Home Forums Birds & Dogs Shotguns LH SBE "A-S" stock locking plate....

Good evening. Getting ready for a duck hunt. Oiling and shooting a few clays with the LH SBE. Pulled the butt pad to change some LOP spacers. Noticed that the shotgun has an "A" shim for drop. And an "A" locking plate for stock drop and right hand cast. After checking a few websites, I "think" I actually need an "A-S" stock locking plate to give cast for a left hand shooter. However, I cannot find any shims / lock plates for SBE, let alone for a Left Hand SBE. Plenty of stuff for SBE II and SBE 3. And, it appears that the "A" lock plate will not fit into position if flipped over opposite hand.

Suggestions for procuring an "A-S" lock plate for an SBE ? Or, ways to adapt an "A" lock plate to work as an "A-S" lock plate ?

As always, all constructive suggestions appreciated. Thx !

You need the A SX configuration, if the A is correct for drop height. 3 components. First plastic plate by the action is A. With the A letter upright and facing the rear. Then the SX plastic plate. SX lettering should be upright and towards the rear. Then the stock goes on. Metal plate should have A and SX upright and facing the back of the stock.

Same set for SBE and SBE II

Midwest gun works sells them seperately

Fitted my LH Benelli Montefeltro with a 12 gauge Laser kept playing with shims until it laser was exact where I looked. Credit card shim will work also.

KenMi,
Thanks for the reference to MGW. I hit their site a couple times yesterday before posting w/o luck. Just went back and hit it again. Found the LH SBE adjustment kit. However, picture does not show the A-S lock plate that I need. Only, B, C, and D. I sent them a request off their contact page to see if the A-S is actually included.

KK,
I have not thought of a laser for a shotgun. Have one inbound. Figure cheaper than time and ammo dinking around in the field.

I did put a little "english" on the reversed "A" locking plate to get it to fit into the stock recess. Stock now has visible cast for a left hander which it did not previously. Sighting down the rib appears to be better. Also dealing with being right eye dominant. Been playing with putting a tape spot on right lens of glasses to occlude front bead.

As I thin the herd, this LH SBE is now my one and only shotgun. Focusing on getting the most out of it through fitting and practice. Appreciate everyone's help...

I'm still a bit confused.

Your plates don't say A SX. D SX. Etc?

I had a SBE and now a SBEII, both lefty.

I can't remember the plates the first had, though I believe they were the same

After further looking, I was incorrect before in saying the SBE and SBE II have the same system, and now I remember the odd shaped plates on my SBE. So, in that case, there is only one plastic plate ahead of the stock, and then the appropriate metal plate. Yours is not set up correctly, and that plate cannot be reversed. They had actual left hand and right hand plates in that version.

Some of the descriptions on the site are incorrect as far as what SBE model they fit. But, just go by the pictures, and what yours has, and you will be fine.



Just to verify, is the shape of yours like this? Is this the set you found?
https://www.midwestgunworks.com/page/mgwi/prod/60161

If so, here is the A S plate separately
https://www.midwestgunworks.com/page/mgwi/prod/60267



Anyhow, sounds like all you need to order is the A S plate separately and you should be fine. I wouldn't recommend using it with the right hand plate reversed.

On that site, if you search Benelli Stock plate, most results come up

That looks to be about the only stocking supplier, and their prices are the best anyhow

Ken,

Correct, the SBE and SBE II use different receiver shims. The SBE shim at the rear of the receiver has the square notch at the bottom of the shim. Only one shim at the receiver for drop. The "A-S" lock plate in your last link is the one I think I need. Thank you ! It looks suspiciously like an "A" flipped side to side. However, I will order one after church and confirm when it arrives.

"Looks like" the LH version of the new SBE 3 has all sorts of permutations for cast and drop. Including a "Z" drop configuration that is less drop than the current "A" shims. Even with "A" drop set up, I am still tinkering with a cheek pad to get my face up high enough to see the front bead naturally. If I can't sort the SBE out in the next year, I may trip it and try a new SBE 3.

Again, appreciate everyone's help.

Actually the Z plate has the most drop in the new ones

50, 55, 60, and 65 are the values. Z is 50

50, 55, 60, and 62.5 were the old versions.

A is 50, which is the least drop (highest).

Maybe I looked at too many websites yesterday. Maybe Benelli changed horses at some point. Link below (from 9 years ago) shows Z as less drop than A. I dunno. The 1/4" (6mm) cheek pad is supposed to be here tomorrow. I will get the additional bump up without an additional shim.

Benelli Shooter Forum...

Yeah, I misspoke. On the older version, A is the highest stock drop setting, which is 50. I edited the above post just now

On the new version, Z is the highest stock drop setting, which is also 50.

Here is the chart for the original SBE version:
https://www.bevfitchett.us/benelli-raffaello/drop-change-instructions-see-table-page.html


Here is the owners manual with chart for the SBE3. Page 64 shows the chart
https://www.benelliusa.com/sites/default/files/originals/product-manuals/sbe_3_-_01-2016.pdf

The chart in your first link above is the one that prompted me to pull the butt pad (again) and start exploring. I bought the shotgun used. If I received additional shims or lock plates, I have misplaced them. However, now have the A-S lock plate inbound. Appreciate your help to locate it.

Quick update. The "A-S" lock plate arrived. Appears to be same as an "A" plate flipped 180 degrees side to side. Still need 1/4" to 5/16" additional rise on the comb to get the proper view of top of rib. Tried a 1/4" Cheek Eze pad. It is almost enough for the rise. However, the 1/4" on the side of the stock (wrap around) screws up the cast. Have a balsa block inbound to see if I can whittle a slight riser to sit on top of comb to be fastened with double sided tape.

I would cut a shim from a credit card and use it between the plates. Probably start with two, one covering the bottom 25% and the next covering the bottom 50%.

Factory adjustment comes from moving the location of the hole on the lock plate. the balsa whittling is easier for me to pull off on my own. If I don't get what I want with the balsa, thinking that I will try filing the existing plate to add a little more cast and raise the comb. If that works properly, will have SIL braze proper size washer over the hole to make the adjustment permanent.