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Joined: Aug 2005
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Question : How hard is it to remove the rail on the CTR's? Have read (dangerous, I know) that it can be a chore.
Question: What's the rec for a 20 MOA replacement?

Thanks Amigos!


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GB1

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They’re epoxied on, I ruined the one I removed a few years back, should’ve been more patient and used heat. I bought a takeoff rail a few months back that looks just fine so I know they can be removed without issue

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Area 419 makes a replacement. I don't have a CTR, but have seen that rail mentioned on here a few times.

https://www.area419.com/product/tikka-standard-action-scope-rail/


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Helped a buddy with this. Lock the action in a vise. Remove the screws, give it a few whacks with a rubber mallet. Propane torch, beater scope rings, and appropriate size pipe to fit in scope rings. Mount the rings as far apart as possible with the pipe inside. Heat it up and wiggle the pipe to pry it off. If you have a couple sets of the same style it would prob add some strength. I wanna say his were millet. I think we used a lapping bar with a cheater on each end.

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Dayum.........there really on there aren't they? May just go with Burris Signatures with 10 MOA inserts in front and back instead. Doesn't sound like shooting the thing will ever loosen the rail.


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IC B2

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I just took one off, It came off with just a little wiggling, must not have had a good epoxy bond on mine. The only drama was stripping out one of the heads on a screw. But yes, mine wasn't going anywhere on it's own, it was solid.

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the screws are epoxied in. wil need heat to get them out. I like the mountain tactical 20 moa base.......I have them on 4 different tikkas I own, no issue whatsoever. I buy the blemished ones, I have yet to find a blemish on one of them.....ymmv

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Originally Posted by JGRaider
Dayum.........there really on there aren't they? May just go with Burris Signatures with 10 MOA inserts in front and back instead. Doesn't sound like shooting the thing will ever loosen the rail.


I probably made it sound more difficult than I intended to. I've heard of people heating them up and prying them off with a pocket knife. We did it the way I described to avoid marring the rifle. I don't remember the screws on his having been epoxied.

It's really not all the hard. I'd personally replace the factory rail with the Area 419 offering or something similar.

Last edited by Bearded; 05/22/19.

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