Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Optics Glue the Talley's

lol

Thank you for bringing some levity to a simple thread that was trying to turn off course.

Exactly what I had in mind and thought maybe it might be fun to ask anyway. Besides most questions here will usually prove entertaining as well as kicked up a few experiences.

Thanks men.
Jim

Brad, you did not. Just explained how you do it, which happens to be a little different.

Sounds good to me! Have not considered using JB weld to make a monolithic mount to receiver, actually been trying to avoid this happening! I use it to bed and take up imperfections, too scared I will never be able to get it apart!

The last ones I've been doing with JB weld,I've put release agent on the receiver and in the receiver holes. No release agent in the mount screws means that the screw holes means the screws won't back out regardless. Just a little heat on the base screws will remove the bases and the receiver and receiver screw holes will be clean.

You guys that do this, do you see a advantage???

No different than what I have done for probably 30 years
It works

Judman, I definitely see an advantage. But, I would definitely NOT use release agent on the receiver. I want a strong bond between the base and receiver. That's the advantage. If you drop your rifle, and we all know it does happen, you don't have to worry about that epoxied base (or ring/mount) moving slightly, in relation to the receiver. If the rifle is dropped, something else may move but the relationship between base (or ring/mount) and receiver is one thing that you won't have to worry about. And as far as removing the bases later on if you desire, I've done that too. Remove the barreled action, put it in a vise. Heat the base with a heat gun and give it a tap with hammer with a piece of wood against the base. Very simple. With the epoxy softened with heat, it can be scraped off the receiver using an old credit card, without harming the receivers finish, blued or stainless. Residuals cand be cleaned off with brake cleaner.

I also jig ring/mounts using a virgin lapping bar and gluing them to the receiver with the bar attached for perfect ring alignment.

For 2 piece weaver or Pic bases I use as perfect (as I can find) set of scope rings (TPS) install them on a ONE piece slave Pic rail that is known to be straight, to the exact same hole spacing as on the rifle (sometimes have to modify a recoil lug on the slave pic rail to get the hole spacing I need) Tighten the ring cross bolts good, install the virgin lapping bar, remove the slave Pic rail and install the thoroughly cleaned 2 piece bases in its place. With the rifle clamped in a vise, I thread in waxed headless base screws into the thoroughly cleaned receiver top. Now, apply epoxy to the underside of the bases, slip the bases over the headless screws and use big rubber bands or rubber surgical tubing to hold the lapping bar/scope ring/2 piece base assembly snugly against the receiver. Clean off excess epoxy. After 4 days, loosen ring cross bolts and remove rings/lapping bar. Remove headless screws, clean holes, apply blue Loctite to cleaned base screws, install screws and torque them. The 2 piece bases are now installed rigidly on the receiver, aligned (as much as possible) like a 1 piece rail. RJ

Just when ya thought things couldn't get anymore anal! BAM something like this hits ya on the head first thing in the morning. Carry on!







Take care, Willie

Well duh!

In addition to this, from the 300 magnums and up, I tap the receiver first for 8x40’s.

Anal? OK. To each, his own. You can do it right, or do it half assed.

Have not had anything come loose since doing this. Have had three come loose previously.

Ya I've never had problems with rings or bases, never lapped rings, used loctite or torque driver. Always ran em farmer tight. I guess I could see doing this to a picatiny rail....

Let me see;

1. Use JB Weld, a medium strength epoxy.

2. Bond hard anodized 6061 aluminum to blued chrome moly steel (or stainless) with no surface prep, only a simple cleaning wipe.

3. No bond line control (bond thickness).

4. Apply JB Weld to all fasteners.

5. Some people apply JB Weld to the scope tube and ring joint also.

6. And everything can be removed using a little heat.



Well.....those are six good reasons for not doing this minimally advantageous procedure.

Haha 😂

LMAO!!!! I might add I was thinking of marketing an ALPHA set of rings, and a base. That will be a thousand each ring, and a thousand for the base. Simply because there is an azz for every seat, and a sucker born every day and none die. Looking for INVESTORS..








Take care, Willie

After having to resight it in a couple times, I finally JB welded some Talleys to a Rem 700 in 7 Mag. Just to see how effective the JB Weld might be, I pulled the base screws out after it cured. Mounted a 3-9 Leupold and proceeded to sight it in, and shoot a box of rounds through it. It ran just fine, and once sighted in, it stayed sighted in through the rest of the box.... with nothing but the JB Weld holding the bases to the receiver. Pulled the scope, put the base screws back in, and that thing stayed sighted in for a long time afterwards.

You can do it however you want. I just think that the torque on the screws is plenty to keep your base from moving as long as those screws never loosen over time. I think the reason a mount moves is because the screws loosen with repeated impacts of recoil and other movement . I also change scopes often enough that I don't want to have any mess to clean off my rifle.. Every rifle I have ever used release agent on still had an epoxy bond even after I took the screws out. The advantage of the release agent is that a few taps on the bases after removing the screws popped them off clean.

Never heard of this before, but then again, no one runs swfa’s Here either.... but then again, the folks I’m talking about probably kill more than 75% of the members here in their life, annually....