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I remember reading here about epoxying Talley's to the receiver before you tighten down the screws. Could you talk me through it? What is being used for an epoxy? Do you roughen, scuff up, the surfaces first? Any threads describing the procedure?

Thanks
Jim


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Why would you want to do this?


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Permanent non-moving attachment.


BE STRONG IN THE LORD, AND IN HIS MIGHTY POWER. ~ Ephesians 6:10

Socialism is a philosophy of failure,
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Oh


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I’ve done this with JB Weld for 25 years... pretty simple.


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I also bed the scope mounts to the receiver using JB Weld. I use Teflon spray on the receiver, bolts and bolt holes, clean the bases then apply epoxy screwing them down into a neutral position (not torqueing them). When epoxy set I then take out the screws and use blue lock tite and torque.

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Originally Posted by JamesW
I also bed the scope mounts to the receiver using JB Weld. I use Teflon spray on the receiver, bolts and bolt holes, clean the bases then apply epoxy screwing them down into a neutral position (not torqueing them). When epoxy set I then take out the screws and use blue lock tite and torque.


For me the point is to epoxy it all into a monolithic mount, screws, bases, receiver... all of it.


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Originally Posted by Brad
Originally Posted by JamesW
I also bed the scope mounts to the receiver using JB Weld. I use Teflon spray on the receiver, bolts and bolt holes, clean the bases then apply epoxy screwing them down into a neutral position (not torqueing them). When epoxy set I then take out the screws and use blue lock tite and torque.


For me the point is to epoxy it all into a monolithic mount, screws, bases, receiver... all of it.

Brad;
Good evening to you, I hope this finds you and your fine family well.

If memory serves, the first time I read about epoxying bases onto the receiver was in a Ed Nixon story in hunting magazine entitled "Trophies to Take With You". He was a Montana guide from the Swan Valley and did an Alaska trip where he built a .338 on a BSA action - again if memory serves and it might not after a day in the Okanagan sun.

Anyway he talked about epoxying the bases to the receiver, then the bottoms of the Weaver scope mounts in and finally the El Paso Weaver was epoxied in place too.

For me it was a watershed moment where a light went on - I'd had a couple of rifles "loosen up" on me, once completely wrecking a late season whitetail hunt one valley over. I began to epoxy the bases onto my "rough use" rifles back then and have been doing that on any rifles passing through my shop unless the owner asks not to.

A couple decades of use in the BC and Yukon back country are pretty fair testimony that it works - or so I've come to believe.

For sure any horse hunting arms got epoxied bases and rings whenever feasible - even Ruger No 1's and so help me Brad they all worked when asked.

Anyway as always it's just one increasingly aging Canuck's thoughts on the matter and nothing more. All the best to you all this summer Brad.

Dwayne


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I love how you chummed the water here, waited for someone to try and help Rug3 out, and then stepped in to tell JamesW he's wrong.


Rug3, go with some Dual Dovetails and enjoy the sturdiness a real scope mount has to offer.


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Originally Posted by Higbean
I love how you chummed the water here, waited for someone to try and help Rug3 out, and then stepped in to tell JamesW he's wrong..


I’d like you to point out where I said he was “wrong.” I just pointed out a difference. My previous response was from a phone where details aren’t exactly fun to try to type. Aside, I’m not exactly sure what can be added... if a guy can’t figure how to put epoxy on bases I’m not sure anything I can say will help. The point of my post was to encourage him to do it. Not that hard to understand.

Not sure what your problem is...


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Originally Posted by BC30cal
Originally Posted by Brad
Originally Posted by JamesW
I also bed the scope mounts to the receiver using JB Weld. I use Teflon spray on the receiver, bolts and bolt holes, clean the bases then apply epoxy screwing them down into a neutral position (not torqueing them). When epoxy set I then take out the screws and use blue lock tite and torque.


For me the point is to epoxy it all into a monolithic mount, screws, bases, receiver... all of it.

Brad;
Good evening to you, I hope this finds you and your fine family well.

If memory serves, the first time I read about epoxying bases onto the receiver was in a Ed Nixon story in hunting magazine entitled "Trophies to Take With You". He was a Montana guide from the Swan Valley and did an Alaska trip where he built a .338 on a BSA action - again if memory serves and it might not after a day in the Okanagan sun.

Anyway he talked about epoxying the bases to the receiver, then the bottoms of the Weaver scope mounts in and finally the El Paso Weaver was epoxied in place too.

