Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Bowhunting Rookie Question

carry on
just made some popcorn and opened a soda .

Never used a release in my life. Fingers (glove or tab)

I side with 280, a well tuned bow AND ARROW the field point and BH will hit the same (assuming no wind drift etc). IF they don't there are three probably causes, all TUNE RELATED:
1) contact somewhere, most likely fletching kicking the arrow in some direction as it leaves the bow
2) Arrow tune, straightness and BH alignment come in here. spin the arrow in a spinner with the BH on it, does the tip wobble at all
3) Tune the bow to the nock is being pushed straight forward perfectly through the rest (right/left or up/down rest and /or nock point adjustments. Can also be done via cable/cam timing an yoke tuning if you have a suitable yoke)

There are more ways to get this done than you can imagine. There's no reason, given time and experience tuning, that they won't hit the same. BTW, your own form can also be an influence via hand torque etc.

What is your set up? Bow make / Pounds your drawing / draw length / arrow length and spine / brand of broadhead . And yes 100 grain heads and points.

Hookeye youre partially correct. Yes compound. Yes i do use a release. Yes i run a drop away rest(can do the same with a biscuit so whats your point). But i will NEVER EVER EVER cut my arrows to be sitting behind the front edge of my arrow shelf at full draw. Always extend at least 1/4" forward of the shelf

Not all bows are cut past center (typically longbows and older recurves). Some older compounds were minimal, to where they'd get fletch drag on riser.
Bet those rigs saw FP and BH impact differences.....even when they were tuned right.

FWIW I don't have BH tuning issues.
Like my FOC around 15% or so.
Helical feather fletch, tab or release, wheels or trad.
It's boringly repeatably good.

Diamond Edge SB-1
60 lbs draw (I think)
27 1/2" draw length
28" arrows 340 spine
Cheapo broad heads bought through Amazon. Aiskaer 125 grain

340 seems too stiff.
I'd have tried 400's and weighted the insert if need be.
What's paper tune show?

400 for sure

As others have said your a little stiff on your spine, my sons specs are same as yours and a 400 spine arrow tunned extremely well for him. As for the broadheads how do they spin when installed on your shafts? Do they wobble when spun ? A wobbly broad head will steer a arrow all over the place . I highly recommend purchasing a quality brand name broadhead, a good broadhead that spins true will go a long ways in helping the tuning process.

Even if broadheads are true, the insert of the arrow could have a face not perpendicular to axis.
G5 makes the ASD (arrow squaring device).
Have seen inserts brand new that needed cleaned up, and others that took a hard hit, that needed redone.
Still not a common ailment, but does pop up now and then.
If you have a funky arrow w BH, might want to check that insert face.

When you see differing accuracy with broadheads the spine of the arrow is not a bad place to look. When the arrow comes off the bow it will flex some. With a broadhead, and especially a fixed head, that is not an uncommon place to initiate planing and if you have someone standing behind you watching they can see that. Removing the fletching and shooting bare shaft with field points of the same weight can be informative. If you cannot group them very tightly try turning the nock a third of a turn to each fletch when you refletch and see if the spine of the arrow is affecting your shots. If your arrows are well balanced you should be able to shoot pretty tight groups bare shaft. You can sometimes solve the problem of an arrow that won't quite group like this by finding where it needs the nock aligned.

Arrow spine is only a concern when its too weak. However the closer you are to your bows optimum spine, the more forgiving your setup is. Running stiff arrows requires the bow to be better tuned. And your form/grip/release to be spot on. Even cut longer and with the 125 head you are on the stiff side for that bow at 27.5/60. In my opinion youd be much better served with a 400 spine arrow cut at 27.25" measuring from nock groove to end of insert. This will still allow the arrow to be positioned in front of the shelf at full draw.

Thank you all for your insights and tips. I really appreciate the advice and will be back at the range as soon as it quits raining.

I haven't done the paper test but that's high on my list as well as checking my arrows for wobble. Next time I buy arrows I'll go with the 400 spine. I had no idea of the importance of stiffness. As I said, I'm a rookie archer and don't really have a mentor so thanks again!

This is where the box store usually fails, the clerk/staff knows enough to sell you arrows, but not enough to sell you the right ones for your set-up.

If you discussed your set-up with the store staff - draw length, draw weight, arrow length, and tip weight - they failed if they recommended those arrows to you.

Don't feel bad, we've all been there a one time or another.

But - that is why many of us will recommend going to an archery pro shop - where they do nothing but archery.

I get that the local shop may not be a good fit for you based on attitude, we have one locally that has a similar problem, I've driven miles to to get the service that I felt I had paid for.

I have seen archery pro shops blow it big time, usually when somebody wants arrows for a recurve.
While a supposed "pro shop" should be a better way to go, I think it best for a person to learn to do it all themselves.

Many bowhunters I know have jigs, saws and bow presses.
Unfortunately the new parallel limb stuff uses a different type of press.
Took a little while but I rather like the Last Chance press my local shop has LOL.

Buddy works there, and the tech shot with my dad years ago.

So I can use their stuff whenever I ask

Does that assume drop away rest, string loop and release?
Not everybody shoots that.
Think one can get too heavy a spine LOL

Compound bow hookeye. No such thing as too stiff. Come down to Louisiana and hang out a few days. Ill be glad to show ya.