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Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 37,071
Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 37,071 |
If I had a collector grade, too nice to shoot or if doing so would risk cracking the stock, I’d sell it.
DF I'd just pull the stock and throw it in a Micky or Brown Precision... Very easy to do that. I'd definitely glass bed the aftermarket stock though, as I know you would as well. I’d do that for sure. Save the factory stock. DF
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Joined: May 2005
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Campfire Tracker
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OP
Campfire Tracker
Joined: May 2005
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I know some of you saw my question to JB on the Gunwriters section, but thought I might get some other, knowledgeable advice and comments on this subject here from others that have been down this road, so am repeating the question.
How do you deal with the forend screw on pre-64 M70 standard rifles? Do you tighten them down, leave them loose? Any advice?
As a lot of you already know, I've got a pre-64 M70 rifle in .264 Win Mag that was passed down to me by my father, all original, for which I'm trying to find an accurate load. I don't want to bed the rifle (to keep it original), but figured with a new scope, checking mounting screws, new bullets, and careful reloading, I should be able to do better than 1.5-2" group at 100 yards. The forend screw is the one wildcard that I don't have any experience to draw on. I'd appreciate any insight you could provide on this.
I'm starting new with this rifle since my Dad gave it to me. He bought it new and I still have some of his reloads as well as some original yellow box Winchester factory loads. It has an obviously old, original Redfield 2-7x scope on it that is a little dim. I really didn't want to change things on it and keep it original, the way he had it, but I've been disappointed in the accuracy so far. I've shot his reloads as well as some of the factory ammo with similar results. I thought that perhaps the old bullets he had that he gave me might not be as well balanced as those available today, so that is why I wanted to try the new bullets.
Feel free to offer your opinions on where to start and how to proceed!
Has anything been done to the stock to alter it from original condition? Thus taking away some of its collector value? If its had a recoil pad installed, or the stock has been refinished, or even if it is cracked through the trigger mortise, I'd glass bed it and freefloat the barrel and epoxy in a dummy screw. I've done this many times and the rifles shoot phenomenally well with this treatment. If it is 100% original, I probably wouldn't touch the stock. Many times, the pre's shoot very well with a small amount of tension on the forend screw, when they are in stock form. No mods to the bedding.... BSA, there has been nothing done to alter the stock from it's original condition. The entire rifle is completely "stock" as it came from the factory, other than the addition of scope mounts/scope and leather sling. That is why I prefer not to do anything to the stock. If after my experiments on getting it to shoot accurately in stock form I still cannot get "acceptable" accuracy, then I might consider getting a McMillan stock for it and going that route. However, for my purposes, 1.5-2" accuracy is probably plenty for what I would do with this rifle in the field. Like most here, I think, I like to shoot tiny groups on paper so I can make myself feel good about my rifles "superior" performance, but I am a realist and have too many other rifles to play with that are probably better set up to shoot tiny groups.
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Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,179
Campfire Regular
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Campfire Regular
Joined: Feb 2013
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I'd bet with some load workup, you'll find a load that will work just fine for you.
Phil
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 320
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 320 |
Although he used primarily featherweight barrels jack O’Connor advised to experiment with how much snugness each particular rifle liked. I believe he said most liked fully snug then backed off half turn but to be sure to try varying snugness.
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 48,014
Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 48,014 |
I know some of you saw my question to JB on the Gunwriters section, but thought I might get some other, knowledgeable advice and comments on this subject here from others that have been down this road, so am repeating the question.
How do you deal with the forend screw on pre-64 M70 standard rifles? Do you tighten them down, leave them loose? Any advice?
As a lot of you already know, I've got a pre-64 M70 rifle in .264 Win Mag that was passed down to me by my father, all original, for which I'm trying to find an accurate load. I don't want to bed the rifle (to keep it original), but figured with a new scope, checking mounting screws, new bullets, and careful reloading, I should be able to do better than 1.5-2" group at 100 yards. The forend screw is the one wildcard that I don't have any experience to draw on. I'd appreciate any insight you could provide on this.
I'm starting new with this rifle since my Dad gave it to me. He bought it new and I still have some of his reloads as well as some original yellow box Winchester factory loads. It has an obviously old, original Redfield 2-7x scope on it that is a little dim. I really didn't want to change things on it and keep it original, the way he had it, but I've been disappointed in the accuracy so far. I've shot his reloads as well as some of the factory ammo with similar results. I thought that perhaps the old bullets he had that he gave me might not be as well balanced as those available today, so that is why I wanted to try the new bullets.
Feel free to offer your opinions on where to start and how to proceed!
