3 phase drive with a single phase input more that once with no issue. Here is a pretty good reference for derating.

http://www.dartcontrols.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/De-Rating-VFD-for-Single-Phase-Power.pdf


Great info, very helpful.

I've never been in the situation to need to consider this as an option.
Always been in industrial environments where 3 phase 480v is normal and every job spec'ed out to precise detail.




I am an industrial electrician myself. A couple or our remotes sights only have single phase. I've been forced to go this route after our engineers just assume everyplace has 480.

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I have tried all the routes myself. Right now I am running an Anderson RPC. I had a static one for a mill and it cut the power significantly and ultimately burned up the motor. I converted another Bridgeport to a DC motor with a variable drive on it- I have 2 this way now. My bigger lathe has the RPC which is 10 hp and the lathe is 6 hp.

My one attempt at using a VFD made smoke and no worky so I gave up on that idea. A 10 hp 3phase motor will work for what you want but will use more power than is needed and therefore not as efficient.

I wish I could get 3 phase to my shop for $1600!!


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Originally Posted by dennisinaz


My one attempt at using a VFD made smoke and no worky so I gave up on that idea.


Yep, ya gotta keep the smoke inside if ya want it to run, it's an electrical requirement.


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Guys thanks for all the help. I’m going to see if I can get a friend to come over and see if we can get this thing going here soon. If he sees something wrong or it doesn’t power up like it should I will probably go ahead and put together a RPC since it would be nearly free since I got all the motors for free.

The two 3ph motors are Baldors my Grandad had as spares when he owned the grain elevator here in town. They’re brand new but he sold the elevator in 79 or 80 so they’ve been sitting a while. They don’t go bad, do they?

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Originally Posted by TheKid
Guys thanks for all the help. I’m going to see if I can get a friend to come over and see if we can get this thing going here soon. If he sees something wrong or it doesn’t power up like it should I will probably go ahead and put together a RPC since it would be nearly free since I got all the motors for free.

The two 3ph motors are Baldors my Grandad had as spares when he owned the grain elevator here in town. They’re brand new but he sold the elevator in 79 or 80 so they’ve been sitting a while. They don’t go bad, do they?


If they have been setting that long spin them by hand and listen to the bearings for noise. They can just set there and rust all to hell.

I'd get the motors in a very dry environment for an extended period of time, again due to possible dampness in the windings. 40 years of sitting around could have resulted in the windings getting damp and just corroding away.

Have the faith in the VFD, you'll be way ahead if it works out and at this point I don't see any real reason it shouldn't.


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Originally Posted by TheKid
Guys thanks for all the help. I’m going to see if I can get a friend to come over and see if we can get this thing going here soon. If he sees something wrong or it doesn’t power up like it should I will probably go ahead and put together a RPC since it would be nearly free since I got all the motors for free.

The two 3ph motors are Baldors my Grandad had as spares when he owned the grain elevator here in town. They’re brand new but he sold the elevator in 79 or 80 so they’ve been sitting a while. They don’t go bad, do they?


I agree with others that it is odd to have a 7.5hp unit on a 1 hp motor, but if it worked before, it should still work. Since it is so oversize, it should have no problem with single phase unless it is set up to detect a missing leg. I also am puzzled like others on the purpose of the 24VDC supply. Looking at the manual a little, it doesn't look like it should be needed for the VFD. Perhaps it is intended for something else. Without seeing the rest of the wiring, there is no way of telling. Pictures of the VFD with the top and bottom terminal covers off might help. It looks like the power comes in the top and goes to the motor from the bottom, but there are other inputs and outputs that also have terminals under the bottom cover.

One thing I would recommend is that you scroll through the parameters and write them down. If you should ever need to replace it or send it in for repair, you will need to reload them and it could save a lot of time and aggravation. BTDT.

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Them gasoline cars will never catch on, steam is where it is at

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Hey Jerry,
Thanks for your suggestion, it obviously lead to another poster offering some data and yada yada yada the rest is history.

That little power supply I'd wager is connected to one of the dry contacts on the VFD, its use could be something as innocent as turning on a run light or whatever.

Still, I wanted to reach into that image and lift those covers off to see what was going on with it......:-)


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Originally Posted by renegade50
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I’ll stroll out to the shop and snap a pic with the covers up. I opened them last night but didn’t know what I was looking at aside from a snarl of wires. Not sure why I didn’t shoot a pic of them open

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Open the remote box too and get a shot, I got a feeling that 24v dc power is going to end up there.


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Here’s the VFD wiring.
https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/galleries/12731645#Post12731645

I have a picture of the inside of the remote box too, I’ll have to get it in the image gallery in a bit

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Yep, pretty basic, just like a guy would figure.

The 24v wire I have been questioning is just outta curiosity. It is landed right where I thought it'd be, on a dry contact.
It's nothing but a relay. The 24v is going into R1 and when the drive starts, the relay closes and it comes out on R10 then heads over to you remote in one of those large gray wires ...but whats it do once it gets there?? inquiring minds wanna know....

D1 is your forward power and D2 is Reverse, DMC is their power source, they will all be landed on the selector switch in the remote.
That's not a drum switch, big difference, the original Mill would have had a drum switch, they have taken it off when they installed the VFD and put in the selector switch.

