Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Ask The Gunwriters DYNA-TEK Bore Coat instructions revised

[quote=Bugger]MD's write up in the latest Rifle magazine is a very worthwhile read. e]
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You mean that there are still stores that sell gun rags? Which ones?

I DBC a new barrel and shoot it, don't worry about break in protocols.

Seems to work well.

DF

I always wonder what "proper" break-in means, since every technique I've read about varies somewhat.

After two or three shoot/clean cycles, the DBC treated bore gets even easier to clean. I never use a brush following DBC, just soak with a good cleaner like Wipe Out.

I have premium barrels so treated that just about don't foul. I'll see some carbon residue, minimal to no copper fouling and that's thru the Hawkeye.

DBC is really good stuff.

I'm a believer, if you can't tell...

DF

+1

All I know is the stuff works. My primary elk rifle is a 1968 Sako 338 with a Bofors steel barrel. Before DBC you could open your own copper mine in it after a shooting session. Did the DBC trick using the old instructions and clean up is a breeze. Shot it this weekend and after this fall's elk hunt and this weekend's shooting it was time. 2 hours with Wipe Out and three patches had her clean as a whistle. Love DBC.

TAG

Just bought a new T3 (not T3x), I'll try this before I shoot it.




P

yep each manufacture has a different method.

And each gunsmith--and some barrel makers and gunsmiths say it isn't necessary.

Plus, I do know a couple of custom gunsmiths who list a break-in technique on their website, even though they don't believe it's necessary. But so many of their customers kept asking about a break-in technique--with many getting huffy when the 'smiths said it wasn't necessary--that they finally caved, just to avoid answering phone calls and e-mails that often ended up in arguments with their customers.

How does one know if it helped, hurt or was a waste of time and components?

I remember back in the 1990s Gale McMillan ranting on the young internet about the idiocy of barrel break in.

I remember Richard Feynman explaining scientific method and what is a controlled experiment.

I remember a pinned thread on Snipers Hide
https://forum.snipershide.com/threads/objective-research-on-barrel-break-in-procedures.27321/
But in all those pages, I cannot find any controlled experiments.

I know how to work as a consulting engineer and I know how to hire and supervise engineers.
I own zillions of rifles and barrels I put on them from Hart, Lilja, Shilen, Bartlein, Krieger, PacNor, Lothar Walther, Benchmark, etc.
If I were my own boss, I would fire me for not being able to quantitatively demonstrate how Moly is helping or hurting me over the last 16 years.
I would also be fired for a lot of other accuracy related rituals that I can only justify with a hunch.

The trouble is that controlled experiments in accuracy take too much time, money, effort, and skill for the individual.
Even if we did that, individual human beings are not very logical:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Selection_bias

Lets just put this to rest here is how you do barrel break in

Whatever pleases you at the time...personally I have never bothered.

Just DBC’d a new Bartlein 2 days ago, before the first bullet ever went down the tube...

Standard procedure here too.

Bugger,

I see you just posted this the other day. What issue of Rifle are you referring too as they come a month or more in advance of the month on the cover it seems. March issue I have has his article on "Parts Rifles".

Thanks in advance for your help.


OOPS. My bad, I found the issue in question, arrived the other day with other stuff and got overlooked. As this lady was fond of saying:



Geno

Took me a while on Google to find the article.
I don't disagree with any of it.
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0...break_in_barrels.pdf?5242045189986305547

My system [loosly based on Walt Berger's system 18 years ago] is:
1) Moly coat the bullets, not in a medium, but in a plastic container put in the Thumler's Tumbler.
2) Bore coat the barrels and fire them a few times.
3) Clean bore with powder solvent on a patch.
4) Dry patch
5) KG12 on a patch
6) wait 5 minutes
7) Dry patch.
8) 20 strokes (Kroil and Flitz) or (Witches Brew) on a bronze brush (of diameter greater than groove diameter, check brush diameter often.)
9) wait 5 minutes
10) 20 strokes (Kroil and Flitz) or (Witches Brew) on a bronze brush (of diameter greater than groove diameter, check brush diameter often.)
11) Alcohol on a patch
12) dry patch
13) Inspect bore at muzzle with magnification and a light.
14) If an Copper is seen return to step 5), if perfectly clean return to shooting

My system does not have believe in break in to do it.

After cleaning and prior to applying Dyna-Tek bore coat do any of you patch with alcohol or another light solvent to remove residual traces of cleaning solvents/solutions?

I have tried with Google to find any mention that "DynaTek Bore Coat Alcohol Cleaner" is anything other than alcohol, and I cannot.

I have been using alcohol in the bore as the last step in getting a clean bore since I started applying moly on the bore in 1999 ~ 2001.