Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Elk Hunting Getting the most out of my .30-06: Ammunition Selection

I did a cull once and used a .270 and .30/06 side by side on many dozens of animals using a range of factory and handloads for each.
In the end I found the .30/06 had the higher percentage of instant drops between the 2 cartridge but the surprise for me was that it didn't matter weather I was using pip squeek factory loads shooting 2-300fps under hand loads, the results were still favoring the .30/06.

I put this down to a caliber difference and wound size being the distinguishing factor.

This simply means I don't care what the bullet and load is, if I have a .30/06 in my hand, I have already been impressed.

To me the first consideration for hunting should always be terminal ballistics over aerial ballistics - just because you can hit something at six or seven hundred yards, doesn't mean squat, if the bullet doesn't consistently and quickly kill the animal. So if you are concerned with long range, I agree with JG Raider - both Barnes and Nosler have long-range versions of their respective 'flagship' rounds, the TTSX and the Accubond.

After speaking with a Barnes tech rep, I was surprised to learn that the mettalurgy/bullet composition of the TTSX and LRX is relatively unchanged and differ only in the shape/BC. Further, I was told that the minimum impact velocity across all caliber for both the TTSX and LRX is in the range of 1750-1900fps (smaller caliber to larger caliber) so I would assume 1850 or so for the 308 bullets. My personal experience with Barnes TSX-TTSX-LRX has been mixed in that I'm of the opinion, their expansion performance is just as dependent on impact resistance as impact velocity - in other words, I've lung shot a deer at calculated impact velocities of 2500+ consistently resulting in clean pass-through, even after impacting rib bones; however, when shooting through the shoulder(s) the bullet always performed as designed.

Nosler states the impact velocity for In the regular Accubond, as well as the Partition and Ballistic Tip is 1800fps. However, for the long-range Accubond (LRAB) the minimum effective impact velocity 1300fps with no maximum velocity listed. That gives you a lot more versatility - and much more effective range than the Barnes. I (or family members) have shot two deer with LRAB bullets (6.5-142gr) but more with regular AB's in 25, 6.5, 284, and 308 and all mushroomed well with soft-tissue hits as seen by the significant wound channels. I have not heard or read anywhere that the 'softer' LRAB's have performed any less than the traditional.

I can not speak for the Berger bullets as I have not done enough research to be comfortable with the "grenade" effect of their bullet line - not putting it down, it's just not something I know enough about to put my reliance on; however, it goes without saying that everything being equal, the Berger line of bullets are very accurate and many swear by them.

To summarize, I would recommend the 168 Long Range Accubond - it's 1.39" long with G1 BC of .525. If your rifle has a twist of 12" or quicker, it should stabilize well in your 30-06 if you are handloading. If you are looking for loaded ammunitions, Nosler sells this in their Trophy Long Range line with the ballistics below:

Yards MV (FPS) Energy(FT-LBS) Drop(Inches) with 200-yard Zero
MUZ: 2800 2924 -1.5
100: 2652 2623 +1.8
200: 2504 2338 0
300: 2360 2078 -7.5
400: 2222 1841 -21.7
500: 2088 1625 -43.5
600: 1958 1430 -74.1
700: 1834 1254 -115.0
800: 1715 1097 -167.9

How many elk have you shot?

None Brad. I was not speaking from any position based on experiences shooting elk; I clearly said than my only experience with two of the bullets mentioned was with deer. I offered an opinion based on the ballistics involved. Sorry if I'm out of line with that.

Two things: Maybe 3.

1. Fire your rifle for group and drop (don't depend just on the charts) out to what you consider acceptable range (500 is a loooong way- I've done it on the open tundra) under simulated field conditions and positions). Then recalibrate your thinking to what you and your rifle can actually accept ethically, from field positions.

I have an '06 that bench shoots 3 into an inch at 300 yards. with a good rest - that's a thousand yard gun - in my hands, with a good field rest, on game it is a 500 yarder....

2. Get a good rangefinder. Nothing below an "800", and waterproof. 1,000 or more is better yet. Those are generally the maximum ranges they will work on reflective targets under very good to perfect conditions

And remember the rough drop rule for most big game cartridges. With a 200 yard zero (or a bit more), It is 8, 24, 48 in hundred yard increments, 300-500 yards. You likely won't have time to consult a chart taped to your butt. Stock, that is.... . 8,24,48 is real easy to remember, and an inch or two either way from the chart/actual shooting trials isn't going to make much difference in the field, on game. And it is almost perfect for the '06 cartridge. 8, X3, X2. (From here o. out, everything is roughly X@ for drop - of course, the farther out, the more "loose" it gets - don'tgo there....

3. If you can, get a chunk of freezer, refridgerator, or other large piece of cardboard box and make yourself a life size cut-out of an elk and play with it at all ranges. This includes using the duplex (if you have one) of your scope for quick and dirty range estimations.. shot placements for familiarization.

It is unlikely you will be taking an elk beyond "point-blank" range of 300 yards anyway, but every little bit helps.

I killed my first elk (bull) this last Nov. with a 30-06 and Nosler 165 AB at 225 yds. I was so excited I completely missed on the first shot but the second shot he went down like a rock. I had shot 200+ rounds out to 300 yds that spring & summer getting ready for the hunt. I like the 165 AB and will use the same load come this fall.

