A buddy sold me his SAIII that is 58” 5328 in Autumn Oak. These bows if I remember right like stiff arrows? What arrows are you guys using? I will be prolly drawing 29 and drawing 56.
my son just uses aluminum 22-19 ,3 fletched helical out of his Black Widow bows tried alot of different arrow types and just my old 2219`s shoot for him the best.
IMHO Widows don't really require a heavier spine due to being Widows. They're just cut past center, so run a heavier spine.
Old Ken did say way back that they shoot so hard they need a heavier spine LOL. Shades of Weatherby salesmanship.
I ran GT 55/75 out of my 55# SA2. Was 2001 so Fastflite rated. Shafts a little long, and still required a 50 gr weight added to insert (125 gr head). Papertune was great, Zero problems with shooting BHs. Fletch was 5" Helical feathers.
Have since gone to 4". No problems. My 60# non FF used same shafts, but w 100gr brass insert. Might have been cut a little shorter too. It was a metal riser HS and cut past center, but I dunno which was cut more, my two SA2's (2001, 2004) or my HS ('75, '83 or '91).
Have brass inserts (100gr) and 50 gr weights to adj to get GT55/75 where I like. Weight system is dandy, but adding too many weights behind the insert gobbles up shaft length, what could flex.........so you do that and hit the wall. Just has no more effect.
Think if you need more than 1 weight, swap to brass insert. Can use aluminum insert w a max of two brass 50gr weights. Three hits the wall. Also. go w 50 gr increments. Less is just a waste of time.
Unless you're Olympic level and can tell 10gr diff. To consistently see a change, 50 gr is the increment IMHO. Shaft length changes by .5".
Unless you're Olympic level and can tell 10gr diff. To consistently see a change, 50 gr is the increment IMHO. Shaft length changes by .5".
I agree completely! One can "chase their tail" for YEARS and not make much difference in results, as minor variations in an inconstant release causes more error than minor arrow tweaks.
Unless you're Olympic level and can tell 10gr diff. To consistently see a change, 50 gr is the increment IMHO. Shaft length changes by .5".
I agree completely! One can "chase their tail" for YEARS and not make much difference in results, as minor variations in an inconstant release causes more error than minor arrow tweaks.
I would say,up to a point,you are right.
I can shoot badly spined arrows pretty close to POA at 20 yards. I will be a lot farther off than with correctly spined arrows at 50 yards.
Arrows need to be correctly spined so an archer doesn't falsely change their form and aiming system to compensate for the drift at longer yardage. When correctly spines I will be lined up in a straight vertical line under or over my bull's eye no matter what yardage. If incorrectly spined I will be lined up right or left some unknown amount depending on distance and trajectory.
I've seen folks group target arrows decent with funky tune/form. Come time for broadheads and they freak out.
Some folks have been at this for a while and still don't know what a good tune/flight is.
Until they see it (actually don't see it) Went round and round w MBA guy at work.
Range trip had his jaw on the ground.
He did some stuff and saw improvement, got to grouping finally, and thought he had arrived. Nope. He merely saw a positive trend. And stopped short of the goal.
I tuned his rig and let him shoot mine. Was an "AHA!" moment for him (and last MBA I'll ever help LOL)
Had a bowyer and his buds at indoor range. Loud bows. Not fast either. I shot my perfectly tuned Widow and they were amazed at the speed/quiet in comparison. Guy asked to shoot it, and I let him.
First thing was "hey I can't see the arrow fly".
His lightbulb came on.
FWIW I think Widows easy to tune. Maybe not the fastest, not the most quiet............but certainly good enough for me. Like the mass weight. And the way they feel on the draw.
I used to shoot decent. Suck at everything now. Buy new bag target tomorrow and start work on shooting again. I can't get much distance in my yard. When I lived in town I could do 40 yards (sidewalk to shed). Pretty funny. Proly have the cops called out nowadays. They used to drive by and wave back then.
58" is my fave. Canted I could use it to some effect in an Ameristep blind. Buddy has a DoubleBull...........way more roomy. After a long week of rain and wind in my blind I said screw it and threw it away (was old but usable). If I need a blind to handle the weather I'll stay home. While they may work, I just don't like being "inside" when outside.
I sure like them. Especially as much as I move around. I won’t miss a day just cause it’s raining or cold. I like staying dry and warm. I like that I can stand up and stretch or move my legs and feet around without being seen.
Buddy of mine has one. It is the recurve with the longbow type riser. I shot it some and liked it. I didn't think it was faster than it's weight though. Shot several bows that day, The one he had that I liked was an old Bear TD 60# . 3 rivers and blackwidow used to sell a tuning set of shafts. several spine weights so you could try each one to see which was appropriate. With the correct brace height and nock height, your bow will shoot the correct shaft with a field tip straight at 20 yards with no fletchings or vanes. That is the way I pick my shafts. After that it's easy to fletch one up and stabilize the same weight broadhead.