1972 bear tamerlane hx-300 63” 43# Recently acquired. In very good shape for a recurve this old with the original canvas bag. Gotta get a new string for it and maybe shoot it. Never had much interest in trad but maybe I will now. Any advice on arrows? Anything I need to know about this specific bow setup? Would you shoot split finger or 3 below. Was actually wanting a more bear Kodiak/ Martin savannah style but oh well
Any idea actual value Incase trad isn’t for me? I would post pics but have never figured that out
I shoot all my bows trad or compound Split Finger. But you can shoot whatever way is best for you. As to arrows you can shoot anything as long as the splines right for the bow.
Can't help you on value of it.
Enjoy a classic! hard to believe that something from the 70's is a classic already. I am getting old.
The guy I got it from bought it new way back when before I was born. Said he shot it a little but then got out of archery. I’m a compound guy so I should have asked the arrow question a little better. Would you shoot like a gold tip traditional or just any plane ol carbon/aluminum with proper spine
Any reason 3 under or split finger would be better than the other? Tab or glove? Remember trad is all new to me.
That bow was built for split finger, tillered for split as three under was not widely used in the early 70's. I think the 1972 models were only available as 25# or 35#. Yours may be a late 1971, depending on medallion and serial number.
Do not push the envelope by using a fast flight string. It was not built for it.
It is not a deeply center cut riser, so centershot will be sensitive to the proper arrow spine. Gotta watch closely for fletching contact with riser or shelf. Are you using a flipper rest or off the shelf? Decide on a fletching style, that influences shaft choice.
Properly broken in and well fitting glove is easy to use, but I prefer a tab.
You will need to know your draw length with this bow. Find a repeatable anchor point.
Start with some 2117 full length or some full length carbon 500/600 spine with 125gr field points. Adding weight to tip weakens spine, cutting down shaft strengthens it. Lean toward carbon, they are so much more durable.
It is not about speed, but about getting the best flight from the best release you can perform.
A tab might be a good choice as well if you want to shoot targets using a chin anchor and a gap or other bare-bow technique. Hoyt used to make a nice little rest with a plastic finger and a raised V on the side; I think it was called a Medalist. Might still be made. Like WTM45 said, check out 3 Rivers. You'll want feathers on your arrows, of course.
Bear could tell me 1972 model but said build date was not recorded. Ok so split fingers it is. Local bow shop said he could build or would have a string that would work. Bear rep said 60” string, but may need a extra twist or two to be tuned properly. Will avoid fast flight type string. This bow has the metal flipper that is recessed into the sight window. Will go carbon then with feathers. So far I have gained a lot of knowledge quickly thanks to you guys.
Wtm do you mind to elaborate more on fletching style influences on shaft choice?
Wtm do you mind to elaborate more on fletching style influences on shaft choice?
Number of fletchings, size and shape, helical or straight, that all influences spine and arrow flight.
If you are only target/stump/foam shooting, and no broadhead hunting or tuning then a simple three fletch 3" shield cut with a mild RH helical will give great results.
Go with what your eye likes to see, both in the quiver and in flight. That breeds confidence!
That bow may be tillered split but is so long it can be shot easily w 3 under. Unless you are a freak and have ridiculously long draw.
I hate gloves, prefer tabs, and if going split like the cheap Kantpinch KP300 calfhair stuff, w spacer. 3 Under I go calfhair again, but with a Blackwidow 3 under tab.
I draw 28.5": and shoot 58" recurves tillered split, off the shelf, 3 under and they are fine. Don't have sausage fingers though.
Shoot 4" helical parabolic, 3 fletch. While that bow is a target rig, should you want to hunt with another recurve you'll be using the same feathers and fletching jig for everything. Kinda nice
Thanks guys. I will watch the video and start some serious reading I guess. I wish this bow was a more hunting recurve lbut oh well. Somewhere to start
Traditional Archery Sales has a Tamerlane in Exc cond, price is at $375 Fleabay has them for all over. RMS gear doesn't show any listed.
Locally a guy had a minty one, no stress lines, wanted 300. I knew the orig owner.....was gonna buy it, but then the fam decided they wanted to keep it.
I didn't need it, hate the grip............but knew the old man, was also a friend of my dads, and my mom shot the same model and # when she was in the local league.........so for $300 I figured why not?
Denied.
LOL.
Anyway, nostalgia or collecting.........only way an old target bow like that is of value. Too many wanting to be serious indoors or 3D.............use more modern stuff.
But ya know what?
That bow was the chit back in the day and great fun can be had just enjoying it for what it is. Hell I shoot bows made in the 70's too.
Actually hunted with a '72 model for last two years, changed to a '75 model (diff model, same brand) and just this yr upgraded to same model but newer, so as to be FF rated. But still an "old bow" type of design.
Because I like it.
I'd shoot the bow you have and enjoy it. Then try other stuff. But do NOT sell that bow that got you started on this journey. Even if you come to favor substantially different gear.
Its a cool bow and somebody else in the fam down the road might take a shine to it. Or maybe you'll pull it down, string it up and shoot it for kicks once in a while.
Cool old bow. Keep it.
I might yet get one like mom had. Or I'll hold out for a Groves.
Hookeye, that is a cool video. Thanks for posting it.
You are most welcome
While I like to talk trad a lot............when new folks come to me I just say "watch this".
I've shot recurves for a while, and found the film enjoyable. 1st time, 2nd time and other. Its mellow, well done...........hell I might play it while drinking beer after work, and setting up my 1991 Blackwidow HS tonight
Yes the bow can be shot either split or three finger under. I can't see where you would have any problems with that. You could most certainly hunt with that bow. I would do as already stated and go three fletchings 4". I know I am going to catch hell for this but its an option regardless if others disagree. You could drill the riser to install a Berger Button if you really wanted to get great arrow flight. If you are just going to shoot for fun then keep it as is and either use the rest on there or shoot off the shelf. I like a tab and a can't pinch is the way to go in my opinion. As for arrow construction. I wouldn't go spending the money on carbon unless I knew I loved the bow and plan to shoot it seriously and hunt it. in 72 nobody shot carbon arrows. But wood and Aluminum still work great. Enjoy your bow. Let us know what you end up doing and how it shoots for you.
One last thing shoot the string untwisted first, Add twist to get it into your optimal brace height.
I dunno how far past center the riser is made. Cushion plunger might not be an option (even w mod).
The shelf will be flat and as a target rig, the grip probably a ways below. So shooting "off the shelf" while possibly of some merit, won't be ideal (full benefit).
To make the decision after some experimentation, one must shoot off the shelf from a bow designed for such. I'm sold on that method.
The OP has a nice bow with which to try various things and have a ball doing so.
Flat shelf bows can be shelf shot just fine, if they add a little something under the bottom pc to act as a point of tangent. Even so, I prefer a riser with a shelf curved for shelf shooting.
Not a condemnation of the OP's bow, far from it..............just saying that while trying this method out, understand that it's not the best representation of that style.
I'd play around w a stick on arrow rest too, place it low on the side plate, and see what that does. Thrust path on that rig proly high and maybe better to be shot elevated. Of course one can tune for wide variety of things.
Sounds to me like the OP has some fun learning ahead
