Home Forums Gear Knives and Blades Carrying a sheath knife

I never wear a knife on my belt, always in my pack or my tool pocket on my leg...

I prefer a smaller fixed blade, particularly when hunting is involved, closer to a 3" blade. They seem to hang from the belt, and/or also inside a rear pocket, without binding or getting in the way.
I had the good fortune of knowing an old knife maker that made several of these smaller, but "pretty" knives out of a great tool steel that I have used for a number of Christmas presents. I have noticed that they actually get used.
I also carry some sort of small saw, usually some sort of folder, that goes into a pack or a pocket. I continue to be amazed how often I use these, and how easy they can make some jobs, ex. splitting a pelvis bone.
Kershaw used to make an interesting Trade a Blade package, included a hunting blade, filet blade, and a saw. Over the years, production shifted to Japan, then China. Quality & details went down with each change. Spent 50 nights camping around Alaska some years ago. One of the old ones did all the work I needed.

When hunting big game I carry my sheath knife in my pack. I've made and purchased sheath knives without belt loops. I carry a pocket knife in addition to the sheath knife. The pocket knife is used to cut fur and the sheath knife does the boning work. I won't tolerate banging my rifle stock against a knife and I have never been able to avoid it while wearing a blade on my belt.

I have experienced two folding knife failures in the field, both Japanese Kershaw knives. I was able to complete the task with a broken lock mechanism. I see no reason to carry more than 2 knives but always have extra knives back at the truck or in camp. My brother field dressed a buck with a broken piece of glass, I should be able to get by with 2 quality knives.

Maybe you guys can help me. I'm a complete green horn in the knife knowledge world...for the last few years I've carried a 3 3/4" blade sheath knife, 4" wood oval handle (easily takes ugly knife with oak leaf cluster award). A pawn shop find, marked Sandvik, laminated steel, Sweden. Prolly worth 5 bucks on a good day, but, best knife I've ever owned for keeping an edge, so it's valuable to me. We all know what dirty elk hair and such does to an edge, this thing just keeps going. OK great...how the hell do you sharpen that center lamination. It just glides over an old good quality oilstone. I have a "Work-Sharp" belt sander but it wants to grind off the high carbon outer laminates too aggressively. It leaves funny shiny streaks on my ceramic kitchen knife hone. Do I need to buy a diamond stone? Stroke into the knife edge or away from the edge.? I am a dull fellow.

"Stroke into the knife edge or away from the edge.? I am a dull fellow." Stone into the edge; strop away from the edge. Attempt to make the finest slice possible into the stone, when finishing uses a very light pressure.

Your "$5 knife" sound to be worth a whole lot more than 5 bucks. It has very good steel and sharpening very good steel is difficult for the novice. Start with a heavier grit, 120-ish, until you feather the edge which is easy to snag with a finger nail. Generate a feather along the entire edge with the heavy grit before moving onto 240-ish. My working knives never see anything finer than 240 grit.

Your Work Sharp should work. Reduce the cutting pressure and give it more time. Again, generate a feather/burr along the entire edge before going to a lighter grit.

Thanks for the help Boise. Sounds like I am trying to use too fine of grit for one thing. Put a new 120 belt on the Work Sharp and will try to get your feather edge and go from there. Totally off topic, I have a beautiful old (1920's?) Collins double bitted falling axe that is so hard, it rings when you hit a knot, a good Nicholson file just slides off it. So, same general technique you think?

Nah.......

Who'da thunk.

I keep a Griptilian clipped to my bino pack, where its right there and ready. I also wear either a Grohmann #1 or #2 on my belt. There's also a much trusted J A Henckels fixed blade hunter that has earned a permanent ride in my pack.

Unless I'm missing something it seems like the split here is between those who backpack hunt and those who don't?

Yes, in general. But you'll want a convex edge. Look for a set of sharpening pucks. Or if you're going to turn the old axe into a user then consider using a fine grit grinder of sorts, like Huntsman posted but a newer version maybe more available. I take a Dremel to my user splitting maul that has a "harder than file" edge. This will take away a lot of the collector's value but then if you use the hell out of it, it won't be much of a collector piece.

The Work Sharp does create a slightly convex edge.
Basically you are removing metal against a slack belt.
The hard side of the fixture is opposite the side being ground.
Might be a bit of a learning curve doing an axe head though.

I could probably make up a couple "Work Sharp" 120 grit Ceramic belts for harder than heck steel.
------A fringe benefit of my part time job.
I may have to try that twist on some M4 at 63/64 Rc although aluminum oxide seemed work ok on that .
Tim