Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Custom Rifles & Wildcats BRNO 98 mauser need some advice

Ok I'm getting ya kinda
So are you saying it headspace off the bullet ogive or shoulder

If off the shoulder shouldn't a dumped round with just a primer go snap?

If off the ogive I should look for faint leade or rifling marks if I color the bullet itself with a sharpie.


This is all in absence of gauges of course.

The primer should not go off at all. If the firing pin ignites the primer when closing the bolt,you have a serious problem.

It should headspace off the shoulder and it should chamber with little resistance.

Clear as mud,right?

Renegade,
Your Mauser looks nice. I would suggest a Timney trigger, you can get them for around $50.
Also on the headspace you can take a sized case and put scotch tape over the casehead and chamber it, keep adding layers until the bolt is hard to close. I cant remember the thickness of each layer of tape but if it takes more than three you could have excessive head space.

Nice. I'd rebarrel and surface grind the action except for the left side of the receiver. I like that script. New safety maybe trim custom bases. 7x57???????? 6.5x55???????? Oh, baby.

A Mauser has enough camming power to squish scotch tape. Use sheet metal shims held on by a dab of grease.

I personally could not see paying any more than you would for an interarms Mark X.

No no no
I have worked the action, safety and dry fired it.
Slamming the bolt
Perfectly safe
Function check is gtg.

What I'm saying since it head spaces off the shoulder is
Chamber a dumped round with just a primer in it, on safe
Take it off safe squeeze trigger and snap the primer
That should confirm headspace is Gtg.
And the ogive from Sami spec factory ammo is gonna sit its given distance from the leade .
So if barrel is screwed in too tight into chamber
And factory ammo chambers overly tight , it would indicate a problem



I'm fugging confusing as fugg right now I geuss

I'm gonna go put 2 benjamins on this gun in a little bit after I feed the dogs.
Make a dummy primer round and touch it off in the parking lot
And chamber a live one on safe a couple times

I think I'm way over thinking this
Trying to convince myself what we are both saying is correct.
And it is...
Gawd....

Ok I just looked at a bunch of prices on them
450 otd seems really Gtg

So it figures to around 400 410 for the rifle
10 dollar background check fee
And tax

For the 450 otd price

Are you saying 450 otd is to much???

I wouldn't pay $450 for it.. $400 max, unknown barrel, we all can assume, but it could be a shilen, Douglas, Apex etc.. it could be a tack driver, or not..

no. Just no. You can not confirm headspace by whether it ignites a primer or not. Even very loose dangerous headspace will still fire, because the firing pin sticks out of the bolt face.

If you want to check headspace, do it right with go/no go gauges. Or don't bother and just shoot it. Not much point in fooling around with bubba solutions that give you a flawed answer.

I'm hearing what your saying also.

+++
No reason at all to bubba this.

I think it's well worth the price. From the pics, it's done pretty well. Not sure why the headspace question even came up, unless
I missed something. Buy it, shoot it, or buy it and have it checked or buy your own gauges. I've got a couple of FNs, an FI and a Husky, that could use triggers. I'm leaning towards Dayton-Traistors for the simplicity and price. My FI came with a lefty stick too. I put a B&C on it, but the lefty has nice wood, so may whittle it down at some point for grins, or to replace the one on the Husky, which surprise surprise, has a crack at the tang, and needs to be refinished and the checkering touched up.

Ok,take it easy,use the go/no go gauges.

Problem is the rifle has only been out for about 2cweeks

When I bought my sako 98 from em
It had been out for 2.5 yrs.
They had 400 on that
I was otd for 250 on it.

No one wants ta buy old bolt rifles around FTCKY
Joe wants buzz light year schitt.

They dont see what they are and how they can be given a 2nd life.

Fugg half of my rifles are pawnshop gems inthe rough I refinished and refurbished.

Might be an option to let it sit for awhile also.

If someone snags it . Oh well
I already got a nice sako 98.

Just get go/no go gauges...it'll run you all of $70. If it is too deep you could always punch it out to 30/06.

Problem is the rifle has only been out for about 2 weeks.

When I bought my sako 98 from em
It had been out for 2.5 yrs.
They had 400 on that
I was otd for 250 on it.

No one wants ta buy old bolt rifles around FTCKY
Joe wants buzz light year schitt.

They dont see what they are and how they can be given a 2nd life.

Fugg half of my rifles are pawnshop gems inthe rough I refinished and refurbished.

Might be an option to let it sit for awhile also.

If someone snags it . Oh well
I already got a nice sako 98.

[/quote]

If you're willing to risk losing it, let it soak in the rack. I usually just buy something I want if the price is fair, or try to dicker. If you got a Sako FN High Power for $250, you don't need buying lessons from me, that's for sure!

If you're willing to risk losing it, let it soak in the rack. I usually just buy something I want if the price is fair, or try to dicker. If you got a Sako FN High Power for $250, you don't need buying lessons from me, that's for sure!
[/quote]
The one I got is the ones sako 1st started making immediately after ww2 in the mid late 40,s and very early 50,s
Before they used fn hi power actions.
Alot of em were sold at px,s on american bases thru the 50,s and early 60,s
Someone brought it back here and stuck it in a fajen french walnut stock.
Did some other stuff to it also added a buehler safety and after market bottom metal


Sako turned down the actions outer profile and sporter profiled the barrels on Kar 98,s to get back in manufacturing game.


I got one nazi eagle on the right side of the barrel sleeve.
With half its body above the stock line.
Faint but its their.
Then the bottom of the receiver has sako and sako worker proof marks randomly all over it.

I did alot of recontouring sharp angles and lines on the stock.
Kinda wanted my mod 70 and the 98 to look similar.
Did alot of trigger polishing and minor mod work
Biggest thing was a cut and recrown job I did to restore accuracy.
Thing was a shotgun before I did that.
Read the copper fouling after a slight cleaning.
Fouling went all the way to the end at the 3 and 6 oclock lands
Stop at about 5/8ths inch down at the 9 and 12 lands.

Turned it into a .75 to 1 moa rifle after that

Not bad for a 1939 rebuilt kar 98.

Wheeler ceramacoated and cooked at 1st in this pic all metal.
Then I discovered that Montana extreme copper killer dissolved a large pea
sized portion of it away under the muzzle.
So about a month ago I had it graphite black cerracoated

It looks way better now actually.
This is the wheeler ceramacoat on it and an old picture.


Gawd knows why Ithink I need another mauser......

Found one on Ebay for a Springfield, $12 to my door.

DF

+2 ... Use the proper gauges...

While you were takin' pics and posting questions I'd have already paid for it and walked out the door with said Brno in hand.