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I don't shoot a crawl.
All my rigs were tillered split.
They shot fine with 3 under too, just had to make minor adjustments.
If doing the fixed crawl like in the Push video, I would think ILF the way to go (for tiller adj).

Nice to have the ability to adjust, even if you end up not needing to.
Experimentation is half the fun.

Yeah I don't change Tiller but like you said it's not a bad thing to have it. The Dorado did not have it. Hoyt took basically everything in an olympic bow and put it into a hunting package.

I shoot split fingers, my Satori has sights. My Toelke Takedown Whip I shoot bare bow, but still split finger.

I have never crawled but have thought about it. Specially now that my practice time is limited.

Couple yrs ago I ripped tendon in bow hand, and broke finger on draw hand...........about a month before season.
Normally shot w middle finger corner of mouth anchor, looked at target.............shot a lot so ingrained sight pictures, but never consciously looked at arrow.
Was fluid and decent.

Hand injuries I was screwed.
60# bow w 100gr added to insert to get GT55/75 to spine right.......kinda heavy.
I tried cheekbone anchor and was WTF?

Aim a bit low and it hit good at 20. Aim high and drop it in at 25.
Dropped my anchor and used low sight picture.........dead on at 30.

3 under. Face walking.
Stupid easy and accurate/repeatable.

HOWEVER.............it was not fluid, and my higher arm position felt super weird, esp after shooting the other way for decades plus.
Zipped my deer ar 25 yards. Worked perfect.
I still don't like it.

Hopefully shoot enough this summer to use my old method.
I could go 3 under or split. Either is fine.

Whatever makes the arrow go where it is supposed to

If I had an ILF again I'd try the crawl..........might be fun to mess with.
I really didn't experiment with my Tradtech P2........set it even tiller and it shot good, so just left it alone.
Well, I did change the grip and hog out the sight window.
Mucho bettero.
Alas............it eventually got the dreaded Samick split (riser delam).
Didn't care. Got my money's worth out of shooting it.

There was some guy machining Dorado riser to ILF.
Like the Dorado riser in looks, more than Satori.
But it's 19" so why even bother.
Thought about a Morrison.
Health issues suggest that a possible waste of $
I'll just shoot my Widow.
Finally got a FF rated one (3rd HS model I've had).
Really like the grip, like the reg BW wood riser standard grip they have now.......but the HS I like even more.
Good enough for me.

Might get a Groves Spitfire Magnum again, if I can find a shorty without broadhead cutout in riser.
They tend to crack there.
Blocky riser.................just means it came with extra wood. Find one needs refinished, lost collector value........drink beer and break out the Dremel

I love my Toelke Takedown Whip. I had a one piece whip and loved it, but really like the ability to break it down and lash it to my pack on the hike in and out of hunting area.

I second the recommendation of trying a second set of Samick limbs if you go that route. It keeps your investment low in case you come to realize traditional archery just isn't for you. However, keep in mind that with the Samick, the only length available is 62-inches (regardless of limb poundage), which with your short draw length is rather long.

I'm a big fan of Toelke, Robertson, Big Jim, and other custom bow makers, but since you said you wanted non-custom options, I'm a big fan of Bear (currently own 3 traditional and a compound from Bear). A number of box stores still carry Bear bows even if they mainly focus on selling compound bows, so you should be able to go to a store and get a feel for a few models. For your draw length, you might consider a Kodiak Magnum or even a Supermag, both are short bows that are excellent for hunting.

If you're open to a 60-inch bow, the Kodiak (recreation of the 1959 Kodiak) is a very nice off-the-shelf one-piece recurve (I own one and really like it; I own a few custom bows, but this has become my go to).

Another option would be the Bear Takedown model. With an A-riser (the B-riser is longer), you get 56-inch and 60-inch bow length options depending on the limbs you buy to go with it; the design and grip is basically a refined version of the Samick you'll be practicing with. A benefit of Bear, Matthews, Hoyt, and other well-known brands is that you can find used bows at a good price if you're patient (check archerytalk.com forums).

I think your plan to get a Samick to practice with is sound. A lot of people don't go that route, they try to dive in to the deep end, not understanding that traditional archery is very different from compound. Frankly, for the time being, I would recommend you just get the Samick and practice. Then practice some more. Focus just on that, get the fundamentals down. Worry about a second bow and higher poundage later. None of that matters if you can't shoot. Good luck on your journey.

Yeah, based on the advice given here I've decided to get into it on the cheap and get some practice time built up. Fortunately, a small town nearby has a fantastic indoor range and there are a group of guys who shoot a traditional league. I might jump into that or just join the club and see how it goes. I'm guessing I might have the opportunity to try some different bows if I get involved there.

Again, thank you for the advice.

dakota

Sounds like you are gonna have fun...........which is what it's all about

Spend your first $20 on a book called "Shooting the Stickbow". Read it, do what the author suggests and you will be shooting a trad bow better than you ever imagined. As for the bow, something with an ILF Riser makes a lot of sense. Being able to buy and plug in different weight limbs is a very efficient and inexpensive (depending on the limbs) way to go. Lancaster archery has pages of ILF risers and limbs. Make sure you don't start out too heavy ~30# is a great place to be. Work up slowly and only when you can handle the weight. One final thing, the more you shoot your recurves like you shoot your compounds the more accurate you will be. Stand up straight, hold, aim, release, follow through. Trad is a lot of fun, it will test your patience but shooting consistently with accuracy is rewarding.

Bear Grizzly. Lots of used ones out there. Not expensive. Basic design works for almost anyone. Great starter bow. Get 45 model. The more years I spend as a traditional bowhunter (about 40 now) the more I appreciate the simplicity of the Grizzly.

I don't think a take down recurve to be complicated.

Do think bows cut past center, that don't have limb resonance issues (noise) to be better.

Have had three Grizzly recurves (old style) and a factory camo Kodiak (mint).
They were all noisy without dampeners and the Kodiak broke my heart............as it was the biggest piece of chit I ever shot.
Shock and noise. No wonder it was like new (I was 2nd owner).

Second the advice to get the book " Shooting the Stickbow" by Anthony Camera. Best $20 you'll ever spend.

Outstanding source of knowledge.

Tony Camera is a regular poster on leatherwall stickbow grad archery website. Goes by the handle "Viper". Look him up.

http://leatherwall.bowsite.com/TF/lw/THREADSx2.CFM

Can't stand the guy.
No thanks.

I'm in the exact same boat.

Shot glass as a kid. Got into compounds in my 20's. Still hunt and shoot compound a bit but want to try some more traditional stuff.

Just picked up an old Shakespear Yukon 24 recurve. Made in the early 70's but it's in great shape. Just ordered a string and will pick up some carbon arrows with feathers and shoot off the shelf. It's a really light bow. 25#'s
figure my 5 and 2 year old can learn on it too.


If I like it and stick with it, I'll pick up a Martin Savannah 45-50'ish #'s

I always look to Ebay for old recurves got a mint Ben Pearson Couger but after getting a shorter bow I really like my Shakespeare Super Necedah.

if money isn`t a factor you may want to check out Black Widow recurves,my son likes the takedowns best.good luck with your choice,Pete53