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That 190gr LRAB should still be considered. Lots of good choices out there. I've used that bullet to kill several elk and deer from ranges of 80 yds out to 500 yds. No complaints what-so-ever.

I do like 165-180 gr in 30 caliber though.

you do not say what rifles the 308 and 30-06 are respectively. which have the better scope or trigger or? ....; I have killed quite a few with 30-06 and I like it. several with 165s and 180s. one with a 150 hornady interbond. I would maybe try the hornady eld-x. Ron

That would mean I should bring my 25-06. That is my favorite rifle. I have never hunted with it though and think it might be a bit light for elk.

Both are Remington 700s. The 30-06 is a BDL model (blued 22" barrel and wood stock) and the 308 is a stainless SPS model (synthetic stock and 24" stainless barrel). Both have Leupold 4-12x40 scopes.

I've used both. I 'donated' my 8x32 to some poor yute in Kansas City last year. I had been using the 8x32 for the last 4-5 years, left the 10x42 in the safe. This year I'm using the 10x42. I really like the lightweight 8x32 but will try the 10x42 this year. If they are unweidly I'll be back to the 8x binos.....

IMO there are better returns on investment to spend money on if you are planning on regular elk hunts. The rifles you have are very appropriate for the task. I'd spend the new gun money on the getting/upgrading the 3Bs: binocs, backpack, boots. They have more of an influence on the hunt than a change in rifle would.

+100

Especially boots, mainly because my feet have been problematic for me. All of this other stuff won't matter if you can't walk. I'd extrapolate and say spend time/money on getting in shape, buy high quality boots (may cost $3-400.....), then go backpack, then binos. I'd buy a used Kifaru, Mystery Ranch (with new frame), Stone Glacier, or EXO. I'd try them and pick whichever fits the best. I'd still call Doug on binos if you don't want to do Alpha glass. Minox may have been mentioned before 😎

Boots, boots, boots, ...

Oh, and bullets.

If there is one thing that I have enough of, it's footwear. I'm like a woman in that regard.

Timber: Could you tell me more about those Long Range Accubonds? Did they perform well on the elk that you killed. Where were they hit? Pass-through? Thanks

And he's back to rifle gack. I too used to, and still do at times, spend too much time/thought/energy on the rifle stuff than the other, more important stuff because it's fun. A couple of hunts may cure one a bit of that...

Kind of partial to 30-06 and 180gr Hornady BTSPs myself.

I have Eberlestock and KUIU packs. Are you saying they won't be up to the task? If I need another pack, I'll get one. I have a bunch of quality boots: Kentrek Hardscrabble, Lowa Tibet Superwarm, American Made Danners, etc.

I think I might try the Meopta MeoPro binoculars. They seem to get good reviews and are not outrageously expensive.

Great picture!

A public flogging with 20 lashes to my proof reader!

I think you will be fine with the .308 or the '06. I have used both cartridges successfully. The regular Accubonds or Partitions in 165 and 180 grain respectively.

The .308 loads used 150 Power Points or 165 grain Sierra Boattails. If anything they dropped elk faster than the .338. I was naiive I guess.

The '06 was loaded with 180 gr Partitions. I carried TBBC too but my current favorite rifle prefers Partitions.

Take your 308 since its stainless and you'll likely endure weather in elk country. Your set for boots, pack and other kit it sounds like. Can never have too many pairs of darn tough socks however. Whatever 165-180 grain game bullet shoots consistently well is your new elk round. I sold my swaro 10x42's and replaced them with Leica trinivoid 8x42's... They're less than $1k and absolutely fantastic binos and I much prefer them to my much more costly former Swarovski binos.

30-06 as backup. All things being equal in terms of accuracy of the two 30 cals you have and assuming you're equally proficient with them I think the short action 308 with longer barrel might help with target float if you're shooting in windy conditions due to the forward weight distribution. Also, keep the wood and blued gun nice.

Binos first, then lots of trigger time, hiking under load, studying maps and google earth, tags and vacation time etc, then consider a compact spotting scope. Then possibly new rifle glass.

Any of the cals you mentioned will work with the proper bullet. I am a 6.5 shooter. For many years we have been using the 6.5x308, 260Rem , 6.5x55 & the 264 mag. Using the Barnes 120gr X & now the TSX They all work giving complete penetration & one shot kills using the Barnes 120gr TSX or TTSX. We have never recovered one of these bullets & have never lost an elk. We take one to two elk each season. ..A friend uses a 270 with the Barnes 130gr TSX with the same results. Another friend uses his 308 with the Barnes 130gr which also gives complete penetration. These mono copper make a huge difference. . Remember it is a " TOUGH DEEP PENETRATING" bullet " PROPERLY PLACED" . This always works.

