Home Forums Lever Action Central Marlin Talk The WWG Bearproof Ejector

Some info for y’all from another place and time:

Concerning the issue and my findings. I think the best of the best is to put a bevel on the factory one so it eleminates any override causing a possible case jam, put a lttle JB weld where the springs meet, file the excess jb weld so the ejector fits back in the receiver. I have found at least two different factory ejectors that differ in specs enough to cause case override problems described by “Pitchy” in the below quote.

(44Willie) I personally like the WWG trigger and while the factory ejector may be good enough if you don't have a "Problem looking for a solution" but I'm not against these things. I also think this info below is spot on.

Quote from Pitchy on "another site":


"The shoulder on the bear proof ejector is set back a little further which allows for a slightly longer over-all total length of the bullet. At least that`s what i figure the reason would be.
Plus they beveled the top edge on the front end so the case rides up over it if need be. My factory ejector did that which caused a hang up, I filed a bevel on it also

I think gun shy would be the word here, some of the later Remlin guns are far from perfect and have had a lot of problems. One of mine the case would catch the very end of the ejector and would tip the nose of the bullet up against the chamber causing a hang-up. That is when i put a bear proof in it and after seeing how they beveled the nose of the ejector and doing that to my factory one it worked fine.

I agree if the gun was put together right and works like it should out of the box leave it along unless ya feel better carry ping extra parts. Better to have a replacement part if ya need it than to be sitting there in bear country wishing ya would of carried some extra parts.

I have a lot of other guns that I don`t have spare parts for and never thought about it but these new Marlins have made me cautious"

Ordered a WWG large lever for one of my Cowboys that I figure I can move to the other "blued" versions. Since I paid $20 for shipping, thought I may as well add the Bear Proof and a Happy Trigger since I would probably "want" one right after I put my order in. Same feeling I had when I previously ordered a stainless loop.

Seems like it would take quite a force to break the factory ejector, but insurance is insurance. Bear Proof appears to be Bomb Proof. Appears to be a good square surface to fit the groove on the bolt.

BTW, getting around 2 1/2 lb pull on the trigger. Keeps you from putting a gloved finger on the trigger...for sure! So far, am liking my 3 1/2 lb stock trigger, better.

Personally I think the Founder of WWG got one of those diff spec ones like I found and it was causing a case override and maybe forced it causing it to come apart. But when the factory ejectors are functioning correctly I’ve had the pieces seperate but still function in the rifle. Thats why I was saying you could put some JB weld where it goes together. I drilled a small hole in my buttstocks and each one contains a factory ejector.

I have one in my guide gun. I bought the GG from a guy online and he took ejector out when he shipped it and it got lost somehow. Anyway I couldn't find a marlin one so I bought the WWG one and it works perfectly

Sometimes they need some tweaking though.

Pics of the two different Marlin factor ejectors and the reason some folk have jamming or case override issues

What rifles are the ejectors from?

Both of these came from 444 Marlins. I’ve handled thousands of older Marlins in other calibers and found several cases where they had one of the different ejectors. I was only expecting to find them in 444’s since I’ve seen everything from lifter flippers to several different specs of lifters in 444’s over the years. Seems to cause the most problems with 444 and 45/70 concerning case override jams.