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What is the best finish remover to strip the finish, on a model 700 Rem. factory walnut stock?
Thanks

Last edited by Displaced_Texan; 06/02/19.
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Scrape it off, it is epoxy. Nothing will dissolve it.

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bfrshooter is correct. I did this a couple times and ended up using scrapers. That darned bowling pin finish is tuff. I won't do it a third time. I will buy a boyds replacement stock.

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What about the finish they use on the CDL stocks? This is not the thick high-gloss BDL finish. Is it epoxy as well? I ask because I often see handsome CLD handles with bubbles/chips in that finish.


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Brownells says this will strip the Rem finish: https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...inish-strippers/certistrip-prod4984.aspx

I have not used it, but I suspect it works as they say.

RAN

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I've used Citristrip stripping gel paint and varnish on several rifles,don't know as I've done a remington though. Stuff works good and smells like oranges. Bought it at Ace.

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Why strip? Repair the damaged areas, use CA Glue to fill in the finish and then create a satin finish by buffing out with rottenstone.


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You might want to try using some of the strippers rated for epoxies and lacquers. Sometimes take a couple applications to get it all off, but worth it.

Usually if there is damage to one of these Remington stocks I just strip it and start over. I always hated the reddish/amber cast of the tinted finish they use and quite often under all that finish is a really nice piece of wood...

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I've used Citristrip gel to take the finish off a couple of walnut 700 Mountain Rifle stocks. It took a couple of applications, particularly in the checkering, but it worked and it doesn't smell bad.

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have a furniture refinishing place strip it for you.


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The older BDL 700's with the "bowling pin finish" on them have a plastic fore-end, most chemical strippers will soften and disfigure the plastic.

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Originally Posted by drover
The older BDL 700's with the "bowling pin finish" on them have a plastic fore-end, most chemical strippers will soften and disfigure the plastic.

drover


Yup, but it is pretty easy to replace a tip and cap...


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Hopefully with something nicer than a chunk of plastic.


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Originally Posted by nighthawk
Hopefully with something nicer than a chunk of plastic.

But it is being slapped in front of???


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Wouldn't care if it's in front of a piece of birch, I've come to hate plastic.


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I can say the Rem finish was tough as all get out. It was so hard it resisted some dents. I hate plastic too.
When a kid with a new Daisy Red Ryder I put insect spray on and my hands melted fingerprints into the plastic. then I bought a 700 with plastic. The stock was spaghetti so I inlayed a 3/8" stainless aircraft hydraulic tube in the forearm. Early plastics really sucked.

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Some people should seek advice, not give it.


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We were taught that the only thing that would remove Remington's Dupont Gloss finish was Permatex Spray gasket remover . I have tried it in the past and it does work good . I don't know if it is still available .

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Originally Posted by GunBuff

We were taught that the only thing that would remove Remington's Dupont Gloss finish was Permatex Spray gasket remover . I have tried it in the past and it does work good . I don't know if it is still available .


Used it in the past, not recently.

This is what's out there now:

https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-removers/permatex-gasket-remover-low-voc-formula/


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I had one that had all kinds of gouges and scratches. Took 0000 steel wool with some car rubbing compound and very gently rubbed off the sheen. Most of the scratches disappeared along the way. Now it is a nice matte finish. Work slowly, check often for your desired sheen. It took probably 30 minutes.

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I have redone several of the Remington stocks. I soak them in lacquer thinner and wipe it off with a shop towel. Then I pull any dents with a wet wash cloth and a hot iron. I go back with a hand rubbed oil finish.

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Originally Posted by RoyalKnight
I have redone several of the Remington stocks. I soak them in lacquer thinner and wipe it off with a shop towel. Then I pull any dents with a wet wash cloth and a hot iron. I go back with a hand rubbed oil finish.


Just curious how long you let the steamed out stock dry before applying finish? WIth my schedule, it is usually a couple weeks before I get back to one, but not sure how long it really needs to dry in your experience... ?

Bob


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This was the high gloss bdl finish. 30 minutes later, it looked a lot like a cdl.

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Wow I never got any alerts or nothing. Sorry. Just let it dry a day or so and if it's a week or month before you get back to it it's alright.

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Thanks for the info here guys. I have a BLR with one ugly scratch on the buttstock. All the rest is as OK as plastic could get. Good luck with your projects and Be Well, Rustyzipper.


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Originally Posted by Sitka deer
Why strip? Repair the damaged areas, use CA Glue to fill in the finish and then create a satin finish by buffing out with rottenstone.


What is CA Glue?


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Cyanocrylate glue. AKA Super Glue for one.


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Originally Posted by nighthawk
Cyanocrylate glue. AKA Super Glue for one.

Exactly... start with medium viscosity and finish with water thin. Usually the water thin will require many layers if you start there.


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Aircraft Stripper. Ace Hardware stocks it.

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Aircraft Stripper works fastest. Ace Hardware stocks it.

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Has anyone had any adverse affects from a stripping product? May be something else but the wood looks duller to me with some. It could be removal of a stain or colored filler but it seems with enough sanding the character of the wood comes back, so something going on at the surface.


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