It depends on what finish and how it was applied. I used Tru Oil with the instructions and if rubbed out the last coat can be cut through to the next layer and is UGLY, can't be fixed. Rottenstone and linseed oil with felt pads. I finally figured it out by using a touch up spray gun. Thin Tru oil to spray and coat the stock after the grain is filled. Let get tacky and spray again and again until you have many coats. let the finish never dry all the way so each coat will meld into the last. Now you have one thick coat. Let the stock dry for weeks until the finish loses smell. A stock with an epoxy finish can be rubbed too. I have never had a problem with steel wool to fill grain or reduce shine. 3M pads are full of abrasives that leave dust. The finest will cut stainless to a shine. It will remove gun blue right fast.
I didn't read through the pissing contest so you may already have answered this but but could you post a photo of the stock? Do you know what type of finish is on it now?
Really? You cannot be bothered to read the first few responses, but you can still pretend to have a clue?
Actually I did read through all of your pathetically stupid replies along with the insults you hurl at anyone smarter than yourself but I decided to be a gentlemen and not belittle you for being a fuggin ass hole and just start at the beginning.
Like Sam Houston, I will vote for what is best for ME in 2020. Texans read their Bibles to find what they want it to say, and are blind to what it actually says...
I didn't read through the pissing contest so you may already have answered this but but could you post a photo of the stock? Do you know what type of finish is on it now?
Really? You cannot be bothered to read the first few responses, but you can still pretend to have a clue?
Actually I did read through all of your pathetically stupid replies along with the insults you hurl at anyone smarter than yourself but I decided to be a gentlemen and not belittle you for being a fuggin ass hole and just start at the beginning.
Thanks for the laugh.
Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.
Sitka, Gotta say you're taking that troll blather rather well.
Anyone with a clue, as I am sure you understand, knows there is no difference in knocking the sheen off any finish. Some just take longer... Knowing that, his request to see a picture shows he was attempting to grandstand. I truly found it funny... he is too pathetic to deserve ignore, and he does show incredible idiocy with humorous twists on a regular basis.This was one of those...
Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.
This forum is a never ending source of entertainment. Very few places on the internet are so devoted as this to enshrining old wive's tales, half truths, and bad ideas.
"You can lead a man to logic, but you cannot make him think." Joe Harz "Always certain, often right." Keith McCafferty
This forum is a never ending source of entertainment. Very few places on the internet are so devoted as this to enshrining old wive's tales, half truths, and bad ideas.
Ain't that the truth!
Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.
What counts is how hard a finish gets and some junk like spar varnish will gum. Can't be sanded for a few years and it never lasts that long on my door sill. It is why boats are put in dry dock and re-finished every year. Plain linseed oil never dries and it is used in paints so moisture can go in and out. Boiled linseed oil is not boiled, it has a hardener in it. Tru oil has the best hardeners and gets real hard. Long ago there was another linseed based finish called Linspeed but it never dried and would gum with steel wool. It went away soon. Real tung oil is much better. Oil paints used on a house lets in moisture and if the walls do not have ventilation behind, the paint peels and needs scraped every year. Joe used oil paints on his house and porches. The wood rotted away, shutters rotted and fell apart. We had to jack up the roof and replace post bottoms. He gets less then a year of good looking. If you want a laugh, he has an old house that the foundation leaks water on the little basement floor to a sump pump. He cut grooves to channel water to the hole. The floor is pea gravel or river stones. The pump quit so I helped him install a new one. The sump is a 5 gallon plastic bucket that was full of stones to bind the impeller of the pump. Life of the new pump is measured in weeks with the Mickey Mouse setup. Some of the finish posted for stocks is another Mickey Mouse solution. A stock finish should withstand working, rain, snow and every condition you have from heat to cold. Tru Oil meets it all.
Whereinhell do you come up with this stuff?? From top to bottom of that post it is riddled with falsehoods. I have better things to do with my life than spend an hour refuting it step by step. Word to the wise: ignore the drivel and seek help elsewhere.
"You can lead a man to logic, but you cannot make him think." Joe Harz "Always certain, often right." Keith McCafferty
Whereinhell do you come up with this stuff?? From top to bottom of that post it is riddled with falsehoods. I have better things to do with my life than spend an hour refuting it step by step. Word to the wise: ignore the drivel and seek help elsewhere.
