Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Gunsmithing Rust blue question

I have a Sako L579 with a Douglas barrel (chrome moly 4140, I think) that is ready to be blued (in the white). I want to rust blue it for the classic blued look and durability. Is rust bluing not as advisable for modern alloy steels as some other bluing? I've got the Laurel Mountain Forge browning/blueing solution, a rusting box and steam tube made, but if some other bluing method will better give me the look and durability that rust blue is known for, I'll go with that.

I also wanted to put Gun Kote (the nano ceramic stuff) on it after bluing. Is there something to stop the bluing process that doesn't require oil (because you have to degrease to put the Gun Kote on).. I'd rather put oil over the Gun Kote, if possible; it really helps prevent unwanted rusting of blued steels in my experience.

You'll be fine.

You can rust blue it, but the final color will not be quite the deep dark blue that is seen on low carbon steel as used on black powder era guns. I consider the color acceptable, but you might not. You must judge for yourself. Alternative bluing methods such a hot salt blue over a fine bead blasted surface or charcoal blue will be look better IMHO. You can stop rust blue anytime after a carding session. There is no need to oil it to terminate the process.

Gun Kote appears to be a pigmented epoxy paint. Why would you put this over rust blue??? The instructions specify 120 grit abrasive blast which would completely remove the blue. Explain, I'm mystified.

RAN

Oops, my mistake. I meant Dyna Tek Gun Shield, not Gun Kote. Is the hot salt blue over bead blasting more durable than just hot bluing alone?

Sounds like I may have been at a little disadvantage trying rust blue on this gun.

Steven60, you will be just fine rust bluing your bolt gun. I done many and haven't had any problem. You've got the right rust bluing solution, Laurel Mountain. It will probably take 7 or 8 rusting, carding, boiling sessions to get it where you want it.
Phil

I've seen sandpaper grits from # 280 to #400 recommended for the metal finish, with some claiming they can't get a good "bite" for the acid mixture with #400. I've got mine sanded with #320. Any reason to use a different grit?

I always go to 400x. Did 600x a couple times, couldn't really see the worth in it plus it took more applications.

All of the Belgian hot water bluing I did in the Browning Arms gunsmithing shop were not polished any finer than 320 grit. Finer than that is not necessary and will prove counterproductive, the bluing solution not getting a good bite is a fact.

Not really. The bead blasting is simply a method of producing a satin surface that simulates that produced by rust bluing. For straight rust bluing, 320 grit SC wet of dry paper will be as fine as you need to polish before starting the process.


RAN