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I installed the bar and 4lb spring in my G26 G5 and ran a few hundred rounds through it along with my 19 G4 yesterday. It's smoother and lighter than the stock 19 but I still shoot the 19 better than the 26. I will install the same kit in the 19 and 20 G4, it's a nice improvement for 35 bucks but certainly didn't help my shooting much (grin)

I loaded a thousand rounds of 124gr FMJ Wednesday and will keep practicing.

.


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I had a Ghost 3.5 for awhile but didn't like that it made the break spongy in every Glock I tried it in. I gave it away and on a whim, ordered a pre-polished OEM 4.5 connector from one of the purveyors of perfection enhancement. I played with it in a couple of Glocks and found it to produce a much better break- just like the typical Glock, but crisp and 1 1/4 pounds lighter, per my RCBS trigger scale.

It sat unused in my parts box until recently, when I acquired a trade-in G30SF-3. It was one of those oddball Glocks that for whatever reason, leave the factory with a 7+ pound pull. I fully expected to find a NY-1 when I looked inside, but it was equipped with the basic 5.5# OEM part. I plugged in the OEM 4.5 and polished the drop safety plunger, which was rougher than I've seen one leave the factory. The result was a short take-up, a hard stop with a 5# crisp break at the end. Very shootable but heavy enough for daily carry.


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I got one, I am still not happy. The best trigger on any Glock I have is the factory one in my Gen2 model 21. I believe it is 4 pounds or at least that's what the box has one it.

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Might just be an easier way...


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RDW Offline OP
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Easier way to what?


Dave

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Originally Posted by RDW
Easier way to what?


Some guys like to jump at any excuse to bash Glocks, don't worry about it. Personally, I've found room for improvement in the triggers of every pistol I've ever owned, Glocks are no exception or specialty there.

One thing I've found over the years with Glocks is the trigger feel can vary a lot, and each individual gun may need different tweaks to get the trigger feel I like. As a result, no two Glocks in my safe have the same trigger setup in them, every one is different even though the final result is similar in most of them. With that said, the first place I start with a stock Glock trigger is a factory "-" connector and a gen 3 trigger (for gen 4 pistols). I also like to use some sort of overtravel stop, but YMMV.

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I agree with Yondering in that there is a lot of variance with Glock triggers & that does sometimes require different parts to get them all close to the same point.

But nonetheless, the starting point for me is always to polish parts, G3 smooth trigger, Zev V4 or Glockstore Double Diamond connector & a 6 lb competition trigger spring...............yes, I know a heavier spring sounds counter intuitive, but it almost always makes the trigger more crisp.

Eventually all mine turn out to be around 4.5 lb with a shorter than stock rest and a more crisp feel.

The only thing I've done on a G5 gun is to put a new connector in & it's the most crisp Glock trigger that I own.

MM

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I don't have experience with a large number of handguns, a Ruger MK1 and 22/45 Lite-SST (Super [bleep] Trigger), a GP100 then a few years with 1911's including Auto Ordinance, Springfield and my last and best, a first year Kimber Classic. It's been so long, ~15 years I don't even remember what the Kimber trigger felt like. I bought my first Glock when I decided I wanted a 10mm and read about the SF that gave my short fingers a good but not optimum grip.

I was unaware of the love hate surrounding the Glock but it makes no difference to me. Glock has a long history with M&P and I want a DAO handgun for self defense.

My research on the Ghost transfer bar was it minimized stacking, lightened the pull weight, provided a cleaner break and improved the reset, it did minimize the stacking and rolling break, the reset feels about the same to but it does not seem to be hugely different, just better.

I was not aware there were differences between G1-G5 triggers so I need to put the stock transfer bar back in the 26 and compare the difference again.



Originally Posted by Yondering
Originally Posted by RDW
Easier way to what?


Some guys like to jump at any excuse to bash Glocks, don't worry about it. Personally, I've found room for improvement in the triggers of every pistol I've ever owned, Glocks are no exception or specialty there.

One thing I've found over the years with Glocks is the trigger feel can vary a lot, and each individual gun may need different tweaks to get the trigger feel I like. As a result, no two Glocks in my safe have the same trigger setup in them, every one is different even though the final result is similar in most of them. With that said, the first place I start with a stock Glock trigger is a factory "-" connector and a gen 3 trigger (for gen 4 pistols). I also like to use some sort of overtravel stop, but YMMV.