For me it was a watershed moment where a light went on - I'd had a couple of rifles "loosen up" on me, once completely wrecking a late season whitetail hunt one valley over. I began to epoxy the bases onto my "rough use" rifles back then and have been doing that on any rifles passing through my shop unless the owner asks not to.

A couple decades of use in the BC and Yukon back country are pretty fair testimony that it works - or so I've come to believe.

For sure any horse hunting arms got epoxied bases and rings whenever feasible - even Ruger No 1's and so help me Brad they all worked when asked.

Anyway as always it's just one increasingly aging Canuck's thoughts on the matter and nothing more. All the best to you all this summer Brad.

Dwayne


Dwayne, so nice to hear from you. Life is good, enjoying spectacular weather here in Montana. I started the practice of epoxying bases to the receiver a long time ago. I’d never heard of anyone doing it, it just made sense. Really it just gives old Murphy one less thing to sabotage!


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I epoxy my picatinni rails on my rifles. Screws get blue loctite. Cheap insurance.

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TFF.

Rug3, you don't need to rough up anything if you're intending to glue them on there. Wipe the recvr down with some degreaser and bed away.

Make sure and put some release agent on the screws.

Last edited by Higbean; 07/13/18.

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JB Weld on very well cleaned metal adheres very seriously. I wouldn’t remove any existing metal finishes prior. Chemical solvents can be used to soften/loosen epoxy if that is ever desired.

I agree that epoxy can be a very trustworthy hell-or-high water solution to potential problems. But few people take that as advice until they follow the path Dwayne and others have taken. 😬


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Point out where I said he was wrong...


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Aside, no need for release agent on anything.

Clean and degrease everything, apply JB’s on the bases and screws, put it all together, wipe off the excess epoxy.

To take apart, kiss with a bezomatic, or touch the screws with a soldering iron... I prefer the torch.


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I used to like to super glue my thumb and pointer finger together......


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Originally Posted by Brad
Aside, no need for release agent on anything.

Clean and degrease everything, apply JB’s on the bases and screws, put it all together, wipe off the excess epoxy.

To take apart, kiss with a bezomatic, or touch the screws with a soldering iron... I prefer the torch.



Haha.

Totarry predictable.


Screw you! I'm voting for Trump again!

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Originally Posted by Jim_Conrad
I used to like to super glue my thumb and pointer finger together......


👌 Like this....😎


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Originally Posted by Higbean
Originally Posted by Brad
Aside, no need for release agent on anything.

Clean and degrease everything, apply JB’s on the bases and screws, put it all together, wipe off the excess epoxy.

To take apart, kiss with a bezomatic, or touch the screws with a soldering iron... I prefer the torch.



Haha.

Totarry predictable.



In the bottle tonight?

Still waiting for you to point out where I said the man was wrong...


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Originally Posted by Jim_Conrad
I used to like to super glue my thumb and pointer finger together......


lol

Thank you for bringing some levity to a simple thread that was trying to turn off course.


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Originally Posted by Brad
Aside, no need for release agent on anything.

Clean and degrease everything, apply JB’s on the bases and screws, put it all together, wipe off the excess epoxy.

To take apart, kiss with a bezomatic, or touch the screws with a soldering iron... I prefer the torch.


Exactly what I had in mind and thought maybe it might be fun to ask anyway. Besides most questions here will usually prove entertaining as well as kicked up a few experiences.

Thanks men.
Jim


BE STRONG IN THE LORD, AND IN HIS MIGHTY POWER. ~ Ephesians 6:10

Socialism is a philosophy of failure,
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Originally Posted by Brad
Originally Posted by Higbean
I love how you chummed the water here, waited for someone to try and help Rug3 out, and then stepped in to tell JamesW he's wrong..


I’d like you to point out where I said he was “wrong.” I just pointed out a difference. My previous response was from a phone where details aren’t exactly fun to try to type. Aside, I’m not exactly sure what can be added... if a guy can’t figure how to put epoxy on bases I’m not sure anything I can say will help. The point of my post was to encourage him to do it. Not that hard to understand.

Not sure what your problem is...


Brad, you did not. Just explained how you do it, which happens to be a little different.


