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My Talley flat base measures about 0.360” at the rear. Also mounted on the rifle, so not exact.

I did it quickly and didn't write it down....there's a good chance that I didn't read my 1/10's correctly!

Either way, it's $25 less money while on sale at Midway.

Measured again and it is .360 and .385. I was rushing yesterday morning....sorry. At any rate, the Leupold will save some $.

I have one on the way to try out. I’d like to keep the weight down with the Talleys, but I’d like it to be robust too. The other day I was at the range, and to see what would happen in a fall or if the rifle fell over from leaning on a truck or tree, I slapped the side of the scope. Not too hard, anyway, the POI shifted ~1.1” on one rifle and 1.5” on another. Two different scopes. Hardly scientific, but I learned that something in the system shifted. I was surprised to see that given I really didn’t slap that hard. When I did it my expectation was neither would move and would be confident in the systems. Oh well. I’m going to bed the rings on one, replace the rings with a rail/rings on the other and try to repeat and see what happens.

Did you read Boxer's posts and the links within on Page 2 of this thread? He done the work for you.

You have to learn to speak his language or enlist the help of an interpreter, but there's always something to learn from him. Hint, laffin.

What scopes and rings/bases?

Both had Talley Lightweights. One had Vortex Razor HD LH 1.5-8 and the other a NF SHV 3-10. I wouldn’t read too much into the scopes or results beyond the fact that something shifted. My guess is a better base/ring or ring bedding will address it.

I have 2 rifles with Talley light weights mounted. I epoxy them on with no release agent, before torqueing the screws. I think that will help keep them from shifting. RJ

(FWIW) Warne MtTech Low/ Talley20

Exactly what I’m doing on one.

Gravymeister, I almost went with the Mtn Techs. Nice looking. All the rail/ring combos are too tall though. Can always go back if I don’t like it.

I've "only" broken (8) sets of LW's,aboard Killing Rifles and they'd be amongst THE last pieces of fhuqking schit I'd poke on a Barrett FC. Hint.

1" 3.5-10x Reupold LW puke here,on a Montucky 223. All were S/A failures,as an FYI...though actual fhuqking USE and round count was certainly OBSCENE. Though in fairness,I barely had more than (3) dozen sets in service aboard mainstays,at any one time. Hint.



Montucky Whizzum LW puke. Though I've broke most on 700's,in CM,S/S and Titanium,to be fair...if only because they were THE mainstays and absorbed the round count.



Epoxy is NO "aid" to Metallurgy,but be SURE To "convince" yourselfd",of that which you MOST need to hear. Pass the 20MOA(or better) 1913 rail(s),uszing ALL fhuqking (5) 8x40 fasteners and hold the Fluff.

Ring spacing is THE greatest advantage one can toss any/all 'scope's and EVERY fhuqking thing on the erector below zero,is 100% fhuqking USELESS.

Thank me later.

Hint....................

I won’t disagree the rail/rings is the most robust. However, I don’t throw my rifles and I know how to torque a screw properly, so I’m not that concerned about the LWs. Hint...

I've had two pair crack. Maybe I torque to much...don't know...I only use a thumb and two fingers to tighten with the included wrench (short end). I do know I've not had any other type of ring crack.