I have sav 24F in 223 and 12 gauge and the rifle is very accurate and the barrel has threaded tubes and patterns very well.
Just not to the same point of impact. The shotgun shoots about 6 inches lower than the rifle, but its on center.
I'm toying with a optic to help this and want to know if anyone has tried:
1. Ballistic dots reticle? 2. heavy duplex scope and sight off the transition from fine to heavy? 3. Two same make reddots in a co-witness format and use whichever applies.
Bailey can make you offset choke tubes that will raise the shotgun pattern.
Addition: If the barrels are separated and attached by a hanger on the muzzle end, someone who knows what they are doing can make another hanger to change the shotgun pattern POI. Although it may mess up the rifle barrel vibrations and effect accuracy.
On my 24F I use a scope (for the rifle) and see thru rings for the open sights (shotgun)
Bingo !!!!!! As much as I hate see thru rings I find them necessary on my Savage 24's, both rimfire and centerfire.
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On my 24F I use a scope (for the rifle) and see thru rings for the open sights (shotgun)
I prefer to use QD rings on Savage 24s, so the scope can be quickly removed if the shotgun barrel is going to be used. The Durasight QR rings are inexpensive and have an integral recoil lug, unlike the Warne QR Maxima rings, so they are a quick and easy on and off. They come in 2 heights, medium and high, and 2 colors, black and silver.
DS403B = high - black DS400B = medium - black DS403S = high - silver DS400S = medium - silver
I always run a PT&G alignment reamer through these rings before I use them, as I have run across a couple that still had a bit of mold spruce on them that would probably scratched a scope tube if they weren't removed.
EDIT: You can usually buy these rings on eBay for under $25.
Last edited by 260Remguy; 01/06/19. Reason: Added comment
Good idea on the see through mounts. I may have a issue though...
My 24f is used for beaver removal and thats usually a late evening activity. Shoot rifle at 50 to 75 yard range until too dark and then switch to shotgun.
So I would have to upgrade the iron sights fiber optic?
Do you put a comb riser on the stock?
Keep the suggestions coming in.
Battue: I think the barrels are soldered together.
Mine is usually for turkey hunts so I did get a set of fiber optic sights.My see thrus are Leopold--their model 55880--got them at wally world (less than $20)but now the local ones don't carry them anymore.Good thing I bought extras!!
I have a Redfield Revolution 2-7x33 scope on my 22 Hornet/20 gauge mounted in low rings. Yes it's a small opening to the hammer but it works ok. I'm a believer of the lower the scope the better. My rifle is on at 25 and 50 yards. The shotgun patterns center left right but 2/3 above the bullseye 1/3 below. Works for me. Bonus - Winchester slugs hit very close at 25 and 50 yards.
My "Pennsylvania Turkey Special" 222/20ga turned coyote getter has the scope zero set at 75 yards for the 222 barrel and the SG is perfect up to 40 yards by putting the horizontal crosshair on the coyotes back.
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I would have thought that 6" is neither here nor there when it comes to shotgun patterns. If the centre of the pattern is 6" below the POI of the rifle at, say, 40 yards you still have a fair bit of the pattern above that POI. I wouldn't have thought you'd have much excuse for not killing a beaver or whatever else.
That said, there are a couple of other things you might try. One is trying different loads, both rifle and shotgun, to see if you can narrow the gap. A somewhat stiffer load from the shotgun, for example, may pattern a bit higher, while a change of bullet with the rifle may alter elevation (and, due to harmonics, this can be difficult to predict).
The other thing you could try is one you already mentioned, and that is regulation. While the Savage doesn't have provision for it you could consider the way other combos like the Baikal achieve it, by way of applying a bit of pressure to the barrels to deflect (bend) them. The Baikals do this with a screw between the barrels at about the midpoint, which screw obviously you don't have, but you might try using some shim stock or similar to achieve the same effect, either at the midpoint (bending the midpoint of the rifle barrel up a fraction) or in the muzzle bracket to apply some force downward on the rifle barrel. Once you've found the sweet spot you just need to fix the shim stock in place and Bob's your uncle.
Personally though, if the shotgun barrel was centring its pattern a mere 6" low at 40 - 50 yards I'd be inclined not to worry about it. I wouldn't have see-through mounts on a bet. I'd have a scope with a low magnification (I find 1.5-6 ideal for combinations), mounted low, and sight in for the rifle barrel. Using the shotgun I'd look right through the scope, focussed on the target and ignoring the reticle, putting any ideas about aiming out of my mind. I've shot lots of running and flying critters precisely that way - even shot a bit of trap that way.
I would have thought that 6" is neither here nor there when it comes to shotgun patterns. If the centre of the pattern is 6" below the POI of the rifle at, say, 40 yards you still have a fair bit of the pattern above that POI. I wouldn't have thought you'd have much excuse for not killing a beaver or whatever else.
That said, there are a couple of other things you might try. One is trying different loads, both rifle and shotgun, to see if you can narrow the gap. A somewhat stiffer load from the shotgun, for example, may pattern a bit higher, while a change of bullet with the rifle may alter elevation (and, due to harmonics, this can be difficult to predict).
The other thing you could try is one you already mentioned, and that is regulation. While the Savage doesn't have provision for it you could consider the way other combos like the Baikal achieve it, by way of applying a bit of pressure to the barrels to deflect (bend) them. The Baikals do this with a screw between the barrels at about the midpoint, which screw obviously you don't have, but you might try using some shim stock or similar to achieve the same effect, either at the midpoint (bending the midpoint of the rifle barrel up a fraction) or in the muzzle bracket to apply some force downward on the rifle barrel. Once you've found the sweet spot you just need to fix the shim stock in place and Bob's your uncle.
Personally though, if the shotgun barrel was centring its pattern a mere 6" low at 40 - 50 yards I'd be inclined not to worry about it. I wouldn't have see-through mounts on a bet. I'd have a scope with a low magnification (I find 1.5-6 ideal for combinations), mounted low, and sight in for the rifle barrel. Using the shotgun I'd look right through the scope, focussed on the target and ignoring the reticle, putting any ideas about aiming out of my mind. I've shot lots of running and flying critters precisely that way - even shot a bit of trap that way.
Good ideas.
My shotgun shoots about 6 inches low at 10 yards when I had a low mounted 1.5 - 4.5 scope on it.
I bought this gun from a turkey hunter and started thinking it would be a nice short turkey blind gun if I can get it sighted in so Im not guessing when I put my bead on a gobbler...
So I tried it with the iron sights only and determined its not my future turkey gun...
I shot it with a heavy 3 inch turkey load and the way it jumped and recoiled reminded me of that video of the Pakistani guy shooting a elephant gun and dropping it!
I have a Redfield Revolution 2-7x33 scope on my 22 Hornet/20 gauge mounted in low rings. Yes it's a small opening to the hammer but it works ok. I'm a believer of the lower the scope the better. My rifle is on at 25 and 50 yards. The shotgun patterns center left right but 2/3 above the bullseye 1/3 below. Works for me. Bonus - Winchester slugs hit very close at 25 and 50 yards.
FWIW, I have shot better groups with Brenneke slugs in 20 and 16 smoothbores than with FED/REM/WIN Foster style rifled slugs. They are what I keep in the elastic carrier on the stock of my 24F in 223/20.
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