Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Bowhunting Help with picking crossbow

I am getting to the age where a crossbow is in my near future. I would appreciate any info on what to look for, good brands and models, do I want a crank handle for pulling the string back, and anything else you have learned through trial and error.

Thanks for any help,

Dean

xcaliber

I bought my first one last year, an Excalibur. Spent more on the total package: bow & upgraded scope, errors, broadheads, crank, stringer, etc, than almost any rifle I ever bought. The attraction for me of Excalibur was the simplicity, reliability, and that I can do the little maintenance it requires myself; no trips to the dealer. Trade-offs to get that are size and a bit of noise, plus maybe some lack of cool-factor. Took me a few minutes to assemble, a few more to sight in, then two shots, two deer. I'm good to 50 yards, but both deer were taken at about 35.

Some of the compound models are very cool, compact, and a bit faster, but some aren't legal here because of restrictions on bow width and arrow length. My Matrix Bulldog 380, according to the scope setting, is shooting my hunting bolts at 330fps. It's a hammer.

Unless you're in pretty good shape, get a crank. I can cock my 260 pounder with the cord, and carry that for field reloads, but for practice a crank will keep you from straining something.

What’s your budget?

No need for a public answer, but that really drives what will work, what will last you, and what your wants are.

I’m Excalibur fan, but I’ve used Ten Point, Barnett, and Carbon Express. Excalibur’s have one string, and you can change it without a bow press / bow shop.

IMHO for entry compound - the Centerpoint Sniper is about the best entry level crossbow in the market. Wicked Ridge G-3 is similar, and reasonable for reliability.

Entry level compound crossbow strings and cables “typically” do not hold up well to long term shooting. If you’re going to zero in ten shots, and not shoot again until you’re on game, they’ll last.

If you are going to shot 100-150 bolts before season, stepping up in the product lines will generally get you a longer run before changing out the cables and string.

I had an entry level Barrett - it was only good for about 50 shots before the servings started coming apart. After the second set of replacements, I sold it for a better solution.

I’m fairly healthy and strong, but the crank is much easier in the stand, and for decocking after the hunt.

Most entry package crossbow scopes are junk, and you’ll be chasing a floating zero, or a reticle aim point that doesn’t match your shooting distance.

I have a custom Koda bow with a xcaliber micro bow. The trigger is a little stiff.

I also have a ravin R 9. It is very nice to shoot, but clumsy to still hunt with.

If you hunt out of a stand I would buy a ravin! And I would look for an older one, I don't think the newer ones are that much better for the price they charge. But I haven't shot many.

^^^^^^^^
This

The raven is extraordinary in its consistent draw and cocking system. Not to mention trigger.

I harvested a dominant buck pre rut at seven yards. And was able to reload while his buddy stood in the alfalfa dumbfounded.

I was only 18 feet above the beast.

But if you are gonna be sneaking around..............the raven will make it a miserable hike, IMO.

I have an Excalibur Bulldog 330. For me it’s not to had to cock. I killed my buck at 20 or so yards. I use shooting stick(bog pod) in the blind. I don’t shoot it free hand to well.

Thanks for all the info. I really have not come up with a hard and fast budget. I generally try to buy around the midpoint or better. I have never had good luck with the budget or entry level products. I don’t like having to upgrade right away.

I have been told that xcalibur is good. I also have heard good things about Tenpoint. Are there any particular models you would recommend? Who has the best crank system or they all about the same? I don’t have to have the absolute fastest speed but I would like to feel good about 50 yard shots. Is this reasonable with practice?

I value quality over price and I like things that last. I won’t be buying a new bow every year so I would like something with fairly new technology. I don’t want to be obsolete right after I buy it.

Again, thanks for helping a newbie!

Dean

I have killed over two dozen deer with an Excalibur. There's things I like and some I do not about the bow. I am shooting over 300 FPS even with heavy arrows and I have had several of the deer manage to jump the string at 20 yards.Never caused a miss, but it even a less good hit can be trouble you don't need.

50 yards shots can be made but Bambi can move an awful lot before the arrow gets there. Don't take them. 20 is much better and fifteen better still. Accuracy is not the issue, it's the time of flight of the arrow. Even with good solid double lung hits, even with shots right through the heart, even with shots that sever the great vessels above the heart laving it loose in the chest, you cannot predict very well how far Bambi may run after the hit. I have had them drop in their tracks after the shot. I had one double lunged that ran for a little over a mile bleeding so well that I could follow it as fast as I can walk and could have followed it at a run could I still run. I had one bleed so heavily that I could see the blood trail almost 100 yards away with a flashlight make it 200 yards. I have one last fall that I took at a steep downward angle that one blade of the four blade head sliced 1/2 inch of the scapula and a couple ribs on the way in but did not make an exit hole. That deer made it fifty yards without bleeding a drop. Then, it tipped over and everything within ten feet was very red.

You don't get to choose what happens after you pull the trigger. All you can hope to do is cut down Bambi's options. The closer you are the better you can visualize the arrow path through Bambi, the less time Bambi has to react, the more power you can apply to the job of driving the arrow all the way through.

