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Nessmuk Offline OP
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Looking for a source of ammo, or reloading tools and components.


I am the NorthEast WoodsBeast!

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You might try Ballistic Products:
http://www.ballisticproducts.com/

I buy a lot of components from them and they have been helpful to me. Calling them will get you more information than you can get on the website-- especially if you buy something from them.

You can get a MEC 600 Jr in 10 gauge from them for about $165. They also produced a reloading manual for the 10 ga that might have what you want.

Although they don't list data in their recent manuals, I'll bet you could get reloading data for short 10 gauge shells by calling Hodgedon or Lyman.

RST sells high quality (and high priced) shotshells for the 2-7/8" 10 gauge. These are great shells, but somewhat light-- 1-1/8 oz to 1-1/4 oz of lead shot at about 1150 fps. They also sell non-toxic shells (Nice shot).

http://www.rstshells.com/rst_classic_shotshells_shotshells.htm

Good luck!

Last edited by Chinook; 03/04/10.

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Try the Old West Scrounger.

I make them from 3.5" casings and load them on my MEC (you need the 2&7/8 spacer). Made up a simple jig to cut them down with a Dremel tool. Works a lot better than the cutter Ballistics Products sells. After cutting you need to "skivvy" (chamfer) the necks to get a good star crimp.

There are some smokeless loads that are perfectly safe in twist steel guns with mint bores.(See Doublegun Journal)

I use 1&1/8 oz of shot with a 12 YES 12 gauge plastic wads with IMR 4756 and WW primers (the hottest) in my 10 bore Cannon Breech Ithaca Hammer gun. (It is choked so tight a 12 gauge was will NOT drop out the muzzle!)

The boys laughed when I stepped up to the 16 yard line with this 10 pound behemoth but I never break less than 20 with it, usually more.

lotsa fun to shoot!

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Like Chinook I'd recommend Ballistic Products. Plus I've heard good things about Old West Scroungers ......

You might also try to fin some old reloading data in some of the old reloading manuals. In them you will find 2 7/8in data for the 10gauge.

But have you considered other possibilities?

Why not buy 3 1/2in hulls - and cut them at 3inches? Or even 2 3/4inches?

You can buy 3 1/2inch hulls from Ballistic Products along with a tool that will help cut them (quite accurately and SQUARE) at whatever length you want. Works well for other gauges as well.

When reloading the shell length isn't as important as the amount of shot in the "shot charge", along with the "wad column" and if those items are put together "well."

Then driven at an adequate and proper velocity through a well-choked barrel ...... will give you the performance (patterns) you're seeking.

With a 2 3/4in or 3inch 10ga hull you can probably get as much shot (carefully and properly) packed into that hull you need to kill pheasants or grouse or turkeys!

1 1/4 ounces, or 1 5/8oz is probably all the shot you'd need to hunt upland birds with your TENNER! If a 2 3/4in hull was too short - would surprise the heck outta me! But by buying and cutting hulls to your needs you'll find out quick what length is best for you ..... 2 3/4," 2 7/8," or 3 inches.

Plus 3 1/2inches is probably handy for stuffing waterfowl non-toxic shot into! ......

Good luck. grin

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echo in here

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Try here: RST Shotshells

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Tis for a lever Winchester.


I am the NorthEast WoodsBeast!

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Thanks guys, did some printing and have some info for guns owner.


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Got a case of Remington10 gauge 2 7/8” four shot, if anyone is interested

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BPI and Precision Reloading both sell 10ga new empties.I like Remingtons so I go to PRing. They ain't cheap - $44/100 if I remember. Then you cut them down to what you want. A band saw or a single edge razor stuck in a wooden dowel at about a 15 degree angle. I bought a used Mec 600 and then the dies for a 10 and converted it. I had a Parker with 2 5/8" stepped chambers so I cut all my shells, to keep it simple, to 2 5/8. Then I needed a 1/4 plate to raise the shell in the crimp stations. You can use fiber wads from Circlefly.com or buy plastic wads from BPI or PR. If using plastic wads you'll need a filler wad to get the correct load height for a good crimp. A 1/2" 16ga cushion wad is what you want. It can be cut for proper height. I left the 12ga drop tube in the press. The 10ga one was sometimes allowing the 16ga filler wad to get stuck up in the drop tube. You let the handle up and the shot would make the stuck filler wad come loose - shot all over everything. You'll learn about the little things that work or don't. You don't need any skive tool or a metal start crimp from BPI. That crap is all hipe. I've been loading the short 10 for about 10years and have never had to use any of that stuff. The Mec plastic start crimp works just fine, and I never found a use to thin the hull. I have a Parker, Remington, and Lefever 10ga guns. The Parker is kind of heavy, the Lefever doesn't have any chokes [ someone must have cut the barrels ], so my Remington is my go to 10ga. It's not too heavy for SCs, and has Mod/Mod for chokes. After I twice bought 10ga shells, a friend who cleans up at a DNR range must of given me 150 once fired 10ga hulls. I now have more than I'll use [ but they are all loaded up ]. Go here and get on their reloading forum - there's plenty of the short 10ga loads. www.parkerguns.org . I and others feel if a load is safe in a 12ga, it's safe in a 10. The chamber is bigger in diameter so the pressures will be less. If you choose mild - 7 to 9000psi loads - everything will be fine. If you sub in fiber wads over plastic the pressures will go down. Good luck. Paul

Last edited by bladesmith1; 11/10/18.
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Trimmed hulls with a roll crimp tool is the simple cheap option to reload 2 7/8" 10ga. No shotgun press required. A drill press is handy I hear, but you can just chuck up the roll crimp tool in a drill. Data is out there online. Bismuth shot is the way to go for waterfowl.


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