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Originally Posted by Brad
Originally Posted by JamesW
I also bed the scope mounts to the receiver using JB Weld. I use Teflon spray on the receiver, bolts and bolt holes, clean the bases then apply epoxy screwing them down into a neutral position (not torqueing them). When epoxy set I then take out the screws and use blue lock tite and torque.


For me the point is to epoxy it all into a monolithic mount, screws, bases, receiver... all of it.


Sounds good to me! Have not considered using JB weld to make a monolithic mount to receiver, actually been trying to avoid this happening! I use it to bed and take up imperfections, too scared I will never be able to get it apart!

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The last ones I've been doing with JB weld,I've put release agent on the receiver and in the receiver holes. No release agent in the mount screws means that the screw holes means the screws won't back out regardless. Just a little heat on the base screws will remove the bases and the receiver and receiver screw holes will be clean.

Last edited by R_H_Clark; 07/14/18.
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You guys that do this, do you see a advantage???


Ping pong balls for the win.
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Originally Posted by CRS
Originally Posted by Brad
Originally Posted by Higbean
I love how you chummed the water here, waited for someone to try and help Rug3 out, and then stepped in to tell JamesW he's wrong..


I’d like you to point out where I said he was “wrong.” I just pointed out a difference. My previous response was from a phone where details aren’t exactly fun to try to type. Aside, I’m not exactly sure what can be added... if a guy can’t figure how to put epoxy on bases I’m not sure anything I can say will help. The point of my post was to encourage him to do it. Not that hard to understand.

Not sure what your problem is...


Brad, you did not. Just explained how you do it, which happens to be a little different.


No different than what I have done for probably 30 years
It works

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Judman, I definitely see an advantage. But, I would definitely NOT use release agent on the receiver. I want a strong bond between the base and receiver. That's the advantage. If you drop your rifle, and we all know it does happen, you don't have to worry about that epoxied base (or ring/mount) moving slightly, in relation to the receiver. If the rifle is dropped, something else may move but the relationship between base (or ring/mount) and receiver is one thing that you won't have to worry about. And as far as removing the bases later on if you desire, I've done that too. Remove the barreled action, put it in a vise. Heat the base with a heat gun and give it a tap with hammer with a piece of wood against the base. Very simple. With the epoxy softened with heat, it can be scraped off the receiver using an old credit card, without harming the receivers finish, blued or stainless. Residuals cand be cleaned off with brake cleaner.

I also jig ring/mounts using a virgin lapping bar and gluing them to the receiver with the bar attached for perfect ring alignment.

For 2 piece weaver or Pic bases I use as perfect (as I can find) set of scope rings (TPS) install them on a ONE piece slave Pic rail that is known to be straight, to the exact same hole spacing as on the rifle (sometimes have to modify a recoil lug on the slave pic rail to get the hole spacing I need) Tighten the ring cross bolts good, install the virgin lapping bar, remove the slave Pic rail and install the thoroughly cleaned 2 piece bases in its place. With the rifle clamped in a vise, I thread in waxed headless base screws into the thoroughly cleaned receiver top. Now, apply epoxy to the underside of the bases, slip the bases over the headless screws and use big rubber bands or rubber surgical tubing to hold the lapping bar/scope ring/2 piece base assembly snugly against the receiver. Clean off excess epoxy. After 4 days, loosen ring cross bolts and remove rings/lapping bar. Remove headless screws, clean holes, apply blue Loctite to cleaned base screws, install screws and torque them. The 2 piece bases are now installed rigidly on the receiver, aligned (as much as possible) like a 1 piece rail. RJ

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Just when ya thought things couldn't get anymore anal! BAM something like this hits ya on the head first thing in the morning. Carry on!







Take care, Willie


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Originally Posted by wdenike
Just when ya thought things couldn't get anymore anal! BAM something like this hits ya on the head first thing in the morning. Carry on!


Well duh! laugh


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Originally Posted by Brad
Originally Posted by JamesW
I also bed the scope mounts to the receiver using JB Weld. I use Teflon spray on the receiver, bolts and bolt holes, clean the bases then apply epoxy screwing them down into a neutral position (not torqueing them). When epoxy set I then take out the screws and use blue lock tite and torque.


For me the point is to epoxy it all into a monolithic mount, screws, bases, receiver... all of it.


In addition to this, from the 300 magnums and up, I tap the receiver first for 8x40’s.

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Originally Posted by wdenike
Just when ya thought things couldn't get anymore anal! BAM something like this hits ya on the head first thing in the morning. Carry on!

