Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Elk Hunting Browning BAR 338 or 6.5-06 for Elk

I have been shooting my BAR MK II Safari in 338 quite a bit to practice for my annual Elk Hunt. I am thinking of switching to this gun or my 6.5-06, as I have always used my Sako 300 WSM, but sold it to fund a 6.5 CM Bergara

Where we hunt shots are 200 - 400 yds typically unless we get lucky. I had always shot Barnes 210 and 225's on the BAR - and noticed that accuracy was at first good then opened up quite a bit after about 6 shots (I was giving it plenty of time to cool) I think it was due to to barrel fouling from copper as there was quite a bit when I cleaned it. I switched to a Nosler 225 AB with 75 g of H 4831SC - velocity 2785 and have been very happy - I am getting under 1 in groups and do not have to clean the gun after every 10 shots.

With the BOSS - the recoil is far less punishing than my unbraked 300 WSM - ( I will switch the Boss for the solid CR for the hunt)

I bought a ton of Barnes bullets and loaded ammo before I figured out that the barrel was fouling, because I like to practice - I also wonder whether the factory Browning Barrel is more prone to fouling than a button or cut that has been lapped

I would appreciate any comments on the Barnes and using the BAR 338 for Elk. My only other option in my 6.5-06 Sako which pushes 143 ELD X at 2806 in a 22.25 barrel. This is a pound lighter and perhaps a better choice ?? Here is the load data for my 6.5-06 handloads at 8500 feet elevation and 35 degrees

500yd s -45.2 drop 10.5 wind 2271 velocity 1638 energy - Typically I will not take a shot over 400 yds unless I have been sitting and freezing for 4 days and only see one animal LOL I chose to illustrate 500 yds because this is my limit - the table shows the round carrying over 2000fps and 1500 lbs minimum recommended by the State of CO out past 600yds - the Sako is also shooting better than I can - 1in or less

Any knowledgeable comments on the rifles or ammo would be greatly appreciated. I love both rifles and my son and I treasure our yearly Elk hunts even when we come up empty handed. He shoots my old A Bolt 7 Mag that I gave him

The .338 Win Mag is an elk killing machine, but the 6.5-06 will get it done with room to spare as well. That said I prefer simplicity and would prefer not to carry an auto loader for an elk rifle. I wouldn't feel undergunned at all with the 6.5 with a 143 ELD X.

I'd take both to be honest. Always nice to have a back up on a trip.

Big fan of the 338 on elk, it's never failed to impress me or them, but it is probably more of a comfort thing. If you shoot both about the same I'd build my drop cards and have fun. No wrong answer with either one of them.

My first thought is that there's no way I'd willingly hump a BAR through the mountains. YMMV but it ain't for me.
I don't see at all why the 6.5 you list would be an inferior choice. Plenty of great elk bullets to choose from in the 6.5.

My thoughts exactly. Every ounce matters at 10,000' elevation.

^ This

Your going to carry it way more than your going to shoot it....and that 6.5 is going to be much easier to shoot well.
I sold my .338 go years ago for just that reason.....been killing elk with my 6.5 cm ever since.

Blacktail53

What’s your 6.5 CM load for elk?

I guess we all have our favorites and reasons we prefer or try to avoid certain rifles use.
I've used a browning BAR in 338 on a couple hunts, and found it worked very well,
I used hornady 250 grain over a mid range load of WW760
Id sure stick with the 338 vs the 6.5mm, In my mind Id be thinking , I may only get one decent shot, and a 225-250 grain .338 in the vitals is more likely to produce the damage Id prefer than a 6.5mm thats 60-100 grains lighter

BTW if you clean the bore very carefully
cleaning the bore Of each firearm with a lot of solvent soaked patches,
(old cotton sheets cut into 1"x3" rectangles work ok on most rifles )
and a brass bore brush until you have no trace of jacket or lead fouling,
then , after the bores squeaky clean, soaking a couple patches , until they drip, with moly spray and working it back and forth in the bore surface, and repeatedly soaking those patches with moly, to coat the rifling with a good film of moly, then swabbing the bore clean with a solvent patch and dry patch, seems to very noticeably reduce future bore fouling
Moly exists as microscopic hexagonal crystal platelets Several molecules make up one of these platelets. A single molecule of Moly contains two sulfur atoms and one molybdenum atom. Moly platelets are attracted to metal surfaces. This attraction and the force of moving surfaces in contact, rubbing across one another provide the necessary thermochemical reaction necessary for Moly to form an overlapping protective coating like armor on the rifle bore surface, This protective armor coating has a number of properties that are very beneficial for your rifles bore surface



The Moly platelets that make up the protective layers on your bore wall surfaces slide across one another very easily. Instead of metal rubbing against metal, you have Moly platelets moving across one another protecting and lubricating the bore to projectile surface contact

This coating effectively fills in the microscopic pores that cover the surface of all micro bore imperfections making them smoother. By filling in the craters and pores Moly improves this seal

This overlapping coating of Moly also gives protection against loading (perpendicular) forces. The high pressures that occur between these moving surfaces that tend to squeeze normal lubricants out.

Thanks for all the feedback - I am getting rid of the 338 BAR - too much muzzle blast, poor balance, big and bulky and the 3 round semi-auto is negated by the time it takes to get back on target after the considerable muzzle rise. I always wanted one and now I had it and it is time to make room in the safe. The 6.5-06 with the 143 ELDx should be sufficient.

Stopped using my 338 years ago. Still have it,just never shoot it. Switched to a 6.5-06, 260 Rem, 6.5x55. All using Barnes 120gr TSX. Never have recovered a bullet with any of them. Bullet placement & a tough deep penetration bullet of prime importance. The 6.5's work.

I like the Barnes and bought many boxes in all calibers - I did notice that they foul a few of my factory barrels and it causing inaccuracy, especially if I switch to other makers like Hornady or Swift in the same rifle. I end up having to spend quite a bit of time cleaning the copper - I notice because the groups start to open up after about 10 -15 rounds. I think the Cold Hammer Forged factory barrels are not lapped or something else and they are rougher so they grab the copper more - just a theory.

The Barnes are quite accurate - If I decide to hunt with them I will clean the barrel completely, and fire three or 4 to foul the barrel a bit then put it away ready for the next hunt.

The 6.5-06 is one of my favorite calibers, easy to make brass with multiple cheap options, easy to load and almost the same velocity as the much talked about new PRC.

I think you made a good choice. I shoot autoloaders in shotguns but I've yet to find an autoloading rifle that I really like. I never spent much time with a BAR but a buddy brought a 7mm along on a couple of moose hunts. I helped in and out of the boat with it and thought wow, if the anchor fails, we've got a backup right here.

Surely a “trick question” ! The .338 WM is a supreme elk cartridge. Most anything will do.....the .338, just does it better! memtb

Question: Browning BAR 338 or 6.5-06 for Elk

Answer: Yes.

If you choose bullets up to the task, I’d give the edge to the 6.5-06 as the better elk cartridge. However, either will obviously do a fine job if the recoil of the .338 doesn’t effect you to the point of not being supremely accurate. Of course, the BAR platform helps a little bit with that.

The 6.5-06 with a 142g Long Range AccuBond or 143g ELD-X will do just fine.

The older I get the more I appreciate lighter and lighter recoiling rifles when humping the hills.