If you really want an excuse to buy a new rifle I wouldn’t talk you out of it. I’ve used 30-06 7mm and now carry a 300 Weatherby with the Zeiss HD5 Z800 reticle as my dedicated elk gun. They all worked fine but the 300 really shines at longer ranges across canyon shots. Where we hunt most of the time is fairly open so the average shot is just under 300 yards the farthest I’ve killed one is 550 in almost 0 wind conditions. We have 2 hunters using 30-06 with 150 grain Barnes TTSX hand loads at about 3000 FPS and one shooting 180 grain TTSX factory in his 06 as well as a 300 Win and another Weatherby all of them kill elk just fine. I’d pick a Tikka 300WSM with a good scope if I were starting out today with no elk rifle at all but wouldn’t hesitate to use an 06 if that was in the safe.

Your gear is fine for elk hunting and you should be in ok shape arriving at altitudes earlier helps but who has that time. Stick with the 06 if you shoot it well or 308 with good bullets. The Meopta Bono’s are nice I’d go with 10x42 Meostar it’s as close to alpha as you get and can be the difference in a shoot or pass decision that means meat or no meat. I use the Swarovski SLC 10x42 but it took me 10 sets of binoculars to get there they are really terrific at resolving that eye guard at 350 yards in the oak brush.

If you don’t reload pick the most accurate ammunition in your rifle with a good elk bullet and buy several boxes. We have a 225 yard target at my house, a 490 yard rock and access to a ranch with a very long range to practice on. When you hit elk vitals size targets regularly at 800 yards those 300 yard shots aren’t a problem. I recommend you practice enough to be comfortable at 400 with the 06 on a paper plate from a field rest, sticks, pack or both - that will make sure if the elk you see is at 350 yards you will be confident.

Finding the elk is usually the hard part naturally after season starts they go to sanctuary in steep terrain or more likely on private ground. I’ve had most success hunting the edges of private. Invest in OnX maps for your phone or GPS to keep on the right side of the law. The work starts when they hit the ground we use the gutless method - YouTube has several examples.

This is good advice.


Also be aware of potential for altitude sickness.

ALTITUDE SICKNESS: The two most serious types of altitude sickness are HAPE (High Altitude Pulmonary Edema) and HACE (High Altitude Cerebral Edema). HAPE is fluid in the lungs and you can self-diagnose it when you feel gurgling in your lungs or pain in the chest. If your breath is condensing and your friends aren't condensing, then you may have fluid in your lungs. HACE is fluid on the brain. You can self-diagnose it when you get dizzy and stay dizzy for more than a couple of minutes. If one of your hunting partners goes unconscious or doesn't wake up in the morning, you need to transport him to lower elevation immediately to save his life. The only effective field remedy for HAPE and HACE requires an item called a Gamow Bag and you won't have one. So DESCEND! DESCEND! DESCEND! Get to lower elevation immediately if you want to live. Fortunately HAPE and HACE are both rare (but not unheard of) below 10,000' elevation.

The most common type and the least severe is AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness). It's often associated with dehydration. Its' symptoms are similar to those of influenza and they may include mild headache, nausea, vomiting, lassitude, loss of appetite, and periodic breathing (waking up gasping for air). Common Aspirin and Tums can help because they coincidentally contains the just the kind of ingredients that your body needs and it is a mild astringent that reduces the effects of dehydration. Diamox is the brand name of a prescription drug that works for some people. Start taking it a couple of days before you begin to ascend. But it doesn't work for everyone and there are some potentially miserable side effects. I’ve heard that chicken soup helps and it can’t hurt. In most cases, if you rest for a couple of days, drink lots of liquids, and take Aspirin and Tums, AMS will subside and you can start enjoying yourself.

The best way to avoid altitude sickness is to ascend slowly, at the rate of 1,000' per day. But you don't have that much time. So get in good shape now. Good shape means strong heart and lungs. Good exercises include running stairs, swimming, bicycling, or any other kind of exercise that works the heart and lungs. However sometimes even the best athletes can get altitude sickness, so don't count on that being the cure all. Get to high elevation a few days early and just lounge around for a few days before you start exerting yourself. Stay hydrated, avoid alcohol and coffee or any other kind of diuretic. Take one Aspirin and one Tums each day. Be alert to the symptoms mentioned and react appropriately if they occur.

Also try to develop a technique called Alpinisti Breathing (pressure breathing). Essentially you consciously make your lungs inhale and exhale before you feel the need to breather heavy, you generate a rhythm between your body effort and your lungs so that you have air before you need it. If you wait until you need the air then it’s too late and you are always out of breath. It’s sometimes called the Rest Step (step-breathe-pause-breathe, step-breathe-pause-breathe, repeat, etc.)

Yes they performed great, never recovered a single round. Several bread-basket shots destroyed vitals. Out of a 300WM. They all stay close and died quick.

A non-typical but memorable one was a smallish 5pt that I shot from below and hit further forward than I should have. It destroyed that lung and exited higher up on the opposite side and crushed a vertebrae on exit, effectively causing an anchoring spine shot. It was a rushed shot and I knew when I pulled the trigger it wasn't a great shot but was none-the-less very effective. During the scramble up to him I remember thinking I must of crushed his shoulder but it turned out I did hit his near-side lung.

I shot them for several seasons because that particular Kimber loved them.