.












Anal? OK. To each, his own. You can do it right, or do it half assed.

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Originally Posted by Judman
You guys that do this, do you see a advantage???


Have not had anything come loose since doing this. Have had three come loose previously.


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Ya I've never had problems with rings or bases, never lapped rings, used loctite or torque driver. Always ran em farmer tight. I guess I could see doing this to a picatiny rail....


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Let me see;

1. Use JB Weld, a medium strength epoxy.

2. Bond hard anodized 6061 aluminum to blued chrome moly steel (or stainless) with no surface prep, only a simple cleaning wipe.

3. No bond line control (bond thickness).

4. Apply JB Weld to all fasteners.

5. Some people apply JB Weld to the scope tube and ring joint also.

6. And everything can be removed using a little heat.



Well.....those are six good reasons for not doing this minimally advantageous procedure.


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Haha 😂


Ping pong balls for the win.
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Originally Posted by CreekWarrior
Let me see;

1. Use JB Weld, a medium strength epoxy.

2. Bond hard anodized 6061 aluminum to blued chrome moly steel (or stainless) with no surface prep, only a simple cleaning wipe.

3. No bond line control (bond thickness).

4. Apply JB Weld to all fasteners.

5. Some people apply JB Weld to the scope tube and ring joint also.

6. And everything can be removed using a little heat.



Well.....those are six good reasons for not doing this minimally advantageous procedure.









LMAO!!!! I might add I was thinking of marketing an ALPHA set of rings, and a base. That will be a thousand each ring, and a thousand for the base. Simply because there is an azz for every seat, and a sucker born every day and none die. Looking for INVESTORS..








Take care, Willie


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Originally Posted by CreekWarrior
Let me see;

1. Use JB Weld, a medium strength epoxy.

2. Bond hard anodized 6061 aluminum to blued chrome moly steel (or stainless) with no surface prep, only a simple cleaning wipe.

3. No bond line control (bond thickness).

4. Apply JB Weld to all fasteners.

5. Some people apply JB Weld to the scope tube and ring joint also.

6. And everything can be removed using a little heat.



Well.....those are six good reasons for not doing this minimally advantageous procedure.


After having to resight it in a couple times, I finally JB welded some Talleys to a Rem 700 in 7 Mag. Just to see how effective the JB Weld might be, I pulled the base screws out after it cured. Mounted a 3-9 Leupold and proceeded to sight it in, and shoot a box of rounds through it. It ran just fine, and once sighted in, it stayed sighted in through the rest of the box.... with nothing but the JB Weld holding the bases to the receiver. Pulled the scope, put the base screws back in, and that thing stayed sighted in for a long time afterwards.


You better pray to the God of Skinny Punks that this wind doesn't pick up......
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Originally Posted by rj308
Judman, I definitely see an advantage. But, I would definitely NOT use release agent on the receiver. I want a strong bond between the base and receiver. That's the advantage. If you drop your rifle, and we all know it does happen, you don't have to worry about that epoxied base (or ring/mount) moving slightly, in relation to the receiver. If the rifle is dropped, something else may move but the relationship between base (or ring/mount) and receiver is one thing that you won't have to worry about. And as far as removing the bases later on if you desire, I've done that too. Remove the barreled action, put it in a vise. Heat the base with a heat gun and give it a tap with hammer with a piece of wood against the base. Very simple. With the epoxy softened with heat, it can be scraped off the receiver using an old credit card, without harming the receivers finish, blued or stainless. Residuals cand be cleaned off with brake cleaner.

I also jig ring/mounts using a virgin lapping bar and gluing them to the receiver with the bar attached for perfect ring alignment.

For 2 piece weaver or Pic bases I use as perfect (as I can find) set of scope rings (TPS) install them on a ONE piece slave Pic rail that is known to be straight, to the exact same hole spacing as on the rifle (sometimes have to modify a recoil lug on the slave pic rail to get the hole spacing I need) Tighten the ring cross bolts good, install the virgin lapping bar, remove the slave Pic rail and install the thoroughly cleaned 2 piece bases in its place. With the rifle clamped in a vise, I thread in waxed headless base screws into the thoroughly cleaned receiver top. Now, apply epoxy to the underside of the bases, slip the bases over the headless screws and use big rubber bands or rubber surgical tubing to hold the lapping bar/scope ring/2 piece base assembly snugly against the receiver. Clean off excess epoxy. After 4 days, loosen ring cross bolts and remove rings/lapping bar. Remove headless screws, clean holes, apply blue Loctite to cleaned base screws, install screws and torque them. The 2 piece bases are now installed rigidly on the receiver, aligned (as much as possible) like a 1 piece rail. RJ