+1- the more of that nonsense I read, the more I found myself shaking my head and muttering unintelligible cuss words....
Never underestimate your ability to overestimate your ability.
What counts is how hard a finish gets and some junk like spar varnish will gum. Can't be sanded for a few years and it never lasts that long on my door sill. It is why boats are put in dry dock and re-finished every year. Plain linseed oil never dries and it is used in paints so moisture can go in and out. Boiled linseed oil is not boiled, it has a hardener in it. Tru oil has the best hardeners and gets real hard. Long ago there was another linseed based finish called Linspeed but it never dried and would gum with steel wool. It went away soon. Real tung oil is much better. Oil paints used on a house lets in moisture and if the walls do not have ventilation behind, the paint peels and needs scraped every year. Joe used oil paints on his house and porches. The wood rotted away, shutters rotted and fell apart. We had to jack up the roof and replace post bottoms. He gets less then a year of good looking. If you want a laugh, he has an old house that the foundation leaks water on the little basement floor to a sump pump. He cut grooves to channel water to the hole. The floor is pea gravel or river stones. The pump quit so I helped him install a new one. The sump is a 5 gallon plastic bucket that was full of stones to bind the impeller of the pump. Life of the new pump is measured in weeks with the Mickey Mouse setup. Some of the finish posted for stocks is another Mickey Mouse solution. A stock finish should withstand working, rain, snow and every condition you have from heat to cold. Tru Oil meets it all.
Whereinhell do you come up with this stuff?? From top to bottom of that post it is riddled with falsehoods. I have better things to do with my life than spend an hour refuting it step by step. Word to the wise: ignore the drivel and seek help elsewhere.
By "seek help elsewhere" i assume you are talking to brfshooter...
Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.
You know, everybody has a right to their opinions, and certainly the same right extends to doing what one wants. No skin off my nose, but to encourage dumb protocols on an open forum is reckless, IMO.
"You can lead a man to logic, but you cannot make him think." Joe Harz "Always certain, often right." Keith McCafferty
Back to the OP on some finishes the Rotten stone alone was too glossy for my taste. On these finishes it is good to start with pumice especially if there is orange peel or surface irregularities. Followed by the rotten stone. If it becomes too glossy go back to the pumice. Wax over the pumice finish is a nice matte usually but may be duller than you want.
RE: Linspeed and most finishes that have oil in them. If they have sat on the stores shelf for years they are just not going to work. This is even more true if they have been opened and then stored.
Last edited by Tejano; 06/07/19.
"When you disarm the people, you commence to offend them and show that you distrust them either through cowardice or lack of confidence, and both of these opinions generate hatred." Niccolo Machiavelli
What counts is how hard a finish gets and some junk like spar varnish will gum. Can't be sanded for a few years and it never lasts that long on my door sill. It is why boats are put in dry dock and re-finished every year. Plain linseed oil never dries and it is used in paints so moisture can go in and out. Boiled linseed oil is not boiled, it has a hardener in it. Tru oil has the best hardeners and gets real hard. Long ago there was another linseed based finish called Linspeed but it never dried and would gum with steel wool. It went away soon. Real tung oil is much better. Oil paints used on a house lets in moisture and if the walls do not have ventilation behind, the paint peels and needs scraped every year. Joe used oil paints on his house and porches. The wood rotted away, shutters rotted and fell apart. We had to jack up the roof and replace post bottoms. He gets less then a year of good looking. If you want a laugh, he has an old house that the foundation leaks water on the little basement floor to a sump pump. He cut grooves to channel water to the hole. The floor is pea gravel or river stones. The pump quit so I helped him install a new one. The sump is a 5 gallon plastic bucket that was full of stones to bind the impeller of the pump. Life of the new pump is measured in weeks with the Mickey Mouse setup. Some of the finish posted for stocks is another Mickey Mouse solution. A stock finish should withstand working, rain, snow and every condition you have from heat to cold. Tru Oil meets it all.
Funny thing is he wrote this 10-13-18.
Originally Posted by bfrshooter
I am leaving this site. Been on ignore and bashed too long. I will read stuff but will no longer post.
But he cannot stay away or have sense enough to do a little research before he takes off. Reminds me of the advice delivered here...
Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.