I hunt elk with a 30-06 and 180 grain Nosler Partitions with Spitzer points, hand-loaded to perform like a .300 magnum (61 grains RL22 – 2,870 fps). It might seem simpler to just use a .300 magnum but I already have the '06 and the hand-load has a trajectory that is close enough to factory loads Federal Premium 30-06, 150 grain Sierra Game King BTSP that I can switch loads without adjusting my scope.

I've only shot 4 elk, 3 bulls and a cow, 2 with the 300 Win Mag and 180 NPT's and 2 with the 35 Whelen and 225 gr NPT's all under 200 yds. I could have used a 30-06 with blue boxed Fed 180's bought on sale at Walmart for all the difference it would have made. For a new guy at elk hunting I think you are over thinking this a little. AS others have pointed out You should not be thinking of taking a 500 yd shot period, it's usually windy in elk country. Last fall Walmart was running 180gr blue box stuff out at $11.97/ a box. Could have bought a 10 box case, sighted the rifle in at 200 yds checked the zero at 300 & 400,burned 4-5 boxes on a dog town, and used the rest on elk and deer for a couple of years. That's probably a hell of a lot more ammo prep than 90% of what the others hunting elk do. KISS principle and yeah I think you need a simpler scope too. Good boots +10, Physical conditioning for rough terrain and high altitude + 100. Best of luck and most important of all enjoy the experience for what is. MB

you have gotten great advice

i have an a-bolt 30-06

i use hornady 165g superperformance these days
i have gotten 6 elk in the last few years, none went far, 3 at 400y others much closer
the abolt shoots 2 -2.5" groups at 300y w the 165's

get a chronograph
a bipod
a rear rest
a laser range finder rated to 800y +
try out at least 5 brands of ammo for accuracy
understand how a dirty or hot barrel effects accuracy
make sure there is no wind when testing for accuracy

pick the ammo from your test results

zero at 240y

practice at 300y

don't forget to use a ballistics program to see how altitude effects range and drop

when you get out west, test at 300y at altitude

limit your "on purpose" shots to 400y, you may need a follow up at longer range

if they are out past 400y, get closer, 300y (the distance you practice to) would be ideal

you will knock em dead

Of the 9 elk I have taken, 7 of them were with a 270 and 150 gr Nosler partition. The other 2 were taken with an 06 one with a Sierra boat tail cup and core, the other with a Hornady spire point. Off all of these the longest shot was 350 yards with most 150 yards or less. I have no experience with Bergers but have mixed reports from trusted friends if the shot is high velocity and short range. No personal experience so I'm sure the Noslers and Barnes would be great

How was your penetration on the hard angling shots, with the 150PT? How fast were you pushing it too? I'm just getting back into the .270W so am very interested!

Jim_Knight. I only recall two of those shots at any significant angle and both were anchored just fine. Both of those Noslers were recovered on the far side plenty of penetration. I pushed them with IMR 4831 at 2800 fps from a 24 inch Weatherby MkV

Great info everyone. Thanks for taking the time to drop in your 2 cents. Many things mentioned have been very thought provoking. Can’t wait to hit the range this spring!

30-06 is never wrong".

Some like it, some don't.

I like it.

Well, I doubt it can be considered too light, nor too much. The cartridge has earned the respect to be considered the standard. My own whim is to pair the 30-06 with a 180 Partition. Something very right about that combo to me.

I haven’t read all the replies.
But I’d go to 168 ttsx overthe 180.
Monos work better when going faster.
I’d also look at federal trophy bonded over the bergers

I shoot the 165 TTSX in my .30-06. Speed is everything with monometals. Most factory 180s don’t actually make 2,700 fps when chronographed.

Agreed. Most are 2,600-2,650 but a few will surprise you especially in a 24" barrel. Federal's 180-grain Partition load (P3006F) has clocked 2,550-2,600 in several of my rifles, even those with 24" barrels.


Okie John

I checked the velocity on factory TTSX 168 in 30/06 from a tikka.
IF my memory serves me right, it was 2770/2760 fps

If I were to use the 30-06 again, for elk, I'd use either the Nosler 200PT or 168 TTSX. If I was limited ( or just chose to use them) to factory loads, I'd try out the Superformance 165 GMX, or Vortex 168TTSX. If I could get my hands on them, some of the "boutique" factory loads; i.e. Double Tap, Buffalo Bore, some HSM loads, etc. Elk are "just the right" animals for monos, then Premiums, then heavy for caliber cup n core. This is only my opinion as I too have killed a lot of game with Remington/Winchester/Federal factory loads, mostly in 30-30 and 30-06. East Texas deer are more to be compared to pronghorn as far as being, what I call, 'delicate". Now hogs...now we are getting back into the physiology that is "perfect" for Monos. If a load won't shoot all the way through a big hog on a hard angle, you are better off using it later by shooting any elk through the ribs ( heart/lungs) on hogs, I'm not talking "Hogzilla either", nor small ones, but full grown ( preferable 250+) "To my observations", if a man is "itching" to see how his elk load ( of any suitable caliber) will do, go pig hunting (or shooting) but examine the bullet wound, penetration, etc. Its fun, plus very educational. Whats hard for me is I was raised to "only shoot that hog behind the ear, Son!" ha Its hard for me to intentionally take out both shoulders (or at least one on a bad angle).