You can do it however you want. I just think that the torque on the screws is plenty to keep your base from moving as long as those screws never loosen over time. I think the reason a mount moves is because the screws loosen with repeated impacts of recoil and other movement . I also change scopes often enough that I don't want to have any mess to clean off my rifle.. Every rifle I have ever used release agent on still had an epoxy bond even after I took the screws out. The advantage of the release agent is that a few taps on the bases after removing the screws popped them off clean.

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Never heard of this before, but then again, no one runs swfa’s Here either.... but then again, the folks I’m talking about probably kill more than 75% of the members here in their life, annually....


Ping pong balls for the win.
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You’re the luckiest guy I know, when it comes to not breaking rifles. S’pose maybe that offsets your lack of luck in hair follicle department.....

I’ve had POI move 6”-8” from rifles simply falling over while leaned against a tree or a tailgate, that doesn’t seem to happen now that schitt is screwed, glued, and tattooed. Admittedly, I’m also pretty clumsy, and have wrecked ass over tea kettle with a rifle in my hands more than once...couple dabs of JB Weld is good piece of mind....


You better pray to the God of Skinny Punks that this wind doesn't pick up......
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Dog, with all do respect, I’ve been around a lot of rifles, mounted a shiit ton of scopes for folks, a lot of guys come out as I have 500 in the field, and I’ve never ever experienced shiit that’s posted here!! Never!! My ol man sat me at the loading bench when I was 12, been mounting scopes since then, guess I’m lucky???

As a aside, my smith, steve Kostanich, “google him”, installed a visa on a 338 rum lss first year they were made. Shot the [bleep] outta it , 3-9 Nikon ucc, shot 1/2” groups stupidly. Picked it up from him, he says how’d that rifle shoot? I says it shoots rather stellar. Steve says, “huh”..... I ask why, he says, well both base screws were sheared off on the rear base!!! Haha. That was after 2 bear and a few bucks gettin smashed.... ya I guess I am lucky, and yes, Nikon hold their zero too..... I guess I’ll just keep doin what I’m doin.... grin


Ping pong balls for the win.
Once you've wrestled everything else in life is easy. Dan Gable
I keep my circle small, I’d rather have 4 quarters than 100 pennies.

Ain’t easy havin pals.
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Just funny how mileage varies.....

You’ve got a sweet spread up there.... I’ve always liked your place.


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Originally Posted by Judman
Dog, with all do respect, I’ve been around a lot of rifles, mounted a shiit ton of scopes for folks, a lot of guys come out as I have 500 in the field, and I’ve never ever experienced shiit that’s posted here!! Never!! My ol man sat me at the loading bench when I was 12, been mounting scopes since then, guess I’m lucky???

As a aside, my smith, steve Kostanich, “google him”, installed a visa on a 338 rum lss first year they were made. Shot the [bleep] outta it , 3-9 Nikon ucc, shot 1/2” groups stupidly. Picked it up from him, he says how’d that rifle shoot? I says it shoots rather stellar. Steve says, “huh”..... I ask why, he says, well both base screws were sheared off on the rear base!!! Haha. That was after 2 bear and a few bucks gettin smashed.... ya I guess I am lucky, and yes, Nikon hold their zero too..... I guess I’ll just keep doin what I’m doin.... grin


I love it! If it aint broke don't fix it.


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Ya it’s weird, makes me question my shiit!!! Haha

Your welcome anytime man, got 3 bedrooms upstairs and a camptrailer I can tow down to the river if you like....

PS, the backyard range sucks sometimes, the neighbors absolutely hate me the last part of September/first of October..... grin


Ping pong balls for the win.
Once you've wrestled everything else in life is easy. Dan Gable
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We laughed and laughed about it!!! It ruined the rifle when I had the vias installed, tripped it for a set of Swarovski 10-42, wish I still had that rifle. Never forget a bear I killed with it, daughter was about 2. Got off my quad, grabbed the rifle in 1 hand, daughter in the other. Walked over a landing, set sis down, started glassin, bout a 200 lb sow fed up a canyon to us, 210 partition between the shoulder blades, out the belly button... impressive flip for sure... no flys on the 38 rum....