Has anything been done to the stock to alter it from original condition? Thus taking away some of its collector value? If its had a recoil pad installed, or the stock has been refinished, or even if it is cracked through the trigger mortise, I'd glass bed it and freefloat the barrel and epoxy in a dummy screw. I've done this many times and the rifles shoot phenomenally well with this treatment. If it is 100% original, I probably wouldn't touch the stock. Many times, the pre's shoot very well with a small amount of tension on the forend screw, when they are in stock form. No mods to the bedding.... BSA, there has been nothing done to alter the stock from it's original condition. The entire rifle is completely "stock" as it came from the factory, other than the addition of scope mounts/scope and leather sling. That is why I prefer not to do anything to the stock. If after my experiments on getting it to shoot accurately in stock form I still cannot get "acceptable" accuracy, then I might consider getting a McMillan stock for it and going that route. However, for my purposes, 1.5-2" accuracy is probably plenty for what I would do with this rifle in the field. Like most here, I think, I like to shoot tiny groups on paper so I can make myself feel good about my rifles "superior" performance, but I am a realist and have too many other rifles to play with that are probably better set up to shoot tiny groups. If you are going to hunt and use the rifle, I'd highly suggest looking into a Mcmillan. Then you don't even have to worry about the forend screw. Delete it and glass bed the action and freefloat the barrel. You'll most likely have a tack driver, if the throat isn't toast....
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style. You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole. BSA MAGA
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 3,428
Campfire Tracker
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OP
Campfire Tracker
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 3,428 |
BSA, I'm with you on the McMillan stock and bet you are correct about it being a tack driver once mounted and free-floated. However, here are the things that rattle around in my head. First, this rifle has been hunted quite a bit and while I wouldn't say the stock is in terrible shape, it has enough scars on it to not make me worry about inflicting additional damage. I tend to take care of my rifles, so any new dings that it might acquire should be very minor. The second thing is that my Dad carried this rifle a lot and killed quite a few deer and elk with it. Therefore, I'd like to do the same with the rifle in the same condition, i.e the same walnut stock.
I did just put that Burris scope on it and it kind of pained me to take that old Redfield off of it, just for nostalgia sake. So...you see where I'm coming from on this, right?
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Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 15,297
Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 15,297 |
I’d hunt it. Maybe bed it up real nice and lightly tq that friend screw and have at it. I think you’ll probably see it be consistent and plenty accurate for killing things just like your father did.
Semper Fi
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,935
Campfire Regular
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Campfire Regular
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,935 |
BSA, I'm with you on the McMillan stock and bet you are correct about it being a tack driver once mounted and free-floated. However, here are the things that rattle around in my head. First, this rifle has been hunted quite a bit and while I wouldn't say the stock is in terrible shape, it has enough scars on it to not make me worry about inflicting additional damage. I tend to take care of my rifles, so any new dings that it might acquire should be very minor. The second thing is that my Dad carried this rifle a lot and killed quite a few deer and elk with it. Therefore, I'd like to do the same with the rifle in the same condition, i.e the same walnut stock.
I did just put that Burris scope on it and it kind of pained me to take that old Redfield off of it, just for nostalgia sake. So...you see where I'm coming from on this, right? Makes all the sense in the world to me. I happen to like my Pre '64 M70 rifles in "correct" stocks, though I will sometimes change to a different "correct" stock to obtain a Monte Carlo comb or find one previously cut for a pad. But that's just me, and I have other choices for conditions that merit a more "durable", weatherproof rifle. Those who want to put theirs in 'glass to build a hunting rifle: more power to them. People are free to do as they please with their property. I do hate to see irreversible alterations of "correct" rifles (unless the barrel is toast), and I hate to see guns parted out. But, again, free country and all that.
Last edited by GunDoc7; 06/06/19.
Clinging to guns & religion since 1959
Keyboards make people braver than alcohol
Election Integrity is more important than Election Convenience
Washington Post: "Democracy Dies in Darkness"
More correct: "Killing Democracy Faster Than Darkness"
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 3,428
Campfire Tracker
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OP
Campfire Tracker
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
That. 100%.
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,935
Campfire Regular
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Campfire Regular
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,935 |
^^^^^^^^
But for some reason, updating the scope on a heirloom rifle doesn't bother me much. I cannot say why that is. How we feel about things is not always logical.
It might bother me more to change the sights entirely, as in go from iron sights to a scope.
That said, I took the Weaver side mount and Weaver K4 off my late father's M94 and shoot it with receiver sights now. Much of that has to do with how I feel about scopes on lever guns, especially lever guns with hammers. And that side mount was yet another thing . . .
Again, how we feel about things is not always logical, . . . although I do think some of my thinking about scopes/lever guns is pretty logical.
Clinging to guns & religion since 1959
Keyboards make people braver than alcohol
Election Integrity is more important than Election Convenience
Washington Post: "Democracy Dies in Darkness"
More correct: "Killing Democracy Faster Than Darkness"
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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 17,789
Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 17,789 |
Bought my first pre'64 M/70 in 1975 and have owned dozens in the years since, I only just snug the forend screw and my 70's have always shot well without additional attention to said screw. Never torqued the action screws either, just tightened the front and rear and just snugged the middle screw. Never glassed nor pillar bedded or otherwise altered the factory inletting and my rifles always shot well even when swapping stocks to get one with a Monte Carlo or a pad.
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