Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Savage Collectors Savage 1920/26 project

This is the 1926 version so some of it might be a little different than earlier versions (we found that out with part 20-58 - stock escutcheon in a different thread) . I have never worked on another other than making a couple of trigger guard screws and the stock inserts, that did not require looking at the rest of the gun, this is the first I have had to deal more than that, and it came in parts, with some missing and one major one broken, I did not have another gun to reference so it has been a long time getting it finished.

Since I got the gun in parts and never had another one apart before, or an example to go by, the start of the project was to gather information -

Late parts list


early parts list, same picture, different part numbers

following are from catalog #61


Patent drawings, these are from the same pattent but show two different designs for the safety and some other things that differ from production guns -

This is page two and shows a different safety design -


Parts inventory, this is as received with all the small parts in a plastic bag.
The stock had been broken through the wrist and was repaired when I got it.
When the stock broke it also broke part # 20-2049 which became the major issue for reassembly.


parts that were missing -
- 99-11, Barrel Stud, (same part as used on 99's) made a usable replacement from a rear sight dovetail that had a screw on blade, not the same as original but works.
- 99-421, For-End Screw, (same part as used on 99's) used a screw from a kit & reduced the head diameter, fully thread, original was not.
- 20-2047, Safety Bar Catch, made one from the shaft of an old .125" drill bit.
- 20-2048, Safety Bar Catch Spring, cut down a spring from something else.
- 20-2052, Safety Screw Washer, turned one from bar stock.
- not listed - Trigger Spring, found a spring that fit.
- not listed - Bolt Stop Plunger Screw, had it but the threads were stripped, cut down a screw from a kit and reduced the head diameter to fit.
broken part - 20-2049, Safety Bar Post, used part of the old piece and made a piece to repair it.
The front sight and butt plate were also missing, I could not find correct replacements so I fabricated these to use until original's can be found.
I'm still looking for sling eye's, the front hole has the escutcheon in it

...picture limit reached...cont... for 4 more posts

The gun belongs to another member who acquired it all in parts.

This is what that all looks like as of this posting, still a couple details I might address, the front sight is to low and the butt plate could use more rounding and a finer polish done lengthwise this time, I also think I have found some sling eye's for the hook type sling that will work. -





I rushed putting out the pictures because there are a couple others working on 1920's & I think some of this might help them. The following is an attempt to document the complete repair & assembly - this is not something I would have done if it weren't already in parts, so I thought this was the only opportunity to do so.



part 20-58 - late version, the early type screwed in -


Stock attachment


detail of broken part - this part works like a rivet and once the parts are together and the end flared out it is supposed to be a permanent attachment, it apparently broke when the stock did.There also is a plug that is supposed to be inserted in it that has a hole for the safety plunger & spring, all that was was missing.

There was an attempt made to braze these parts together before I got them, this left some residue and surface damage on the parts and not all of that could be removed or the parts would end up undersized, this caused some problems with my attempt to braze it, as did my use of the wrong flux on the first try - it doesn't look good but it is very solid and much stronger than the original riveting.






The bolt stop plunger keeps the bolt from falling out by it's own weight it the trigger is pulled with the bolt open-

bolt parts & assembly


extractor just snaps on without tools... if you've got strong thumbs....


the firing pin spring has to be wound slightly and set in one of the four slots to keep the firing pin from unscrewing,
I set it so if the firing pin is turned out, the spring will turn it back in.


bolt assembly - final, the firing pin assembly just screws in, the cocking piece has to be pulled out on the final few turns to clear.
Turn it in until it bottoms out & then back off to the cocked position notch.

The bolt could be completely disassembly & put back together without tools... if you have strong fingers...


Links to more not so interesting pictures of butt plate being made -
https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/gallery/80/full/90858.jpg
https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/gallery/80/full/90859.jpg
https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/gallery/80/full/90860.jpg

Lyman #54 bolt peep - this is a new, undamaged one for reference -


This is the one that was with the gun -






Marble's S-20... since I finally had a version of a 1920 to show them with....

Well done Gene....

Whew! Thanks, Gene!

GREAT!

Needs to be a STICKIE for reference. Thanks for posting.

I nominate Gene for "National Treasure" status!, ...we just won't be able to pay him until after the shut down,
(..sorry, that just slipped out). Absolutely stellar service to the community Gene, Thank You!!

Gene what are your dimensions for #20-2047? I need to make one of those for my project rifle.

Thanks!

I don't know! It has to be put in from the bottom of part 20-2049 and the hole in that was about 0.125", so I took an old .125 drill bit & chucked it up backwards in a drill & ground it to the shape pictured, just guessing at the length. the picture shows it as originally made, I found that to be a little to long so I just ground it a little shorter, again just guessing - make it look like the picture, but a little shorter. It has to be able to almost go all the way into the hole when compressed. I used an old drill bit so it would be hard steel, it probably could be softer without a problem. (I suppose I could disassemble everything again and measure it......... NOT!)

Wow. This one needs a link in the Misc Good Info thread!

Great job, Gene!

Very cool. With the exception of the pistol grip and caliber, its a dead ringer for my 20/26.

Gene, I'm wondering if a 99G buttplate would be a better and easier fit, we've often wondered if they used the G barrels on the 20's so I'm also wondering if a G buttplate might work with the stock.

Nice #54, you don't usually see the type with the small screw windage, usually it's the knob type.

I have a dismounted 1920 barrel in 300. Is there anything I can check or measure to confirm this? To my eye, with the exception of the breech, it's identical to a 99 barrel. It makes sense to me that Savage would have used a 99 barrel on the 1920 series guns.

Don't have a 99 G, but from the pictures it looks like the butt plate has a slight forwards curve at the bottom and much more of a forward curve at the top - this stock has just the slightest forward curve at the top and none at the bottom, it's the same continuous curve all the way to the toe. I tried several butt plates including some from 99's, the ones from the 99's were about the right size but had way to much reverse curve at the top & bottom, all the others I had were to small - way short in the toe..... anyway, I wanted to see if I could make one, same with the front sight...

I do not see any indication that the butt of the stock has been modified, it's still exactly the way I got it. The butt plates I tried are from much later than the gun.

Another splendid lesson. I wish I had your skills. Keep them coming Gene.

I found some more information on the Lyman 54 & the front sight specifications for the 1920's from a Lyman catalog, according to it I was really close on the front sight dimensions that I came up with by putting a straight edge on the top of the receiver. I see there is an break point of serial 9000 for front sights, the specs show the only difference to be the length of the sight - this is 37/64 and the earlier was 21/64.

WOW, thanks Gene, thorough doesn't touch this. Thank you.

I had an early E in 250-3000 and a early 1920 chambered the same. Barrel roll marks were identical and contour looked the same to me.

Steve, this is further confirmation that some left over 1920 barrels were used up on 99's. The patent dates are for the 1920 not the 99. The different barrel markings are shown in my book.

That wouldn't surprise at all David. The 1920 was SN 1982 and 239835 on the E. I've attached a pic of the E roll mark. Do not have the 1920 in my files.