Ping pong balls for the win.
Once you've wrestled everything else in life is easy. Dan Gable
I keep my circle small, I’d rather have 4 quarters than 100 pennies.

Ain’t easy havin pals.
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Neighbors sensitive to the sound of gunfire? Sweet! I’m bringing a truck load of magnums, all with muzzle brakes, and a fire extinguisher in the event I set you back 40 aflame 🤭😎


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Originally Posted by Judman
We laughed and laughed about it!!! It ruined the rifle when I had the vias installed, tripped it for a set of Swarovski 10-42, wish I still had that rifle. Never forget a bear I killed with it, daughter was about 2. Got off my quad, grabbed the rifle in 1 hand, daughter in the other. Walked over a landing, set sis down, started glassin, bout a 200 lb sow fed up a canyon to us, 210 partition between the shoulder blades, out the belly button... impressive flip for sure... no flys on the 38 rum....


That’s called hunting right there...😎


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Bring er!!!! The dollar will be lit up!!! Laffin


Ping pong balls for the win.
Once you've wrestled everything else in life is easy. Dan Gable
I keep my circle small, I’d rather have 4 quarters than 100 pennies.

Ain’t easy havin pals.
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Heck, I've got a 300 WM M70 Classic Stainless that I drilled and tapped the holes to 8x40, scuffed up the receiver and bases with a Dremel, epoxied and torqued them down.
Bubba? yup. But they don't move.
I was thinking about TIG welding them, but went that way instead.

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Judman, I think you are very lucky. I hunt the Carpathian mountains, the majority of the hunts going up and down mountains, the trails being covered with mud or ice and snow. Due to the very common brown bear encounters, most of the time my rifle is in my hands or one hand while trying to stabilize myself with the other hand. I can count on dropping or falling down with the rifle at LEAST once a hunt in muddy or snow/ice conditions going up and down those mountains. If you are lucky, your rifle will impact only snow,mud or brush, but there are a lot of rocks and ice looking for that rifle.

What convinced me to epoxy my bases was an incident with a Browning X-Bolt. It has 4 base screws per base and all were torqued properly when installed. After a hunt, my hunting friend took me out of the forest most of the way to my car parked on the hard road. I had a small pack on my back. When I took the rifle off my back, the sling some way got caught on the pack and yanked the rifle out of my hands. it hit the road on the eye piece/left side of the scope and also had scratches on the left side of the muzzle. I had Butler Creek scope flip covers on the Ziess Conquest 3x9x40 and it did not distort the scope eye piece. When I was able to shoot the rifle, bullet impact was about 6" to the right of where it was sighted in for. I removed the scope (QD rings), closely examined the scope bases and I could see a fine line on the left side of the rear base where, it appeared, the scope base had moved a tiny bit. I don't know if that alone accounted for the 6" sighting error or some of it was caused by the scope adjustment changing, but it was enough to convince me to epoxy my bases to the receiver with no release agent. RJ

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Bought some glue today. (JB Weld)
Already have the Talley's, Loctite blue, and an 84L Kimber waiting.

Last edited by Rug3; 07/17/18.

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Originally Posted by Rug3
Bought some glue today. (JB Weld)
Already have the Talley's, Loctite blue, and an 84L Kimber waiting.



Awesome!

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Originally Posted by R_H_Clark


You can do it however you want. I just think that the torque on the screws is plenty to keep your base from moving as long as those screws never loosen over time. I think the reason a mount moves is because the screws loosen with repeated impacts of recoil and other movement . I also change scopes often enough that I don't want to have any mess to clean off my rifle.. Every rifle I have ever used release agent on still had an epoxy bond even after I took the screws out. The advantage of the release agent is that a few taps on the bases after removing the screws popped them off clean.


I think someone posted a link to some high speed photography that shows there is definite movement in the bases with 6-48s and nothing else. Most of the time the spring back just fine but in rough handling, there is some movement that is plastic.

Bedding and 8-40s is always a good idea. I find that I can usually snap it loose with a brass punch and no heat. The fact that it is still bonded shows that it did indeed hold. I typically used Devcon 10110 rather than JB. I don't glue the screws. They could be hard to get out. Just use Loctite on the screws themselves.

The latest thing is to pin the rail to the action with dowel pins. This is how my Defiance actions are set up. Very rigid, very removeable.


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