AI, +10V and ACM are all three connected to your speed control knob aka POT switch (potentiometer).

I'm sure you were just dying to know all of that...lol.
But the guy you have coming over to help you might have a question or two.......

Good Luck!


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Looks like On - Off Forward/Reverse and external potentiometer control....


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The big drum switch is still on the machine too it has a wire that runs into the VFD box on it. But I feel like I will need to just turn it on and leave it, using the remote for the VFD as my on off switch, correct?

I was excited to get all the extras with the machine as I’ve never run a Bridgeport with any of this stuff on it but have had newer import machines with similar features. I’m hoping to get it figured out and get the learning curve on it pretty soon, sometimes all the technology drives me nuts.

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Here’s a couple shots of the inside of thw remote and one of the whole machine before it was torn down and crated for shipping.
https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/galleries/12731844#Post12731844

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Originally Posted by TheKid
The big drum switch is still on the machine too it has a wire that runs into the VFD box on it. But I feel like I will need to just turn it on and leave it, using the remote for the VFD as my on off switch, correct?

I was excited to get all the extras with the machine as I’ve never run a Bridgeport with any of this stuff on it but have had newer import machines with similar features. I’m hoping to get it figured out and get the learning curve on it pretty soon, sometimes all the technology drives me nuts.


Thats a nice setup Kid I am sure you will enjoy it. Keeping it variable speed will be nice with the step pulley. I can't tell but if the motor leads do run through the original For/Rev switch it is a good idea to leave it in one position as a lot of drives do not do well if the output power is opened. If so then yes use the remote switch.
I did notice that the drive manual does not recommend your model as single phase input...... Note* 28?

Only models GS2-10P2, GS2-10P5,
GS2-11P0, GS2-20P5, GS2-21P0,
GS2-22P0, and GS2-23P0 are rated for
1-phase input power

The 24 vdc may be going to the DRO????

Good luck with this and if you find you will be going with a different VFD let me know as I have a Clausing I could run this on....Dana


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Originally Posted by okie

I did notice that the drive manual does not recommend your model as single phase input...... Note* 28?

Only models GS2-10P2, GS2-10P5,
GS2-11P0, GS2-20P5, GS2-21P0,
GS2-22P0, and GS2-23P0 are rated for
1-phase input power



Thats why the drive had to be derated....
From what I have read no drives over 3hp are rated to do what we are doing here with out derating.

The other issue we are hoping we slide by is if the drive has phase loss detection.
Some do some don't.
If it does its going to know there is no line three and go into phase loss fault.

We have had some really good knowledge input here but still counting on a little bit of luck...


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Originally Posted by renegade50
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Originally Posted by TheKid
The big drum switch is still on the machine too it has a wire that runs into the VFD box on it. But I feel like I will need to just turn it on and leave it, using the remote for the VFD as my on off switch, correct?


Idunno, it's kind of a groaner...
We'll fall back to, if it was working the way he had it all should be well.

A drum switch reverses electrical phases in a three phase application.
Reversing any two phases changes motor direction.
Lets say in forward, the motor is running with the three electric phases in L1/L2/L3 order. Flip the drum switch to reverse and now you are in L3/L2/L1 order.

If the drum switch was functioning with the VFD installed it has to be between the VFD and the Motor.
If it is installed between the VFD and the power source it wouldn't have changed the motor direction.
A VFD don't care what order the incoming power is in, it doesn't effect the output side of it.

Prior to the VFD installation there was some sorta motor contactor/starter and the drum switch could have been on either side of it and worked.

You don't have no Line 3 on your incoming side anymore with the single phase power.
"IF" the drum switch is between the incoming power source and the drive and "IF" you flip the drum switch it'll probably just shut down.......lets hope.....drives and finicky they don't like weird schit.

Probably nothing to be concerned of and the drum switch is installed between the VFD and the motor.

I don't take anything for granted, who knows how the last guy wired it and why.

That being said, I'm gonna take it for granted the 24v dc power supply powers up your DRO.
Oh hold it, I'm a electrician not a machinist, I'm not suppose to know what a DRO is:-)

But something deep down inside of me is saying that big fancy illuminated touch pad thingy that looks so outta place on that old machine is gonna light up like a Christmas tree when that VFD engages. Sino DRO 's are DC powered, so I'm just guessin'.
Does that thing have a power feed too?

I'm glad you have some local help for this, I know a lot of welders and the only wire they ever mess with comes outta their mig power feed...........


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Originally Posted by renegade50
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Yes, I would just leave the drum switch in the position shown in the picture. The motor power probably still goes through it.

It looks like it was set up for drilling. Is that some sort of quick change setup in place of the normal collets and drawbar?

Hopefully you got the vice with it. That looks like a good heavy duty one.


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The attachment on top is a pneumatic drawbar. No power feed unfortunately and I didn’t get the vise with it. I plan to buy a vise with an indexable base anyway. I have both the standard drawbar and the extended one for the pneumatic, I’ll run it with the standard until I can get my big compressor going. I also got a coolant system with it as well as a full set of R8 and R25 collets and holders.

The machine had new bearings put in the top end about two years ago and has very little runout. Amazingly I bought it with all the accessories and had it shipped from the east coast for about half of what a clapped out one with no tooling brings out here.

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