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Who are some good smiths to rebarrel Model 70?

My local smiths all appear to be limited to basic R700 and clones.

Thanks.

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Redneck (Lee) right here on the forum has an impeccable record with the M70.

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Redneck is a great pick, I also do a lot of M70's


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Originally Posted by jeffbird
Who are some good smiths to rebarrel Model 70?

My local smiths all appear to be limited to basic R700 and clones.

Thanks.



Ray Perry in Bridge City, TX does outstanding work.

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I second Redneck and JKob. Both have made rifles for me and they are exceptional.

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Yep, I've worked with both Redneck and Jkob, great guys that know there way around model 70's.

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Originally Posted by joelkdouglas
I second Redneck and JKob. Both have made rifles for me and they are exceptional.



Agreed! I’ve also used LRI for a 6.5 Gap build on a M70. Chad really digs 70s, had a fast turn around time for truing, Re Barrel, and fluting... more time for me to shoot 1/2” groups with it. grin In all fairness. I’ve had rifles from Redneck that did the same


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Redneck does excellent work.

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PM coming.....


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Originally Posted by handwerk
Yep, I've worked with both Redneck and Jkob, great guys that know there way around model 70's.

Have used them, top notch, both.

Jim does Mausers in addition to others.

Lee is more of a M-70 man.

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PM sent.

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Lee "Redneck" and Jim Kobe are great and turn their work promptly.

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Originally Posted by butchlambert1
Lee "Redneck" and Jim Kobe are great and turn their work promptly.

Yep, good guys both and their prices are competitive.

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I'd check with Mark Penrod or Gene Simillion. They are two of the best smiths there are when it comes to a M70. Lee is excellent as well.


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That is a pretty solid list. Any of the 4 listed would do a great job.

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What do you mean buy truing? If yiur talking about single pointing everything and squaring everytging up most smith dont have the proper tool to true a non round action.
Greg Tannel does snd so does Penrod.
Redneck does excellant work and has built several guns for me, but I dont believe he fully trues up the action. Probably because its of little benifit for a hunting rifle.

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The things usually necessary on a M70 are easily done and of little cost.. Some of the guys get into sleeving the bolt etc., but that's more for the serious bench-rest competitor who needs to get the last .002 out of a group.. I inspect every action that comes in and make recommendations as to what 'needs' to be done, what 'might' be done and those items that are just 'fine' the way they are.. Then it's up to the customer as to what to proceed on.

I always cut a new face on the receiver when rebarreling to ensure the barrel goes on straight! Nearly always the bolt lugs need some lapping so as to provide full and even contact. Once in a while the receiver lugs need to be recut - but that's rare and can cause other issues to crop up. IIRC I've only had to do that twice in 20 years.. I've had the recoil lugs on the bolt so off (not many M70s but many more Rem 700s) that they need to be recut to match the receiver.. The NH models do benefit from a proper trigger job.

Anything other than those items above and they're more for either the bench-rest crowd or as a money-making tool for other 'smiths... (IMHO, naturally smile ) Because 90% of the accuracy of any rifle is the barrel - period..


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Here's a pre-64 with Bordens Bumps. The action was blueprinted and trued, the bolt body had recesses milled as shown. SS barrel pieces were machined, the halves JB welded in the recesses, then milled to be slightly oblong, creating close up and down fit as the action is closed. The bolt is true, has little movement when the action is closed.

Not needed on a hunting rifle, but sorta cool. Don't see many pre-64's set up like this. This gun has a 6.5-284 26" Krieger, glassed and pillared in a Boyd Jon Sundra sporter, finished by me, checkered by Errol Case in MO. Jewell trigger, Z5 glass. It's put a few pronghorn heads on the wall, WT's and hogs in the freezer.

Glare on the finish is from enhancement of the photo, actually not that shiny. More like the third photo. tung oil/urethane finish with a soft sheen.

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If you want a real nice one and you have a few coins in your pocket you could also go with David Miller. He specializes in Model 70s and you can look at his work in the book entitled Mastery of Wood and Metal.

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Originally Posted by Redneck
The things usually necessary on a M70 are easily done and of little cost.. Some of the guys get into sleeving the bolt etc., but that's more for the serious bench-rest competitor who needs to get the last .002 out of a group.. I inspect every action that comes in and make recommendations as to what 'needs' to be done, what 'might' be done and those items that are just 'fine' the way they are.. Then it's up to the customer as to what to proceed on.

I always cut a new face on the receiver when rebarreling to ensure the barrel goes on straight! Nearly always the bolt lugs need some lapping so as to provide full and even contact. Once in a while the receiver lugs need to be recut - but that's rare and can cause other issues to crop up. IIRC I've only had to do that twice in 20 years.. I've had the recoil lugs on the bolt so off (not many M70s but many more Rem 700s) that they need to be recut to match the receiver.. The NH models do benefit from a proper trigger job.

Anything other than those items above and they're more for either the bench-rest crowd or as a money-making tool for other 'smiths... (IMHO, naturally smile ) Because 90% of the accuracy of any rifle is the barrel - period..


Lee: I know you don't particularly like 'em, but do you work on BACO's?

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