Can you explain this in more detail?



Originally Posted by MontanaMan
I agree with Yondering in that there is a lot of variance with Glock triggers & that does sometimes require different parts to get them all close to the same point.

But nonetheless, the starting point for me is always to polish parts, G3 smooth trigger, Zev V4 or Glockstore Double Diamond connector & a 6 lb competition trigger spring...............yes, I know a heavier spring sounds counter intuitive, but it almost always makes the trigger more crisp.

Eventually all mine turn out to be around 4.5 lb with a shorter than stock rest and a more crisp feel.

The only thing I've done on a G5 gun is to put a new connector in & it's the most crisp Glock trigger that I own.

MM



What connector are you using in the G5?

There is a 6lb spring in the kit so I will try it.


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Originally Posted by RDW


What connector are you using in the G5?

There is a 6lb spring in the kit so I will try it.


GlockStore's Double Diamond; I will eventually try the Zev connector too too just see which one I like better, but right now the DD is plenty good enough.

This is the only Gen 5 gun that I've done anything with, so I'd like to hear about your spring kit change if you end up trying it.

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RDW, which part were you wanting more detail about?

The gen 3 trigger bar doesn't apply if you already have a gen 3 or earlier pistol, that's just for the gen 4.

Gen 5 trigger parts are completely different than any of the earlier generations, and warrant a separate discussion if that's what you have.

The factory "-" connector is the lightest connector Glock sells; it comes in the G34 & G35 competition guns, and is roughly equivalent to most of the aftermarket 3.5 or 4.5 lb connectors. I generally prefer the OEM Glock part for quality and the slick coating on it, but again, there is enough variation that sometimes there are exceptions.


Some basics about gen 1-4 Glock triggers that may help you:

- A lower connector weight rating (like 3.5 or 4.5 lb) reduces pull weight but typically makes the break feel more mushy. The differences in the connectors is simply the ramp angle that drives the trigger bar cruciform down off the striker.
- Increasing trigger spring weight gives a lighter trigger pull. Yes, that's backwards from most guns, but these springs pull up and back. I like an extra power trigger spring in most of mine.
- Increasing striker spring weight gives a heavier trigger pull, and the increase is pretty linear. I usually don't like to use reduced power striker springs, since it can result in light strikes and failures to fire.

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Originally Posted by Yondering
Originally Posted by RDW
Easier way to what?


Some guys like to jump at any excuse to bash Glocks, don't worry about it. Personally, I've found room for improvement in the triggers of every pistol I've ever owned, Glocks are no exception or specialty there.

One thing I've found over the years with Glocks is the trigger feel can vary a lot, and each individual gun may need different tweaks to get the trigger feel I like. As a result, no two Glocks in my safe have the same trigger setup in them, every one is different even though the final result is similar in most of them. With that said, the first place I start with a stock Glock trigger is a factory "-" connector and a gen 3 trigger (for gen 4 pistols). I also like to use some sort of overtravel stop, but YMMV.



I never thought about that much, but I agree. I have 5 different Glocks and they vary slightly in triggers.

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Originally Posted by Yondering
RDW, which part were you wanting more detail about?

The gen 3 trigger bar doesn't apply if you already have a gen 3 or earlier pistol, that's just for the gen 4.

Gen 5 trigger parts are completely different than any of the earlier generations, and warrant a separate discussion if that's what you have.

The factory "-" connector is the lightest connector Glock sells; it comes in the G34 & G35 competition guns, and is roughly equivalent to most of the aftermarket 3.5 or 4.5 lb connectors. I generally prefer the OEM Glock part for quality and the slick coating on it, but again, there is enough variation that sometimes there are exceptions.


Some basics about gen 1-4 Glock triggers that may help you:

- A lower connector weight rating (like 3.5 or 4.5 lb) reduces pull weight but typically makes the break feel more mushy. The differences in the connectors is simply the ramp angle that drives the trigger bar cruciform down off the striker.
- Increasing trigger spring weight gives a lighter trigger pull. Yes, that's backwards from most guns, but these springs pull up and back. I like an extra power trigger spring in most of mine.
- Increasing striker spring weight gives a heavier trigger pull, and the increase is pretty linear. I usually don't like to use reduced power striker springs, since it can result in light strikes and failures to fire.




I have a Gen4 G19 and G20 so this is great information, I did not understand what a "-" connector is or that increasing the trigger spring weight decreases trigger pull.