Anyone consider the Hickory Creek?
I like the concept, not sure how it would be in real use.
Think it would be much nicer to walk with, and from a treestand,
it would be more maneuverable. From a blind? Maybe not.

This is a sample of one, as I said at the outset. After some months, and the two deer, I noticed my string was getting very close to the bumpers on the limbs. The solution is to put some twists in the string. I already had the stringer required. It took about as long for me to find and watch the video instructions as to actually do it. I hunt about 20 minutes from my home, but imagine how you'd handle a problem with the string or cables if you were using a compound that requires a press and maybe a technician for such work and were hunting out in the sticks someplace. I carry everything needed in my trunk, so a whoopsie can be fixed quickly and I can get back to "work".

The crank for the Matrix line is pricey, and I decided to go without it at first. Didn't take me long to decide to pony up the $230. It's built really well, and makes practice or target shooting a breeze, not a workout. They claim 12lbs of cocking effort. With the rope, my bow takes 130 pounds of awkward-angle tugging to cock. Pretty easy decision for an old fat man to make. Young strong fellers can likely do without, but I hate back pain. Since I also hate lugging a bunch of crap around in the woods, the rope goes in my pack, not the crank, even though I may have to climb out of a tree to use it.

I bought my bow off Amazon. They have good prices, and the dealer upgraded the scope to Excalibur's top model. If it craps, I'll probably get the very nice Hawke. I also am toying with the idea of going with a red dot zeroed at 30 yards to lighten the load and make the package smaller. Although I didn't use it, holders of the Amazon Store Card can buy pricey items with a 12-month, no interest plan.

Kudu3, I shoot an Excalibur Micro. It uses a 16.5 inch bolt. It cocks by hand fairly easy.... If I had to pull three more inches it might make a cocker necessary for me. The excalibers can be un-cocked by hand too, which is another plus.

OP - while I agree that the Excalibur can be uncocked by hand - I’ve done it, it’s not for the older hunter. Good chance to tear or pull something in the shoulders that does heal quickly.

I have the Micro 360 takedown, with the crank. I can cock it with rope, but I’d better stretch first. The crank is expensive - about $200 if you catch a sale. The good - It’s near silent, easy on / easy off, and I can decock with it if I choose. Downside - it’s steel and heavy, but I’ll bet it will outlast me.

Letting loose ~350 pounds of force, regardless of how it’s compounded down, is not a light task, especially in the dark, after a full hunt. 99% of the time, I’ll let the discharge bolt do it’s work.

Two hunters in my area regularly use Hickory Creeks - with ease and good success. Our deer management group lead takes between 4-6 deer a year with his, he’s got major rotator issues, holding compounds at draw are out for him.

The other guy is very elderly with health issues, but gets about one a season with his, but he’s not in the woods as much as he used to be.

From my experience this year, the newer Excalibur Micros are a lot quieter (subjective opinion) than the older Excalibur models. Mine is much quieter than the Carbon Express CX I had.

with the excalibur crank you can uncock it easy I forgot what mod. mine is it shoots 330 fps. with the factory string with the flimish string I get 356\357 fps .6 of us on our lease have not had a deer or hog jump the string. kudu3 pm me if you need more info

It's very easy to decock the Centerpoint Sniper 370 using the cocking rope. There are several videos on youtube showing how to do it. The sniper 370 is very accurate, fast and quiet. I have no trouble repeatedly hitting a 1" bullseye at 40 yards with mine and it chrono's 355 fps with a 20" 420 gr. arrow.

I bought Dinny's Ten Point Titan Extreme a few weeks ago with exactly the same thoughts you expressed. I'm not leaving my compound at home in favor of it but it's good to have a backup. I hurt my shoulder two years ago and that nearly cost me the bow season. Anyway, the crossbow I got is several years old but in greatshape. I had new strings and cables put on it and I'm amazed at the accuracy, even beyond 40 yards. I learned quickly not to shoot too many bolts into the target. You start damaging the them quickly! I bought a middle of the road package, hoping to learn about crossbows and get an insurance policy. I think I've done that. It came with a crank but I prefer a rope cocker. If I have to hunt full time with a crossbow in the future, I'll no doubt move up to one of the high end rocket launchers that have been mentioned but I'm definitely in the game now.

I don't decock mine. I just bring it home and fire a field point into my target. Good way to check the zero too.

That would be illegal here. We have an 18" minimum. No idea what the reason is for that, but gotta deal with it.

I purchased a Horton Utra-Lite Express 8 years ago, this would likely be classified as an entry level bow. It was inexpensive and the fasteners did come loose causing a loss of accuracy. Since locktiting the fasteners the bow has held up very well. I did have the cables changed at year 5. The bow has been shot hundreds of times. I like getting it out when company is here and it seems everyone likes shooting it.

If I were to purchase another I would visit my local Cabelas and shoot everyone they had and then choose. For me, the trigger quality is a big deal and I don't want a heavy bow. I see no reason to dump a couple of grand into a bow. I've shot a buck every year with my "cheapie" bow and 3 of the 8 make B&Y.

I carry my target in the truck and shoot a field tip to decock it.