Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Rifles Stock stiffness

We all know the factory stocks in general are not ideal...but what if we used epoxy and fiberglass tape or similar material on the outside in a couple layers...like paper mache almost. It would also hold paint better than slick plastic. Any of you talented guys out there try this? Just occurred to me that we always end up with a surprise entry from a very gifted individual in a lot of fields so I thought I would throw this out for ideas

Oldest "trick" in the book and works as well as windshield wipers on a Billy Goat's ass.

Cut to the chase and live a little,with Good Riggin'.

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Lol gotcha

Laminate is the most,for the least,sculpts easily for ergo's and one needn't fret "sealing" it,before or after the fact.

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I think we tend to overthink such things. As long as there is enough gap between the barrel and stock to prevent them from touching under normal use I've been able to get several of the cheapest stocks to shoot well under 1 MOA, often approaching 1/2 MOA. On a hunting rifle, fired from field positions that is about as much accuracy as we can use. On a dedicated target rifle not many are going to be using one of the cheap tupperware stocks anyway. Over the years I've seen lots of guys go to a lot of trouble trying all sorts of gimmicks to make the cheap stocks stiffer. Other than a generous free float I've never seen any of them make any difference.

That said I prefer a quality synthetic such as McMillan or Brown Precision. None of the factory tupperware stocks are significantly lighter than wood, and often heavier. And I just like the looks of them. But none of my rifles in high end stocks are as accurate as my Tikka with a Tupperware stock. And the Ruger Predators are pretty close as they came out of the box.

Laughing!...................

The foam core that stock makers use to lay up their stocks,would be a lot less stiff than a plastics stock. Same concept as you had suggested. It might be difficult to get a good bond to the plastic.

Wood is easy to bond to, but doesn’t need the help.

Please take pics.

Pass the RHR Terrain/M5 AICS DBM melding and hold the Fluff.

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Fibreglass is quite low in stiffness/weight - significantly less than walnut or hardwood laminates, less than half that of kevlar, and a fraction of good carbon-fibre reinforced composite. Epoxy by itself is even less stiff.

If you wanted to have a stiff stock you'd be better off starting out with one made from a stiff material, and with enough of it in the right places.

HILARIOUS!..............

Stick.. what rifle do you have in your pic? Receiver? Barrel? Something you put together?
Thanks

Picked up a used Savage 111 a couple weeks ago. Birch stock. Light weight (relatively speaking) and stiff as a board. Pun intended, but accurate. HAven't decided but may well give it a paint job.

IT's birch. If I screw up the paint job, I've lost nothing.

I don't use a bi-pod, so as long as the forearm doesn't touch the barrel, I'm fine. Although, if one is just tinkering around, then money spent "fixing" a cheaper stock is OK. However, I'd rather have a sealed, free floated, pillar bedded wood stock than a "jerry rigged" synthetic. Been there, done that. I too like a wood laminate that has been slimmed/trimmed and lightly checkered. I had a smith that would do that for me with many a Boyd's.

NSS 8" 6BR.

The usual.

Shoots in the .3's...with Lever fueled 105 Hornie HPBT Smooches in Lapooey no-turn necks.

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Simply know whatcha' got mechanically and heed it's limitations and you can then limp along. Hint.

From a coupla days ago.

1000 Words On Flimsy Stocks RINK

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