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Glad to help. Further info on connector markings (for Glock OEM) - the common ones are:

"+" (heavy)
no mark (standard weight)
"." (reduced weight, stock in gen 4 guns)
"-" (lightest, stock in G34, G35, G17L, and G24 iirc)

These marks are stamped into the connector and can be seen with the slide removed from the gun; the markings are on the inner face of the little bent ear that sticks up vertically from the connector (that ear is the reset leg btw.)

Also - gen 4 guns typically need one step lighter connector than gen 3 to achieve the same trigger pull weight. This is because of the difference in the ejector housing (Glock calls it a trigger housing) and the changes that were made to make the gen 4 grip smaller. Again, there are plenty of exceptions, but that is why the "." connector is standard in the gen 4.

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Originally Posted by Yondering
Glad to help. Further info on connector markings (for Glock OEM) - the common ones are:

"+" (heavy)
no mark (standard weight)
"." (reduced weight, stock in gen 4 guns)
"-" (lightest, stock in G34, G35, G17L, and G24 iirc)

These marks are stamped into the connector and can be seen with the slide removed from the gun; the markings are on the inner face of the little bent ear that sticks up vertically from the connector (that ear is the reset leg btw.)

Also - gen 4 guns typically need one step lighter connector than gen 3 to achieve the same trigger pull weight. This is because of the difference in the ejector housing (Glock calls it a trigger housing) and the changes that were made to make the gen 4 grip smaller. Again, there are plenty of exceptions, but that is why the "." connector is standard in the gen 4.



I will try the "-" on the 19 and compare it to the EVO in the 26.



Originally Posted by MontanaMan
Originally Posted by RDW


What connector are you using in the G5?

There is a 6lb spring in the kit so I will try it.


GlockStore's Double Diamond; I will eventually try the Zev connector too too just see which one I like better, but right now the DD is plenty good enough.

This is the only Gen 5 gun that I've done anything with, so I'd like to hear about your spring kit change if you end up trying it.

MM



I replaced the firing pin spring with the 4lb spring in the kit and the plunger spring, the instructions state the trigger spring is not used in a Gen 5. Watching the cutaway videos, I am not sure if the firing pin spring affects the trigger feel. If the answer is no, should I use the stock spring or the 6lb spring?




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Originally Posted by RDW


I replaced the firing pin spring with the 4lb spring in the kit and the plunger spring, the instructions state the trigger spring is not used in a Gen 5. Watching the cutaway videos, I am not sure if the firing pin spring affects the trigger feel. If the answer is no, should I use the stock spring or the 6lb spring?




The striker spring (it's a striker in these guns, rather than a firing pin) definitely affects trigger pull weight. That's the main force you're pulling against when you pull the trigger.

Be careful with a 4 lb spring in that 19, and shoot a ton of live ammo through it before you trust it. Every one I've tried ends up with light strikes sooner or later unless you go with one of the aftermarket strikers that are made for light springs, but I don't trust those for reliability either.

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What Yondering said; I've yet to use a lighter striker spring on any on the half dozen Glocks I have.

If you are talking about a race gun or a toy for games, OK, maybe; for anything used for SD or home defense, I just have not seen the need.

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Sounds good, the 4lb striker spring is in the Gen 5 G26 but I am fine switching back to stock.

I appreciate the comments, I will order the (-) spring for the Gen 4 G19 and try that and compare the feel to the G26.


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I want to try the (-) connector in the G19.4 and it's inlcluded with the Overwatch Precision flat trigger that I would also like to try.

Thoughts on this?


Dave

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I'm not real sold on a flat trigger in a Glock, although I do have one (different brand) in my carry gun. YMMV, some guys like them a lot and it's really just personal preference.

I don't have any personal experience with that Overwatch trigger, but would guess it's probably just a different trigger shoe on a stock Glock trigger bar. Most of your trigger pull improvement will come from the "-" connector, but you might like the feel of the flat trigger too.

Just be careful to avoid triggers that claim to remove or reduce most of the pre-travel. (I don't know if the Overwatch trigger does that, but some brands do.) That pre-travel is one of the safety features of a Glock (it cocks the striker before firing) and IMO removing it is a bad idea for a carry gun. For a competition gun, have at it, just be safe.

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I am pretty sure they use the (-) connector but Robar coated.

The 19.4 is in play mode and the 26.5 other than the Ghost connector is stock and my carry gun.


Dave

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