Home Forums Reloading Big Game Rifles Fieldcraft Swede

Anybody got a 6.5x55 Fieldcraft and got it to shoot great? Please don’t give me R22 loads because it’s way too temp sensitive for my needs. I’ve went through an entire box of 130 Sierra gamechangers and 143 eld’s, and still can’t break the 1” barrier. Using h4350 and h4831sc. Have tried a bunch of seating depths and charge weights, as well as Fed and cci primers.
I’m starting each round with a clean barrel and waiting 3-5 minutes between shots (barrel is mildly warm). Thanks for any suggestions!

Stop cleaning it and it will settle down

This.

Ok. I’ll give it a try, but after 20 rounds it’s copper fouled pretty bad.

Try a max load of H4350 and the 120gr Ballistic tip.

Have you tried it with a regular Sierra Game King, Pro Hunter or a Nosler Ballistic Tip?

How straight are your assembled cartridges?

A friend really likes H1000 for accuracy in his 6.5x55. It is also an extreme powder.

I’ve tried 120gr btips and 140gr hornady sp and the best I got was an inch. It groups three thouching and then the other two touching but 1” apart. I’ve got some incredibly good three shot groups but the last two want to group in a different clique.
No idea how straight they are. Using the same hornady press I’ve had for 30 years and have loads for all my other rifles that shoot sub 1”.

But have you worked with these dies and this batch of brass before?

I had trouble getting mine to shoot at first but finally realized that it was me, not the loads I was shooting. It's my toughest rifle to shoot consistently from the bench, I suppose because it is so light.
Anyway, 147 ELD's over R26 at about 2750 fps have been money for me. Also, 129 spire points over IMR 4350 at around 2900fps work well, too.

Thanks! Good to know:).

Is there a way to post pics directly from an iPhone? I tried and it said the file type wasn’t allowed.


The brass is brand new lapua. I did borrow some once fired Winchester brass to try and it was no different.

I've used RL19, IMR 4350/4831 and H4831 with the 130 gr. Scirocco and CCI200 primers. I'm getting about 1 MOA or a little less. I think it can do better, but I'm starting to question whether or no the problem is me. Like it was said above it's my hardest rifle to shoot off the bench and I believe its the weight as well. I can nearly always get the first two shots touching and then the third goes a little off. I'm pretty sure its my eyes or the barrel getting hot quick or both.

I'm going to load up some more with H4831 because that's what Swift recommended as a good powder.

I may just have to stick with the best velocity I can get for that accuracy and go with it. I've been through a box of Scirocco's already. I bought some 130 gr. Accubonds that I'm going to try as well.

If I had a rifle that weighed what that one weighs, and could get it to shoot 3 shot groups with bullets I like at 3/4MOA+/- on a fairly regular basis, I'd call it good to go. I'd also not be measuring anything shot from a sparkling barrel, fouled only. Shoot 2 shots, let it cool down a few minutes to return the barrel from "hot" to "warm", and then shoot the third.

My Swede likes MRP with 139 Scenars. MRP is pretty close to RL-22.

I'd try RL-26 with heavies.

If you think RL-22 is too temp sens., try RL-23,

DF

It was mentioned already but is worth repeating. Have you checked the runout of loaded ammo?

What bullet seater are you useing and does it have a VLD type stem? A non VLD stem can introduce a large amount of runout when used to seat a VLD style bullet

Are the action screws tight?



Trystan

Thanks. I just ordered a vld stem and hopefully that solves some problems.
I have checked the scope and the stock screws and they’re all at spec.
I did manage a nice 1” cluster with 44gr of R16 yesterday. I think it’s going in the right direction:)

There is a long or several long threads on double groups. It usually is a bedding issue or something is loose. Is it a known performing scope?

I would be disappointed in a new barrel that still fouls after 100 rounds. I would contact Barrett about this. If not a new rifle I would do the finer grits from a Tubbs throat maintenance kit and then Dyna Bore Coat or whatever they are calling it now. A new semi custom should not need this.

As someone else posted I would just be concerned on the first three shots trying more only for load comparison. It could be something as simple as the bench set up and technique. Melvin Forbes had a recoil reducing bag set up that really helped shooting light rifles as it kept them from slidding backwards as much. Not sure these are still made.

I'd check scope mounts and scope.

I don't know the Swede your talking about, but most swedes twists are too fast for better groups with that lite of bullets. I have 2 swedes, 1919 Krag and a 1907 Carl Gustave both shoot 155-160 bullets in one hole! Just my 2 cents worth! Try heavier bullets and stay away from max loads!

Have a 1906 Gustaf with the military barrel chopped to 24". A nail driver with 140 grain slugs and some IMR 4350. Was supposed to be a truck gun, but it's kept in the safe.