Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Ask The Gunwriters DynaTek Gun Shield vs Ceracote

I was shopping for UBC (I have four virgin tubes in the safe I want to treat) and discovered the Dynatek products are discontinued across most of our old dependable gunny supply outlets. Midway does still have Dyna Borecote in stock, but not the kit which includes the alcohol solvent.

I ordered two one oz bottles of bore cote and two 1/2 oz bottles of gun shield, thinking I might never have another opportunity to buy them.

I am familiar with Cerakote, and what it does, even though I have never used it. Is Gun shield similar? Transparent? How far will a 1/2 oz bottle go on a couple of 26 inch Varmint weight bolt guns? How best to apply?

The only "product" that's discontinued is the "kit" with the alcohol bottle. Apparently customers grew weary of paying $20 for a tiny bottle of alchohol every time they bought a bottle of DBC.

Gun Shield is transparent, in fact you won't be able to see it on top of blueing, which is why a lot people prefer it to Cerakote for weatherproofing "traditional" rifles. There's no way to tell how far a small bottle will go when treating different guns, because of varying amount of coverage, but like DBC is generally goes further than expected.

What John said. Just to add that the folks from Dyna-Tek told me that GS and BC are the same formula.

RM

Thanks gents,

Have you a link for application instructions? Apparently my Google - fu is weak.

I can't find a link, but from what I remember just clean all the oils and grease with the alcohol, take a patch and wet metal - not too much as it will leave streaks - then let it dry. That's about all there is to it. But keep it off anything you don't want to have the coating on because once it's there it's not coming off. So you might want to remove your scope. And don't forget to use it on your steel sling-swivel studs (I'd tape off the stock around them first, though).

I put the stuff on my Featherweight and between it and a thick coat of Johnson's Paste Wax on the inside of the stock I have zero water issues. Just touch up the DBC every year or two on the places where there might be wear (edges of the muzzle, bolt handle, etc).

Thank you Mike.

Mike,

Actually, DBC that doesn't get "cured" inside the bore during firing comes off pretty easily, since it's mostly just dried glue. Or at least that's been my experience.

Does the gun shield benefit from any heat curing? Seems like if not cured it will wear off quickly.

John:

Right, it's just basically a glue that bonds to the steel. I think the bullets passing through the bore is what bonds the silica(?) to the grooves/lands. The only curing of GS is just air drying, but I did inadvertently drag the end of a patch across the scope bell, and after it dried I couldn't scrape it off with a fingernail. It's some tough stuff.

Mike

FWIW, I have used GS on bright polished (non-blued, non-browned) steel on muzzleloaders and have not re-applied it and have not experienced any unsightly wear or rusting. I do heat treat the parts after the GS has air dried, in the oven for an hour at 250*F. I have been renovating an old Stevens with a case hardened action which is being redone and I’m going to treat that action with CS to try and lessen the wear on the case hardening.

Would GS work for protecting color case hardening on a shotgun frame? I've got a Dickinson SxS that after 3 years the color is starting to wear from handling.

Yes.

Thanks - ordering more and will use the Bore shield inside and out.

DBC and DGS seem to be a different formula, based on how they behave when applied to metal, both uncured. As John pointed out, DBC comes off of metal pretty easily before it is cured, and seems to sit on the surface of the metal like a glue. DGS, on the other hand, soaks into the pores of the metal, and is very durable when air dried. DBC seems to have a more viscous, glue-like carrier, while DGS seems to be more like an alcohol, or something.

DGS works great on knives, guns, etc. I definitely recommend it. Doug Burche, the originator of UBC, told me that DGS is harder than Cerakote, and will even work as a coating applied overtop of Cerakote to give an even more durable finish than CK on its own.

It evidently does. I had a Model 99 action bead blasted and started applying GC inside and out. After 3 coats, it was still rough. I called the company and spoke with (I think), Doug. He said to apply until smooth, then bake in the oven at 350 for 40 minutes, and it would be essentially bullet proof. And it's slick as snot on a doorknob. Very happy with the result.

Thanks sounds like a recipe for biscuits. Is 350 degrees even close to an annealing temp?

Nothing to do with annealing. Just curing the ceramic.